Chameleon constipation?

So my chameleon has stopped pooping everyday, like he use to. He is about 4/5 months old and takes his supplemental calcium without D3 every day. Also eats a mix of Dubai/cricket and superworms. Last time he pooped was last week about 4 or 5 days ago and it looked healthy. Very large, but healthy. No other issues seem to be showing other than him being stressed from me trying to hand feed him, and noticing my dog behind his cage. Lights are normal, linear UVB lights at 10.0 and a basking light that gets up to 95 degrees when close to it. Anyone else experience this? Here is a recent pic!
 

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There wasnt any weird stuff. It was normal, the largest one yet. Now that i think about, i have added this to cricket gutloading-handling. Would this cause a stop up? Needing a dry formula for crickets to go with fresh veggies that stink up the place
 

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There wasnt any weird stuff. It was normal, the largest one yet. Now that i think about, i have added this to cricket gutloading-handling. Would this cause a stop up? Needing a dry formula for crickets to go with fresh veggies that stink up the place
I don't know about the bites, but the cricket cubes by Flukers are generally not very well liked, you should gutload with greens and fruits, and I heard Cricket Crack is very good, but I haven't tried it.
 
I don't know about the bites, but the cricket cubes by Flukers are generally not very well liked, you should gutload with greens and fruits, and I heard Cricket Crack is very good, but I haven't tried it.


Those cubes are for water! Couldnt find anything else for water!
 
He pooped yall!! And now he is shedding! Look at the glorious poop!!
 

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Questions answered. Tried to be as detailed as possible. That why it took me so long:

Your Chameleon - Male panther, been in my care for 2.5 months. I believe him to be 4-5 months old.

Handling - Only twice after bring him home in a cloth bag.

Feeding- Crickets 7-9 daily medium sized. Last week it was 3-4 large due to not finding any in area at the time. Every morning at 7 am, crickets are dusted and put in a little cup, along with a superworm or dubai roach for variety. By noon they are all gone and eaten. Gutloading has been with orange cubes, which after buying i read they are not liked, but still use them to get rid of them while putting in fresh spring mix lettuce, potatoes, brocoli, apples, kale and other stuff which varies. Also just introduced a roach feed, pictured below to keep as a dry food. The yellow cubes are for water, which i also read are not good, but they are for water.

Supplements - Using RetiCalcium Without D3 daily and every 2 weeks using RetiCalcium with D3 and Herptivite multivitamns every two weeks. All crickets fed are dusted.

Watering - I use the small dripper. I mist cage twice a day by hand. Once in the morning as we wakes at 7am and once when i get home from work at 4. I do not see him drink from the black dripper tube that is accessable to him, and do not see him drink from the misting much either. His feces urayed have been white, so i have not woried about hydration or seen any other syptoms.

Fecal Description - Last fecal produced, a week ago from saturday was the largest one made yet and was light brown with a slime coat holding the whhite big urate. Cham not tested for parasites. The poop was pretty smelly though. It was the size of my pinky.

History - Got him from DFW reptiles at end of december. W weeks ago he was moved from his normal location, inside a bedroom that is made to an office/his room and transported while in cage for a 20 min drive. We had foundation repairs made and had to live with brother for a week. His set up was made the same where we stayed. He was not handled and not exposed to any extreme elements as his cage remained covered while transporting. A few days ago, i tried to handle him and he got mad. Have only tried this twice. He does trust me enough to eat dubai roaches from my hand.


Cage Info:

Cage Type - Screen 16×16 reptibreeze. It is on a custom made stand that is 2.5 feet off ground.

Lighting - a 12" 10.0 t bulb from reptisun hood and bulp that is linear, and a 40 watt ge soft white bulb.

Temperature - Cage floor is from 61 degrees to 65, middle of cage is 71 degrees and basking at its top level is 95. Lowest overnight temp has gone to 59 degrees. Have a temp gage thing that stays towards botyom of cage to monitaor at all times, and when setting new bulb it reads after sitting in top of basking spot all day.

Humidity - Having trouble due to the winyer drynesd, but it can get down to 40 and jump to 60. A towel is kept on backside of cage that is sprayed into every morning and late afternoon and evening. And a water dripper catcher is at the bottom collecting water and 2 live plants. A money tree and a croton. Chameleon loves the money tree. I use a small humidity gauge. Its not digital like the temp gauge.

Plants - mimi Croton and money tree. He only likes money tree.

Placement - In a spare bedroom, no fans, vent at top ceiling, no high traffic. Cage is on a hand made shelf up off ground about 2.5 feet off ground.

Location - Plano, tx aka North Dallas, TX.
 
Dehydration, even low level constant dehydration will obviously affect his ability to move food through the GI tract. It will reabsorb moisture if it "senses" the cham is losing ground. Feeding soft-bodied insects such as silkworms and hornworms help a lot. I suspect your cage setup is spending more time on the "too dry" end of the scale. Is he drinking more often or longer? Is he drooling clear saliva while drinking? Does his tongue seem less sticky? Does his skin "tent" if you take a small fold between fingers and release it? If he's well hydrated it won't stay pinched. When you do see the urate part of poop, it should be white, not orange. You can tell if he's been holding onto that urate longer....the longer it sits, the harder and darker colored it gets. These are subtle signs that he's thirstier than usual.
 
Questions answered. Tried to be as detailed as possible. That why it took me so long:

Your Chameleon - Male panther, been in my care for 2.5 months. I believe him to be 4-5 months old.

Handling - Only twice after bring him home in a cloth bag.

Feeding- Crickets 7-9 daily medium sized. Last week it was 3-4 large due to not finding any in area at the time. Every morning at 7 am, crickets are dusted and put in a little cup, along with a superworm or dubai roach for variety. By noon they are all gone and eaten. Gutloading has been with orange cubes, which after buying i read they are not liked, but still use them to get rid of them while putting in fresh spring mix lettuce, potatoes, brocoli, apples, kale and other stuff which varies. Also just introduced a roach feed, pictured below to keep as a dry food. The yellow cubes are for water, which i also read are not good, but they are for water. I'm not a fan of orange cubes or the water gels or even some of the commercial feeds. I prefer to use greens, veggies and a small amount of fruit. I use dandelion greens, kale, escarole, endive, collards, squash, carrots, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc and a small amount of apple, pear, melon, berries, etc. I don't dry the leafy greens just shake most of the water off so the insects get water that way.

Supplements - Using RetiCalcium Without D3 daily and every 2 weeks using RetiCalcium with D3 and Herptivite multivitamns every two weeks. All crickets fed are dusted.

Watering - I use the small dripper. I mist cage twice a day by hand. Once in the morning as we wakes at 7am and once when i get home from work at 4. I do not see him drink from the black dripper tube that is accessable to him, and do not see him drink from the misting much either. His feces urayed have been white, so i have not woried about hydration or seen any other syptoms. If his urates are white then he's likely drinking.

Fecal Description - Last fecal produced, a week ago from saturday was the largest one made yet and was light brown with a slime coat holding the whhite big urate. Cham not tested for parasites. The poop was pretty smelly though. It was the size of my pinky.

History - Got him from DFW reptiles at end of december. W weeks ago he was moved from his normal location, inside a bedroom that is made to an office/his room and transported while in cage for a 20 min drive. We had foundation repairs made and had to live with brother for a week. His set up was made the same where we stayed. He was not handled and not exposed to any extreme elements as his cage remained covered while transporting. A few days ago, i tried to handle him and he got mad. Have only tried this twice. He does trust me enough to eat dubai roaches from my hand.


Cage Info:

Cage Type - Screen 16×16 reptibreeze. It is on a custom made stand that is 2.5 feet off ground.

Lighting - a 12" 10.0 t bulb from reptisun hood and bulp that is linear, and a 40 watt ge soft white bulb.

Temperature - Cage floor is from 61 degrees to 65, middle of cage is 71 degrees and basking at its top level is 95. Lowest overnight temp has gone to 59 degrees. Have a temp gage thing that stays towards botyom of cage to monitaor at all times, and when setting new bulb it reads after sitting in top of basking spot all day.

Humidity - Having trouble due to the winyer drynesd, but it can get down to 40 and jump to 60. A towel is kept on backside of cage that is sprayed into every morning and late afternoon and evening. And a water dripper catcher is at the bottom collecting water and 2 live plants. A money tree and a croton. Chameleon loves the money tree. I use a small humidity gauge. Its not digital like the temp gauge. Just make sure the towel doesn't mold and dries out everynight so it won't be uild up bacteria.

Plants - mimi Croton and money tree. He only likes money tree. Pothos is a good plant to use too..and hibiscus...etc.

Placement - In a spare bedroom, no fans, vent at top ceiling, no high traffic. Cage is on a hand made shelf up off ground about 2.5 feet off ground.

Location - Plano, tx aka North Dallas, TX.
 
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