Veiled chemeleon was diagnosed with mbd

So....you need either he long linear reptisun 5.0 tube light or the long linear Arcadia 6% tube light to provide UVB for the chameleon.

Then for basking you need the incandescent regular white light (not led) bulb.

BTW...at night there should be no lights on.

I hope this is clearer.
Oh yes! Thank you. I have him in daRk T night.
 
A good learning lesson would be to google each different type of bulb and what their purpose is. Then bring info into reptile and plant world.
It might take longer but it will make sense. ---Incandescent- iridescent- LED- Things will get easier to understand. (y) if you have the time.
Back in the day-- I did a pie chart so I would remember. New bulbs now and they are only getting better.
 
A good learning lesson would be to google each different type of bulb and what their purpose is. Then bring info into reptile and plant world.
It might take longer but it will make sense. ---Incandescent- iridescent- LED- Things will get easier to understand. (y) if you have the time.
Back in the day-- I did a pie chart so I would remember. New bulbs now and they are only getting better.
Good idea. 👍
 
Hey guys. He is getting better! He is improving In strength and walking better. He actually got on a low branch ND held it for awhile. I also noticed this am his crown grew !!! He still is not hand feeding yet. I am still having to feed him. I not sure if he is doing it without me but I have still offered him a few dusted crickets in his cage. I got him a new light, I have been doing proper vitamins and making sure to gut load his food properly. O I also got a retirain system
 
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He is a little paranoid about ehat the mister is sitting up against his cage lol
 

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great news-- all we can wish for now is for baby steps with his recovery.
Since chameleons love to hunt, try smaller than normal food items (hope it will trigger natural instincts) then he will be eating like a monster.
Don't worry about the hand feeding for now, he seems very cautious (the EYE look). (y)
His colors look great too-- not fired up with anger. Good job!
 
great news-- all we can wish for now is for baby steps with his recovery.
Since chameleons love to hunt, try smaller than normal food items (hope it will trigger natural instincts) then he will be eating like a monster.
Don't worry about the hand feeding for now, he seems very cautious (the EYE look). (y)
His colors look great too-- not fired up with anger. Good job!
So you think I should stop hand feeding him to see if he will eat on his own now?
 
So you think I should stop hand feeding him to see if he will eat on his own now?
great news-- all we can wish for now is for baby steps with his recovery.
Since chameleons love to hunt, try smaller than normal food items (hope it will trigger natural instincts) then he will be eating like a monster.
Don't worry about the hand feeding for now, he seems very cautious (the EYE look). (y)
His colors look great too-- not fired up with anger. Good job!
Also, I noticed now that I have the mister, the floor dirt is really wet, should I change that out in am so it's not so wet or just leave it?
 
When a chameleon has MBD, the nutrients (mainly phos, calcium, D3 and vitamin A) need to be brought back into balance to correct it and then proper husbandry has to follow to stop it from coming back. Most of the crooked bones will remain crooked but the chameleon can still live a good life.

To bring things back into balance, the vet usually recommends a liquid calcium be given until the bones and muscles, etc are back to being strong again. When they are strong again th liquid calcium can be discontinued. The regular supplements should be given on the regular schedule along this extra calcium....and continued after the liquid calcium is discontinued.

The regular recommended schedule is PHOS free calcium dusted lightly on the insects at all feedings but one a week. On that one day, alternate between a PHOS free calcium/D3 powder and a vitamin powder with no D3 but that has a prEformed source of vitamin A...lightly dusted.

It's important to feed/gutload the insects well too.

Make sure the basking temperature is 80F or just slightly above.
Most recommended UVB lights are the long linear Reptisun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% tube lights.

This might help too...
https://www.chameleonforums.com/thr...-like-how-it-happens-and-how-to-fix-it.95071/

I hope this helps to explain it all.
Quick question. Is it bad to make the feeders look like powered donuts?
 
So you think I should stop hand feeding him to see if he will eat on his own now?
Why not put one or two insects in loose and see if he will eat on his own I'd take them back out at night if he didn't eat them so they won't bite him.
Or you could hold an insect a little bit away from his mouth to see if he can shoot his tongue out and get it or not.
The tongue often can't shoot out right when they have MBD because the muscles are week as well as the bones.
 
Why not put one or two insects in loose and see if he will eat on his own I'd take them back out at night if he didn't eat them so they won't bite him.
Or you could hold an insect a little bit away from his mouth to see if he can shoot his tongue out and get it or not.
The tongue often can't shoot out right when they have MBD because the muscles are week as well as the bones.
I've tried hand feeding him and he just doesn't act interested but I will ait I have been feeding him alot the past 3 weeks because we were having a dehydration issue and he wouldn't drink and I know food can help.
 
I've tried hand feeding him and he just doesn't act interested but I will ait I have been feeding him alot the past 3 weeks because we were having a dehydration issue and he wouldn't drink and I know food can help.
How do you know he was dehydrated? What color were his urates?
 
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