Female Panther Chameleon Continuous Issues

G

GalmourKiwi

New Member
Female Panther Chameleon, 1Y4M, Cared for 4 months.
Handling - Everyday
Feeding - SuperWorms only, Rapashy Calcium Plus all feedings. 1-2 Worms every 1-2 days. Not gut loaded but eating barley.
Supplements - Rapashy Calcium Plus
Watering - Misting System, Dripper, She drinks from the dripper only.
Fecal Description - Usually watery, white and black, never tested for parasites, only for calcium deficiency - Positive
History - Previous owner used outdated UVB and I found out after the first month of having her. Overall, 7 months w/o UVB

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Screen cage 16x16x36, Regular safe plants, climbing vertical and horizontal, dirt for egg laying.
Lighting - ReptiSun 22' Linear Bulb, NOT EXPIRED, 12 Hour lighting
Temperature - Basking 95% - Top of Cage - 85-90 - Bottom to Mid - 75-80
Humidity - 50-60 Humidity using misting and my location.
Plants - Live plants, umbrella and other SAFE plants.
Placement - Cage located faced away from central AC and fan. Cage on top of desk, around 5 feet tall.
Location - Miami, Florida

I personally have no vets near me who can handle any issue with her.
 
Female Panther Chameleon, 1Y4M, Cared for 4 months.
Handling - Everyday
Feeding - SuperWorms only, Rapashy Calcium Plus all feedings. 1-2 Worms every 1-2 days. Not gut loaded but eating barley. Several things strike me as problematic here. 1) Feeding only superworms is not awesome. At this point, she probably won’t take anything else, but she also won’t starve herself. You need to offer better foods, especially ones that will gutload more easily such as crickets and roaches.
Supplements - Rapashy Calcium Plus Whether this is appropriate or not will depend on your uvb situation, but a lot of keepers who like the repashy program, prefer the calcium plus LOD.
Watering - Misting System, Dripper, She drinks from the dripper only. More info required: when do you mist, for how long?
Fecal Description - Usually watery, white and black, never tested for parasites, only for calcium deficiency - Positive
History - Previous owner used outdated UVB and I found out after the first month of having her. Overall, 7 months w/o UVB

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Screen cage 16x16x36, Regular safe plants, climbing vertical and horizontal, dirt for egg laying.Because female panthers are a bit smaller, some folks will say that the minimum cage size is the 18x18x36. Personally I prefer larger, but in any case, yours is too small.
Lighting - ReptiSun 22' Linear Bulb, NOT EXPIRED, 12 Hour lighting If memory serves, the linear retisuns are all t5’s (the t8’s were reptiglos), but more info is required: 5.0 or 10.0.
Temperature - Basking 95% That’s HOT! Try 85. Top of Cage - 85-90 Too warm. Bottom to Mid - 75-80 Too warm. Basking at 85, ambient at 75-78, and A NIGHTTIME DROP INTO THE 60’s
Humidity - 50-60 Humidity using misting and my location. Daytime humidity can be low, but nightime humidity should approach 100%. Try misting at night instead.
Plants - Live plants, umbrella and other SAFE plants.
Placement - Cage located faced away from central AC and fan. Cage on top of desk, around 5 feet tall.
Location - Miami, Florida

I personally have no vets near me who can handle any issue with her.
 
Welcome to the forum!

So a vet tested her for calcium deficiency but didn't to you what to do about it?

Please post some recent photos of her from the side.
 
I forgot to explain so here I'll go. She was egg bound and I believed she was egg binding because of how long she had them. I thought she was egg bound because of her lack of appetite. I took her to a vet but the they weren't knowledgeable about chameleons, just reptiles in general. I was given "Calcium Glubionate" which I fed her and after a few days, it acted like a laxative and she popped out all of her eggs at once. After about 2-3 months I tried to mate her with my male chameleon and it went successfully and she gave birth to a good sized clutch. After that, she become egg bound again but like the first, it was egg bound because of just being egg bound. This means she didn't have a male chameleon involved to produces these eggs. She has been popping out eggs every once and a while but no more than 10, and her body is slowly loosing weight from what I can see. I am able to see her back, ribs and tail bones. I just want to know if she has a living chance at this point. She's inactive and I have to force feed her most of the time. The feeding goes I open her mouth, I put a super worm in and after a few crunches and realizes its food, eats it on her own. P.S. I'm in Florida, I can't have Dubai's.
 
Please post several recent photos of her.

Calcium glubionate likely give her enough calcium to help her muscles be strong enough to push the eggs out. How many eggs did she lay each time?

She shouldn't be getting eggbound at all if your husbandry I right and she has no reproductive tract abnormalitlies.

Overfeeding, improper temperatures, improper laybin, etc can lead to egg undoing...and other issues.
 
Last edited:
First was 20, Second was 34, Third was less than 10 didn't keep count.
How much would you recommend I feed her daily?
 

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You said..."First was 20, Second was 34, Third was less than 10 didn't keep count.
How much would you recommend I feed her daily?"...your feeding I would say is fine because of the size of the clutches.
 
She is sooooo thin and looks extremely dehydrated.... Superworms really should not be the only feeder.

Have you had a fecal done? With as much as you are feeding she should not be this thin.
 
Beman said:
What do you mean by depending on how you see her? Have you had a fecal done?
Click to expand...
If I've fed her in the past like 1-2 sessions only 1 worm, then the next I try to give her two worms. I dont know what a fecal is. My guess is checking her feces. If that's the case, I have not seen any recently.
 
GalmourKiwi said:
If I've fed her in the past like 1-2 sessions only 1 worm, then the next I try to give her two worms. I dont know what a fecal is. My guess is checking her feces. If that's the case, I have not seen any recently.
Click to expand...
Ok I highly recommend you get a fecal done. Something is really wrong with your girl, she looks like she is on deaths door. A fecal is taking in a fresh stool sample to a Vet to be checked for parasites. She should not be so thin and parasites can be the cause of losing weight even though they are still eating. You can get feeders like crickets and discoid roaches in FL. I would do this. Typically a female should be fed 3 small feeders every other day. And this would mean real feeders not just superworms.
 
Beman said:
Ok I highly recommend you get a fecal done. Something is really wrong with your girl, she looks like she is on deaths door. A fecal is taking in a fresh stool sample to a Vet to be checked for parasites. She should not be so thin and parasites can be the cause of losing weight even though they are still eating. You can get feeders like crickets and discoid roaches in FL. I would do this. Typically a female should be fed 3 small feeders every other day. And this would mean real feeders not just superworms.
Click to expand...
That would be a good option, I'm tired of going to vets because they don't know anything about chameleons. Fecals are done easily in vets? Also how do they get parasites?
 
GalmourKiwi said:
That would be a good option, I'm tired of going to vets because they don't know anything about chameleons. Fecals are done easily in vets? Also how do they get parasites?
Click to expand...
They can get parasites from feeders, from other chameleons that are contaminated, if you have any that were wild caught and not fully treated for parasites. They can even come in as babies with them but not present as an issue until much later. You take the fecal in and they typically send it to a lab then let you know the results. Most vets will run a fecal without seeing the chameleon. But if it comes back with a parasite load then they will need to see her to get a weight on her to know exactly the state she is in and to give the proper medicine dose.

Where do you live in FL we can maybe get you the info for a good reptile vet.
 
Beman said:
They can get parasites from feeders, from other chameleons that are contaminated, if you have any that were wild caught and not fully treated for parasites. They can even come in as babies with them but not present as an issue until much later. You take the fecal in and they typically send it to a lab then let you know the results. Most vets will run a fecal without seeing the chameleon. But if it comes back with a parasite load then they will need to see her to get a weight on her to know exactly the state she is in and to give the proper medicine dose.

Where do you live in FL we can maybe get you the info for a good reptile vet.
Click to expand...
Miami, Florida
 
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