Black Colouring on Veiled Chameleon

loc

New Member
I’ve only had my chameleon for a couple of months and all has been going well. Recently, over the past few days he has always been a dark colour; sometimes with black colouring present. Even though nothing has changed in his environment, diet or temperature. What could be causing this? and how could i possibly reduce the stress or whatever may be the cause?
 
I’ve only had my chameleon for a couple of months and all has been going well. Recently, over the past few days he has always been a dark colour; sometimes with black colouring present. Even though nothing has changed in his environment, diet or temperature. What could be causing this? and how could i possibly reduce the stress or whatever may be the cause?
Strange as mine is doing the same thing and is off her feeding. I'm thinking she maybe getting ready to shed or lay eggs.
 
He is only a couple of months old and i’ve started him in a smaller enclosure but he will be upgrading. He is usually a solid, light green but this is the colour he has been lately. He has just finished shedding, could this play a factor in it? I am fairly new to chameleons and would love any advice or suggestions. Thanks for the help.
 

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Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Chameleon info:
-Veiled chameleon, Male, about 2 months, has been in my care for about 1 month.

-Handled about once a week. (while cleaning enclosure, sometimes for feeding.)

-His diet mainly consists of crickets. He is fed once in the morning, once during the evening. Usually he consumes about 3-5 of them during each feeding. They are gut loaded by having a piece of apple or carrot placed in with them.

-Zoo med's repti calcium (without D3), along with zoo med's reptivite vitamins are given to him daily. While exoterra's calcium with D3 is given to him about once a week.

-For watering, I use a mister that comes on for 30 seconds every 2 hours. I spray the leaves in between the time the mister goes off occasionally as well. I do not see him drinking very often.

-His feces are dark brown and have a soft consistency. He has never been tested for parasites.

-He was purchased from a breeder as a baby so there is minimal history.


Cage info:
-The cage is completely screen. it is 16" x 16" x 30". Will eventually be upgrading to one much larger than this.

-For lighting, the brand used is zoo med. It is a kit with tropical UVB and heat lighting. I use a 60 watt daylight blue reptile bulb, along with a fluorescent 13 watt bulb. I keep these on in the day for about 10-12 hours.

-I measure the temps with digital thermometers. I have one where his basking spot is and one near the bottom. The bottom temp lies around 80 degrees while the top lies around 90-95 degrees. The lowest overnight temp is 75-80.

-Humidity levels lie around 50 percent. I have attached a shower curtain to the left and back side of his cage to trap in humidity. i believe the mister adds some as well. It is measured with a hygrometer.

-The plants used are plastic.

-The cage is located in a room that is quiet and undisturbed. It is not near any fans or vents or traffic. Although there is a dehumidifier outside of the room. but the door always remains shut. As of now the cage is on the floor so the height is only 30" from the top to the floor.

-Located in Canada and tends to have cooler temperatures and climate.

Current problem:
-His colouring has suddenly went from a solid light green to a dark green, brown and black.
 
Chameleon info:
-Veiled chameleon, Male, about 2 months, has been in my care for about 1 month.

-Handled about once a week. (while cleaning enclosure, sometimes for feeding.)

-His diet mainly consists of crickets. He is fed once in the morning, once during the evening. Usually he consumes about 3-5 of them during each feeding. They are gut loaded by having a piece of apple or carrot placed in with them.

-Zoo med's repti calcium (without D3), along with zoo med's reptivite vitamins are given to him daily. While exoterra's calcium with D3 is given to him about once a week.

-For watering, I use a mister that comes on for 30 seconds every 2 hours. I spray the leaves in between the time the mister goes off occasionally as well. I do not see him drinking very often.

-His feces are dark brown and have a soft consistency. He has never been tested for parasites.

-He was purchased from a breeder as a baby so there is minimal history.


Cage info:
-The cage is completely screen. it is 16" x 16" x 30". Will eventually be upgrading to one much larger than this.

-For lighting, the brand used is zoo med. It is a kit with tropical UVB and heat lighting. I use a 60 watt daylight blue reptile bulb, along with a fluorescent 13 watt bulb. I keep these on in the day for about 10-12 hours.

-I measure the temps with digital thermometers. I have one where his basking spot is and one near the bottom. The bottom temp lies around 80 degrees while the top lies around 90-95 degrees. The lowest overnight temp is 75-80.

-Humidity levels lie around 50 percent. I have attached a shower curtain to the left and back side of his cage to trap in humidity. i believe the mister adds some as well. It is measured with a hygrometer.

-The plants used are plastic.

-The cage is located in a room that is quiet and undisturbed. It is not near any fans or vents or traffic. Although there is a dehumidifier outside of the room. but the door always remains shut. As of now the cage is on the floor so the height is only 30" from the top to the floor.

-Located in Canada and tends to have cooler temperatures and climate.

Current problem:
-His colouring has suddenly went from a solid light green to a dark green, brown and black.



Chameleon info:
-Veiled chameleon, Male, about 2 months, has been in my care for about 1 month. Um he dosen't look two months. I would say somewhere around 6 months

-Handled about once a week. (while cleaning enclosure, sometimes for feeding.)

-His diet mainly consists of crickets. He is fed once in the morning, once during the evening. Usually he consumes about 3-5 of them during each feeding. They are gut loaded by having a piece of apple or carrot placed in with them.

-Zoo med's repti calcium (without D3), along with zoo med's reptivite vitamins are given to him daily. While exoterra's calcium with D3 is given to him about once a week. Multivitamin twice a week. D3 twice a week. calcium every day except that one day of the week where you give him either multivit or d3

-For watering, I use a mister that comes on for 30 seconds every 2 hours. I spray the leaves in between the time the mister goes off occasionally as well. I do not see him drinking very often.

-His feces are dark brown and have a soft consistency. He has never been tested for parasites. Good idea to get a fecal done.

-He was purchased from a breeder as a baby so there is minimal history.


Cage info:
-The cage is completely screen. it is 16" x 16" x 30". Will eventually be upgrading to one much larger than this. Upgrade asap he's older than you think.

-For lighting, the brand used is zoo med. It is a kit with tropical UVB and heat lighting. I use a 60 watt daylight blue reptile bulb, along with a fluorescent 13 watt bulb. I keep these on in the day for about 10-12 hours. Ok so he needs a t5ho linear uvb fixture. The heat lamp is fine it's the uvb

-I measure the temps with digital thermometers. I have one where his basking spot is and one near the bottom. The bottom temp lies around 80 degrees while the top lies around 90-95 degrees. The lowest overnight temp is 75-80. 90-95 too hot!! I keep mine high 70s to low 80's basking spot

-Humidity levels lie around 50 percent. I have attached a shower curtain to the left and back side of his cage to trap in humidity. i believe the mister adds some as well. It is measured with a hygrometer.

-The plants used are plastic. Get live plants. Veiled chameleons sometimes take bites out of plants and if he bites a plastic plant the microplastics are no good etc.

-The cage is located in a room that is quiet and undisturbed. It is not near any fans or vents or traffic. Although there is a dehumidifier outside of the room. but the door always remains shut. As of now the cage is on the floor so the height is only 30" from the top to the floor.

-Located in Canada and tends to have cooler temperatures and climate.

Current problem:
-His colouring has suddenly went from a solid light green to a dark green, brown and black.
 
Chameleon info:
-Veiled chameleon, Male, about 2 months, has been in my care for about 1 month. Um he dosen't look two months. I would say somewhere around 6 months

-Handled about once a week. (while cleaning enclosure, sometimes for feeding.)

-His diet mainly consists of crickets. He is fed once in the morning, once during the evening. Usually he consumes about 3-5 of them during each feeding. They are gut loaded by having a piece of apple or carrot placed in with them.

-Zoo med's repti calcium (without D3), along with zoo med's reptivite vitamins are given to him daily. While exoterra's calcium with D3 is given to him about once a week. Multivitamin twice a week. D3 twice a week. calcium every day except that one day of the week where you give him either multivit or d3

-For watering, I use a mister that comes on for 30 seconds every 2 hours. I spray the leaves in between the time the mister goes off occasionally as well. I do not see him drinking very often.

-His feces are dark brown and have a soft consistency. He has never been tested for parasites. Good idea to get a fecal done.

-He was purchased from a breeder as a baby so there is minimal history.


Cage info:
-The cage is completely screen. it is 16" x 16" x 30". Will eventually be upgrading to one much larger than this. Upgrade asap he's older than you think.

-For lighting, the brand used is zoo med. It is a kit with tropical UVB and heat lighting. I use a 60 watt daylight blue reptile bulb, along with a fluorescent 13 watt bulb. I keep these on in the day for about 10-12 hours. Ok so he needs a t5ho linear uvb fixture. The heat lamp is fine it's the uvb

-I measure the temps with digital thermometers. I have one where his basking spot is and one near the bottom. The bottom temp lies around 80 degrees while the top lies around 90-95 degrees. The lowest overnight temp is 75-80. 90-95 too hot!! I keep mine high 70s to low 80's basking spot

-Humidity levels lie around 50 percent. I have attached a shower curtain to the left and back side of his cage to trap in humidity. i believe the mister adds some as well. It is measured with a hygrometer.

-The plants used are plastic. Get live plants. Veiled chameleons sometimes take bites out of plants and if he bites a plastic plant the microplastics are no good etc.

-The cage is located in a room that is quiet and undisturbed. It is not near any fans or vents or traffic. Although there is a dehumidifier outside of the room. but the door always remains shut. As of now the cage is on the floor so the height is only 30" from the top to the floor.

-Located in Canada and tends to have cooler temperatures and climate.

Current problem:
-His colouring has suddenly went from a solid light green to a dark green, brown and black.

Oh wow I had purchased him through a pet store and they told me he was around that age. New to owning them so wasn’t sure what they look like at certain ages. Thanks for the help with everything, I will get right on all of that!
 
Multivitamin twice a week. D3 twice a week. calcium every day except that one day of the week where you give him either multivit or d3


This advice is absolutely wrong and I strongly suggest we ignore it except for the calcium, which is correct. Both multivitamins as well as vitamin D3 Both multivitamins as well as vitamin D3 has to be administered once in two weeks once in two weeks multiple times in a week multiple times in a week!!! If you will follow this advice your animal will be your animal will be overdosed overdosed by vitamin D3 (and other vitamins), which is highly toxic and will cause the collapse of the calcium metabolism resulting in heavy health problems such as MBD and Renal failure.
 
If you refer to the blackish colour of the flanks of your chameleon in your original concern, then it says nothing it is absolutely normal in the animals like this. You need to know that you have obtained are heavily inbred specimen are heavily inbred specimen which has an aberrant color pattern.
 
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If you refer to the blackish colour of the flanks of your chameleon in your original concern, then it says nothing it is absolutely normal in the animals like this. You need to know that you have obtained are heavily inbred specimen are heavily inbred specimen which has an aberrant color pattern.
So is this a health concern and is there anything I can do to improve it? Also the thing is that he hasn’t always been this colour. He is usually a light green but he has just changed into this colouring over the last couple of days.
 
So is this a health concern and is there anything I can do to improve it? Also the thing is that he hasn’t always been this colour. He is usually a light green but he has just changed into this colouring over the last couple of days.
Based whag I can see on the oic, whicb is rather unsharp, I confirm it is all OK and nothing to be concerned a kit

if yiu have concerns, please shoot a good lictire and asp
K soecifically
 
@loc There is much for you to learn but this is a wonderful link to learn tons of accurate info https://chameleonacademy.com/ Read through each section. It will tell you everything from how to set up a cage to their proper husbandry.

With the supplements as already said you received incorrect feedback. You want calcium with D3 two times a month and a multivitamin two times a month. If they are separate supplements then you would rotate these two week to week say on a Saturday. Then at all other feedings you want to use calcium without D3.
If you buy something like Reptivite with D3 then this would be a multivitamin and calcium with D3 combined. With this supplement you would only use it for a total of two times a month. So every other week at one feeding. Then all other feedings you would use calcium without D3.

I have gone through your help form. Please see my feedback in red bold and let us know if you have additional questions.

Chameleon info:
-Veiled chameleon, Male, about 2 months, has been in my care for about 1 month. Not 2 months old. Looks more like 4-5 months old IMO. But their genetics play into their size so really without a hatch date there is no way to be certain and everyone would just be guessing at his age.

-Handled about once a week. (while cleaning enclosure, sometimes for feeding.)

-His diet mainly consists of crickets. He is fed once in the morning, once during the evening. Usually he consumes about 3-5 of them during each feeding. They are gut loaded by having a piece of apple or carrot placed in with them. You will want to feed him in the morning so he has the day to digest. At this approximate age make sure he is getting about 10-12 feeders a day. This will change as he matures and you will want to continue to learn about this so he does not become obese as an adult. Gutload should be expanded on. I will add an image for this. Also adding ground bee pollen to the gutload is very healthy for the cham. Expanding the type of feeders is also good for them as it provides variety and different nutritional components.

-Zoo med's repti calcium (without D3), along with zoo med's reptivite vitamins are given to him daily. While exoterra's calcium with D3 is given to him about once a week. See feedback above... If you are using the pack of reptivite that came with the kit this does not disclose if it is with or without D3.

-For watering, I use a mister that comes on for 30 seconds every 2 hours. I spray the leaves in between the time the mister goes off occasionally as well. I do not see him drinking very often. Right now he is in a very bare cage. There are not live plants that hold the water on the leaves. Additionally they are shy drinkers.

-His feces are dark brown and have a soft consistency. He has never been tested for parasites. I recommend getting a fecal test done.

-He was purchased from a breeder as a baby so there is minimal history.


Cage info:
-The cage is completely screen. it is 16" x 16" x 30". Will eventually be upgrading to one much larger than this. will need a minimum of a 2x2x4ft enclosure.

-For lighting, the brand used is zoo med. It is a kit with tropical UVB and heat lighting. I use a 60 watt daylight blue reptile bulb, along with a fluorescent 13 watt bulb. I keep these on in the day for about 10-12 hours. So the UVB in this kit is a compact bulb and does not push the UVB far enough into the cage or wide enough. These are not recommended for Chams. You want a linear T5HO fixture with a 5.0 or 6% UVB bulb. Nothing stronger then that. Then basking should be 9 inches down. No closer or the UVI levels from the lighting will be too strong. The link I gave you goes into lighting with great depth.

-I measure the temps with digital thermometers. I have one where his basking spot is and one near the bottom. The bottom temp lies around 80 degrees while the top lies around 90-95 degrees. The lowest overnight temp is 75-80. This is extremely hot. Basking should be no hotter then 80 for him. If your digital reader has a probe and you are pulling hotter then that then the basking should be dropped farther away and or the fixture should be lifted up off the top. Also with 90-95 degree readings it means he is at a higher risk for a thermal burn... Do you keep your house that warm at night? Typically your going to get a drop in temp. I am wondering if your digital reader is giving you accurate temps. Ambient temps should be low to mid 70's during the day. then at night they need a temp drop.

-Humidity levels lie around 50 percent. I have attached a shower curtain to the left and back side of his cage to trap in humidity. i believe the mister adds some as well. It is measured with a hygrometer. 50 percent is on the high end... Veileds should be in the 30-50% max. You will want to remove the shower curtain off the side panel to allow for more airflow. Make sure the Hygrometer is not getting wet or it will give you false measurements.

-The plants used are plastic. These need to be changed over to live plants. Veileds will eat their plants. This is an impaction risk when they have plastic ones that they pull pieces off of.

-The cage is located in a room that is quiet and undisturbed. It is not near any fans or vents or traffic. Although there is a dehumidifier outside of the room. but the door always remains shut. As of now the cage is on the floor so the height is only 30" from the top to the floor. I suggest opening the door to get airflow... if your temps and humidity readings are accurate it is getting too hot and too humid from keeping it all shut.

-Located in Canada and tends to have cooler temperatures and climate.

Current problem:
-His colouring has suddenly went from a solid light green to a dark green, brown and black. Coloring is totally normal.

chameleon-food(1).jpg
chameleon-gutload.jpg
 
Both multivitamins as well as vitamin D3 Both multivitamins as well as vitamin D3 has to be administered once in two weeks once in two weeks multiple times in a week multiple times in a week!!!
can someon pls explain what this means?
 
can someon pls explain what this means?
You gave the incorrect info to the OP... Read what you wrote. You have to be extremely careful in what you type so that people do not get incorrect information that ends up killing their cham.
Multivitamin twice a week. D3 twice a week. calcium every day except that one day of the week where you give him either multivit or d3
 
This advice is absolutely wrong and I strongly suggest we ignore it except for the calcium, which is correct. Both multivitamins as well as vitamin D3 Both multivitamins as well as vitamin D3 has to be administered once in two weeks once in two weeks multiple times in a week multiple times in a week!!! If you will follow this advice your animal will be your animal will be overdosed overdosed by vitamin D3 (and other vitamins), which is highly toxic and will cause the collapse of the calcium metabolism resulting in heavy health problems such as MBD and Renal failure.
@PetNcs @Beman @loc oh sh*t sorry I honestly thought i typed multivitamin twice a month d3 twice a month. my bad @loc yes you have to use multivitamin and d3 each twice a MONTH. rlly sorry guys my bad
 
You will want to feed him in the morning so he has the day to digest. At this approximate age make sure he is getting about 10-12 feeders a day.

please no offense, bur ai disagree

the recommendation of feeding in tje mirning jas NO esginale and is misleading. Rhere is NO evidence that would support it shluld bw done like rhat. Xhamelekns in tje wild eat whole dažy and actually the majority of feeders rhey by definktion eat during afternokn hours.

limiting number if feeders is a total mess avain. You do jit talm about siue, kind, nutritional value but limit nimber if feeders? This is a solutely comfusing and wrong. There is ni ragionale again for limitingneither the number nor the volume if food for jubeniles. Theťy are eating machines and est as much as they xan. With no ill effects.
 
tes. I recommend getting a fecal test done.

i protest
Itnjas no ratio ale
Doing a fecal rwst fir a scalto e ju enile is useless stress and taking monežy from tje poclet for nothing
I jave seen VETs caking results and misi teroreti v amd cjri g nin existing sguff

Nonsense, di not do it, do not recommend it umless rhere are any indications of suboptimal health
 
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