I want to build a custom Atrium enclosure for peach fuzz does anyone have some ideas?

[Thatcher]

Ok thanks

 

[Thatcher]

So I have decided to build a 3/3/5 enclosure would a t5 work still?

 

[Thatcher]

Do I have to have a stand for a 5 foot tall enclosure?

 

[Thatcher]

this is the size of it with no stand against the wall hand covering garbage

 

[ERKleRose]

So I have decided to build a 3/3/5 enclosure would a t5 work still?

Yup!

Do I have to have a stand for a 5 foot tall enclosure?

I would, personally, but it's up to you

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

So I have decided to build a 3/3/5 enclosure would a t5 work still?

I'll reiterate what I said in post #17.

1. More than 24" deep is difficult to reach into to clean, maintain, tend plants, reach the back.
2. It'll be very difficult to find a drain pan and or stand/table.

A T5 will definitely work, though I'd suggest one that extends the entire width of the enclosure.

Do I have to have a stand for a 5 foot tall enclosure?

It would be advisable. It's highly recommended that the basking site be at or above your standing eye level, especially in a higher-traffic area next to a door. If not, every time anyone comes into or goes out of that room, they'll be lumbering over the enclosure like a predator.
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-cage-placement/

Without a stand or table, where are you planning on putting the mister & buckets?

this is the size of it with no stand against the wall hand covering garbage

Tape has some limitations; stick a refrigerator (box) there and see how it feels.

It'll have to go to the left or forward several inches to allow access to those light switches.
Moving it forward (or not moving it to the left) will create a "hallway" inside the room, restricting ingress/egress—especially with the hat tree there. Personally, I'd go left of the switches.

 

[Thatcher]

I just put the tape their to see the size I'm gonna move it back to where he is now

 

[Thatcher]

So I will raise it off the ground by 1 foot

 

[Thatcher]

I'll reiterate what I said in post #17.

1. More than 24" deep is difficult to reach into to clean, maintain, tend plants, reach the back.
2. It'll be very difficult to find a drain pan and or stand/table.

A T5 will definitely work, though I'd suggest one that extends the entire width of the enclosure.


It would be advisable. It's highly recommended that the basking site be at or above your standing eye level, especially in a higher-traffic area next to a door. If not, every time anyone comes into or goes out of that room, they'll be lumbering over the enclosure like a predator.
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-cage-placement/

Without a stand or table, where are you planning on putting the mister & buckets?


Tape has some limitations; stick a refrigerator (box) there and see how it feels.

It'll have to go to the left or forward several inches to allow access to those light switches.
Moving it forward (or not moving it to the left) will create a "hallway" inside the room, restricting ingress/egress—especially with the hat tree there. Personally, I'd go left of the switches.

So for the uvb I'm getting a 36 inch and I might add and extra door on the side to help clean it in the back

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

So for the uvb I'm getting a 36 inch and I might add and extra door on the side to help clean it in the back

That still leaves one corner that's going to be a problem.

Is there some reason it needs to be 3' deep and 5' high? Width is not an issue; you can expand that to as much room as you have.... 3', 4', 6'...

Now, there are some 30" x 60" drain pans out there (important to remember that that's total dimensions and enclosures generally have to be a bit smaller to catch mister overspray).

While it can be handy, there's no law I know of that says enclosures have to be multiples of 6 or 12 inches.

 

[Thatcher]

I have a big piece of lpy wood I'm gonna cut then put a bunch of small jade plants to collect the water

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

Jade plants are succulents (they hold water in their leaves), so they don't do well when sitting in constantly moist soil, so let the top 1 to 2 inches of soil dry out between waterings. Indoors, this will probably mean watering once every 2 to 3 weeks
https://www.miraclegro.com/en-us/library/indoor-gardening/how-grow-jade-plants

Something that likes (a lot) more water might be a better choice.
Here are some lists of chameleon-safe plants:
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://www.madcham.de/en/pflanzen-fuers-terrarium/
https://www.chameleons.info/l/safe-and-unsafe-plants/

You might try cross-referencing plants from those lists with some from lists of good water garden plants.

 

[Thatcher]

Oh yeah that makes sense, so what plant/plants should I use at the bottom? a snake plant?

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

No, no, no. I have a snake plant in my enclosure, and probably shouldn't. They also like dry conditions and low-light, so it's stuck in a back corner where it doesn't catch any mist or light.
The chameleon likes climbing those tall leaves though.

We reptile keepers also need to become amateur botanists as well. Not only what's safe, but what's suitable for the microclimate/environment we're creating.

I have some Venus flytraps & Sundews (water garden plants) that virtually live in water, but I don't know their suitability for a chameleon enclosure.

plants that like wet conditions

 

[Thatcher]

So what should I use?

 

[Thatcher]

Just got some awesome pics of peach fuzz

 

[Thatcher]

 

[Thatcher]

the first is my phone wallpaper, I call it (very original) RAINBOW LIZARD! price starting at 39,999.99

 

[Thatcher]

(you can actually buy an 11"/14" poster from me of that pic just message me)

 

[Thatcher]

I just went to an antique store and found a huge wardrobe! That was only 40 dollars and it's 5'9" tall and 37" wide and 20" deep!!!