Advice Needed. Heating Feeders Tubs

Sticktongue

Avid Member
Hey yall. Alright, it’s time for me to take my feeder care to the next level. In all my years, I’ve generally only fed crickets (purchases, never bred my own nor do I plan to now), I’ve had successful Dubia colonies, which in the past I used heating pads but with all the regulator controls now that’s not possible. Then just bought silkworms and hornworms every so often to mix it up.

My home is generally cold.. winter time, we drop the house to 66 at night, and it is 68-70 during the day. Hot months (our summers are high 90s to low 100s outside) we are generally 70-72 during the day, and 68 at night.

I think I get some early die off from my crickets from colder temps. Thinking about how to increase their tub temperature.

I also, am starting a bean beetle culture. From what I read, they should also be warmer, 70-80…

Ok for the actual question. What’re y’all doing to get your feeders temps up. Heat tape? If so, anyone got pictures and examples of how y’all accomplish it?
 
I’ve always taped a heat mat hooked up to a thermostat on the side of my roach bins when it gets cold. This year though, I’ve brought them in from the garage and have a nano ceramic heat emitter above them. It makes it easier when I go to hatch out some silkworm eggs…I can just put them under the same heat source.
 
I’ve always taped a heat mat hooked up to a thermostat on the side of my roach bins when it gets cold. This year though, I’ve brought them in from the garage and have a nano ceramic heat emitter above them. It makes it easier when I go to hatch out some silkworm eggs…I can just put them under the same heat source.
I actually like that idea.. would be easy enough to have a bin with roaches, and also have 3-4 bean beetle cultures in the tub benefiting from the same heat lamp.
 
Well I use a 28-32 gallon tub which I covered the outside with one of those insulation aluminum blankets that I cut up and taped on to make it dark then I use a heating pad on half of the bottom covered with a towel so it won’t be too hot. I hatch the eggs in a tub about half that size and keep it on the other half of the heating blanket. When they get big enough I start catching them and transferring them to the bigger bin. That seemed to work good for me when I had three mouths to feed.
 
Well I use a 28-32 gallon tub which I covered the outside with one of those insulation aluminum blankets that I cut up and taped on to make it dark then I use a heating pad on half of the bottom covered with a towel so it won’t be too hot. I hatch the eggs in a tub about half that size and keep it on the other half of the heating blanket. When they get big enough I start catching them and transferring them to the bigger bin. That seemed to work good for me when I had three mouths to feed.
What heating pad? I am yet to find one that doesn’t auto shut off after like 30 min max?
 
lol the one I have used forever! I didn’t know they even made them with auto shut off! That’s how old I am. Maybe you can find an older one at a goodwill.
 
Found this one on Amazon. Would that work?

MARUNDA Pet Heating Pad,Cat Dog Electric Pet Heating Pad Indoor Waterproof,Auto Constant Temperature, Chew Resistant Steel Cord (Blue, S-12" x 16")​


Amazon's Choice
 
I actually like that idea.. would be easy enough to have a bin with roaches, and also have 3-4 bean beetle cultures in the tub benefiting from the same heat lamp.
Here’s a pic. I have a cheap expandable insert thing to fit over the top edge. IMG_6893.jpeg
 
I have learned that a lot of human regulations do apply if it’s for an animal. Like antibiotics. Now if I need amoxicillin, I have to go to a doctor get a script and go to a pharmacy. Well having saltwater tanks taught me that I can get 250mg amoxicillin tablets for the fish tank with no prescription needed. It’s not regulated but it’s the same thing. Now that little in-site has helped a lot of people and pets I have known thru the years.
 
I have learned that a lot of human regulations do apply if it’s for an animal. Like antibiotics. Now if I need amoxicillin, I have to go to a doctor get a script and go to a pharmacy. Well having saltwater tanks taught me that I can get 250mg amoxicillin tablets for the fish tank with no prescription needed. It’s not regulated but it’s the same thing. Now that little in-site has helped a lot of people and pets I have known thru the years.
Oops should have said do not apply
 
I dont think the crickets die from lack of heat at 65F. More likely they will die if they are kept damp or dirty or without food and water. Banded crickets seem much hardier for me, too. They live an incredibly long time. most insects grow faster at higher temperature. Esp when hatching out crickets higher heat makes the process so much faster
 
I like the ultratherm heat pads. And I think any heat source you use for animals should have thermostat on it to avoid overheating
 
I like banded crickets as well. Cricket life cycle is 90 days. It’s. True heat does make them grow faster. But you need heat at the egg to small size or they will die during the winter. Thats why I have a separate nursery where I put the container with the soil and eggs for them to hatch and get bigger. That I keep heated. A major die off is usually due to over crowding. Also they will eat their dead. Once the males start singing, they are mating. When the middle spike on the females is about an inch long, she will use it to make a hole in the dirt and lay her eggs then she will die not long after that.
 
I use waterproof pet heating pads. These are ones that uses 12-24v dc to the pad, and have a temperature setting, not a L/M/H setting. I just pop them under the bins and set them to 45c, which makes the bin about 30c.
 
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