@loc There is much for you to learn but this is a wonderful link to learn tons of accurate info
https://chameleonacademy.com/ Read through each section. It will tell you everything from how to set up a cage to their proper husbandry.
With the supplements as already said you received incorrect feedback. You want calcium with D3 two times a month and a multivitamin two times a month. If they are separate supplements then you would rotate these two week to week say on a Saturday. Then at all other feedings you want to use calcium without D3.
If you buy something like Reptivite with D3 then this would be a multivitamin and calcium with D3 combined. With this supplement you would only use it for a total of two times a month. So every other week at one feeding. Then all other feedings you would use calcium without D3.
I have gone through your help form. Please see my feedback in red bold and let us know if you have additional questions.
Chameleon info:
-Veiled chameleon, Male, about 2 months, has been in my care for about 1 month.
Not 2 months old. Looks more like 4-5 months old IMO. But their genetics play into their size so really without a hatch date there is no way to be certain and everyone would just be guessing at his age.
-Handled about once a week. (while cleaning enclosure, sometimes for feeding.)
-His diet mainly consists of crickets. He is fed once in the morning, once during the evening. Usually he consumes about 3-5 of them during each feeding. They are gut loaded by having a piece of apple or carrot placed in with them.
You will want to feed him in the morning so he has the day to digest. At this approximate age make sure he is getting about 10-12 feeders a day. This will change as he matures and you will want to continue to learn about this so he does not become obese as an adult. Gutload should be expanded on. I will add an image for this. Also adding ground bee pollen to the gutload is very healthy for the cham. Expanding the type of feeders is also good for them as it provides variety and different nutritional components.
-Zoo med's repti calcium (without D3), along with zoo med's reptivite vitamins are given to him daily. While exoterra's calcium with D3 is given to him about once a week.
See feedback above... If you are using the pack of reptivite that came with the kit this does not disclose if it is with or without D3.
-For watering, I use a mister that comes on for 30 seconds every 2 hours. I spray the leaves in between the time the mister goes off occasionally as well. I do not see him drinking very often.
Right now he is in a very bare cage. There are not live plants that hold the water on the leaves. Additionally they are shy drinkers.
-His feces are dark brown and have a soft consistency. He has never been tested for parasites.
I recommend getting a fecal test done.
-He was purchased from a breeder as a baby so there is minimal history.
Cage info:
-The cage is completely screen. it is 16" x 16" x 30". Will eventually be upgrading to one much larger than this.
will need a minimum of a 2x2x4ft enclosure.
-For lighting, the brand used is zoo med. It is a kit with tropical UVB and heat lighting. I use a 60 watt daylight blue reptile bulb, along with a fluorescent 13 watt bulb. I keep these on in the day for about 10-12 hours.
So the UVB in this kit is a compact bulb and does not push the UVB far enough into the cage or wide enough. These are not recommended for Chams. You want a linear T5HO fixture with a 5.0 or 6% UVB bulb. Nothing stronger then that. Then basking should be 9 inches down. No closer or the UVI levels from the lighting will be too strong. The link I gave you goes into lighting with great depth.
-I measure the temps with digital thermometers. I have one where his basking spot is and one near the bottom. The bottom temp lies around 80 degrees while the top lies around 90-95 degrees. The lowest overnight temp is 75-80.
This is extremely hot. Basking should be no hotter then 80 for him. If your digital reader has a probe and you are pulling hotter then that then the basking should be dropped farther away and or the fixture should be lifted up off the top. Also with 90-95 degree readings it means he is at a higher risk for a thermal burn... Do you keep your house that warm at night? Typically your going to get a drop in temp. I am wondering if your digital reader is giving you accurate temps. Ambient temps should be low to mid 70's during the day. then at night they need a temp drop.
-Humidity levels lie around 50 percent. I have attached a shower curtain to the left and back side of his cage to trap in humidity. i believe the mister adds some as well. It is measured with a hygrometer.
50 percent is on the high end... Veileds should be in the 30-50% max. You will want to remove the shower curtain off the side panel to allow for more airflow. Make sure the Hygrometer is not getting wet or it will give you false measurements.
-The plants used are plastic.
These need to be changed over to live plants. Veileds will eat their plants. This is an impaction risk when they have plastic ones that they pull pieces off of.
-The cage is located in a room that is quiet and undisturbed. It is not near any fans or vents or traffic. Although there is a dehumidifier outside of the room. but the door always remains shut. As of now the cage is on the floor so the height is only 30" from the top to the floor.
I suggest opening the door to get airflow... if your temps and humidity readings are accurate it is getting too hot and too humid from keeping it all shut.
-Located in Canada and tends to have cooler temperatures and climate.
Current problem:
-His colouring has suddenly went from a solid light green to a dark green, brown and black.
Coloring is totally normal.
