Help gravid female

[ERKleRose]

The zoo med is 5.0 and is recommended for chameleons going to 10.0 is not

I never said 10.0

Also literally said I shut it all of at night for the drop

Sorry, usually if people have basking bulbs, they usually have the ceramic heat emitter at night

 

[Ambichameleous]

Look I’m sorry but I assure you I’ve delved into a lot of research , and work with one of the few vets willing to handle exotics if you have serious input I’m willing to listen but if you want to be rude and instill hype for no reason I’ll take down the post don’t worry

 

[ERKleRose]

I recommend reading this https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/panther/ along with egg laying, breeding, and raising young articles and threads

 

[ERKleRose]

Look I’m sorry but I assure you I’ve delved into a lot of research , and work with one of the few vets willing to handle exotics if you have serious input I’m willing to listen but if you want to be rude and instill hype for no reason I’ll take down the post don’t worry

I gave you serious input

 

[Ambichameleous]

No you really didn’t you just argued without even reading anything and then tried to tell me I’m in the wrong with what medical expertise ?

 

[ERKleRose]

Edit; basking spot should actually be closer to 82-83*F

 

[ERKleRose]

Please fill out the form with as much detail as possible. She needs a minimum sized cage of 18” by 18” by 36” tall, but preferably 2’ by 2’ by 4’ tall or bigger. Are the gauges analogue or digital? Get rid of the blue basking bulb and get a regular white light heat incandescent bulb from the hardware store (cheaper and lasts longer than a white light reptile basking bulb). Get rid of the ceramic heat emitter, chams need a temp drop at night. Get rid of the compact coil uvb and get either a t5HO or T8 linear uvb fixture and bulb (Arcadia 6% or Zoo Med 5.0). Basking should be 85*F. She needs Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3 every feeding and Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 every two weeks. Or use an all in one supplement every feeding, like Sticky Tongue Farms Minerall Indoor-gutload Feeders the night before with Sticky Tongue Farms Vitall. How often do you mist and for how long? Why would you buy a pregnant female for your first cham? @Matt Vanilla Gorilla

Here’s the form, please fill out every question!
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

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Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

She also needs way more branches, vines, and plant cover everywhere throughout her cage

There’s input, if you read the caresheet, it’d be backed up by it

 

[ERKleRose]

I recommend reading this https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/panther/ along with egg laying, breeding, and raising young articles and threads

 

[Ambichameleous]

no if you read any article it will tell you top of cage 90 bottom 70

 

[ERKleRose]

no if you read any article it will tell you top of cage 90 bottom 70

Did you read the female part?

 

[ERKleRose]

Here:
Also, a male’s temperature at his basking spot is optimal between 85-87*F

 

[Ambichameleous]

You mean where people recommend less feeding and a lower ambient temperature to reduce the possibility of producing eggs?!

 

[ERKleRose]

Bill Stand and Petr Necas’ panther chameleon caresheet is also very informative. It’s on the Chameleon Enthusiasts FaceBook page, give me a second, and I’ll link it

 

[Ambichameleous]

You mean where people recommend less feeding and a lower ambient temperature to reduce the possibility of producing eggs?!

Also should have said 90* not 95

 

[ERKleRose]

You mean where people recommend less feeding and a lower ambient temperature to reduce the possibility of producing eggs?!

that’s to produce less eggs so it’s less taxing on the female

 

[Ambichameleous]

But for you to go into specifics when I gave a roundabout number that is CLEARLY in the appropriate zone

 

[ERKleRose]

https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/Pa...z1TLXVb173qirHCyt8XEds6y9mpuP3yg_o5M6xHxedUyg

 

[Ambichameleous]

also I’m curious what medical professional said that altering an animals natural chemistry by force is “less taxing”

 

[ERKleRose]

also I’m curious what medical professional said that altering an animals natural chemistry by force is “less taxing”

Laying less eggs is obviously less taxing because it doesn’t take up as much calcium or strength to lay

 

[Ambichameleous]

I’m sorry but I’ve read several articles regarding that the life expectancy of females is all over the place because of it, and the more recent f-8s and so on that everyone gets are much hardier then the predecessors and perpetuating the hype of being egg bound isn’t as common as the internet makes it seem but wouldn’t a lower temperature and her producing less eggs be a sign that she’s not healthy ?