BTS -- new adoption -- help!

[ijmccollum]

I don't know how it happens, other than I am just a softie (or sucker) -- damn my formative years. Got a call for an adoptive/rescue blue tongue skink. No prob, I have been following this animal for some time and knew it had some issues, ie., recurrent mites and bubbly eye (indication of URI). I had been told that it has received repeated vet care but the problems still resurface.

Unfortunately we do not have an exotic (reptile) vet of great confidence in the general area. Therefore i am putting out request for information regarding the care of this species in regard to the above concerns.

I am wondering if the mites have infested the nares/ears/ducts or into lungs so that erradication has become execeptionally difficult. Or if the substrate it was kept on exacerbated this condition and can be erradicated if changed.

So far as I know a wood type substrate is what was used. I have kept all desert/arid type animals on sand with humid hidies as needed and am wondering if I put this skink on sand if that will help with the mites.

As for the bubbly eye when it hisses, I have no idea.

I do not think there has been alot of socialization for this animal so I do not want to stress it more than necessary.

Another critical concern is : not allowing this to impact the other onsite critters. They are are all happy and healthy currently. My biggest concern is that the mites do not jump habitat. How do I keep them stationary till irradicated? They are in seperate rooms and I can use clorox wipes between care but will that be enough?

Please advise. I will not be insulted.

 

[SS4Luck]

i dont know what a BTS is, but as far as quarentine, with snakes the general accepted thing is to keep them in seperate air spaces. Rooms on WAAAAY opposite ends of the house, or in the garage with the new one for a while. The clorox wipes are a good thing too.

 

[ijmccollum]

Thanks for your reply. Their skin is very much like that of a snakes. Since there is 2 ft of snow in the front yard and we don't have a heated garage, the basement will have to do. Sounds like you talking uber quarantine.

 

[SS4Luck]

haha i ahve 11 snakes, my 3 chams, a bearded dragon and a scorpion... all in my bedroom, so when i get something new they get the hardcore quarentine treatment cuz i dont want to bring something into my rack/room and have it wipe everyone out.

It seems extreme but its the safest way

 

[ijmccollum]

Agreed. My critters are to precious to mess with. I do have a fear of the dog tracking them about though. Hope they are more reptile specific.

 

[coolmoon]

Sorry can't help much with the home care ideas. There are two vets here local that you may try, Parrish creek in centerville is suppose to have a good reptile guy. I have only dealt with him once so can't tell you much. Dr. Clough at Birch creek in ogden is good. I go to him with my guys and I really like him.

 

[ijmccollum]

Sorry can't help much with the home care ideas. There are two vets here local that you may try, Parrish creek in centerville is suppose to have a good reptile guy. I have only dealt with him once so can't tell you much. Dr. Clough at Birch creek in ogden is good. I go to him with my guys and I really like him.

Thanks for a name and place. I think I have heard of Birch Creek mentioned before. I will look this person up.

 

[jojackson]

Hows the Bluey going mate?

 

[ijmccollum]

Hows the Bluey going mate?

Hi, thanks for asking. Has not been to the vet yet. Poos and urates appear normal but will still need to be checked. Toweling gets changed and tank sprayed nightly for mites -- as well as the critter proper. Fresh drinking water -- actually caught it drinking -- kind of cool watching that blue tongue lapping. I would think it would eat more but it does have daily movements. Preference seems to be veggies with cat food but still is a lite eater. Had thought about doing eggs but don't have a nonstick fry pan to scramble with. Am trying to pair the food list to my beardie so life is easier. Pete (beardie) gets pretty excited in the morning when he sees me chopping things in the kitchen. How close do you think I can get to same diet for both? I stopped in for wax worms and super worms on the way home tonight to see if I can get some other proteins going. I usually don't do too many of those due to fats and megeaworm size for most my guys. Though Pete will be really excited to see super worms again.

I do believe I am making headway with the mite issue. Eye does not seem as bubblie but respiration still gets laboured when stressed. That is my biggest concern for now. I did toss the moss and am keeping things on the dry side. Checked with co-workers and our senior research leader regarding local vets. There is one in the area that might be good to start with before I head way south for ones with explicit reptile care.

Still remains un-named since we do not know sex and can't come up with a unisex name that we all like. Feel free to thow any names out there!

 

[jojackson]

Boiled egg is fine mate, even raw. Garden snails will be relished (make sure they are clean).
Cat food tends to be high protein, more so than dog food, which is my preference as far as that goes. (wet type in a can) Fruit salad, leafy greens, freezer slowed roaches/crix will all be eaten.
As for respiration, they do huff N puff a bit when stressed. Is it WC or Cb?
What did you end up doing with the heating?

 

[greeneyes78]

As for the eggs, you can also scramble them in the microwave. Put them in a glass dish for a short time, stir, put it again until finished. Mine also like wax and meal worms, which I mix in with his greens once or twice a week.

I agree, when stressed they tend to hiss, which at first I took as sign of poor respiration too. I've since learned that it is just a way to tell you to back off. I'm glad you're making headway with the mites and that his eye isn't bubbling as much. Keep up the good work and good luck!

 

[ijmccollum]

Will try boiled egg then. Did try super worms this a.m and while Pete relishes them -- snaps them in half and gobbles them down, the bluey was interested but gingerly ate one -- no snapping in half just slowly into mouth whole. I would have thought those maws like a compact crusher. Later it took another super and three waxworms. When I put in mustard greens/kale and a blueberry cut in half, it snagged the berry but left the greens.

All the other critters got hand fed waxworms this a.m with exception of the frogs and AFT geck -- they were all asleep. Kind of cool since it was the first time my chams hand fed.

As for lamps, I haven't changed anything yet. Haven't been able to find the red bulb -- lost in the house somewhere -- may end up getting a heat coil. I do have small under tank heaters but I am afraid of burned bellies.

Am beginning to think it a female since the head is not "large" and no decernable tail bulges. Have no idea if it is WC or CB. Would like to think the latter but who knows.

 

[jojackson]

I do have small under tank heaters but I am afraid of burned bellies.

Unless its very very sick, it will move on/off as it chooses. UTH should cover only enough of one end , to put a hide ontop. A hide or something to burrow under, should be provided both ends of the gradient.
NOTE: some of the UTH should be exposed to air to prevent overheating.

Am beginning to think it a female since the head is not "large" and no decernable tail bulges. Have no idea if it is WC or CB. Would like to think the latter but who knows.

Very hard to tell with blueies unless you have two for comparison. Males have a 'wider' head and likewise the base of the tail is wider to accomodate hemipenes.
The females tail is rather sharply tapered, where the males tapers gradually.

"Put your finger in the hole, If it smiles, it's a girl, If it bites, it's a boy!"

 

[ijmccollum]

"Put your finger in the hole, If it smiles, it's a girl, If it bites, it's a boy!"

AaaaaH! I don't think I can do that -- that just seems so wrong.

 

[jojackson]

I was kidding mate, Thats just crocodiles!~

 

[Cainschams]

"Put your finger in the hole, If it smiles, it's a girl, If it bites, it's a boy!"

LMAO!!!!!! Hehehehe What a great way to sex an animal LOL!!!! I have actually thought about getting my male K. tenuis all "hot and bothered" since they seem to not get excited when a female is near I even told them I have no problems with their sexuality as long as each at least partake in a straight sexual act. After that they can go on doing what they want I know, that is bad. Trying to convince my kids to be how I want them to be. They obviously dont want to but hey, they are reptiles not humans

Probably way too much info

Now to be a little more serious To the OP and anyone else who is far from an exotic vet or far away from an exotic vet that is experienced with the type of lizard you are having a problem with. You can always get a fecal tested and standard reptile practices done from any vet, whether or not they are experienced in that type of animal. This is common practice and any exotic vet should be able to tell what is in your lizards poop and give the right medication and dosage for the lizard and its weight. However, phone consultations can sometimes be performed with a vet that has experience in your species of lizard. Getting a general diagnosis from a "less qualified" vet in the particular reptile you are having a problem with and then consulting one with experience, with the species in question, over the phone may be a better option than traveling a very far distance that some have to travel. Not all tests can be performed and delt with from the experienced vet but a "run down" of what might be going on and treatment can be suggested. Just hope your vet is up for opinions from, just an animal keeper. Maybe even the two can consult with each other and come up with a conclusion. I would think that usually a vet who has no experience with a certain animal would be more than willing to get a better idea of how to take care of problems in such animals.

I have heard that Dr. Stahl (http://www.seavs.com/) will provide phone consultations (for a price of course) and I am sure that others would also. I am not sure what the stipulations are but it would be worth a try for one to find out. Dr. Stahl is a world renouned herp vet with experience in chameleons as are a few other vets mentioned on the forums in Cali and Florida.

I honestly think a "less qualified" vet in your area combined with the knowledge and help from a more qualified vet is a better option than taking a sick animal for a very very long ride. As I said. Most vets will and are very willing to learn about animals they do not normally see. If they are not willing or find it offensive or down grading then I do not think the vet is one to be dealing with.

LOL!!! That was a hell of a rant Although, Laurie comes to mind and I hope you read this and or anyone else having problems that are far away from a vet who has experience with your type of lizard.

I remember reading on a few sites that talk about finding a qualified vet in your area. They mentioned if a vet has no experience with your animal but are more than willing to learn then they also have the potential to be the person to go to when a problem arises. I guess the ego of the person will decide, but I am going to start going to the herp vet in my city. He has general reptile knowledge and is also enthusiastic about learning more about chameleons and listening to a keeper who has experience. It seems much more realistic to me to take the animal 15 minutes down the road instead of a 3 hour round trip or more and also more of a chance for me to learn more about the animals I keep.

Edit: I do however think that the keeper needs to have a good understanding and experience, with the certain animals, to come up with/suggest opinions on a diagnosis with another vet. Lets face it. There are not many vets who have a good amount of experience with chameleons and it is hard for some people to travel the distance to get to those vets.

Edit number two, LOL!! Besides letting the OP know that there are options when dealing with un experienced vet for your animal. When quarantining an animal always take care of your "normal" troop first and then taking care of the newer ones will help with not cross contaminating. Along with standard hygiene practices. Wash hands and use a new set of rubber gloves for each animal, separate hydrating equipment, food bins etc. The more you use separate "tools" the better chance you have to not cross contaminate.

 

[ijmccollum]

Wow cainschams, that was quite the rant! But well worth the read.

I have to say though, you give a whole new perspective to the term anthropomorphism!!! LMSAAO.

It is all so wrong....just ask the crocks.

 

[jojackson]

"Crikey!"

This is perhaps the best 'photo-like' tattoo Ive seen.

Sorry Mate, OT. Hows the lizard today?

 

[ijmccollum]

No worries mate.

The bluey is doing well. Lays under the bask on slate rock. There are still a few mites but I ain't giving up -- those bugs have got to go! I think they are hanging gout around the eye/ear or nose. Can't really spray there.

Has been chowing on Ca++ suplemented greens and boiled egg today.

Cheeeze, the nails are like spikes. Even Pete doesn't tear me up like that, of course he is more docile.

Will be taking a trip to a local vet this week. Yes fecals are standard, it's the respiratory/poss infection that I want done right. More than likely they will hit it with a standard antibiotic -- I just want to make sure it is right.