Can I use this 1 bulb to replace both basking & UVB bulbs?

[Klyde O'Scope]

What's the service life of a solar meter do the need re calibration after certain period of time?

Good question. TBH, this is the first time I've seen that question asked. It's an electronic gadget.
Company says the battery should last 2 years on avg.
They recommend recalibration after 1 year (for ~$100US); whether it really needs it or not, I couldn't say.
https://www.solarmeter.com/uv-meter-calibration.html
I would think that would be more critical for labs & testing than for reptile keepers, but IDK.

Maybe something here can help?
service life of a solarmeter

 

[Pickle-cham]

Expensive investment, the cheap ebay and wish uv radiation meters i guess as good as plucking a random number out of the air lol.
Spotted some sensors that Arduino & raspberry pi compatible doubtful these will be much better. Less than 90% cheaper though, But guess an instrument like this or a thermometer unless its accurate its useless ?

 

[salty dog]

Just a simple 25 watt regular light bulb for heat & a linear uv bulb works

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

Expensive investment, the cheap ebay and wish uv radiation meters i guess as good as plucking a random number out of the air lol.
Spotted some sensors that Arduino & raspberry pi compatible doubtful these will be much better. Less than 90% cheaper though, But guess an instrument like this or a thermometer unless its accurate its useless ?

Yes, it's an investment. IMO, it might not make sense for a 1 or 2 lizard keeper, but the more herps one keeps, the sooner the payback, and the more economical sense it makes.

Current wisdom (as I understand it) is that these fluorescent bulbs last 6 mo (T8) to a year (T5). That may be a good ballpark, but if some of them last longer, you'd be replacing them prematurely, and wasting some of their life. Having a meter could help one squeeze an extra few weeks or months out of bulbs, and the more bulbs, the more savings over time.

And like a temp gun, it's not something that one uses all the time (just to get things set up, and spot check later), so the calibration isn't likely to go off very quickly.

That's my rationale, anyway. YMMV.

 

[BrittBepler]

So I have the solarmeter, which has proven to be very useful for his normal/permanent setup, and I'm building the temporary one this weekend (will send pics), I'm using the SolarGlo PT2334 - 80 watt 2-in-1 bulb, but according to Exo Terra's instructions on the packaging (attached) and their UVB reptile guide (attached) a panther chameleon is 3 suns/stars, which means that this bulb should be 24" (or 60cm) above the highest branch he would bask on. That seems really high, and if I follow the chart that means the heat will only be 80 degrees (which isn't warm enough to bask), and the UVB radiation will then be 25µW/cm² which then would be 15nm? which seems much lower than the optimal range of 290-310nm, or am I totally getting this wrong? According to the bulb chart wouldn't I be better off going with the 5 suns/stars and placing the bulb 8-12" from the branch which would be 90 degrees and 205µW/cm² and 120nm?

I read online that: 290 - 310nm (nanometers) range, in what is known as the "UVB" range, act on natural cholesterols in skin to make vitamin D3, and this is optimal range for reptiles.

I understand that: 50µW/cm² of uvb radiation at the top of the tank is the same as shade outside. 150µW/cm² is partial sun, and 350µW/cm² is about full sun.

I checked this thread and still can't figure out what to do: https://www.chameleonforums.com/thr...ng-you-really-need-to-know.80869/#post1023370

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

I'm using the SolarGlo PT2334 - 80 watt 2-in-1 bulb, but according to Exo Terra's instructions on the packaging (attached) and their UVB reptile guide (attached) a panther chameleon is 3 suns/stars, which means that this bulb should be 24" (or 60cm) above the highest branch he would bask on. That seems really high, and if I follow the chart that means the heat will only be 80 degrees (which isn't warm enough to bask),

I agree; that all sounds very confusing to me too.

This is the main reason many folks recommend against 2-in-1 bulbs; they're very difficult to balance basking temps with UV, and are especially... challenging if your ambient temperatures fluctuate by more than a couple degrees.

TBH, I don't understand all the tech (nm, µW/cm², and "stars") stuff, which is another reason I got the Solarmeter. I can understand the basking area needs a UVI of X for a particular lizard, and once that's established, I can separately adjust a basking lamp to get the right basking temperature (or range, if installed at an angle). I can also then move the basking lamp a little closer on cooler days, or further on warmer days, without having to futz with the UV.

 

[BrittBepler]

I agree; that all sounds very confusing to me too.

This is the main reason many folks recommend against 2-in-1 bulbs; they're very difficult to balance basking temps with UV, and are especially... challenging if your ambient temperatures fluctuate by more than a couple degrees.

TBH, I don't understand all the tech (nm, µW/cm², and "stars") stuff, which is another reason I got the Solarmeter. I can understand the basking area needs a UVI of X for a particular lizard, and once that's established, I can separately adjust a basking lamp to get the right basking temperature (or range, if installed at an angle). I can also then move the basking lamp a little closer on cooler days, or further on warmer days, without having to futz with the UV.

Glad I’m not the only one!

 

[Beman]

So I have the solarmeter, which has proven to be very useful for his normal/permanent setup, and I'm building the temporary one this weekend (will send pics), I'm using the SolarGlo PT2334 - 80 watt 2-in-1 bulb, but according to Exo Terra's instructions on the packaging (attached) and their UVB reptile guide (attached) a panther chameleon is 3 suns/stars, which means that this bulb should be 24" (or 60cm) above the highest branch he would bask on. That seems really high, and if I follow the chart that means the heat will only be 80 degrees (which isn't warm enough to bask), and the UVB radiation will then be 25µW/cm² which then would be 15nm? which seems much lower than the optimal range of 290-310nm, or am I totally getting this wrong? According to the bulb chart wouldn't I be better off going with the 5 suns/stars and placing the bulb 8-12" from the branch which would be 90 degrees and 205µW/cm² and 120nm?

I read online that: 290 - 310nm (nanometers) range, in what is known as the "UVB" range, act on natural cholesterols in skin to make vitamin D3, and this is optimal range for reptiles.

I understand that: 50µW/cm² of uvb radiation at the top of the tank is the same as shade outside. 150µW/cm² is partial sun, and 350µW/cm² is about full sun.

I checked this thread and still can't figure out what to do: https://www.chameleonforums.com/thr...ng-you-really-need-to-know.80869/#post1023370

What is the solarmeter 6.5 telling you for the UVI level? You want a 2-3max at basking. You want to measure it after the bulb has been on for about an hour.

 

[BrittBepler]

What is the solarmeter 6.5 telling you for the UVI level? You want a 2-3max at basking. You want to measure it after the bulb has been on for about an hour.

I haven't built the temp enclosure yet, once I do I will measure that. Just wondering if I could get ahead of the curve by calculating distance for this bulb before I set it up.

 

[Beman]

I haven't built the temp enclosure yet, once I do I will measure that. Just wondering if I could get ahead of the curve by calculating distance for this bulb before I set it up.

It is all jiberish to me I understand the UVI levels but not when they do it that way... The only person that I know that understands that is @nightanole
Even then are they saying that those are the levels through screen or not?

 

[nightanole]

Cant calculate. You would be surprised how much it changes based on screen mesh size, and gauge of mesh, etc, even the distance between the bulb and mesh. General rule is 10-12" away from the bulb if sitting on top of a reptibreeze XL as being the closest the chameleon should be, with a 5.0/6%. Anything beyond that and who knows. Beman doesnt get squat with her 6% because of the staggered bulb layout of her hood and had to get a 12%. Mean while with my in the cage setup, i get her levels at 18", with just a 6%.

 

[Beman]

Cant calculate. You would be surprised how much it changes based on screen mesh size, and gauge of mesh, etc, even the distance between the bulb and mesh. General rule is 10-12" away from the bulb if sitting on top of a reptibreeze XL as being the closest the chameleon should be, with a 5.0/6%. Anything beyond that and who knows. Beman doesnt get squat with her 6% because of the staggered bulb layout of her hood and had to get a 12%. Mean while with my in the cage setup, i get her levels at 18", with just a 6%.

Hey don’t pick on my hood lol

 

[BrittBepler]

UPDATE:

Since I have a solarmeter 6.5r and I use a SolarGlo PT2334 - 80 watt 2-in-1 bulb, I've been able to dial in the heat/light source pretty ideally. My solarmeter 6.5r reads around UVI 1.3-1.7 at his basking branch depending where I move the meter under the blulb's reach where it shines on the branch, and the temperature hovers around 84-85 degrees at the basking branch, which both look to be ideal ranges for the needs of a panther as it relates to heat and light.

1. How do I know if my lighting has the proper µW/cm² range mentioned in the other posts (30-35 µW/cm² ) for my male panther chameleon?
2. Vitamin D3 production happens in the 280-320 range, how can I tell my readings above are in this range? Is there a calculation I need to do based on the UVI reading from the solarmeter 6.5r?

 

[Beman]

UPDATE:

Since I have a solarmeter 6.5r and I use a SolarGlo PT2334 - 80 watt 2-in-1 bulb, I've been able to dial in the heat/light source pretty ideally. My solarmeter 6.5r reads around UVI 1.3-1.7 at his basking branch depending where I move the meter under the blulb's reach where it shines on the branch, and the temperature hovers around 84-85 degrees at the basking branch, which both look to be ideal ranges for the needs of a panther as it relates to heat and light.

1. How do I know if my lighting has the proper µW/cm² range mentioned in the other posts (30-35 µW/cm² ) for my male panther chameleon?
2. Vitamin D3 production happens in the 280-320 range, how can I tell my readings above are in this range? Is there a calculation I need to do based on the UVI reading from the solarmeter 6.5r?

https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-cage-set-up-replicating-the-sun/

 

[BrittBepler]

THX. Now I'm very intrigued.

If you could count on the weather, you might not even need a UVB for that length of time.
I can't find the reference, but allegedly an hour of natural sun is the equivalent of a much greater number of hours under artificial UVB.

Okay it's almost finished. I've affixed strong magnets to the sides of the mesh butterfly cage (which is bigger than his permanent setup by a few inches), then affix magnets to the various branches. I've setup a light hanging rod to suspend the SolarGlo 2-1 bulb, I've dialed in the UVI to be between 1.3-1.7 around where his back would be as well as 85 degrees for basking. The large plant I'm putting in the middle is shown separately in it's own pic. Imagine this setup with the large plant in the middle and this cage being on a table to make it high up. Thoughts? The mesh cage pops open and closed so easily fits in my car.

 

[BrittBepler]

UPDATE:

Since I have a solarmeter 6.5r and I use a SolarGlo PT2334 - 80 watt 2-in-1 bulb, I've been able to dial in the heat/light source pretty ideally. My solarmeter 6.5r reads around UVI 1.3-1.7 at his basking branch depending where I move the meter under the blulb's reach where it shines on the branch, and the temperature hovers around 84-85 degrees at the basking branch, which both look to be ideal ranges for the needs of a panther as it relates to heat and light.

1. How do I know if my lighting has the proper µW/cm² range mentioned in the other posts (30-35 µW/cm² ) for my male panther chameleon?
2. Vitamin D3 production happens in the 280-320 range, how can I tell my readings above are in this range? Is there a calculation I need to do based on the UVI reading from the solarmeter 6.5r?

more pics

 

[BrittBepler]

https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-cage-set-up-replicating-the-sun/

Thanks, have read that so many times, still can't figure out answers to my ?s

 

[Beman]

Thanks, have read that so many times, still can't figure out answers to my ?s

The main thing your looking for is the effective minimum UVI level correct? You will not find this specifically. Panthers and Veileds do well in a UVI 3 level. I would be surprised if you find the answers switching it from the number and letter formula to the UVI level you get from the solarmeter. I have not.

If you go to https://www.arcadiareptile.com/lighting/guide/
And put in Panther Chameleon they will tell you a basking zone of 3-4 UVI. They do not believe in additional D3 supplementation though. If you have a level of 3 uvi with a solarmeter and are checking your levels consistantly to make sure your pulling the same numbers and that the bulb does not die out then you would not have to supplement calcium with D3 because they are able to convert it on their own from the UVB lighting.

So your numbers at basking your getting for a UVI level are lower then what the line of thinking is. This does not mean that a 1.7 UVI is not adequate... Just that no one has studied and published the minimum effective UVI level without worry of MBD.

 

[BrittBepler]

The main thing your looking for is the effective minimum UVI level correct? You will not find this specifically. Panthers and Veileds do well in a UVI 3 level. I would be surprised if you find the answers switching it from the number and letter formula to the UVI level you get from the solarmeter. I have not.

If you go to https://www.arcadiareptile.com/lighting/guide/
And put in Panther Chameleon they will tell you a basking zone of 3-4 UVI. They do not believe in additional D3 supplementation though. If you have a level of 3 uvi with a solarmeter and are checking your levels consistantly to make sure your pulling the same numbers and that the bulb does not die out then you would not have to supplement calcium with D3 because they are able to convert it on their own from the UVB lighting.

So your numbers at basking your getting for a UVI level are lower then what the line of thinking is. This does not mean that a 1.7 UVI is not adequate... Just that no one has studied and published the minimum effective UVI level without worry of MBD.

Super helpful thanks! Sounds like I just need to supplement with D3 on a normal schedule if I can't get the UVI past 1.7 without raising the basking branch heat to go over 88-90 degrees.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

UPDATE:

Since I have a solarmeter 6.5r and I use a SolarGlo PT2334 - 80 watt 2-in-1 bulb, I've been able to dial in the heat/light source pretty ideally. My solarmeter 6.5r reads around UVI 1.3-1.7 at his basking branch depending where I move the meter under the blulb's reach where it shines on the branch, and the temperature hovers around 84-85 degrees at the basking branch, which both look to be ideal ranges for the needs of a panther as it relates to heat and light.

1. How do I know if my lighting has the proper µW/cm² range mentioned in the other posts (30-35 µW/cm² ) for my male panther chameleon?
2. Vitamin D3 production happens in the 280-320 range, how can I tell my readings above are in this range? Is there a calculation I need to do based on the UVI reading from the solarmeter 6.5r?

My understanding (and please correct me if I got this wrong) is that with using the UVI, you don't have to do the calculating or be concerned (too much) with the other stuff. If you're getting the recommended UVI (by the bulb mfrs. for different reptiles), you should be fine.

Perhaps not perfect, but it works well enough to keep them healthy.