Napping

Romy155

New Member
I know that a lot of people have posted this before but my Cham seems to be sleeping for short periods of times during the day. I’ll see her sleeping in one spot and 1 and the her sleeping on the other side of her cage at 1:30 . Ect. She would usually accept food from my hand but now she’s extremely cagey and scared, she has eaten one or twice every day by hunting the crickets I release in her cage. She doesn’t show any other signs of stress , I that I see anyway. Please help
 

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Hi and welcome. :) I’m afraid that any time a chameleon has its eyes closed during the day is not a good sign and means something serious is wrong with its health. We’d be more than happy to help figure out what and correct it so that your beautiful young one has a long healthy and happy life. If you could start with providing some pics of your entire enclosure, including lights…also pics of the supplements you are using and how often for each.
 
Hi and welcome. :) I’m afraid that any time a chameleon has its eyes closed during the day is not a good sign and means something serious is wrong with its health. We’d be more than happy to help figure out what and correct it so that your beautiful young one has a long healthy and happy life. If you could start with providing some pics of your entire enclosure, including lights…also pics of the supplements you are using and how often for each.
 

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I'll defer any diagnosing and cage critique to others, but can you take some pictures of your chameleon without disturbing her too much? Full body, eyes, and legs and anything that looks off.
 
I can offer some help here.

How often do you give her the calcium supplement? Do you use any other supplements?

It looks like you may have the "Chameleon Kit", is this correct?

What temps do you keep your girl at? In the picture you posted of her I can see a temp reader saying 66 degrees f.
 
I did start out with the kit but I have changed all the plants are I also bought a humidifier but it broke. I usually keep her at 72-75 F , I was going to bed so I turned my heat down. I always tried to sprinkle calcium every cricket I gave her, so 3-4. Times a day
 
Understood. Unfortunately there really isn't anything besides the probe thermometer to use for your basking spot that is good in the chameleon kit....

Lets start with the really important stuff to change for your baby girl.

1. UVB - She needs a T5 HO UVB - you will need to get either an Arcadia 6% or a ReptiSun 5.0 light to go in the hood. Make sure you get a 36 inch hood and light. I use this one here. The UVB light you will need is this one here. You will want her basking branch to be about 6 inches away from the UVB hood and next to her heat lamp. That way she can warm up and get UVB at the same time. You will also want a branch in your enclosure to run parallel with the UVB light as well so your baby can choose what temp she is happy at while still getting UVB.

2. Supplements - You are doing great in giving her calcium, make sure you dust that on every feeder for every feeding. Your girl also needs multivitamins and D3 added to her diet. I use the Repashy LoD, which is a multivitamin and D3 supplement powder all in one. Dust this on your feeders on the 1st and the 15th of each month. You can buy this here.

3. Temperature and humidity is super important with these guys. Your girl needs a basking temp at 80 degrees F, just long enough for her to warm up in the morning (think of it like how humans need a cup of coffee to wake up in the mornings ;) ). My girls basking light is only on for 30 minutes for example. Baby's ambient temps in her enclosure should be 78 degrees at the top of her enclosure to 72 degrees near the bottom. Attach that probe thermometer on her basking branch so that you know what the temp is. At night you want a temp drop of at least 68 degrees, if you can go colder then great! You'll need something to read the other temps and humidity levels in the enclosure. I really like the Govee brand for a temp/humidity reader, its accurate and hooks to your phone. This one might do well for you here. I have this one here which connects via bluetooth and wifi so I know my girl's temps at all times.

4. Plants & Branches - Chameleons are arboreal creatures and spend their whole lives living in the trees. In nature the only times you find them on the ground is when they are looking for a mate or just lost a territory battle to another chameleon. Your girl needs a lot of branches for her to move around in her enclsoure. Gather what you can outside, be sure not to use any branches from pine trees, sap producing trees, or any trees with a strong smell to them. Scrub the branches in your bathtub with hot water and soap and rinse rinse rinse! Let them dry in the sun. You can attach them with zip ties that you melt the ends with a lighter to avoid sharp edges. Next are plants. Chameleons need a lot of plants in their enclosure to feel secure. A good rule of thumb is if you walk in the room and can immediately spot your chameleon, you don't have enough plants in your enclosure. Especially because you have a veiled chameleon you will want to make sure that all plants in her enclosure are real and are safe for her. Veiled chameleons have a tendency to eat the plants in their enclosures and fake plants will cause impaction which is fatal. You can get plants at Walmart or Home Depot. Wash them in your sink with soap and water to remove any pesticides, and repot them in organic soil.

5. Hydration - Want your humidity levels at 40-50% during the day, at night you want it to go up to 80-100%. Chameleons get their hydration in nature by the high humidity levels, if your fog machine is not working then I would consider replacing it. I have this one here and it works quite well. You'll want to make sure you are misting in the morning before lights come on so she has drinking opportunities when she wakes up, and again at night when lights turn off. Let me know when you get the fog machine and we can make other adjustments, and make sure to not fog if temps at night are above 68 degrees. Next a dripper, I just used an old plastic water bottle with a hole poked in bottom for a dripper. You'll want to fill this once a day to give her another drinking opportunity in case she needs it.

Lets get those things going for your baby girl and then once these things are done we can move on to the next set of things we can do to help your girl out.

For further information regarding veiled chameleon care, check out this here.

I've attached a photo of my enclosures to give you a visual of what you are wanting for coverage for your girl. I've also included a list of safe plants.

Let me know if you have any questions!
 

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Hi again. Unfortunately, there’s really very little to the Zoo Med chameleon kit that is adequate and useful and too often we see the sad results of people being misled by it and all of the misinformation out there on chameleon care. :( I don’t know if you’ve yet found Neptune the Chameleon on YouTube and other platforms, but she has excellent information on correct care and has partnered with Pangea Reptile to create a fantastic chameleon kit at a reasonable price. https://www.pangeareptile.com/colle...tarter-chameleon-kit-by-neptune-the-chameleon There is a basic kit and an advanced one that I believe contains a Mist King system and fogger. Another excellent source of current and correct information is https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/ which has a comprehensive husbandry program that I highly recommend you read.
Back to your little cutie thought takes us to the problems with the chameleon kit. One of the biggest problems is the uvb light is not adequate and provides no uvb any farther than 2-3” below. The screw in uvb bulbs just don’t work for our needs. The standard is a linear T5HO with either ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%. It needs to be long enough to span the width of your enclosure, or at least 24” long. Another problem with the kit (although not a serious one for young chameleons) is it is much too small for an adult chameleon and will need to be upgraded to at least a 2x2x4’ enclosure.
Then we need to talk about supplements. You should be lightly dusting every feeding with calcium without D3. I believe this is what you have and it’s perfect. Then for one feeding every other week you need to be dusting with either Repashy Calcium Plus LoD or Reptivite with D3. Both of these are combination multivitamins and D3 and the easiest way to provide both of these needed supplements. It’s very important to make sure that your feeders are the correct size. Anything larger than the space between the eyes is too big. It’s better to get smaller feeders than risk ones too big. Your little girl looks a bit thin and I suspect she hasn’t been eating as much as she should be. She does look to be maybe around 3 months old so she should be eating at least around 20 feeders daily. Since she’s thin, let her eat as much as she can in a 15-20 minute period. You could even feed her twice a day for maybe a week or so until she perks up and fills out a little.
From your thermometer reading of 69.9, that is too cool for her. She needs a basking temp of 78-80, but no higher.
Do keep an eye on your humidity too. Ideal daytime range is between 30-50%.
Although it may seem not as important, having more branches and vines will help reduce her stress and help her recover better. It is a challenge to attach things to screen, but there are ways. For when you get the larger enclosure, I suggest Dragon Ledges. https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/ For now though, you can attach sticks vertically to the corners of the frame and then attach horizontal sticks to create a scaffold type support which you can attach more branches and vines to. Another way is to use garden trellis, also attached to the frame. I have done both and have a couple of pics to demonstrate. She will also need only safe live plants. Veileds and especially the ladies love eating their plants. It only takes one nibble of a fake leaf to cause a bowel obstruction.
Lastly (for now) I would strongly advise to get a fecal check for parasites.
I would think that once you get the correct uvb, temps, supplements and feeding amounts your little one should improve. It is a challenge with little ones though, but we are here to help.
 

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Hi again. Unfortunately, there’s really very little to the Zoo Med chameleon kit that is adequate and useful and too often we see the sad results of people being misled by it and all of the misinformation out there on chameleon care. :( I don’t know if you’ve yet found Neptune the Chameleon on YouTube and other platforms, but she has excellent information on correct care and has partnered with Pangea Reptile to create a fantastic chameleon kit at a reasonable price. https://www.pangeareptile.com/colle...tarter-chameleon-kit-by-neptune-the-chameleon There is a basic kit and an advanced one that I believe contains a Mist King system and fogger. Another excellent source of current and correct information is https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/ which has a comprehensive husbandry program that I highly recommend you read.
Back to your little cutie thought takes us to the problems with the chameleon kit. One of the biggest problems is the uvb light is not adequate and provides no uvb any farther than 2-3” below. The screw in uvb bulbs just don’t work for our needs. The standard is a linear T5HO with either ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%. It needs to be long enough to span the width of your enclosure, or at least 24” long. Another problem with the kit (although not a serious one for young chameleons) is it is much too small for an adult chameleon and will need to be upgraded to at least a 2x2x4’ enclosure.
Then we need to talk about supplements. You should be lightly dusting every feeding with calcium without D3. I believe this is what you have and it’s perfect. Then for one feeding every other week you need to be dusting with either Repashy Calcium Plus LoD or Reptivite with D3. Both of these are combination multivitamins and D3 and the easiest way to provide both of these needed supplements. It’s very important to make sure that your feeders are the correct size. Anything larger than the space between the eyes is too big. It’s better to get smaller feeders than risk ones too big. Your little girl looks a bit thin and I suspect she hasn’t been eating as much as she should be. She does look to be maybe around 3 months old so she should be eating at least around 20 feeders daily. Since she’s thin, let her eat as much as she can in a 15-20 minute period. You could even feed her twice a day for maybe a week or so until she perks up and fills out a little.
From your thermometer reading of 69.9, that is too cool for her. She needs a basking temp of 78-80, but no higher.
Do keep an eye on your humidity too. Ideal daytime range is between 30-50%.
Although it may seem not as important, having more branches and vines will help reduce her stress and help her recover better. It is a challenge to attach things to screen, but there are ways. For when you get the larger enclosure, I suggest Dragon Ledges. https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/ For now though, you can attach sticks vertically to the corners of the frame and then attach horizontal sticks to create a scaffold type support which you can attach more branches and vines to. Another way is to use garden trellis, also attached to the frame. I have done both and have a couple of pics to demonstrate. She will also need only safe live plants. Veileds and especially the ladies love eating their plants. It only takes one nibble of a fake leaf to cause a bowel obstruction.
Lastly (for now) I would strongly advise to get a fecal check for parasites.
I would think that once you get the correct uvb, temps, supplements and feeding amounts your little one should improve. It is a challenge with little ones though, but we are here to help.
We must have been typing at the same time :)
 
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