Gravid Veiled Chameleon may be having trouble laying her eggs

Yes we have the herpavite and another calcium supplement without D3. I attached a picture of the light bulbs we been using. We been buying and buying bulbs at 20 to 30 dollars each until we got the right one.
Ok so herptavite is one of the ones that is miss leading. It does not have vitamin A or D3.

Take pics so I can just double check your calcium without D3.

These are the best supplements in my opinion. They do not overly coat and they are a really great quality product.

This one is the multivitamin you use it two times a month. Get the 3 oz jar you wont need a larger one. You want to replace your supplements yearly so write the date you opened it on it. Repashy calcium plus LoD

Then buy this one for a plain calcium without D3. Repashy Supercal NoD


And these are my favorite bulbs in a 4 pack for 26 bucks. exo terra Daytime heat

If you have the boxes of the other bulbs return what you can, if you got it from amazon, petco, petsmart. It is very easy to waste money in this hobby when you have so many incorrect sites telling you to buy the wrong stuff.
 
Hard to say for me. I might expect to see some teal and brighter mustards or oranges for being receptive, and darker everything for being gravid. She may be in between.
@Brittneylc1981 what color were your girls when you first got them? Were they pretty much a soli green or did they already have some defined markings/colors?
They were like a light limeish green color. Solid. Her patterns are really coming out like we never seen before. But the freckled/spots recently came out. Her face and casque is different too. More patterns coming out w her spots. Sometimes she does turn teal. But she is a pretty teal/green when I was tending to her awhile ago.
 
Enlarged a picture. These beautiful markings on her face
1000011249.jpg
 
Ok so herptavite is one of the ones that is miss leading. It does not have vitamin A or D3.

Take pics so I can just double check your calcium without D3.

These are the best supplements in my opinion. They do not overly coat and they are a really great quality product.

This one is the multivitamin you use it two times a month. Get the 3 oz jar you wont need a larger one. You want to replace your supplements yearly so write the date you opened it on it. Repashy calcium plus LoD

Then buy this one for a plain calcium without D3. Repashy Supercal NoD


And these are my favorite bulbs in a 4 pack for 26 bucks. exo terra Daytime heat

If you have the boxes of the other bulbs return what you can, if you got it from amazon, petco, petsmart. It is very easy to waste money in this hobby when you have so many incorrect sites telling you to buy the wrong stuff.
 

Attachments

  • 20250701_182406.jpg
    20250701_182406.jpg
    124.6 KB · Views: 2
I use reptical myself and notice it often overcoats
I had the same issue. It’s very fine and sticky. I hated wasting it, but there was no way I could use even the smaller container of it before it expired. I switched to Repashy Supercal noD and it’s soooo much better. Even with that if I’m not careful, some feeders get over-coated and I just blow it off them.
They were like a light limeish green color. Solid. Her patterns are really coming out like we never seen before. But the freckled/spots recently came out. Her face and casque is different too. More patterns coming out w her spots. Sometimes she does turn teal. But she is a pretty teal/green when I was tending to her awhile ago.
Ok, so she’s just coming into her big girl colors then. Usually accompanying them is a period of restlessness - constant patrols up, down and all around the enclosure, on the hunt for a cute boy to make eggs with. That can last a week or more. Then anytime from a few weeks after she can be ready to lay her eggs. All the info is in my blog. I learned from the very best keepers who are here, and who helped guide me.
 
I had the same issue. It’s very fine and sticky. I hated wasting it, but there was no way I could use even the smaller container of it before it expired. I switched to Repashy Supercal noD and it’s soooo much better. Even with that if I’m not careful, some feeders get over-coated and I just blow it off them.

Ok, so she’s just coming into her big girl colors then. Usually accompanying them is a period of restlessness - constant patrols up, down and all around the enclosure, on the hunt for a cute boy to make eggs with. That can last a week or more. Then anytime from a few weeks after she can be ready to lay her eggs. All the info is in my blog. I learned from the very best keepers who are here, and who helped guide me.
The Repashy supplement also has a faintly pleasant smell. Like...You crushed up a bunch of chalk, but also a few berries too.
 
Repti calcium at every meal and reptivite twice a month would be good. I would forego herptivite going forward. (y)

Oh! I use reptical myself and notice it often overcoats and I have to wipe away excess with a damp paper towel. You will want your insects coated, but not appearing like powdered donuts. Just a thought!
Okay yeah we dont do the donut. I assumed it would be too dry for them to take down. Thank you I will follow these instructions.
 
I had the same issue. It’s very fine and sticky. I hated wasting it, but there was no way I could use even the smaller container of it before it expired. I switched to Repashy Supercal noD and it’s soooo much better. Even with that if I’m not careful, some feeders get over-coated and I just blow it off them.

Ok, so she’s just coming into her big girl colors then. Usually accompanying them is a period of restlessness - constant patrols up, down and all around the enclosure, on the hunt for a cute boy to make eggs with. That can last a week or more. Then anytime from a few weeks after she can be ready to lay her eggs. All the info is in my blog. I learned from the very best keepers who are here, and who helped guide me.
I noticed her little belly. Shes going up and down her enclosure. Um she hisses at our male so we moved him away from her. I dont want to mate Mazzy or Miwa. So I will do the diet to reduce egg production. I dont want their little bodies going through that. I will go to you blog. Thank you Miss Skittles.
 
I had the same issue. It’s very fine and sticky. I hated wasting it, but there was no way I could use even the smaller container of it before it expired. I switched to Repashy Supercal noD and it’s soooo much better. Even with that if I’m not careful, some feeders get over-coated and I just blow it off them.

Ok, so she’s just coming into her big girl colors then. Usually accompanying them is a period of restlessness - constant patrols up, down and all around the enclosure, on the hunt for a cute boy to make eggs with. That can last a week or more. Then anytime from a few weeks after she can be ready to lay her eggs. All the info is in my blog. I learned from the very best keepers who are here, and who helped guide me.

The laying bin appears to check out...
She does look fairly gravid.

Not sure if this could be related, but do you have a linear t5HO UVB bulb? The coil UVB bulbs often sold in these double light fixtures are largely ineffective for chameleons in captivity, and I just want you to know that. The reptisun 5.0 or arcadia 6% are the only thing to give chameleons sufficient UVB exposure.
We dont use the coil. It came in the dual lighting (UVB and heat bulb), but we used our other bulbs. They dont have Arcadia at petco (I can order) but they have reptisun at PETCO. But we are going to get the linesr lighting. We just built the enclosures recently and putting in a better watering system. She did dig a little test hole this morning and is going up and down her enclosure alot now. Which is a big relief for me. Thank you for your help.
 
Ok so the 50 watts should be ok and are low enough wattage to not be too hot. Watch them though flat based basking bulbs can produce a hotter basking spot rather than warming an area like a plain white 60 watt household incandescent bulb. The 100 watt is way too strong for a cham. High risk for thermal burns with that one.

Ceramic heat emitter otherwise known as a CHI bulb. Not useful for chams. They move towards the light. These can only be useful if your household temps drop below 55 at night and you need an area of warmth. Otherwise they should not be used.

All of these are UVA bulbs so none of these are a UVB emitting bulb.

Ok so the 50 watts should be ok and are low enough wattage to not be too hot. Watch them though flat based basking bulbs can produce a hotter basking spot rather than warming an area like a plain white 60 watt household incandescent bulb. The 100 watt is way too strong for a cham. High risk for thermal burns with that one.

Ceramic heat emitter otherwise known as a CHI bulb. Not useful for chams. They move towards the light. These can only be useful if your household temps drop below 55 at night and you need an area of warmth. Otherwise they should not be used.

All of these are UVA bulbs so none of these are a UVB emitting bulb.
Okay we are going to get the linear. We recently finished their 7 foot enclosures and the new watering/misting system in their enclosures. But that is definitely our next buy. The linear lighting. Okay I did throw some boxes away but thank you for telling me about the flat based bulbs. Will chg this out. I apologize for the frustration. Was alot of information about the lighting.
 
Okay we are going to get the linear. We recently finished their 7 foot enclosures and the new watering/misting system in their enclosures. But that is definitely our next buy. The linear lighting. Okay I did throw some boxes away but thank you for telling me about the flat based bulbs. Will chg this out. I apologize for the frustration. Was alot of information about the lighting.
No worries, just know your going to get real and correct help here. That is why those of us that have been here a very long time stay. To help new keepers like you have successful experiences. :)
 
You said…”I noticed her little belly. Shes going up and down her enclosure. Um she hisses at our male so we moved him away from her. I dont want to mate Mazzy or Miwa. So I will do the diet to reduce egg production.”…doing the diet but still having the male closeby or within her sight may not work to reduce the clutch size. I can’t be sure…I don’t have a study to cite about it. It’s just my suspicion.
 
You said…”I noticed her little belly. Shes going up and down her enclosure. Um she hisses at our male so we moved him away from her. I dont want to mate Mazzy or Miwa. So I will do the diet to reduce egg production.”…doing the diet but still having the male closeby or within her sight may not work to reduce the clutch size. I can’t be sure…I don’t have a study to cite about it. It’s just my suspicion.
I posted a recent picture I took awhile ago of her belly. The male is across the other room. We like them in our room. She did dig a hole recently. Her enclosure is fully covered with a sheet.
 
In this thread…
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/can-males-and-females-sense-each-other.48654/
The owner of Melleri Discovery,which no longer seems to be on line said…"Melleri use infrasonic (as in elephants, okapi, and whales) communication, so the deep sounds of your vocalization, your heartbeat, even thunderstorms sound like loud, threatening gibberish to a melleri. You can reduce your “frightening” factor by being quiet"….
It’s been proven that veileds also use infrasonic sounds to communicate…so even if the cages are not close to each other they may know the other one is there…so they may not be far enough apart.
 
Back
Top Bottom