My cham has spent his past few hours in one high corner of the viv

Lichisor

Member
Hi, my male 2 month old veiled chameleon has had a bit of weird behavior today. He shed his skin a couple days ago ( for the second time since we have had him) and this morning he seemed oddly pale. His colors looked faded and his usually white spots were dark brownish. Now he is staying in one tall corner of the vivarium and looking like he is trying to escape. Temperatures are normal, 70 and above in lower areas and 90s in the basking spot, humidity is between 40 and 60. He ate lots this morning (we fed him crickets, he ate about 8 at the very least, which is quite unusual as he generally likes eating no more than 5-6 a day. What could be the explanation for his behavior? Attached are his setup and his current position in the viv. 20190823_202039_HDR.jpg
 

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That's pretty small of a viv and I also believe that your male is a female. If that is glass -- what are they holding on to there? Maybe they cannot get down. I would highly suggest letting some experienced keepers here go over your husbandry. What part of the world do you live in?

If you'd like to go over the finer details of your care you can fill out this form below -- I also would really suggest posting a photo of the back foot of the chameleon, that way we can be sure it is a male. If it is a female you will need to read up on egg laying and laybins.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
That's pretty small of a viv and I also believe that your male is a female. If that is glass -- what are they holding on to there? Maybe they cannot get down. I would highly suggest letting some experienced keepers here go over your husbandry. What part of the world do you live in?

If you'd like to go over the finer details of your care you can fill out this form below -- I also would really suggest posting a photo of the back foot of the chameleon, that way we can be sure it is a male. If it is a female you will need to read up on egg laying and laybins.
Hi,

I am 100% sure it's a male, his spurs are clearly visible.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled (Yemen) Male Chameleon, two months old. I've had it for 1 month
  • Handling - He is rather friendly, likes coming out of the terrarium once every couple days
  • Feeding - crickets and locusts, alternatively. As many as he wants generally
  • Supplements - We were advised to dust crickets daily with nutrobal calcium and multivitamin powder
  • Watering - We usually mist the terrarium three times a day. We do it until there is plenty of water dripping from leaves for him to drink. For at least a minute.
  • Fecal Description - Darkish brown, normal consistency, has not been tested for parasytes.
  • History - None that we know of..

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - 61hx61wx45d (centimetres) glass (exoterra)
  • Lighting - basking - 45w ; -uv - ExoTerra UVB 200; The cage is lit from 8AM to 8 PM
  • Temperature - The basking spot reaches 90 F , lower areas reach 80 F. The lowest temp overnight is 75 F
  • Humidity - We have been advised to mist the terrarium regularly, so we do it 3 times a day. Humidity is regularly between 40 and 60
  • Plants - No live plants
  • Placement - It's by a window, about 1.5m from the floor level.
  • Location - United Kingdom
 
I would really suggest a larger cage so you can get more a temperature / UV gradient and so the lowest area can get cooler. Can I see the spurs? I'd like to get better at sexing yemens -- that casque / body pattern looks female to me.

Larger is always better with cham enclosures -- that one looks very small to me. I don't use glass but know some UK keepers do. I also would not dust with multi-vitamins at every feeding. Phosphoros free calcium at every feeding, calcium with D3 once every other week and multivitamin once every other week. Some keepers swap out all these supplements for Repashy Calcium Plus LoD.

I'd venture to guess the answer to your main question is that the chameleon is not able to hide in their enclosure. I would put more branches, vines, -- going sideways across the enclosure -- and much more foliage. Rule of thumb is it should take you a minute to see your chameleon when you glance into the cage. Having more adequate hiding places for your chameleon will make them feel more secure.
 
I would really suggest a larger cage so you can get more a temperature / UV gradient and so the lowest area can get cooler. Can I see the spurs? I'd like to get better at sexing yemens -- that casque / body pattern looks female to me.

Larger is always better with cham enclosures -- that one looks very small to me. I don't use glass but know some UK keepers do. I also would not dust with multi-vitamins at every feeding. Phosphoros free calcium at every feeding, calcium with D3 once every other week and multivitamin once every other week. Some keepers swap out all these supplements for Repashy Calcium Plus LoD.

I'd venture to guess the answer to your main question is that the chameleon is not able to hide in their enclosure. I would put more branches, vines, -- going sideways across the enclosure -- and much more foliage. Rule of thumb is it should take you a minute to see your chameleon when you glance into the cage. Having more adequate hiding places for your chameleon will make them feel more secure.

I can't take pictures now as he's sleeping, but I will if I remember it in the morning. I was told that the size is great, especially for now as he's quite small (my phone camera has this weird wide angle effect that makes things look disproportionate, but the tank is really big) Also, he has his favorite hiding spots around the cage so when he's up for hiding, he can become invisible to me regarding foliage and branches, I'm clueless as to how I should be putting branches anywhere else. Do you have any good videos or links about putting foliage in?
 
IMHO it's a misconception/money grab scheme from enclosure producers that you need to start in a small cage and upgrade. They want your money so they'll want you to buy two cages. A large cage is fine from the get go unless your hatching babies.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/thr...d-2-post-your-pics.94781/page-32#post-1509029

Take a peek at that thread and get some inspiration for vines / branches / foliage.
 
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I can't take pictures now as he's sleeping, but I will if I remember it in the morning. I was told that the size is great, especially for now as he's quite small (my phone camera has this weird wide angle effect that makes things look disproportionate, but the tank is really big) Also, he has his favorite hiding spots around the cage so when he's up for hiding, he can become invisible to me regarding foliage and branches, I'm clueless as to how I should be putting branches anywhere else. Do you have any good videos or links about putting foliage in?


I use a screen mesh cage with "dragon ledges" which make it very easy to run things horizontally. I'll post a pic of my enclosure -- I am actively trying to add more foliage / hiding places -- even mine seems sparse to me to be honest.
244021
 
I use a screen mesh cage with "dragon ledges" which make it very easy to run things horizontally. I'll post a pic of my enclosure -- I am actively trying to add more foliage / hiding places -- even mine seems sparse to me to be honest. View attachment 244021

I should also note -- my basking branch is slightly higher than the recommended 7 inches -- that's because I keep my house icy cold and in order to get a good temp it needed to be slightly higher.
 
Looks female to me as well. The cage is much to small for her and way too hot. The humidity is too high as well. SHe should be between 30-40% during the day. She is at risk for a respiratory infection with it being so hot and humid.

If you are open to me reviewing your help form I am happy to give feedback on it specifically. Please let me know.
 
Looks female to me as well. The cage is much to small for her and way too hot. The humidity is too high as well. SHe should be between 30-40% during the day. She is at risk for a respiratory infection with it being so hot and humid.

If you are open to me reviewing your help form I am happy to give feedback on it specifically. Please let me know.

I just want him to be better, I'm happy with any feedback. Thing is, the forum says humidity should be 30-40, internet says 40-60 and the pet shop says 70. I don't even know what to think anymore. Also I found a good pic of him sitting on my girlfriend's face (he apparently likes that a lot) and you can see his spur in the back leg. received_1296513297174780.jpeg
 
I just want him to be better, I'm happy with any feedback. Thing is, the forum says humidity should be 30-40, internet says 40-60 and the pet shop says 70. I don't even know what to think anymore. Also I found a good pic of him sitting on my girlfriend's face (he apparently likes that a lot) and you can see his spur in the back leg. View attachment 244028
Yeah looks male with the spur... So if you want direct real info I am happy to give it. But some people do not want to listen so I just wanted to make sure you are open before I give feedback lol.
 
I just want him to be better, I'm happy with any feedback. Thing is, the forum says humidity should be 30-40, internet says 40-60 and the pet shop says 70. I don't even know what to think anymore. Also I found a good pic of him sitting on my girlfriend's face (he apparently likes that a lot) and you can see his spur in the back leg. View attachment 244028
Temp Range varies by Each individual Chameleon.. Those are mostly just a range of where to be.
 
@Lichisor Ok so I am going to go through everything and give you feedback in red bold. Let me know what you have questions on.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Veiled (Yemen) Male Chameleon, two months old. I've had it for 1 month
  • Handling - He is rather friendly, likes coming out of the terrarium once every couple days Typically this is a response to their environment not being adequate. Sometimes it means they are comfortable with you but 95% it is an issue of them not being happy in their home.
  • Feeding - crickets and locusts, alternatively. As many as he wants generally Good this will need to be adjusted as he ages.. See caresheet link below.
  • Supplements - We were advised to dust crickets daily with nutrobal calcium and multivitamin powder Can you please take pics of your supplements for me? These are two that I am not familiar with and I want to make sure there is not an overdose risk with what you are using.
  • Watering - We usually mist the terrarium three times a day. We do it until there is plenty of water dripping from leaves for him to drink. For at least a minute. I am going to give you a link to naturalistic hydration. This is a combo of misting, fogging, and dripping water. It is more natural for them and healthier.
  • Fecal Description - Darkish brown, normal consistency, has not been tested for parasytes. Please find a vet to get a fecal tested. This is important as parasites can rear their ugly head out of no where. Some are not as harmful as others but they should be treated.
  • History - None that we know of..

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - 61hx61wx45d (centimetres) glass (exoterra) Too small. I would switch to a screen enclosure you are needing something that is 2x2x4 at least for a male.. He will need every bit of space. Also you want this up on a table. You want his basking area to sit higher then you are standing. Makes them feel more secure.
  • Lighting - basking - 45w ; -uv - ExoTerra UVB 200; The cage is lit from 8AM to 8 PM. Ok the UVB bulb is a screw in bulb right? If so this will do him no good at all. You will need to get a T5HO linear fixture with a 6% Arcadia UVB bulb or at 5.0 zoo med UVB bulb these need to be replaced every 9-12 months. You want the basking area to sit 7-8 inches directly below the the UVB. Without the proper UVB lighting he will develop MBD. The 45 watt does not surprise me that this is heating that exo. The glass is going to lock in heat... So typically we do not recommend any exo glass set ups for newer keepers because of heat and humidity control issues. 12 hour lights on and off is perfection.
  • Temperature - The basking spot reaches 90 F , lower areas reach 80 F. The lowest temp overnight is 75 F. Basking is too hot for his age. Needs to be more like 85 max. Lower areas are too warm as well. This is where a screen cage would be better for him. They need to be able to get down out of the heat to regulate their temps. They also need a cool down at night. They can handle a temp drop down to 50 degrees. Screen will allow for this where the glass is going to lock in the heat.
  • Humidity - We have been advised to mist the terrarium regularly, so we do it 3 times a day. Humidity is regularly between 40 and 60 Listen to the podcast. I have my misting session in the morning prior to my basking light kicking on and evening after it has kicked off. You will find everyone has their own way with this because where you live, the enclosure, the species... all of these things impact what your levels are.
  • Plants - No live plants. Live plants are important. Not only do they stabilize your humidity they provide hiding places for your cham. Pothos and dwarf umbrella plants are great options. Cover the soil with 1 inch or larger river rock so he does not eat the dirt.
  • Placement - It's by a window, about 1.5m from the floor level.
  • Location - United Kingdom
Ok great podcast and all of his are wonderful... https://www.chameleonbreeder.com/podcast/ep-89-naturalistic-hydration-for-chameleons/

Care sheet for your boy... Things like temps and food intake will change as he ages. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

Here are some bonus images. Ask questions... We want to see you have a fantastic experience as a new Keeper. :)

chameleon-food(1).jpg
chameleon-gutload.jpg
 
I just want him to be better, I'm happy with any feedback. Thing is, the forum says humidity should be 30-40, internet says 40-60 and the pet shop says 70. I don't even know what to think anymore. Also I found a good pic of him sitting on my girlfriend's face (he apparently likes that a lot) and you can see his spur in the back leg. View attachment 244028


I've mentioned this in another thread but I've seen lady yemens with baby sploot spurs. I'm still going female but I also could be very very wrong! Glad Beman could guide you you're in great hands with her!
 
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