Also used the exact same bulb out of the other fixture which it looked like near nothing came out. In the deep dome it pushes a strong white heat light. Basking a little lower since the branches were moved but she seems to love it. Let’s hope our vet visit says it’s just that and not anything serious.
The bulb is a 10.0 UVB I don’t know where to find the info on it I took the bulb out to check I thought it was a 5.0. Should I place it higher above the cage?
It’s essential for placement to know if it’s a T5 or T8 fixture as they are very different. It should say on the end of the uvb bulb which it is. Another way to tell is a T8 is a 1 inch wide bulb, while a T5 is a 1/2”. I’m still a bit confused about your Reptivite and calcium with D3. Can you post some pics of all of the supplements that you are using. Very often, the biggest things that cause our sweet chameleons to become ill is our errors, and even small ones that seem insignificant can have a tremendous impact.
I already posted pictures of the supplements, it is calcium without d3 at every feeding and reptivite calcium with d3 and vitamins twice a month. By the look of the bulb it’s a 1 inch wide I’ll take it out again once her lights are out they go out in 30 minutes. I do feed hornworms as treats occasionally and Dubai roaches as treats as well. She does get a variety. I was gutloading my crickets with carrots and collard greens I have since gave them majority collard greens and little carrots.I will be buying more fruits and veggies to fix the gutloading but suplliments and feeders aren’t the problem I don’t think but we will all find out from the vet tomorrow
Ok…I’m not seeing any pics of supplements. Maybe it’s the way you’re wording it that has me befuddled. The ReptiVite is a multivitamin and not a calcium. It comes in two version - one with D3 and one without. So, when you say
that sounds like two separate products. I know it’s seems picayune, but vitamin D3 and proformed A are fat soluble and can build up to dangerous levels before you know it and can cause problems such as what you are seeing. It’s often the little things that matter. Same as with the type of uvb - T5 or T8. If you are using a 10.0 uvb bulb with a T5 that has been 4-8” away, she has been getting baked with uvb. If it is a 5.0 bulb with a T8 at the same distance, she may not be getting enough uvb. For her age, while the difference between her being 4 months old vs 6 months old may not seem like much, it really is. Not only are the younger chameleons much more fragile and less tolerant of any error at all, but they also need to be eating at least 15+ feeders of appropriate size daily. If she thinks the feeder is too big for her, she won’t eat it. So, she may be underfed and it’s catching up with her now. I didn’t even initially catch these things, which is why it’s so good to have other eyes and voices pitching in to help. There’s so much to learn with chameleons and it’s not always easy to even know what is the right info and what is wrong. We mostly go by the guidelines and standards of Chameleon Academy as simply put, it is the absolute best from the absolute best. https://chameleonacademy.com/
here is another picture to reference, the reptivite does contain vitamins with d3 and calcium. Also he is about to shed
I hate to tell you this but sun through glass does not work for uvb only heat. The glass totally cuts the uvb. It is a young female and the patterns you are seeing are a stress reaction. Having other animals near her is going to cause unneeded stress. She is going to view them as a threat. Her body language is also showing this. Hunching down close to your hand is fear not comfort for them.
