Spiny Dino help!!!

joshuadh2310

joshuadh2310

Established Member
ok guys so I am going to be getting in a Furcifer verrucosus within a day or two and he is in bad shape I guess and is dehydrated really bad and won't eat I have a free range setup for him and am wanting to know the best way to go about this. I'm scared he won't make it so should I try and get him eating and hydrated before the vet or vet first? Any and all info on this would be greatly appreciated as I have never rescued a Cham before.
 
IMG_0736.PNG
This Is a pic of the guy I'm working with!
 
Makes me wanna cry. call the vet get him in asap till then get him eating and drinking. A good why to hydrate is putting him in the shower with warm water with shower head at wall so it's just misting him
I'm so surprised he is alive beast of luck to you guys I'm following for updates
 
Eating doesn't matter as much before vet as hydration does. Definitely focus on getting him stable with hydration before hand. He will need showers the first day you get him from the looks of him and I wouldn't go less than 30 minutes each time if you can help it. If you can get longer do so. Do a shower at least once a day. Twice a day if he will let you. Do you know his care at all from his home right now? Like is there any possibility something has cause an RI? If not he may need to get wormed especially since he is likely wild caught and has a parasite load that has grown too large for him to control. Ask the current carer, that you are getting him from, what he has done and anything he may have noticed. Usually warm showers are the best way to get furcifers of any type to drink. Make sure it stays warm while he is in it. I set a time to check every 5-8 minutes. Vet should be done once he looks a little more plump and is drinking rather well. If he starts eating while under critical care that is great, but don't try for the next two days I would think. Even if he starts to spiral down... in my opinion taking him to the vet without getting him somewhat hydrated before hand could be a death sentence because of the amount of stress. Though there are definitely situations and things a vet could do that would help. But I have had plenty rescues I have taken in who were critical that they gave fluids to and that was it and they died a could minutes later just from the stress. I have since started keeping saline in the house. I can usually give a small amount to the chameleons by myself, as is with my other animals, except the birds, won't touch the birds. Usually doing it at home, could very well likely push them over the edge as well, but I also have had greater success with it. I don't recommend this for someone who has just started rescue care. I think he will do rather well after several showers through out the first week, and if you have any soft bodied feeders (hornworms are the best but silkworms are great too). These can help with hydration once he's towards the point of eating. Good Luck hun, rescuing can be a thankless task in some ways. You can spend hundred to thousands of dollars on an animal who gets to a healthy life and then only dies a year or two later from the import process or something else that happened in previous care. But if you are willing to try and definitely willing to spend money to at least get him checked out and helped where you can, you can do a lot to change this little guys life around. Kudos to the person who is giving him to you because he obviously just needs someone a bit more experienced. If he doesn't show interest in eating or shows issues with having enough energy and possible deficiencies I have give a liquid diet (which helps a lot with hydration as well) that I end up blending bugs and putting vitamins in, with a few healthy veggies and fruits. If you want to know my exact method shoot me a pm. It's a bit different than some of the other bug juices I have come across.

I would say if you can get a vet visit either next week or the week after that would be great. Get it a little bit out. Work on getting him hydrated for the next week until then. And then maybe start trying to get him to eat. For the liquid diet it would be best if you have 1 cc oral syringes. So you might want to either order some online or get some if you know somewhere local just in case this becomes a necessity and you have it on hand! You have some odds stacked against you two, but if any animal can get through a hard time it's chameleons. It can take them months to a year to show good improvement. But they can pull out of situations that is just amazing.
 
Andee said:
Eating doesn't matter as much before vet as hydration does. Definitely focus on getting him stable with hydration before hand. He will need showers the first day you get him from the looks of him and I wouldn't go less than 30 minutes each time if you can help it. If you can get longer do so. Do a shower at least once a day. Twice a day if he will let you. Do you know his care at all from his home right now? Like is there any possibility something has cause an RI? If not he may need to get wormed especially since he is likely wild caught and has a parasite load that has grown too large for him to control. Ask the current carer, that you are getting him from, what he has done and anything he may have noticed. Usually warm showers are the best way to get furcifers of any type to drink. Make sure it stays warm while he is in it. I set a time to check every 5-8 minutes. Vet should be done once he looks a little more plump and is drinking rather well. If he starts eating while under critical care that is great, but don't try for the next two days I would think. Even if he starts to spiral down... in my opinion taking him to the vet without getting him somewhat hydrated before hand could be a death sentence because of the amount of stress. Though there are definitely situations and things a vet could do that would help. But I have had plenty rescues I have taken in who were critical that they gave fluids to and that was it and they died a could minutes later just from the stress. I have since started keeping saline in the house. I can usually give a small amount to the chameleons by myself, as is with my other animals, except the birds, won't touch the birds. Usually doing it at home, could very well likely push them over the edge as well, but I also have had greater success with it. I don't recommend this for someone who has just started rescue care. I think he will do rather well after several showers through out the first week, and if you have any soft bodied feeders (hornworms are the best but silkworms are great too). These can help with hydration once he's towards the point of eating. Good Luck hun, rescuing can be a thankless task in some ways. You can spend hundred to thousands of dollars on an animal who gets to a healthy life and then only dies a year or two later from the import process or something else that happened in previous care. But if you are willing to try and definitely willing to spend money to at least get him checked out and helped where you can, you can do a lot to change this little guys life around. Kudos to the person who is giving him to you because he obviously just needs someone a bit more experienced. If he doesn't show interest in eating or shows issues with having enough energy and possible deficiencies I have give a liquid diet (which helps a lot with hydration as well) that I end up blending bugs and putting vitamins in, with a few healthy veggies and fruits. If you want to know my exact method shoot me a pm. It's a bit different than some of the other bug juices I have come across.

I would say if you can get a vet visit either next week or the week after that would be great. Get it a little bit out. Work on getting him hydrated for the next week until then. And then maybe start trying to get him to eat. For the liquid diet it would be best if you have 1 cc oral syringes. So you might want to either order some online or get some if you know somewhere local just in case this becomes a necessity and you have it on hand! You have some odds stacked against you two, but if any animal can get through a hard time it's chameleons. It can take them months to a year to show good improvement. But they can pull out of situations that is just amazing.
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Thank you guys very much I will get him in the shower as soon as I get him that's my main goal is to get him well hydrated . The guy said he haven't eatin since he got him about 2 weeks ago so I was wondering about him having some parasites that might make him just not want to do anything . I do actually have .01 cc syringes that I had for my girl. I have a free range setup for him but I'm sure he won't move around much so should I just place him under the heat lamp wich is another question im going to get the lights tomorrow should I just get a mercury vapor for it since it would be harder to get him uvb and heat across a free range especially since he doesn't look to be moving much? And I know hydration first but I do have hornworms and silkworms on deck while he is in the shower should I see if he wants any food? I also have dubias and blah blah blah but yeah.
 
I would likely shower him for at least 2 days because he won't want food unless he's well hydrated. If he is showing hunting behaviors before then, go ahead and offer them, but don't push it. Since you have the syringes you might want to look into getting some flavorless pedialyte. Usually I do the liquid diet for electrolytes but if he's as dehydrated as he looks you might not want to put actual food in his system until he is more hydrated. But sometimes some watered down pedialyte... I think most people do about 50/50 is great for getting their energy levels bumped up. You would have to give him to it orally and as you probably know don't give him more than .5 cc at a time just so his system can adjust, and always put the tip of the syringe in the very back of the mouth/beginning of throat. As far as trying to feed in the shower. I definitely wouldn't do it the first, shower and I would try to leave him alone as much as possible in the shower so just kind of check on him every 5 minutes, as long as he shows the ability to support himself. I notice when I leave my chams alone in the shower they are more likely to drink. Other than that... it's just kinda seeing how things play out. If he has the correct warning signs for parasite over load I would get him stable as soon as possible and then get him wormed. A lot of the time worming can cause serious problems if your cham isn't stable. @jajeanpierre might have some better info on how to deal with a high parasite load on a wild caught who may need to get wormed because it's causing issues. She usually doesn't worm her imports immediately but I think when they are doing badly because of it she and her vet have worked out a system that has a better result?
 
agree,, get him rehydrated,,spray him using bottle sprays..lets hope he drinks too... those Eyes are damn sunken to the bone..:eek:
 
Andee said:
I would likely shower him for at least 2 days because he won't want food unless he's well hydrated. If he is showing hunting behaviors before then, go ahead and offer them, but don't push it. Since you have the syringes you might want to look into getting some flavorless pedialyte. Usually I do the liquid diet for electrolytes but if he's as dehydrated as he looks you might not want to put actual food in his system until he is more hydrated. But sometimes some watered down pedialyte... I think most people do about 50/50 is great for getting their energy levels bumped up. You would have to give him to it orally and as you probably know don't give him more than .5 cc at a time just so his system can adjust, and always put the tip of the syringe in the very back of the mouth/beginning of throat. As far as trying to feed in the shower. I definitely wouldn't do it the first, shower and I would try to leave him alone as much as possible in the shower so just kind of check on him every 5 minutes, as long as he shows the ability to support himself. I notice when I leave my chams alone in the shower they are more likely to drink. Other than that... it's just kinda seeing how things play out. If he has the correct warning signs for parasite over load I would get him stable as soon as possible and then get him wormed. A lot of the time worming can cause serious problems if your cham isn't stable. @jajeanpierre might have some better info on how to deal with a high parasite load on a wild caught who may need to get wormed because it's causing issues. She usually doesn't worm her imports immediately but I think when they are doing badly because of it she and her vet have worked out a system that has a better result?
Click to expand...
Okay I will let him be in the shower if he makes it to me. And if I do by chance get a poop sample I will try and take it to the vet and see what's up with that if need be before I take him to the vet. Really hope he makes it I would love to have this little guy. I will keep everyone updated and feel free to chim in on anything if anyone wants to
 
xrowdac said:
agree,, get him rehydrated,,spray him using bottle sprays..lets hope he drinks too... those Eyes are damn sunken to the bone..:eek:
Click to expand...
I know right. He was drinking before as I understand so I wonder why all of a sudden he stoped drinking and caring
 
That sounds a lot like he got sick somehow I would assume it would either be a RI, or the parasites. So yes if you get lucky and get some feces, take it in. I will be watching this thread like a hawk. If you make a new one regarding him, tag me in it.
 
I will most certainly tag you in all the important things. I think he does have a parasite as most do and he has not been taking to the vet. But I wondering about the RI . He was in a all screen cage before so he got good air flow from what I understand what else can cause it? I got a description and tried asking as much as possible to figure out what is was but you are more experienced than me
 
A lot of things can cause RI. Like too much fogging sessions happening if he was being kept with a fogger. If his cage wasn't drying out well between mistings. If his temps were too low. If he inhaled water or liquids somehow. Usually if that happens its a LRI (Which are a pain in the butt to deal with). Sometimes the simplest thing as a stressed out system and not having the best enviroment can cause RI. They can cause lethargy, a lack of appetite, and no desire to drink. Taking him in a shower, and closing the door so it will steam up is usually a great way to help combat breathing issues with any RI. If he opens his mouth a lot, and there is discolored, excessive saliva that is definitely a huge sign. Popping sounds when breathing. General labored breaths. These are all signs of a RI of some sort. If he has an RI I would definitely hydrate him but get him in as soon as possible. The issue with RIs is they are impossible to combat without antibiotics etc. on your own. Getting some meds if he has an RI would be great and then you could do daily shower sessions to help him breathe.

This is all of course if he shows the signs. Otherwise it could be a nasty parasitic issue. Or both >.< it's a lot of work, but if he pulls through you will have an amazing bond with him in the end, you have no idea.
 
Andee said:
A lot of things can cause RI. Like too much fogging sessions happening if he was being kept with a fogger. If his cage wasn't drying out well between mistings. If his temps were too low. If he inhaled water or liquids somehow. Usually if that happens its a LRI (Which are a pain in the butt to deal with). Sometimes the simplest thing as a stressed out system and not having the best enviroment can cause RI. They can cause lethargy, a lack of appetite, and no desire to drink. Taking him in a shower, and closing the door so it will steam up is usually a great way to help combat breathing issues with any RI. If he opens his mouth a lot, and there is discolored, excessive saliva that is definitely a huge sign. Popping sounds when breathing. General labored breaths. These are all signs of a RI of some sort. If he has an RI I would definitely hydrate him but get him in as soon as possible. The issue with RIs is they are impossible to combat without antibiotics etc. on your own. Getting some meds if he has an RI would be great and then you could do daily shower sessions to help him breathe.

This is all of course if he shows the signs. Otherwise it could be a nasty parasitic issue. Or both >.< it's a lot of work, but if he pulls through you will have an amazing bond with him in the end, you have no idea.
Click to expand...
Okay so I should start with showering and closing the door to let it fog up?
 
No I usually close the door anyway, fogs in showers are usually good for chams anyway. If you have a fan or a window you can open the window a crack or turn the fan on for a short amount of time half way through. It will help with airation. But what the shower will be like is a fogging session and misting session all at once but in a more rain like way. My chameleons love it once they get used to their first few showers. Always make it as bright as possible for your cham so they don't randomly fall asleep and lose the benefits.
 
OK cool. I left a message on the other thread. I'm in NYC and would be happy to go over and take a look. I don't know if I could help but I am happy to try to help. Unfortunately, I not available until tomorrow (although I could do something during the day today just not this evening). If he's not already on his way, you guys can PM me anytime.
 
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