Getting a Kinyongia Multi. b.!

PrettyInInk87

New Member
I can't wait! I initially had my mind set on a baby Carpet Cham becasue of their beautiful colors and patterning, not to mention their cute little size. It was between a Carpet and a Pygmy... Anyway, I saw some pictures of a friends Kinyongia Multituberculata and I fell in LOVE with their cute little faces and pretty colors. I have a 12x12x28 screen cage for a little baby and can't WAIT! Thing is, i'll be getting him as a Christmas gift from someone and don't know exactly when it's going to happen BUT for the mean time i'm going to get his cage ready along with doing some extensive research. :D I have a Panther already but know Kinyongias require slightly lower temps. :) Any info. would be great. :D
 

Carlton

Chameleon Enthusiast
I can't wait! I initially had my mind set on a baby Carpet Cham becasue of their beautiful colors and patterning, not to mention their cute little size. It was between a Carpet and a Pygmy... Anyway, I saw some pictures of a friends Kinyongia and I fell in LOVE with their cute little faces and pretty colors. I have a 12x12x28 screen cage for a little baby and can't WAIT! Thing is, i'll be getting him as a Christmas gift from someone and don't know exactly when it's going to happen BUT for the mean time i'm going to get his cage ready along with doing some extensive research. :D I have a Panther already but know Kinyongias require slightly lower temps. :) Any info. would be great. :D
Congrats! I really like the Kinyongias. Those greens are really beautiful. They will want a cooler humid "montane" setup with a lot of foliage. Very light on the supplements especially vitamins. They are active and drink a lot. Mine was a major escape artist too.
 
Good to see your going with a less common genus! I wish more people would work with Kinyongia. Anyways about the info... I would keep him/her in the temp range of about 68-72 with a bit of a drop in temps at night maybe 4 degrees unless he is kept warmer throughout the day then a more signifigant drop will be needed. This genus has huge humidity requirments and lots "O" water is a must. Adding lots and lots of plants will help with the humidity and so will a dripper. As for basking that I would say is up to you all of mine are different, if they bask they do it first thing in the morning and then wont go near it the rest of the day, they do however love to bask in the uvb alot throughout the day. Supplementation is a trickiny thing with montane species as it can cause edemas from over supplemeentation which is very easy to do. I would not dust at all and just make sure the crickets are well gutloaded this should be all thats needed. if you have any other questions feel free to PM me! And I am sure Jared Cain will be popping in soon as he is considered ther "Kinyongia Master" around here! ;)
 

PrettyInInk87

New Member
Good to see your going with a less common genus! I wish more people would work with Kinyongia. Anyways about the info... I would keep him/her in the temp range of about 68-72 with a bit of a drop in temps at night maybe 4 degrees unless he is kept warmer throughout the day then a more signifigant drop will be needed. This genus has huge humidity requirments and lots "O" water is a must. Adding lots and lots of plants will help with the humidity and so will a dripper. As for basking that I would say is up to you all of mine are different, if they bask they do it first thing in the morning and then wont go near it the rest of the day, they do however love to bask in the uvb alot throughout the day. Supplementation is a trickiny thing with montane species as it can cause edemas from over supplemeentation which is very easy to do. I would not dust at all and just make sure the crickets are well gutloaded this should be all thats needed. if you have any other questions feel free to PM me! And I am sure Jared Cain will be popping in soon as he is considered ther "Kinyongia Master" around here! ;)
Thank you! Can't wait. How long do you think i'd be able to keep him/her in a 12x12x28 cage? I know they are a smaller species but don't know exactly what size.
 

Cainschams

New Member
Yes, he is local and the Cham. can be picked up instead of having to deal with shipping. He has a few unsexed juvies so i'm leaning toward one of them. :)
Cool!!! Glad you are taking an interest in the multituberculata and better yet CB bred specimen! Always buy CB whenever given the chance. They might cost more but they do so much better and you have less of a chance of getting heart broken getting a beat up poor WC.

I have a few really good articles if you PM me your email I can send them PDF format. Here is another article on them. http://chameleonnews.com/05DecKroo.html

I tend to suggest not keeping montanes and lowlands in the same rooms. However, I know people who do it and it wouldnt be impossible between a panther and a multituberculata.

Indoors I would keep multis 72 to 78 day time. No higher than 80. I gave mine a basking spot of around 80 to 85. Night time temps need to drop below 65 at least. My animals get as low as 45 in the colder months. All heat from the house is blocked off from my room and I heat and humidify it individually. This lets the night temps drop much lower than the rest of the house.

For humidity multis should be kept between 50 to 70% (striving for 70%) humidity during the day and higher at night.

Another thing to remember is that these are general numbers. K. multituberculata have seasonal variances in their natural environment. Luckily:rolleyes: where I live I get all four seasons and I use those to my advantage. I think it is important to mimic the seasons of their natural habitat. Not just keeping one set schedule for everything.

The big thing is trying to get that happy medium between the two. Which might take a bit of playing around. Things like covering three sides of the multis enclosure with corrugated PVC, plexiglass etc will help keep higher humidity in its cage than the panthers.

How old will the animal be when you get it? Better yet, how big?

These animals are highly active and can easily find food in a large cage as a small animal. But I wouldnt put a hatchling in a 2x2x3 foot cage. Not that it probably wouldnt live but I wouldnt make it that hard on it:D Once they start eating quarter inch to half inch crix I see no problem with housing one in an adult cage. My CB female that showed up at 3 months of age could have easily found every scrap in very large cage! What I am saying is, the 12x12x28 could last until the animal is around 6 monthsish I would say but could go into an "adult" sized sooner.

Cages should be densely planted with plenty of sticks to climb around on. They are a shy species. Mine would hand feed but absolutely hated being handled.

"Kinyongia master"??LOL!:D I do have a little bit of experience with a few species but there are quite a few others with great experience. I am definitely enthusiastic about the genus though;)
 

PrettyInInk87

New Member
Cool!!! Glad you are taking an interest in the multituberculata and better yet CB bred specimen! Always buy CB whenever given the chance. They might cost more but they do so much better and you have less of a chance of getting heart broken getting a beat up poor WC.

I have a few really good articles if you PM me your email I can send them PDF format. Here is another article on them. http://chameleonnews.com/05DecKroo.html

I tend to suggest not keeping montanes and lowlands in the same rooms. However, I know people who do it and it wouldnt be impossible between a panther and a multituberculata.

Indoors I would keep multis 72 to 78 day time. No higher than 80. I gave mine a basking spot of around 80 to 85. Night time temps need to drop below 65 at least. My animals get as low as 45 in the colder months. All heat from the house is blocked off from my room and I heat and humidify it individually. This lets the night temps drop much lower than the rest of the house.

For humidity multis should be kept between 50 to 70% (striving for 70%) humidity during the day and higher at night.

Another thing to remember is that these are general numbers. K. multituberculata have seasonal variances in their natural environment. Luckily:rolleyes: where I live I get all four seasons and I use those to my advantage. I think it is important to mimic the seasons of their natural habitat. Not just keeping one set schedule for everything.

The big thing is trying to get that happy medium between the two. Which might take a bit of playing around. Things like covering three sides of the multis enclosure with corrugated PVC, plexiglass etc will help keep higher humidity in its cage than the panthers.

How old will the animal be when you get it? Better yet, how big?

These animals are highly active and can easily find food in a large cage as a small animal. But I wouldnt put a hatchling in a 2x2x3 foot cage. Not that it probably wouldnt live but I wouldnt make it that hard on it:D Once they start eating quarter inch to half inch crix I see no problem with housing one in an adult cage. My CB female that showed up at 3 months of age could have easily found every scrap in very large cage! What I am saying is, the 12x12x28 could last until the animal is around 6 monthsish I would say but could go into an "adult" sized sooner.

Cages should be densely planted with plenty of sticks to climb around on. They are a shy species. Mine would hand feed but absolutely hated being handled.

"Kinyongia master"??LOL!:D I do have a little bit of experience with a few species but there are quite a few others who are just as enthusiastic;)
Thank you so much for the information and will definately check out the article. I'll PM you my e-mail in a bit... I have searched for Care Sheets on these little guys and haven't really found many. I'm not sure what size he'll be but ones I am leaning more toward are unsexed babies.
 

Ace

Avid Member
congratz!!! another cham already;):cool:

it seems you have turned to the Kinyongia side of the cham force ...lol jk:p

my next cham is gonna b a Melleri ...just wait and see:cool:
 

PrettyInInk87

New Member
congratz!!! another cham already;):cool:

it seems you have turned to the Kinyongia side of the cham force ...lol jk:p

my next cham is gonna b a Melleri ...just wait and see:cool:
Yes, already. Lol!:) It's only been 3 weeks since I got Hugh but I was already planning a second the day I got him! :p

Melleri are cool BUT Kinyongias are just SO CUTE! I can't wait to get the baby. :)
 

jessica

Avid Member
Lucky ;) You picked a great species to work with! Next on my list of species!

Oh and Melleri are not only cool they are awesome :cool::p
 

Ace

Avid Member
Yes, already. Lol!:) It's only been 3 weeks since I got Hugh but I was already planning a second the day I got him! :p

Melleri are cool BUT Kinyongias are just SO CUTE! I can't wait to get the baby. :)
oh no you didnt (snaps) jk

u best not direspect the triceros, Kinyongias got nothing ....:cool:

JAred is so gonna b on top of this ....among others that mite challenge this statement....


Kinyongias are awsome....but i think maybe....jusst maybe triceros are a better:rolleyes::p;)..............
 

PrettyInInk87

New Member
oh no you didnt (snaps) jk

u best not direspect the triceros, Kinyongias got nothing ....:cool:

JAred is so gonna b on top of this ....among others that mite challenge this statement....


Kinyongias are awsome....but i think maybe....jusst maybe triceros are a better:rolleyes::p;)..............
Hmmm... I don't know. Lol! I just can't get enough of those Kinyongia pictures. I dream about them... Lol!:p
 

Ace

Avid Member
Hmmm... I don't know. Lol! I just can't get enough of those Kinyongia pictures. I dream about them... Lol!:p
lol.....i kid i kid

and to be honest love the Kinyongia tenuis:rolleyes: but the triceros.Goeztie? sorry i think i misspelled it, JAred just posted a thread of them and they make squeak sounds....i WANT a pair now.....another species to add the list:cool: Go triceros!!! jk lol
 

PrettyInInk87

New Member
lol.....i kid i kid

and to be honest love the Kinyongia tenuis:rolleyes: but the triceros.Goeztie? sorry i think i misspelled it, JAred just posted a thread of them and they make squeak sounds....i WANT a pair now.....another species to add the list:cool: Go triceros!!! jk lol
Yeah, I saw those and they are cute. I watched the video and the squeaks are so cool. I'll stick to my 2 for now... I was between that and a Carpet but Kinyongias just won me over. I'm going to go see a friends of mines soon.:)
 

Carlton

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thank you! Can't wait. How long do you think i'd be able to keep him/her in a 12x12x28 cage? I know they are a smaller species but don't know exactly what size.
Actually, as an adult you'll want a larger cage than you might think. They will definitely use the space and larger bushy plants will do better too.
 

Seeco

New Member
I must say, I really like this thread;) Kinyongia multituberculata is a cool species -- Cain said "Mine would hand feed but absolutely hated being handled" and, while some can be handled, that observation of their contradictory nature is sharp. Both bold and stealthy, they would zap a cricket off a snake's head if the odds looked good enough.

Here's some guerilla warriors in training. Masterminds using every available source of cover while plotting revenge on me:

 

PrettyInInk87

New Member
Oh my GOD!:eek: Why'd you have to do that for? :p I'm just sitting here waitng for my friend to make the call to you and arrange things. (sigh) He's really busy with work but I hope he gets on it. :D Ahhhhhhhh!! I can't wait, damn you Seeco. :mad::p:rolleyes:;):cool::D:):(:eek::D:D:D
 

PrettyInInk87

New Member
Oh and another thing, Eman told me that his little guy is SO friendly and climbs onto his hand. He told me sometimes he has a hard time trying to get him off, lol! Hope I get one that doesn't mind being out and about with me. :)
 

Seeco

New Member
Well, the trick to handling is certainly food. Once they associate hand = food you can make some progress in handling. This is even easier if the order of things from highest to lowest is: Cham, food item, hand, your face.

I'm ready when y'all are.
 
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