converting a repti breeze x-large to a hybrid design

[Wain7906]

Predrilled a hole and then used 1/4 inch self tapping screws.

Good morning,

I have the XL reptibreeze and just purchased 2 pvc boards i wanna replace for the side and back. I read you used 1/4 self tapping screws is it just that size in the screws used or another length to the 1/4”. Also i take it that i would need to remove the spline for the sides being removed just wondering how to screw the panels to the cage frame. Hope this all made sense.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

Good morning,

I have the XL reptibreeze and just purchased 2 pvc boards i wanna replace for the side and back. I read you used 1/4 self tapping screws is it just that size in the screws used or another length to the 1/4”. Also i take it that i would need to remove the spline for the sides being removed just wondering how to screw the panels to the cage frame. Hope this all made sense.

Depending on what tools are at your disposal and your skill with them...

If you're modifying the Reptibreeze into a hybrid, I think you'll have to replace both sides along with the back, and do something about the front as well (acrylic or window insulation) except for a small intake at/near the bottom of the front/door.

You can attach the PVC panels in (at least) a couple of ways—inside or outside of the screen. Removing the screen is optional, but the panels will still have to be attached to either the inside or outside of the remaining frame, and cut to appropriate size to do whichever.

Length of screws will depend partly on the thickness of the PVC panels. Personally, I would use stainless steel sheet metal screws as long as the thickness of the material plus 1/8" to 1/4" long—enough to get past the taper of the point of the screw for holding.

You'll also need to decide on the type of screw head (pan head, countersunk, hex head) and whether you want to add washers for added strength so they won't poke/pull through the PVC. Some screws come with integral rubber washers to help seal against leaks; they'll cost a bit more.

The PVC could also be attached without screws by applying a thin bead of silicone and clamping/pressing the PVC to the frame. PVC will have to be cut large enough, and clamped, or disassemble the enclosure so you can work flat and press with a rigid cover sheet (e.g. plywood) and weights. You might apply silicone anyway to seal against leaks, so it'd be killing two stones with one bird.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

Removing the screen is optional, but the panels will still have to be attached to either the inside or outside of the remaining frame, and cut to appropriate size to do whichever.

....

The PVC could also be attached without screws by applying a thin bead of silicone and clamping/pressing the PVC to the frame. PVC will have to be cut large enough, and clamped, or disassemble the enclosure so you can work flat and press with a rigid cover sheet (e.g. plywood) and weights. You might apply silicone anyway to seal against leaks, so it'd be killing two stones with one bird.

Just a thought... Since writing the above, it occurred to me that if the screen were removed, the groove that the spline was in could be used to hold a bead of silicone. It would have to be filled just enough that a little squishes out to cement the PVC to the frame.

I've never tried this personally, but I think it would work.

 

[AmandaS]

Good morning,

I have the XL reptibreeze and just purchased 2 pvc boards i wanna replace for the side and back. I read you used 1/4 self tapping screws is it just that size in the screws used or another length to the 1/4”. Also i take it that i would need to remove the spline for the sides being removed just wondering how to screw the panels to the cage frame. Hope this all made sense.

@Beman would love to explain this in great detail!! She's awesome.

 

[Beman]

So yes... I have modified a screen enclosure with solid panels @Wain7906 You want 1/8 inch PVC board and 1/4 inch stainless steel self tapping screws. You can do regular 1/4 inch stainless steel screws as well. This is the length of the screw. Any longer and depending on the cage brand you could go through the other side of the frame which you do not want. I pulled the screen out by removing the spline. All my PVC was placed on the outside. Inside gets more difficult depending on your cage and if you want to easily remove your bottom panel. Anyways I used a much smaller drill bit to predrill my holes on the frame of the cage and through the PVC. This is important because you do not want to bend your panels trying to get the screw to go all the way through. So a hole that the tip of the screw sits into but does not go all the way into without screwing it in. Make sure you avoid the areas of your cage where there is already a screw to put the cage together. I did my sides first then put the back panel on. Screws were placed about every 6 inches along the frame.

 

[reddog]

With help from @Beman last summer, I converted the doors on my DS large hybrid atrium to clearside using 20 ga marine vinyl. Service door and top panel are still screen providing for chimney effect. It has worked very well in helping keep nighttime humidity high with fogging and it is a much better viewing experience than screen doors. I don't have waterspots using RO water and with misting heads aimed correctly.

 

[Beman]

With help from @Beman last summer, I converted the doors on my DS large hybrid atrium to clearside using 20 ga marine vinyl. Service door and top panel are still screen providing for chimney effect. It has worked very well in helping keep nighttime humidity high with fogging and it is a much better viewing experience than screen doors. I don't have waterspots using RO water and with misting heads aimed correctly.

Happy it is still working well for you.

 

[7UP]

Thanks to all for the great ideas