Cham not eating

repdog

Member
Chameleon Info:

◦ Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? Panther, male, 1 year old, since April

◦ Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Never not very nice when I try, Did get him a few times out of the cage to put him in the outdoor cage.

◦ Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? have tried all feeders, as much as he could eat, every am, depends on the feeders-breed own roaches, hornworms

◦ Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Repashy, right now every day-otherwise since he made it to 1 once a week for calcium, vitamins

◦ Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Automatic mister runs every hour for 120 seconds, no

◦ Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? droppings are normal when he goes- looks like the photos in the recent post on this topic. Yes he was just tested again this week.

◦ History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. Been on the site for 2 years researching before my purchase and should have everything set up correctly. Otherwise all summer long he was normal acting and growing.



Cage Info:

◦ Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? wood in 3 sides, top and front screen, dims are 5ft tall X 2 feet wide X 2 feet deep

◦ Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? lightyourreptiles fixture with 1-D3 6%, 3-6500K, set of led blue lights

◦ Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? bottom at 70, middle at 78, top at 84(daytime), 65 in the middle(overnight) measuring by digital temp and humidity gauge along with a temp gun.

◦ Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? 50-70% creating by auto mister and humidifier set at 60%, digital as listed above

◦ Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? yes live plants don’t remember the name of them but one taller plant, one husibus, one pathos.

◦ Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? Cage is located in a spare bedroom that is now a reptile room placed on an interior wall, no fans no vents or no high traffic area, cage height is 5 feet from the floor

◦ Location - Where are you geographically located? WI



Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

current problem is he is not eating. It doesn’t seem to matter what I put in the cage for feeders he doesn’t touch it. Has been going on for about 3 weeks. Starting hand feeding for the past week. Seems much better as I now can get a stool sample from him about 2 times a week. We have been to the vet and no issues are found so far. I don’t know what else to do at this point. He still moves all around the cage going from top to bottom. Has strong legs and jaw. I think eyes look good, he moves them around looking all over. Skin still has color and no burns, vet said he is in very good shape, tongue does work, tried mealworms a couple weeks back and he did eat them at that point and had no problems. He is one that doesn’t like anyone. As long as the screen door is closed he is fine to move about but once the doors open he hides. I normal try to stay out of sight so he would eat. Tried covering the cage again for 2 weeks and its not working.

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When's the last time your chameleon had a fecal? He could have parasites. It could also he other health issues. Another vet visit would be an excellent idea.
 
This is one of those cases where it appears you are doing everything correctly. Here's a couple things I noticed from your post. You state that you try feeding him in the mornings. Have you tried feeding him later in the day? Some of my guys won't touch their feeders until they have gone through their routines and have had their first drink for the day. I doubt that's the case, just a thought. I know you stated that he has already been to the vet, but I would run 2-3 more fecals. You would be surprised at how many fecals can come back negative for parasitic involvement when the chameleon is actually positive. His body habitus seems good but there is a lack of luster in his eyes. This is what makes me think there may be something parasitic going on with your boy.
 
Yes he has been to the vet, the fecal was just done this week. I have some Albon 5% (Sulfadimethoxine) coming. If everyone thinks its ok I will just treat him for it. What other health issues should be looked at? The vet can't find anything.
 
As Jannb said, Albon is not recommended for chameleons.

How old are your fecals before the vet looks at them? Is the vet looking at them or sending them out? Some parasites can only be seen in a very fresh fecal. Also, not all parasites will shed in every fecal, so you could have a clear fecal with an animal carrying a parasite load.

I once had a clear fecal after a long series of fecals and wormings (newly imported wild caught) but three weeks after the clear fecal instead of a stool, the chameleon produced a blob of bloody mucus. It was a completely new parasite we hadn't caught in the three previous fecals.

My vet told me once (when discussing a wild caught that wasn't making me happy) that snake keepers sometimes dosed their snakes with Flagyl to increase their appetite when they weren't doing well. Speak to your vet about it.

If you don't have a good reptile vet, now is the time to find one.

Good luck.
 
Ok I will not use the stuff I ordered. I"m in Wisconsin and my vet does see chameleons. How experienced I don't think its normal as cats and dogs are. Stool sample is no older than 24 hours.
 
One other thing as they get older and stop growing or at least slow their growth rate, their appetite drops. Is this what you are seeing? Were you feeding every day?

Have you been keeping an accurate record of his weight? Has he dropped weight and if so, how much? Just looking at them is not a good way to judge weight gain or loss. A growing animal will go through fat and skinny phases--fat before a growth spurt, then skinny, and then they build up a fat reserve again until the next growth spurt. You might look at them and think they've lost weight because they look quite skinny, but when you pull them out and get an accurate weight find they have gained weight, in other words grown.

Chameleons are particularly hard to judge weight on just looking at them because they can change their body so dramatically. One minute they are a fat little tank and the next they have flattened out into a skinny leaf and you can see every rib in their body. Accurate weights on a good scale are much better than just eyeballing their condition, especially for the less experienced keepers. Your boy looks quite full around the base of the tail and the hips, places you look for dehydration and weight loss. (I can't stress enough--I'm only looking at pictures so I really can't judge his condition at all.) If he is dehydrated, he will look as though he has lost weight. Dehydration will suppress the appetite, too.

None of us are there and looking at your chameleon--just you and your vet--but he looks quite plump and round to me. Maybe he is just grown up and is not as hungry. Your constantly giving him food is not allowing him to get good and hungry so he appears quite picky.

If the vet thinks he is in good condition, try withholding food for a couple of days. It is surprising how little food an adult male really needs. You might try different feeders. Bright green bugs (banana roaches) and things that fly are very exciting foods for a chameleon.

One other thing, you don't mention a basking light. I don't know panthers--I deal with montanes that don't have any basking lights--but he might need a basking light to give him just a bit more heat. When they bask in the sun, their skin warms up more than the ambient temperature. Your three 6500K lights will give him lots of light so he will be active--that's good. Your UVB bulb is only a 6% which I think is far too weak. Your enclosure is 5 feet tall. A 6% doesn't penetrate very far away from the bulb compared to a 12% and even that isn't going to penetrate anywhere near the bottom of your cage. I bought 6% for my newborns but they are in shallow enclosures only 16" tall, with the UV lights to one side of the cage so they can get out of it if they want.

Just some thoughts.
 
Ok I will not use the stuff I ordered. I"m in Wisconsin and my vet does see chameleons. How experienced I don't think its normal as cats and dogs are. Stool sample is no older than 24 hours.

Albon is not a drug to use. It has a very high mortality rate associated with it.

For some parasites, a few hours might be too long. When I take in stool samples, I will pull them from the cage immediately (within an hour--if I am taking in samples, I am checking all the time), then I put them in a plastic bag in the fridge and get them off to the vet to look at within three or four hours of being produced. Twenty-four hours seems too long for me.

Most vets with an interest in reptiles don't have a big enough reptile client base to support a practice of only reptiles, so don't be put off by their treating dogs and cats. As long as your vet is truly interested, that's what counts a lot. Most vets receive zero training of exotics in vet school.

Also, your cage is so big, you might be losing some stool in the plants, so he might be eating and defecating more than you think.
 
One other thing as they get older and stop growing or at least slow their growth rate, their appetite drops. Is this what you are seeing? Were you feeding every day? I do feed every day all the reptiles. Or at least they are offered food. If they don't want to eat that's fine with me but they are given the chance.

Have you been keeping an accurate record of his weight? Has he dropped weight and if so, how much? Just looking at them is not a good way to judge weight gain or loss. A growing animal will go through fat and skinny phases--fat before a growth spurt, then skinny, and then they build up a fat reserve again until the next growth spurt. You might look at them and think they've lost weight because they look quite skinny, but when you pull them out and get an accurate weight find they have gained weight, in other words grown. Now this is hard, I normally keep a very accurate record on all the reptiles I have, this one is very different for me. I can't really get him to trust me at all, he hisses and lunges at me as soon as my hands go into the cage. So I don't have a single weight on him. Everyone else is weighed every 3 months as adults. Babies are done every week. I have a new scale coming next week.

Chameleons are particularly hard to judge weight on just looking at them because they can change their body so dramatically. One minute they are a fat little tank and the next they have flattened out into a skinny leaf and you can see every rib in their body. Accurate weights on a good scale are much better than just eyeballing their condition, especially for the less experienced keepers. Your boy looks quite full around the base of the tail and the hips, places you look for dehydration and weight loss. (I can't stress enough--I'm only looking at pictures so I really can't judge his condition at all.) If he is dehydrated, he will look as though he has lost weight. Dehydration will suppress the appetite, too. Oh boy do they ever! I can't believe how they can change they way they look its been so much fun. I have a hard time believing he would be dehydrated as when I do get a poop from him it has very good urates.

None of us are there and looking at your chameleon--just you and your vet--but he looks quite plump and round to me. Maybe he is just grown up and is not as hungry. Your constantly giving him food is not allowing him to get good and hungry so he appears quite picky.

If the vet thinks he is in good condition, try withholding food for a couple of days. It is surprising how little food an adult male really needs. You might try different feeders. Bright green bugs (banana roaches) and things that fly are very exciting foods for a chameleon.

One other thing, you don't mention a basking light. I don't know panthers--I deal with montanes that don't have any basking lights--but he might need a basking light to give him just a bit more heat. When they bask in the sun, their skin warms up more than the ambient temperature. Your three 6500K lights will give him lots of light so he will be active--that's good. Your UVB bulb is only a 6% which I think is far too weak. Your enclosure is 5 feet tall. A 6% doesn't penetrate very far away from the bulb compared to a 12% and even that isn't going to penetrate anywhere near the bottom of your cage. I bought 6% for my newborns but they are in shallow enclosures only 16" tall, with the UV lights to one side of the cage so they can get out of it if they want. No basking light as he can get close to the lights which are very warm. He doesn't seem to stay at the top looking for more heat and does move to the bottom and all over the cage. I'm very anal about heat with my kids, drives my husband nuts. 6% is what Todd said to use so I went with that.

Just some thoughts.
 
Cage is cleaned out every weekend and checked for poop every day. I don't have a social life so caring for the dogs and reptiles is about all I do, its a normal routine I set. I get a poop sample from him about once week is what I was getting down to. I see all the crickets at the bottom and the hornworms are still there.

First thing in the am I get moving by starting the coffee and to the shower. Then its about 6:20 so I stand and watch the news for a couple of minutes while I get my coffee. Then I go into the reptile room and turn on the small light I have set up for the room itself, used for the sunrise so when the lights come on its not so bright in an instant. Then go about getting ready for work. Lights come on at 6:30am. Once I'm just about ready I go and check in on them all. Spray the frog tank down and turn on the mister for the chameleon. Clean out the hornworms and clean out any food that needs to be removed from the roaches. Finish getting ready and pack a lunch. Around 7:30am I then see who is ready to eat and feed them. Those that are not ready to eat I try once I get home. Cages are checked over and cleaned out of any poop once I'm home. Frog cage is sprayed down again and hornworms are cleaned out again.

My only other thought is that maybe he slowed down due to winter? From what I understand from here that doesn't happen. I was very happy to read that as my bearded dragon sleeps all winter even though her cage is 80 during the day and no change is lights or anything else.

Not sure any of this helps?

Yes things that fly would be more of an interest I think. What food items would that be? He was interested in grasshoppers when I took him outside this past summer.
 
Yes things that fly would be more of an interest I think. What food items would that be? He was interested in grasshoppers when I took him outside this past summer.

Banana roaches are really bright green and very active. I only hand feed them because they are so active and can get out of anything.

I like to grow out black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms). They are local here so I just scoop a bunch out of my compost heap, clean them up and keep them in a moist bed of coco fiber and feed them a bit. I think you can buy fly maggots or pupae online.
 
Banana Roaches scare the crap out of me. Hand feeding is a no go with this guy. I did try hornworm months and it worked for two of them but then that was it. But they fly at night I think that is the main problem. I need things that fly during the day. I will look into phoenix worms some more.
 
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