Why is my veiled chameleon always brown?

That Cham Man

New Member
So I’ve had my new male veiled chameleon for a week, and during the day he’s always brown. I’m a little worried, but maybe it’s just him trying to get warmer? The temps during the day are always above 70F, usually around 73F. His basking area temps are usually around 83-87F. I have been giving him space to let him settle and I only go near him to feed or mist or to check temps. Last night after his lights went off I went to go mist him and he ran to me and started climbing all over me he didn’t seem defensive while doing this. Other than his dark color he seems to be pretty healthy to me. His poop and urates seem hydrated and he has been devouring almost anything I feed him. He don’t seem to like BSFL though, he will eat everything but those lol. When he’s asleep he is bright green the entire night. Is this a possibility he’s sick? Like I said he seems healthy in every other way so I don’t think he’s sick and I don’t think it would be because he’s too cold. I plan on getting him a fecal test done next week to make sure he don’t have any underlying parasites. Maybe I’m just too worried and this is a completely normal thing, but all the research I’ve done they should only be brown during the part of the day where they are basking or if they are stressed or sick. I could be wrong, that’s why I came here. If you have any idea what’s causing this or if it’s just a normal thing please let me know so I can stop stressing or get him what he needs lol. Sorry I forgot to mention his age, he is 4 to 5 months old.

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(He was basking in this picture until I scared him)

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( he looks like this most of the day)


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( He is sleeping in both of these pics)
 
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This is his current setup but I made a few adjustments. I removed the water bowl at the bottom and added a parlor palm down there. I also removed the one fake plant and put in new live plants. His cage size is 18x18x36, I know it’s too small for his age I messed up but I already have another cage on the way for him and I ordered a few dragon strand accessories.
 
View attachment 348005
This is his current setup but I made a few adjustments. I removed the water bowl at the bottom and added a parlor palm down there. I also removed the one fake plant and put in new live plants. His cage size is 18x18x36, I know it’s too small for his age I messed up but I already have another cage on the way for him and I ordered a few dragon strand accessories
 
View attachment 348005
This is his current setup but I made a few adjustments. I removed the water bowl at the bottom and added a parlor palm down there. I also removed the one fake plant and put in new live plants. His cage size is 18x18x36, I know it’s too small for his age I messed up but I already have another cage on the way for him and I ordered a few dragon strand accessories.
Can you post a pic of how it is right now? Normally something is off in the enclosure when they are coming out to you on their own or not showing greens. So it is important for us to see what the enclosure looks like right now.

If you have not done a full husbandry review I would recommend that as well.
 
Can you post a pic of how it is right now? Normally something is off in the enclosure when they are coming out to you on their own or not showing greens. So it is important for us to see what the enclosure looks like right now.

If you have not done a full husbandry review I would recommend that as well.
I have done a husbandry review but here’s a pic of what it looks like now.
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Ok because of where you got him I am going to suggest you get a fecal test done before you move him into the larger enclosure.

What type of heat bulb are you using? You will want to watch basking temps. The hottest you want to see is 85 but your looking at a range of 78-82 at the branch because it will be hotter where he rises up off the branch.

Yes the T5HO you want a 24 inch with either a 5.0 or 6% Uvb bulb. You will also want to look into plant lighting. I like the jungle dawn led bars.

For night temps... Watch those. I personally keep mine no lower than 60. They can have a hard time warming back up the next day. This can throw off their appetite and activity level.

What is he seeing out the window? I have never put mine near a window for a few reasons. You have less control of ambient temps in all seasons due the the window and if the window is open seeing stuff moving out side even just a bird can throw them off. I have even seen where instead of basking under their lights they will go to the light from the window which does nothing for them. So I would be very cautious with this.

Typically seeing these colors has more to do with the following. Temps too cold or too hot. Lack of UVB. Something external is causing them to be darker because they are more fearful. And I have seen it with illness as well. Additionally it may just be his age muted tans can be common with young veileds.

Based on your boys size this is not in the range of a 3 month old. Your looking at a 5-7 month old easily.

Please note Veileds in my experience are not all gorgeous all the time. What you saw on the site you ordered him off of was a fired up male. Fired up and resting colors are very different. For example my male will range between pale muted greens as his resting colors. His fired up colors are anything from yellows to teal colors. When he was younger resting colors were more muted tans and greens. Out of all my males Beman has always been the dullest with resting colors.

Resting

https://www.chameleonforums.com/media/beman8-13-20_2.52149/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/media/1-10-19-jpg.49175/

fired up.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/media/9-19-21.53962/

https://www.chameleonforums.com/media/7-26-20-beman-is-feeling-fierce.52012/


And as a juvenile that has not come fully into his colors

https://www.chameleonforums.com/media/12-21-18-jpg.49173/

https://www.chameleonforums.com/media/11-21-18-jpg.49171/
 
I knew he wouldn’t look like the pictures from where I got him, I’m honestly not even sure if that’s actually his sire it could just be a picture of any chameleon. I don’t mind if he’s just going to look more dull, I’m just concerned if it’s due to something I’m doing wrong. I’m going to go buy a new basking bulb in a few hours I’ll go to the store because right now it’s 100w and it does get too hot at times but I’ve been making sure to watch it until I get a new one so he hasn’t been burning up or anything. When I get his new enclosure I’m also going to move it from the window. But for now I don’t think the window would be causing too much of an issue. There is no heat or cold coming from it that is changing the temps in the cage and you might be right about him trying to bask in the sunlight so I will just leave the window closed at all times. It’s usually only open a few hours a day because I figured it might benefit the plants until I can get a led bar. When the window is closed he can’t see out of it at all and no light comes in.
 
I will do it but I’m curious why it matters if I get his fecal test done before or after I move him to his new enclosure. Also what’s the highest you would let the temps get at night I never let them go above 70 and never under 55. I can also start making it a little warmer during the night around 65 like you said should be easy. It’s usually 60-65F.
 
My guys resting colors are pretty muted and dark. Even the pics @Beman shared are a bit more colorful than my guy. He tends to stay dark green and brown, unless he is sleeping or angry 😂 here’s a couple of him with his relaxed colors and his pajamas.
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I think he looks beautiful, love the picture with his tounge poking out lol. I hope I t’s just the same situation with him and he’s just going to be like that. I’m worried I’m doing something wrong so I’m going to start keeping my window closed all the time and lower basking bulb wattage to see if I notice any changes.
 
I will do it but I’m curious why it matters if I get his fecal test done before or after I move him to his new enclosure. Also what’s the highest you would let the temps get at night I never let them go above 70 and never under 55. I can also start making it a little warmer during the night around 65 like you said should be easy. It’s usually 60-65F.
Because every person I have helped that bought from the place you did, their cham had parasites that had to be treated for. So rather than contaminating the larger cage along with everything new you put into it you keep them where they are and you do not move anything from the current cage to the new one. If they come back with a parasite load if it is the one I have helped others with it is not the easiest to clean for so the smaller cage will make it easier for you. And then you have not contaminated the larger cage.

I keep Beman at a night low of 60 but not colder than that. It just takes a lot longer for them to warm up the colder you let it get so I avoid dropping below 60.
 
I will do it but I’m curious why it matters if I get his fecal test done before or after I move him to his new enclosure. Also what’s the highest you would let the temps get at night I never let them go above 70 and never under 55. I can also start making it a little warmer during the night around 65 like you said should be easy. It’s usually 60-65F.
Because if he has parasites you can treat them in the current cage and not have to disinfect the new cage
 
You said…”Location - I live in Illinois where we have all 4 seasons and the annual relative humidity is 60%”…I would recommend moving the cage away from the window…the “draft“ from it could cause health issues for your chameleon. Even if you don’t feel a draft from the window…believe me, the chameleon can.
 
You said…”Location - I live in Illinois where we have all 4 seasons and the annual relative humidity is 60%”…I would recommend moving the cage away from the window…the “draft“ from it could cause health issues for your chameleon. Even if you don’t feel a draft from the window…believe me, the chameleon can.
There needs to be Informative icon reaction. :)
 
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