Gravid Veiled Chameleon may be having trouble laying her eggs

Brittneylc1981

New Member
We have a 7 foot screened enclosure. The temperature is at 80 and humidity is around 60 to 64. We have a 6 to 8 inch opaque lay bin prepared. Substrates are 50 play sand and 50 perlite (vermiculite). We covered her entire enclosure with a sheet for privacy. She has been eating normally. Her crickets and cockroaches are calcified. The lay bin is 2 ft x 1 ft big.

She has been going down to the bottom exploring. We noticed one possible test hole. Being serious first time chameleon owners we are concerned. We wouldnt want to lose our baby Mazzy to being egg bound. I can attach some more pictures once we get home. But I appreciate any helpful advice.
 
We have a 7 foot screened enclosure. The temperature is at 80 and humidity is around 60 to 64. We have a 6 to 8 inch opaque lay bin prepared. Substrates are 50 play sand and 50 perlite (vermiculite). We covered her entire enclosure with a sheet for privacy. She has been eating normally. Her crickets and cockroaches are calcified. The lay bin is 2 ft x 1 ft big.

She has been going down to the bottom exploring. We noticed one possible test hole. Being serious first time chameleon owners we are concerned. We wouldnt want to lose our baby Mazzy to being egg bound. I can attach some more pictures once we get home. But I appreciate any helpful advice.
Sounds good. If Mazzy is exploring the laying bin she is probably close to laying. Keep your eyes on Mazzy for signs she has laid her clutch of eggs..

Best Regards
Jeremy A. Rich
 
Is it also easy for her to get into a leave the laying bin?
It's helpful to have some sort of branches so she can sort of pathfind to and out of it.
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Yes she is my first chameleon. She let me touch her stomach softly i didn't feel anything but she looks in detress. Here are some pictures.
 

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The laying bin appears to check out...
She does look fairly gravid.

Not sure if this could be related, but do you have a linear t5HO UVB bulb? The coil UVB bulbs often sold in these double light fixtures are largely ineffective for chameleons in captivity, and I just want you to know that. The reptisun 5.0 or arcadia 6% are the only thing to give chameleons sufficient UVB exposure.
 
When did she show for the first time restless behavior? My first guess is she is in her receptive phase at the moment and is still developing eggs. The second restless period is mostly the one she's looking for place to lay her eggs.

Agree with @LizardLurkin and wanted to ask the same. And what's in the small enclosure?
 
I have to double check the bulb with the man. But it is a 75 watt just cause her enclosure is 7 foot tall.

We watched YouTube videos and read the forum so we would know what to expect. But her colors have changed. Her patterns are beautifully different and show more than ever. We noticed her going down to the very bottom of her enclosure looking around. Her belly appeared big. And our male; who is now on the otherside of the room, has been stalking her cage. But last night she did sleep on the bottom of her cage (unusual) clinging on to the screen.
 
When did she show for the first time restless behavior? My first guess is she is in her receptive phase at the moment and is still developing eggs. The second restless period is mostly the one she's looking for place to lay her eggs.

Agree with @LizardLurkin and wanted to ask the same. And what's in the small enclosure?
The small enclosure is my daughter's chameleon.
 
Hope your chameleon isn’t eggbound. Part of what can push them to egg binding is overfeeding as they approach sexual maturity and temperatures that are too hot. Can you give us information on how much you’re feeding her and the temperature she is kept at?

The substrate in your lay bin looks very dry…too dry to hold a tunnel, I think. In addition to that, perlite and vermiculite should not be used in the substrate IMHO…for many years I used a washed plays and produced by King’s. It has never caused any issues when the females try to eat it or get it in their eyes, etc when digging.

(Vermiculite and perlite can be used in the egg bin.)

Also, what is the chameleon in the smaller cage? What sex is it? What age is it? Is there anything between the cages to prevent the chameleons from seeing each other?

If you don’t have a long linear uvb light (Arcadia 6 or Reptisun 5) on both of the cages, then you need to get one for each cage. @Beman can give you good information about the uvb lighting.

Adding…
Just saw some of your other posts and I see you also have a male. Can the male and female see each other? Are they in the same room?
 
Hope your chameleon isn’t eggbound. Part of what can push them to egg binding is overfeeding as they approach sexual maturity and temperatures that are too hot. Can you give us information on how much you’re feeding her and the temperature she is kept at?

The substrate in your lay bin looks very dry…too dry to hold a tunnel, I think. In addition to that, perlite and vermiculite should not be used in the substrate IMHO…for many years I used a washed plays and produced by King’s. It has never caused any issues when the females try to eat it or get it in their eyes, etc when digging.

(Vermiculite and perlite can be used in the egg bin.)

Also, what is the chameleon in the smaller cage? What sex is it? What age is it? Is there anything between the cages to prevent the chameleons from seeing each other?

If you don’t have a long linear uvb light (Arcadia 6 or Reptisun 5) on both of the cages, then you need to get one for each cage. @Beman can give you good information about the uvb lighting.

Adding…
Just saw some of your other posts and I see you also have a male. Can the male and female see each other? Are they in the same room?
 
Nooo. The chameleon in the smaller cage isba 2 month old female. We completely covered her cage
Hope your chameleon isn’t eggbound. Part of what can push them to egg binding is overfeeding as they approach sexual maturity and temperatures that are too hot. Can you give us information on how much you’re feeding her and the temperature she is kept at?

The substrate in your lay bin looks very dry…too dry to hold a tunnel, I think. In addition to that, perlite and vermiculite should not be used in the substrate IMHO…for many years I used a washed plays and produced by King’s. It has never caused any issues when the females try to eat it or get it in their eyes, etc when digging.

(Vermiculite and perlite can be used in the egg bin.)

Also, what is the chameleon in the smaller cage? What sex is it? What age is it? Is there anything between the cages to prevent the chameleons from seeing each other?

If you don’t have a long linear uvb light (Arcadia 6 or Reptisun 5) on both of the cages, then you need to get one for each cage. @Beman can give you good information about the uvb lighting.

Adding…
Just saw some of your other posts and I see you also have a male. Can the male and female see each other? Are they in the same room?
We feed her in the morning. 3 large calcified crickets. And 3 in the evening. The temperature is 80 and humidity at 60.

Substrate 50 play sand. 50 perlite. I put some more water in there again and mixed it. Felt good enough to hold a tunnel.

The chameleon is about 2 to 3 months. She is a female. I attached a picture showing the covering of her enclosure. Our gravid female.

The light bulb is reptisun. 75 watts just cause her cage is 7 feet tall.

He is a male chameleon. We moved him across my room. About a good 10 feet away from her.

Thank you for your help it is much appreciated. 😊 I dont want to lose my beautiful Mazzy. Thank you so much for the information. I will double check everything.
 

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