Khayward014
Member
I'll try as best as I can. My parents keep thinking that liquid paraffin os the best thing because its what the guy I got Tipsy off of said to do.
Won't lay eggs! HELP!
- Thread starter Khayward014
- Start date
The reproductive organs are totally different from the digestive organs. Giving paraffin will do nothing except make her sick. It goes through the digestive track. Having her in an even more weakened state will make it that much worse for her to try to lay the eggs.
Khayward014
Member
Okay thank you. I spoken to a guy who has dealt with chameleons a lot before and he said she wasn't ready to lay eggs as he can't feel any in her. Apparently they will feel like marbles. He said that her digging tunnels was probably her testing the area or she is getting ready to begin the laying process soon. Does this sound right?
All I can tell you is that the pic you posted on Wednesday clearly shows eggs... You can see them below her skin. Now they may not be fully developed or calcified properly. This comes back to husbandry which you do have a lot that needs to be changed. Now if this is the same guy that told you to give her liquid paraffin than I would take anything he says with a grain of salt.
The ONLY way to know for certain what is going on with her and where she is in egg development is to go to a vet with reptile experience and have them do an xray to see what the eggs look like. If they look developed or not.
I will tell you that the husbandry is off for her. Correct supplementation, UVB lighting, feeding amounts and temp at basking are all extremely important when it comes to a female and their ability to successfully lay a clutch of eggs.
The cage is also really small. She may be going down to the bottom for the simple fact that the cage is too small and not set up properly for her. nets are not made for chameleons they are for bearded dragons.
I am not trying to pick on you. I just want you to understand there is A LOT going on in her environment that is not conducive to egg laying. Everyone is focusing on her needing to lay right now. And she may be ready. Or she may just not like her environment or is seeking out proper uvb lighting. Etc...
@MissSkittles might be able to go ahead and review your husbandry form for you.
Khayward014
Member
Okay. I'll try my best to get her to a vet. All husbandry i've been doing was also gotten off of this guy.
I understand hun it happens to a lot of people. Start reading through this for correct husbandry. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
Khayward014
Member
Okay. I'll read through this. Thank you so much!
Khayward014
Member
Okay. I've read through some of the bits but I still don't know how often to supplement her.
Take a pic of what your actually using. So we can see the label.
Khayward014
Member
Had to get a picture off of google as I'm out at the minute.
Attachments
So this one is not recommended. It has Calcium with D3 in it and multivitamins including vitamin A. If given too often it can overdose them. I am guessing you are using a screw in UVB bulb as well. Is this correct? If so it is coiled or just a bulb?
Khayward014
Member
So how often should I be giving her this? And do I need more suppliments or is this one fine? I use a a normal bulb.
What do you mean by normal bulb. Only a heat bulb? No UVB bulb?
I do not work with this one. The only thing I know about it is it an all in one high potency. Not something I would give to a cham. But if you are not using a UVB light I am guessing this is why she is not showing external mbd yet because she is getting a ton of D3 in this supplement. But long term this is not advised at all.
My chameleon - veiled, female, don't know the age as I wasn't told when I got her but my guess is around 8-9 months old. Has been in my care since 2nd Feb this year.
Handling - I handler her every two days for an hour.
RIGHT NOW I WOULDNT BE HANDLING HER AT ALL. SHE NEEDS PEACE TO LAY HER EGGS.
Feeding - feed her every day. Three locusts and a few mealworms as a treat occasionally. Feed her in the morning at 8am. Also gets a small tray of greens
THERES NO NEED FOR TH E GREENS. MEALWORMS ARE NOT THE BEST FEEDER AND AT MOST SHOULD ONLY BE USED ONCE IN A WHILE. CRICKETS, SILKWORMS, BSFL, ROACHES, AND ONCE IN A WHILE WAX WORMS, SUPERWORMS, HORNWORMS.
Supplements - sprinkle of Nutrobal on her greens every morning.
HAS SHE BEEN EATING THE GREENS? IS THERE VITAMIN D3 OR VITAMIN A IN THE NUTROBAL?
Watering - Twice daily by hand with room temp water. Don't see her drink
Fecal discription - never tested for parasites. Brown and white but a few days ago they had a small amount of blood in them.
THERE SHOULD BE NO BLOOD IN THEM.
History - no previous history that I can think of.
Cage info:
Type - glass. Length 17.5" on both sides. Hight 24"
BIGGER WOULD BE BETTER.
Lighting - Unsure of brand, lights on at 7am and off at 8pm.
ITS IMPORTANT THAT YOU HAVE A LONG LINEAR TUBE LIGHT...EITHER A REPTISUN 5.0 OR AN ARCADIA 6% ARE THE BEST.
FOR BASKING A WHITE LIGHT REGULAR HOUSEHOLD INCANDESCENT LIGHT WILL DO...WATTAGE THAT ORODUCES A TEMPERATURE OF 80F WHERE THE CHAMELEON SITS. MAKE SURE IT WON'T BURN THE CHAMELEON BY TESTING IT. HOLD YOUR HAND BELOW THE LIGHT INSIDE THE CAGE AND IF YOU WANT TO MOVE YOUR HAND, ITS TOO HOT. THE LIGHTS SHOULD BE ABOVE A SCREEN LID.
Temperature - basking spot is 60. Unsure of cage floor as we don't have anything to measure it with.
60F???? IT SHOULD BE 80F.
Humidity - don't use anything to measure humidity either.
YOU SHOULD KNOW THIS TOO.
Plants - not live
THEY SHOULD BE LIVE...NONTOXIC...WELL WASHED BOTH SIDES OF THE LEAVES.
Placement - Wall beside my bedroom door. Is hidden by a chest of drawers. Always have my window open a bit for ventilation and the wholes on the top of her cage aren't covered. No traffic other than me going to bed and leaving in the morning. Is 1.5 metres off the floor.
Location - Northern Ireland
Current problem.
Has been ready to lay eggs for a week now but no tunnel she or I has built was the one she wanted and is giving up digging.
HOW DO YOU KNOW SHES BEEN READY FOR A WEEK?
I forgot to talk about feeding/gutloading the insects...
You need to look after the insects so that your chameleon gets good healthy food.
Locusts, crickets, roaches can be fed greens such as dandelions, kale, collards, endive, squash, sweet potato, zucchini, sweet red pepper, carrots, and a very small amount of berries, apples, pears, etc.
Also...for supplements, you should be using a phos free calcium powder at all feedings but one a week. On that one day a week you should alternate between a phos free calcium/D3 powder and a vitamin powder with a prEformed source of vitamin A. All dustings should be done lightly.
Handling - I handler her every two days for an hour.
RIGHT NOW I WOULDNT BE HANDLING HER AT ALL. SHE NEEDS PEACE TO LAY HER EGGS.
Feeding - feed her every day. Three locusts and a few mealworms as a treat occasionally. Feed her in the morning at 8am. Also gets a small tray of greens
THERES NO NEED FOR TH E GREENS. MEALWORMS ARE NOT THE BEST FEEDER AND AT MOST SHOULD ONLY BE USED ONCE IN A WHILE. CRICKETS, SILKWORMS, BSFL, ROACHES, AND ONCE IN A WHILE WAX WORMS, SUPERWORMS, HORNWORMS.
Supplements - sprinkle of Nutrobal on her greens every morning.
HAS SHE BEEN EATING THE GREENS? IS THERE VITAMIN D3 OR VITAMIN A IN THE NUTROBAL?
Watering - Twice daily by hand with room temp water. Don't see her drink
Fecal discription - never tested for parasites. Brown and white but a few days ago they had a small amount of blood in them.
THERE SHOULD BE NO BLOOD IN THEM.
History - no previous history that I can think of.
Cage info:
Type - glass. Length 17.5" on both sides. Hight 24"
BIGGER WOULD BE BETTER.
Lighting - Unsure of brand, lights on at 7am and off at 8pm.
ITS IMPORTANT THAT YOU HAVE A LONG LINEAR TUBE LIGHT...EITHER A REPTISUN 5.0 OR AN ARCADIA 6% ARE THE BEST.
FOR BASKING A WHITE LIGHT REGULAR HOUSEHOLD INCANDESCENT LIGHT WILL DO...WATTAGE THAT ORODUCES A TEMPERATURE OF 80F WHERE THE CHAMELEON SITS. MAKE SURE IT WON'T BURN THE CHAMELEON BY TESTING IT. HOLD YOUR HAND BELOW THE LIGHT INSIDE THE CAGE AND IF YOU WANT TO MOVE YOUR HAND, ITS TOO HOT. THE LIGHTS SHOULD BE ABOVE A SCREEN LID.
Temperature - basking spot is 60. Unsure of cage floor as we don't have anything to measure it with.
60F???? IT SHOULD BE 80F.
Humidity - don't use anything to measure humidity either.
YOU SHOULD KNOW THIS TOO.
Plants - not live
THEY SHOULD BE LIVE...NONTOXIC...WELL WASHED BOTH SIDES OF THE LEAVES.
Placement - Wall beside my bedroom door. Is hidden by a chest of drawers. Always have my window open a bit for ventilation and the wholes on the top of her cage aren't covered. No traffic other than me going to bed and leaving in the morning. Is 1.5 metres off the floor.
Location - Northern Ireland
Current problem.
Has been ready to lay eggs for a week now but no tunnel she or I has built was the one she wanted and is giving up digging.
HOW DO YOU KNOW SHES BEEN READY FOR A WEEK?
I forgot to talk about feeding/gutloading the insects...
You need to look after the insects so that your chameleon gets good healthy food.
Locusts, crickets, roaches can be fed greens such as dandelions, kale, collards, endive, squash, sweet potato, zucchini, sweet red pepper, carrots, and a very small amount of berries, apples, pears, etc.
Also...for supplements, you should be using a phos free calcium powder at all feedings but one a week. On that one day a week you should alternate between a phos free calcium/D3 powder and a vitamin powder with a prEformed source of vitamin A. All dustings should be done lightly.
Last edited:
Khayward014
Member
Okay. I'll try and find out how often it should be used and she has two bulbs. One that provides heat and one that provides light. I'm not good with their proper names.
Khayward014
Member
She started going off of food and digging at the corner two Fridays ago.
Ok please understand. You should not be using that supplement. And you have to provide a linear uvb bulb.
You should be providing a T5HO linear fixture with a 6% bulb. Look up Arcadia Pro T5... Basking branch would be 8-9 inches below this fixture. Or Zoo med makes a T5 linear and a 5.0 bulb you can use.
Then you should be using a calcium without D3 at all feedings (except when the multivitamin with D3 is given).... There are a few brands for this. Zoo med repti calcium without D3 or repcal brand or flukers brand.
Then you should be using a mutlivitamin with D3. Reptivite with D3 or Repashy Calcium plus Lod version. This would be used 2 times a month only say the 1st and the 15th
Khayward014
Member
I don't know how i'll be able to use that bulb as the area to plug the bulb in is screw in and isn't meant for things that are long. I also don't have the room to leave 8-9 inches in between her light and branch.
Khayward014
Member
I've asked my mum what light she was baught and it is a UVB but it isn't a linear one. Does that matter or is a normal UVB okay? My mum is also gonna buy the new suppliments on Wednesday.
bbyoda
Chameleon Enthusiast
UVB light has to be linear in order for the chameleon to get enough UVB. The coil compact bulbs don't give enough and then the chameleon can develop MBD (metabolic bone disease). Basically their bones get weak and they don't have enough calcium to stay strong or in the case of girls, lay eggs properly.
This is why we're all worried for you and your girl. The person who gave the chameleon to you is giving you bad advice, sorry to say.
Show your mom the pics in the earlier post of the light bulbs. You'll need the new linear bulb and a new fixture for it to screw into.
This is why we're all worried for you and your girl. The person who gave the chameleon to you is giving you bad advice, sorry to say.
Show your mom the pics in the earlier post of the light bulbs. You'll need the new linear bulb and a new fixture for it to screw into.
