Bent Casque?
- Thread starter Syn
- Start date
Syn
Avid Member
He's almost always at the top of the cage, the only time he isn't is when I'm spraying down his cage.
Let me copy and paste this for you, and edit some of it.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Look above
Lighting - reptisun 5.0 and a house light..
Temperature - 70-85, sometimes gets up to 90 in basking.
Humidity - 50-60, digital thermometer/hygrometer
Plants - Dracaena, 2 ficus.
Location - Bedroom, low traffic.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Veiled.
Handling - To clean and check him out for any abnormalities.
Feeding - Crickets, Dubia, 4-5 dubia or 12 crickets.
Supplements - Calcium w/and w/o d3, minerall, herptivite, calcium every other day, w/d3 once a week, minerall replaces calcium once a week, herptivite every other week.
Watering - Drip cup and misting 2-3 times a day.
Fecal Description -Runny urates, solid poo.
History - Had some runny urates and runny poo lately, had a few hornworms a while back, but it's still runny, otherwise he is very healthy and very active.
Current Problem - Bent casque.
Let me copy and paste this for you, and edit some of it.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Look above
Lighting - reptisun 5.0 and a house light..
Temperature - 70-85, sometimes gets up to 90 in basking.
Humidity - 50-60, digital thermometer/hygrometer
Plants - Dracaena, 2 ficus.
Location - Bedroom, low traffic.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Veiled.
Handling - To clean and check him out for any abnormalities.
Feeding - Crickets, Dubia, 4-5 dubia or 12 crickets.
Supplements - Calcium w/and w/o d3, minerall, herptivite, calcium every other day, w/d3 once a week, minerall replaces calcium once a week, herptivite every other week.
Watering - Drip cup and misting 2-3 times a day.
Fecal Description -Runny urates, solid poo.
History - Had some runny urates and runny poo lately, had a few hornworms a while back, but it's still runny, otherwise he is very healthy and very active.
Current Problem - Bent casque.
veiledchamguy
Member
Syn how old is your veiled?
veiledchamguy
Member
Lets assume hes about a year. At and before 5-6 months I would say dusting everyday is appropriate, but when you reach a year I would suggest cutting the schedule in half ex... herptivite twice a month calcium to 1 time a week if you get my drift. Put into concern your feeders too and what they were gutloaded with and how their diet rapidly changes.
keep us updated.
IMHO you are giving it quite a bit of D3. I only use D3 twice a month.
It would be good if you knew what was being fed to the insects before you got them...especially if what they are fed contains phosphorous, D3 or preformed vitamin A. If it were me, I would get the insects a couple of days ahead of time and make sure I fed them a nutritious diet before they were fed to my chameleon.
It would be good if you knew what was being fed to the insects before you got them...especially if what they are fed contains phosphorous, D3 or preformed vitamin A. If it were me, I would get the insects a couple of days ahead of time and make sure I fed them a nutritious diet before they were fed to my chameleon.
There's preformed vitamin A and D3 in it which needs to be taken into consideration when you balance nutrients important in bone health. Here's what's in it...
http://www.petsmart.com/product/ind...ferralID=f33f634e-3786-11de-9f5b-000423c27407
http://www.petsmart.com/product/ind...ferralID=f33f634e-3786-11de-9f5b-000423c27407
Syn
Avid Member
I use my roaches more often than crickets.
What are you suggesting I do, because I don't have some sort of mathematical equation to do to make this perfect.
(In that case, what does kale, sweet potatoes, and carrots have in it(what I feed my crickets if I have leftover)?
Do I have to balance that into the equation?)
Crude protein (min.) 19.0%, crude fat (min.) 4%, crude fiber (max.) 9%, calcium (ca) (min.) 8%, calcium (ca) (max.) 9%, phosphorus (p) (min.) 0.6%, salt (nacl) (min.) 0.1%, salt (nacl) (max.) 1.1%, ash (max.) 22%, added minerals (max.) 22%.
So what does all of this mean? I have to cut off one dusting a year, or something?
Agh.
No rudeness meant, but would the flukers high calcium feed really have such an impact as to cause the casque to start bending, and only the casque to have MBD-like symptoms? He has a vice-grip like no other, no bending arms, and looks fine otherwise.
I'm sorry I'm just a bit worried and it's showing too much in my posts.
Thanks all for your help. Might schedule a vet visit if necessary.
What are you suggesting I do, because I don't have some sort of mathematical equation to do to make this perfect.
(In that case, what does kale, sweet potatoes, and carrots have in it(what I feed my crickets if I have leftover)?
Do I have to balance that into the equation?)
Crude protein (min.) 19.0%, crude fat (min.) 4%, crude fiber (max.) 9%, calcium (ca) (min.) 8%, calcium (ca) (max.) 9%, phosphorus (p) (min.) 0.6%, salt (nacl) (min.) 0.1%, salt (nacl) (max.) 1.1%, ash (max.) 22%, added minerals (max.) 22%.
So what does all of this mean? I have to cut off one dusting a year, or something?
Agh.
No rudeness meant, but would the flukers high calcium feed really have such an impact as to cause the casque to start bending, and only the casque to have MBD-like symptoms? He has a vice-grip like no other, no bending arms, and looks fine otherwise.
I'm sorry I'm just a bit worried and it's showing too much in my posts.
Thanks all for your help. Might schedule a vet visit if necessary.
Where to start??
I'm definitely not telling you to only supplement once a year. I don't know if the Fluker's could cause the problem or not on its own.
Like you and most other people, I have no magical equation for balancing the calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A. All I can tell you is that IMHO they need to be in balance because each one affects the other in some way. All I can tell you is that by keeping my veileds the way I have described many times on the forums they never seem to develop MBD and live quite long lives.....so I feel that things must be somewhat in balance. It took quite a bit of experience before I arrived at what I do.
I don't like using commercial products for feeding chameleons because IMHO its too hard to do the math to figure out what supplements I have to use to complete the balance. Unless you give a definite measure of the commercial feed to the insects and they eat it all, I don't think there is a way to control how much is in them when you feed them to the chameleon. Also...if its not you who is feeding the insects then you have no control over what changes the store makes in what is fed to the insects from day to day or week to week either.
You asked..."what does kale, sweet potatoes, and carrots have in it (what I feed my crickets if I have leftover)? Do I have to balance that into the equation?"...the source of vitamin A from greens and veggies is beta carotene and will not build up in the system...so you don't have to worry about that. There is no D3 in them either. There is calcium and phosphorous...which is why we use the veggies and greens that have a good ratio in them.
All of what I do for my chameleons is from what I have learned from others or experienced with them myself. If what I do works for a species, then I don't change it. If I feel there is something that could be better...improve their health or longevity, then I make changes.
I wish I could be of more help and give you that magical formula.
I have to sign off for now...gotta water my geckos and change the waters in my turtle cages.
I'm definitely not telling you to only supplement once a year. I don't know if the Fluker's could cause the problem or not on its own.
Like you and most other people, I have no magical equation for balancing the calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A. All I can tell you is that IMHO they need to be in balance because each one affects the other in some way. All I can tell you is that by keeping my veileds the way I have described many times on the forums they never seem to develop MBD and live quite long lives.....so I feel that things must be somewhat in balance. It took quite a bit of experience before I arrived at what I do.
I don't like using commercial products for feeding chameleons because IMHO its too hard to do the math to figure out what supplements I have to use to complete the balance. Unless you give a definite measure of the commercial feed to the insects and they eat it all, I don't think there is a way to control how much is in them when you feed them to the chameleon. Also...if its not you who is feeding the insects then you have no control over what changes the store makes in what is fed to the insects from day to day or week to week either.
You asked..."what does kale, sweet potatoes, and carrots have in it (what I feed my crickets if I have leftover)? Do I have to balance that into the equation?"...the source of vitamin A from greens and veggies is beta carotene and will not build up in the system...so you don't have to worry about that. There is no D3 in them either. There is calcium and phosphorous...which is why we use the veggies and greens that have a good ratio in them.
All of what I do for my chameleons is from what I have learned from others or experienced with them myself. If what I do works for a species, then I don't change it. If I feel there is something that could be better...improve their health or longevity, then I make changes.
I wish I could be of more help and give you that magical formula.
I have to sign off for now...gotta water my geckos and change the waters in my turtle cages.
Syn
Avid Member
Thanks for your help, too bad there isn't some magical equation, even if I don't like math that much, hah!
The store is cheap, they just feed flukers, I've never seen them change to the orange cubes, but once I do, I'm not buying them from there anymore. Too much extra junk in that stuff.
I guess I'll just feed off my dubia from now on and hope that he gets better.
Thanks.
The store is cheap, they just feed flukers, I've never seen them change to the orange cubes, but once I do, I'm not buying them from there anymore. Too much extra junk in that stuff.
I guess I'll just feed off my dubia from now on and hope that he gets better.
Thanks.
If you adjust your supplements so that you use a phos.-free calcium at most feedings, phos.-free calcium with D3 twice a month and vitamins with a beta carotene source of vitamin A twice a month and gutload the insects for a few days before you feed them to the chameleon it might be all it needs. Why give up on the crickets?? (The casque won't "unbend" though.)
