Equipment questions for my new setup

[Peperoni]

Hey everyone!
I'm thinking of getting a (male) cham, I feel like I've done a ton of research already but it seems like there's always more to learn.
I have decided to buy those things for the enclosure, what do you think?


This is going to be the feeder, but im sceptical, because its made of coconut that there might be a danger of coconut fibre ingestion, although it seems like its very compact and the fibers arent visible

for misting: Exo Terra Monsoon Solo 1.5 L 14 x 14 x 17 cm
for cage: EXO TERRA SCREEN TERRARIUM 90X45X90CM
UVB: ARCADIA T5 D3 ‘HIGH OUTPUT’ FOREST REPTILE LAMP 24W 550mm (for this one says that im going to be put on a waiting list, otherwise it would be my first choice) or EXO TERRA REPTILE UVB100 ( FORMER UVB5.0) 25W
reflector: ARCADIA FLUORESCENT LAMP REFLECTORS FOR 24W T5 LAMPS
basking spot: Exo Terra Daylight Basking Spot 50W + a base for the light
the classic dripper
Plants: Epiprenum "Marble Queen", Schefflera "Melanie", mostera Deliciosa, Epipremnum Pinatum, Hoya Memoria and pitcher plant. Also do i have to wait a whole month to be sure that there are no pesticides on them after i get them or just a thourough rinsing/soap cleaning and repoting will do?
food: dubias and superworms (unfortunately the only two options apart from mealworms that i have right now) and maybe fruit flies
supplements: Exo Terra Multi Vitamin Powder Supplement 70g, Zoo Med Reptivite With D3 56.7 gr
a hygrometer: Ksix Clima Sensor
i have a temp gun
+ i have to find branches for the enclosure and reaaaaly long tongs

I haven't owned a reptile before, only dogs, cats and saltwater fish so i really need to make sure that i have chosen the right equipment before i actually buy anything, and of course i want to make sure that everything is set before i choose the cham and bring them home. Also, i live in Greece so the reptile market variety isn't that great (considering the live food and the supplements for example).

Any input would be highly appreciated

 

[GrayMadder]

Hello! And welcome to the forums! It's awesome you came here first for information.

Here's a few links to help you with set up and learning about what you will need.

https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

You're going to want a t5 ho linear fixture and bulb for your uvb needs



For your supplements you will want a phosphorous free calcium without d3 to use daily. You can use the multivitamin twice a month and the calcium w d3 twice a month as well.

Check out neptune the chameleon on YouTube for information as well. She does great at explaining chameleon husbandry basics.

 

[ERKleRose]

Hey everyone!
I'm thinking of getting a (male) cham, I feel like I've done a ton of research already but it seems like there's always more to learn.
I have decided to buy those things for the enclosure, what do you think?


This is going to be the feeder, but im sceptical, because its made of coconut that there might be a danger of coconut fibre ingestion, although it seems like its very compact and the fibers arent visible
View attachment 292469
for misting: Exo Terra Monsoon Solo 1.5 L 14 x 14 x 17 cm
for cage: EXO TERRA SCREEN TERRARIUM 90X45X90CM
UVB: ARCADIA T5 D3 ‘HIGH OUTPUT’ FOREST REPTILE LAMP 24W 550mm (for this one says that im going to be put on a waiting list, otherwise it would be my first choice) or EXO TERRA REPTILE UVB100 ( FORMER UVB5.0) 25W
reflector: ARCADIA FLUORESCENT LAMP REFLECTORS FOR 24W T5 LAMPS
basking spot: Exo Terra Daylight Basking Spot 50W + a base for the light
the classic dripper
Plants: Epiprenum "Marble Queen", Schefflera "Melanie", mostera Deliciosa, Epipremnum Pinatum, Hoya Memoria and pitcher plant. Also do i have to wait a whole month to be sure that there are no pesticides on them after i get them or just a thourough rinsing/soap cleaning and repoting will do?
food: dubias and superworms (unfortunately the only two options apart from mealworms that i have right now) and maybe fruit flies
supplements: Exo Terra Multi Vitamin Powder Supplement 70g, Zoo Med Reptivite With D3 56.7 gr
a hygrometer: Ksix Clima Sensor
i have a temp gun
+ i have to find branches for the enclosure and reaaaaly long tongs

I haven't owned a reptile before, only dogs, cats and saltwater fish so i really need to make sure that i have chosen the right equipment before i actually buy anything, and of course i want to make sure that everything is set before i choose the cham and bring them home. Also, i live in Greece so the reptile market variety isn't that great (considering the live food and the supplements for example).

Any input would be highly appreciated

Welcome to the forums! Great job on making sure every is correct before you get a chameleon (not everybody does that)! What species and age of cham will you be getting? I wouldn’t use that coconut hanger as a feeder. Is your linear UVB bulb a T5 High Output Arcadia 6%? The two recommended linear UVB bulbs brands are Zoo Med or Arcadia, not Exo Terra. Properly cleaning and washing the plants off and repotting in organic soil (and covering the soil with rocks too big for a chameleon to eat) works really well! What are you planning to gutload with? Are any other roaches, flies and fly larvae, and silkworms, or more, legal in Greece? Exo Terra isn’t a great supplement brand. You need to buy a quality phosphorus-free calcium without D3 to use every feeding (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3, Repashy SuperCal NoD, or Arcadia Earth-Pro A). You will use the Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 on one feeding once every two weeks. To accurately measure basking temps, you’ll need a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where your cham’s casque/top of his back will be when he’s on his basking branch. Definitely read through all modules and the species profile of which type of cham you’re getting (if there is one), and listen to as many podcasts as possible, from The Chameleon Academy, as they have the most accurate and up-to-date info! Once we know what species you’re getting, I can post some more helpful links, as well! Also, don’t hesitate to ask away on here, we’re all happy to help! Here are great care images, too!

 

[CasqueAbove]

If you are wanting to know where to spend you money. the site www.caskabove.com has a downloads section with a list you can fill in and keep track so you know what you are getting.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

This is going to be the feeder, but im sceptical,

Good. It's mostly because I've never seen/heard of anyone using anything like that, and I tend to be conservative—I like to stick with what's known to work.

I would stick with a known dedicated chameleon feeder, or DIY based on one.

for misting: Exo Terra Monsoon Solo 1.5 L 14 x 14 x 17 cm

That will work for a while. Many here prefer the MistKing or CliMist, but poke around in the archives.

for cage: EXO TERRA SCREEN TERRARIUM 90X45X90CM

IMO this is too small. Prevailing wisdom is as large as you can afford, but at least 24"x24"x48". The height is needed because they are arboreal creatures and more comfortable when basking at or above eye level. Also because the bottom of the height will be taken up by either soil (in a bioactive setup) or pots, and the top will be empty to provide distance between the lighting and basking area.

UVB: ARCADIA T5 D3 ‘HIGH OUTPUT’ FOREST REPTILE LAMP 24W 550mm (for this one says that im going to be put on a waiting list, otherwise it would be my first choice) or EXO TERRA REPTILE UVB100 ( FORMER UVB5.0) 25W

Either an Arcadia T5 6% or Reptisun T5 5.0 are fine, running the entire width of the enclosure.

reflector: ARCADIA FLUORESCENT LAMP REFLECTORS FOR 24W T5 LAMPS

Most T5 fixtures come with a reflector, so there's no need to duplicate.

basking spot: Exo Terra Daylight Basking Spot 50W + a base for the light

NO. Please do not use "spots"; use an old-fashioned power-sucking household incandescent, or flood—either incandescent or halogen. Unfortunately, wattage must be found by trial & error—there are no plug & play options—too many variables. Also, lighting (both UVB and basking) are better mounted at angles to provide gradients of temperature and UVB strength so the cham can seek out the conditions it needs/wants.

the classic dripper

Not really necessary with a mister.

Plants: Epiprenum "Marble Queen", Schefflera "Melanie", mostera Deliciosa, Epipremnum Pinatum, Hoya Memoria and pitcher plant. Also do i have to wait a whole month to be sure that there are no pesticides on them after i get them or just a thourough rinsing/soap cleaning and repoting will do?

I'm not familiar with a couple of those, and it may depend partially on which species. Veileds are more likely to sample plants. As long as you've verified all those plants are chameleon-safe they should be OK. For plant prep., see:

food: dubias and superworms (unfortunately the only two options apart from mealworms that i have right now) and maybe fruit flies

Just be aware they can become "addicted" to supers, which contain a high fat content. Many/most local pet shops carry crickets.

supplements: Exo Terra Multi Vitamin Powder Supplement 70g, Zoo Med Reptivite With D3 56.7 gr

You should only need one vitamin supplement, but you'll also need calcium without D3 or phosphorus, and calcium with D3. See care sheets for scheduling.

a hygrometer: Ksix Clima Sensor

I'm not familiar with that unit. I use digital hygrometer/thermometers with probes similar to these.
https://www.amazon.com/Veanic-Hygro...l+hygrometer+with+probe&qid=1613230763&sr=8-5

i have a temp gun

Excellent. I would also highly recommend a Solarmeter 6.5 UVB meter to adjust basking areas correctly and to avoid replacing expensive UVB bulbs way too early.

+ i have to find branches for the enclosure and reaaaaly long tongs

Tongs for what? Tong feeding can injure tongues.

 

[GrayMadder]

Good. It's mostly because I've never seen/heard of anyone using anything like that, and I tend to be conservative—I like to stick with what's known to work.

I would stick with a known dedicated chameleon feeder, or DIY based on one.

That will work for a while. Many here prefer the MistKing or CliMist, but poke around in the archives.

IMO this is too small. Prevailing wisdom is as large as you can afford, but at least 24"x24"x48". The height is needed because they are arboreal creatures and more comfortable when basking at or above eye level. Also because the bottom of the height will be taken up by either soil (in a bioactive setup) or pots, and the top will be empty to provide distance between the lighting and basking area.

Either an Arcadia T5 6% or Reptisun T5 5.0 are fine, running the entire width of the enclosure.

Most T5 fixtures come with a reflector, so there's no need to duplicate.

NO. Please do not use "spots"; use an old-fashioned power-sucking household incandescent, or flood—either incandescent or halogen. Unfortunately, wattage must be found by trial & error—there are no plug & play options—too many variables. Also, lighting (both UVB and basking) are better mounted at angles to provide gradients of temperature and UVB strength so the cham can seek out the conditions it needs/wants.

Not really necessary with a mister.

I'm not familiar with a couple of those, and it may depend partially on which species. Veileds are more likely to sample plants. As long as you've verified all those plants are chameleon-safe they should be OK. For plant prep., see:


Just be aware they can become "addicted" to supers, which contain a high fat content. Many/most local pet shops carry crickets.
View attachment 292525

You should only need one vitamin supplement, but you'll also need calcium without D3 or phosphorus, and calcium with D3. See care sheets for scheduling.

I'm not familiar with that unit. I use digital hygrometer/thermometers with probes similar to these.
https://www.amazon.com/Veanic-Hygro...l+hygrometer+with+probe&qid=1613230763&sr=8-5

Excellent. I would also highly recommend a Solarmeter 6.5 UVB meter to adjust basking areas correctly and to avoid replacing expensive UVB bulbs way too early.

Tongs for what? Tong feeding can injure tongues.

Some people aren't comfortable touching bugs. I use long tongs cause I'm freaked out by the bugs the further away the better hahaha.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

Some people aren't comfortable touching bugs. I use long tongs cause I'm freaked out by the bugs the further away the better hahaha.

I use tongs myself—or rather tweezer forceps, but they aren't all that long. 6" Just something we had lying around. My main concern was not using them for feeding.

There comes a point when you either stop to find the tongs and risk the bug escaping where you can't get it, or you plunge right in and grab 'em with your fingers. It becomes easier after that.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

food: dubias and superworms (unfortunately the only two options apart from mealworms that i have right now) and maybe fruit flies

The issue with mealworms having too much chiten is overblown; they actually have less than many other feeder insects.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/the-evils-of-mealworms.180182/#post-1629972

 

[Beman]

The issue with mealworms having too much chiten is overblown; they actually have less than many other feeder insects.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/the-evils-of-mealworms.180182/#post-1629972

Here is the forum image for feeders. We do not reference the chitin being the issue it references the fact that they are a pour source of nutrition as a staple feeder. Which is true and why they are not recommended.

Here is the forum image so you have it for future posting. Along with the updated gutload image.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

Here is the forum image for feeders. We do not reference the chitin being the issue it references the fact that they are a pour source of nutrition as a staple feeder. Which is true and why they are not recommended.

Here is the forum image so you have it for future posting. Along with the updated gutload image.

Yes, I've seen them. The chart I posted above, which also gets a lot of repetition here, specifically says "excess chiten", and in the post Iinked to, I specifically said

There may be other nutritional reasons for preferring other feeders, but IMO, chitin shouldn't be one of them if used in moderation.

In a pinch or occasionally (i.e. in moderation), I see nothing wrong with them. Their nutritional value compares with many other feeders on the chart in the link. When faced with less nutrition versus none whatsoever, I think I'll go with not having an empty belly. YMMV.

 

[Beman]

Yes, I've seen them. The chart I posted above, which also gets a lot of repetition here, specifically says "excess chiten", and in the post Iinked to, I specifically said

In a pinch or occasionally (i.e. in moderation), I see nothing wrong with them. Their nutritional value compares with many other feeders on the chart in the link. When faced with less nutrition versus none whatsoever, I think I'll go with not having an empty belly. YMMV.

Yeah we try to use the forum images though within the forum. I wanted to make sure you had them for your files to share.

And I agree in a pinch they are not bad... it is when people feed only those and nothing else.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

Yeah we try to use the forum images though within the forum. I wanted to make sure you had them for your files to share.

And I agree in a pinch they are not bad... it is when people feed only those and nothing else.

No-one suggested they be used as staples—let alone exclusively. The OP said:

food: dubias and superworms (unfortunately the only two options apart from mealworms that i have right now) and maybe fruit flies

I find nothing wrong with that (caveat: supers in moderation, but if they were all that was available, I'd feed those too). I keep a container of mealies in the fridge in the event of a supply chain problem with other feeders. They're cheap, easy to keep & gutload, and readily available.

 

[Peperoni]

I'm really happy to be an actual member of the forums, i have been sneaking around for a while

The problem isn't that things are illegal here, it's more that they are not available in any pet store, even the ones that are specifically for reptiles. The only vitamin available apart the one i wrote is the Repashy Calcium Plus LoD 500 gr, which has the D3, but they dont have the one without D3. I will try to order through amazon and hopefully, they ship to Greece!
I went to the pet store and fell in love with a healthy female veiled cham (healthy because i went to the other 3 places we have in Athens that sell reptiles and theirs were not healthy and kept under bad conditions). I wasn't planning on getting a female one because of the extra stress of laying eggs but I feel like I'm hopefully ready to care for one.
Also, i decided to go for a bioactive enclosure since it's going to be a female and I managed to find both isopods and springtails.
My only issue is, after talking to the pet store guy i feel inclined to choose a glass enclosure instead of a screen one. He told me that he has been keeping successfully chams in glass enclosures for years, and considering the climate, i feel like during summer it would be extra difficult to retain the humidity levels so i'm a bit torn. If i choose the glass enclosure i will be sure to include pc fans so that there is better air circulation.

Thank you so much for your help, it's incredibly useful! i have read some of the "classes" at the chameleon academy, they are so well organized its pure bliss to go through it!
I will post some pictures when i set up the enclosure as well!

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

Glass (or some sort of acrylic, etc.) may be the best choice—IDK—I'm not familiar with the climate there. There should be some screen in addition to the top to provide a "chimney effect" for ventilation. It doesn't need to be much—especially if you do use muffin fans (which can be humidity/temperature controlled).

There are also "hybrid enclosures" which have solid sides & back, but not necessarily glass (usually PVC or wood). It's a matter of what's available to you, and personal preference. There are lots of ideas in the Enclosure Picture threads at the top of this section, as well as google image searches.