Another Reverse Osmosis question...

Chameleon Nation said:
Very easy. Some R/O systems come with a combination of 3/8" and 1/4" tubing and fittings. The one that I have I specified that I needed 3/8" fittings. Sorry for the fuzzy pic. The clear 3/8" tubing runs from the storage tank back into the R/O system. The 3/8" black tubing then runs from the fitting into the pump and out to the nozzles. We run about 75 nozzles on a 5 gallon tank. Be sure to get a solenoid valve to place on your misting line. The pressure from the R/O system will force water right through your pump and out the open end nozzles. Hook the solenoid valve up on the same timer as your pump.
Click to expand...

Why do you have T fittings on the filter cans? Is that so you can bypass the middle filter can? :confused:
 
Klemins said:
You mean I can bypass the pump, due to the pressure of the holding tank? As I said, I'm not very technologically savvy, so it'll take a bit of research for me. Thanks
Click to expand...

This all depends on the misting nozzles you operate. A lot of nozzles have check valves in the nozzles. This will require more pressure overcome the valve. Most of the reserve tanks are only charged to 30-40PSI (if that).

Most RO systems are meant for dummies.... hook it up and leave it... never notice how much is going down the drain or if its even producing RO efficiently. There are a lot of variables that tie in to making an RO membrane operate efficiently. They are simple but sometimes require more effort than others. The key to efficient RO is water temp, water pressure, back pressure and water prep (pre-filtering).

You need to know what kind of water pressure your house has and what kind of nozzles your using before expecting your system to mist the cages without a pump.
 
One way to increase the pressure in the holding tank is to use a high pressure auto shut off valve. The pressure in the tank will be about 80% of your tap water pressure.

Standard auto shut off valves shut off at about 66% of tap water pressure.

Russ
 
summoner12 said:
Yeah that is like the one in the Watt's system except the one you linked is 110VAC

Nice valve.... just don't over tighten or wrap too much teflon tape on the fittings...... those valve bocies crack pretty easily... not that I would know :rolleyes::p:eek::eek:
Click to expand...

Is that the part that leaks on my system now?
 
ROComp2_0001.jpg


I had removed the fittings that were installed and then was putting it back together with some new fittings. In doing so I cracked the valve body, Ithink I had too much teflon tape on the fitting threads. It didn't leak so we left it.

Let me know if it is or starts to get worse from when I broke it Elisa.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Wisto&Co
What water to use in MistKing
2
Replies
24
Views
3K
RollReptile
R
S
New Keeper Questions...
Replies
3
Views
820
ScalesbyKyn
S
Archangel
Reverse Osmosis System Recommendation
Replies
9
Views
3K
Pickle-cham
Pickle-cham
Xmplary97
New Chameleon with Eye Issues
Replies
5
Views
1K
MissSkittles
MissSkittles
AngryGremlin
Looking for advice for multiple questions
Replies
3
Views
788
AngryGremlin
AngryGremlin
Back
Top Bottom