When will they stop growing?

Jevin

Chameleon Enthusiast
Just wondering when female Veileds stop growing really fast because mines about 4 to 6 inches fron her nose to her vent at only 6 months.
Thanks,

Jevin
 
Heres some pics of her taken today
 

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They actually never stop growing.
The speed at which they develop in the first year is largely effected by how much food they are getting.
How much are you feeding her?
How many months old is she?

-Brad
 
I feed every day otherwise she becomes cranky and hides away in her cage and her basking area in ner large cage will only breach 90 degrees when the sun is shining. I really dont like seeing her cranky because she flash her markings jet black and she never refuses food.:rolleyes:I wouldn't kmnow for sure if she'd get cranky but if im late for feeding her she'll get cranky so I'd hate to see her if I "missed" a regular feeding
 
I feed every day otherwise she becomes cranky and hides away in her cage and her basking area in ner large cage will only breach 90 degrees when the sun is shining. I really dont like seeing her cranky because she flash her markings jet black and she never refuses food.:rolleyes:I wouldn't kmnow for sure if she'd get cranky but if im late for feeding her she'll get cranky so I'd hate to see her if I "missed" a regular feeding

Well, you need to start or you're going to have a female that doesn't live very long and cycles eggs way too often.
5 to 7 crickets every other day.

-Brad
 
Lol Jevin, are you thinking 'veiled-Zilla'? :) reptiles growth continues throughout life but slows considerably after maturation. As someone else mentioned, growth in the first year of life is much accellerated, by this time most reptiles acheive adult size or close to (lizards anyway).
Veiled chams do have a phenomonly fast rate of growth as compared to other lizard species, and ofcourse, like any other species, this is largely dependant on available food.

Its well pointed out that with either sex a balance should be acheived lest growth overtake skeletal developement.
With females in particular, care should be taken with dietry intake, since the more avail food, the more the animal will eat and in turn, the larger the production of clutches, which will effectively shorten the life of your female.
 
I see but the size of crickets she is fed are about 1/4-3/8ths of an inch and she only gets about 10 of those a day. the ones that are left over we put back into the main cricket container. the cricketrs though aren't even truely "gut loaded" because I do not have sufficent funds at this time.
 
I dont think anyone can accurately say your cham is too heavy, or vice versa unless you can weigh it, roughly measure it (nose to cloaca) and post up. BUT..
It wont hurt your animal to go without food here and there a day, even if it seems to sulk. Reptiles are designed for low food intake, maximum energy extraction, since they get most of their energy from the sun. Only coddled captive reptiles eat every day. :)
 
she is five inches from her nose to the base of her tail and not at all fat looking if you look at the photos I posted earlier. If possible could you post a pic of an overweight veiled chamemleon. and just a little extra info is that she rarely ever stops moving when in her cage yet when being held she'll hardly move at all.
 
Then shes certainly big enough not to be bothered by missing a feed every other day or so. According to the Female owners here, its a good idea to include a deep tub of soil for her now (leave in the cage like furniture) because she is approaching maturity and will at some point develope a clutch of eggs.
 
I'm hopefully going to get a tub for her egg laying soon but she looks skinny when compared to other female veileds, in my opinion.
 
At about 6 months I cut my female to 6 to 8 feeders, depending on the size, everyother day and kept her temps between 80 and 82.
 
It's not about being "fat"
It's about creating conditions that are too good all the time and tricking their bodies into cycling eggs three or four times a year when in their natural environment it happens once a year or not at all.
Better figure out the gut load too and are you dusting with calcium?

-Brad
 
yes I dust with calcium on a daily basis and the supplements about three times a month and her weight at the current moment is 44 grams at 5" in length.
 
I learnt the hard way with feeding a female too much - she was my first chamm, and, at the time I didn't know better! I got Lily at 6 months of age and she would eat a lot of food. She laid her first infertile clutch of 104 eggs at 14 months old and her second clutch of 102 infertiles at 18 months old. I learnt that you have to 'be cruel to be kind' and that chams aren't like 'normal' pets when it comes to feeding. In fact, they can go through 'hunger strikes' where they refuse any food for days at a time. I would worry a great deal when Lily did this at first, but there was no need to worry - they won't starve if they don't eat for one day - she went or a week or more without eating several times. My lovely Lily was a friendly girl, a real sweetheart, and when she died at 19 months I was totally gutted - she was a joy to own, bless her. I now realise that these huge clutches contributed to her death. If only I had fed her less then maybe she would still be here....

I now have a new baby cham - Amy - who is between 4 and 5 months old, and she too loves her food. BUT, I am going to do things differently this time. She is still very small, but when the time comes I will be reducing her food intake as suggested on here. It will be hard not to feel 'mean' by restricting her food, but when you've lost a much loved chameleon like Lily you realise that things can and should be done differently. I am determined that Amy will not lay such huge clutches as Lily did, and hopefully she will live longer because of it.
 
yes but what about her weight is it okay?
Istart feeding like you guys have said very soon
 
I wouldnt think 44 grams was overweight no.

It's not about being "fat"
It's about creating conditions that are too good all the time and tricking their bodies into cycling eggs three or four times a year when in their natural environment it happens once a year or not at all.

Can you be a little more descriptive, a little less cryptic Brad, perhaps provide a guide for the care of females SPECIFICALLY outlining exactly what 'conditions' will help avoid the female cycling as often? This seems rather vague, leaving the only avail info about feeding, which may result in a person underfeeding instead with the intent of preventing large clutches.

Perhaps you could point out the relevant areas of the famous Kitty blog, as regards to the above?

What conditions are not 'too good' in captivity? This is all but forcefully encouraged here in everyway, feeders, suppliments, abundant water, perfect temps anmd humidity etc etc. This 'coddling' effect Ive spoken of here before and nobody agreed! :)
 
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