Ghostbirb
Chameleon Enthusiast
I’m situated in Colorado, so it’s not a very humid place here.
What should I decorate the cage with?
- Thread starter Ghostbirb
- Start date
Klyde O'Scope
Chameleon Enthusiast
Gotcha. It makes sense to me to take one step at a time, and see what kinds of RH numbers you can get. If you can hit your targets with a hybrid enclosure, live plants, & misting schedule, great. If not, a fogger may be necessary.
Ghostbirb
Chameleon Enthusiast
i'm currently going to work on the essentials, like the correct UVB, nest box and the right vitamins, then work my way up to a nice new cage
Ghostbirb
Chameleon Enthusiast
Im about to get the materials an I already have a box. Ill take the carpet out as soon as I have it set up.
Flick boy
Chameleon Enthusiast
All I can say is if she is ready to lay the less disruption( like no disruption) until she does the better , she will want peace and quiet, now I have not read this total thread but she does look chunky , and although you want to get things sorted, if she is gravid this is not the time imo , the most important thing is she lays
Ghostbirb
Chameleon Enthusiast
So I’ll set the box up and leave her be
Ghostbirb
Chameleon Enthusiast
I’m having trouble finding the right bulbs for this. Do you by any chance have a Amazon link or something?You're going to need 3 kinds of lighting, which IMO should be considered separately (i.e. don't try to combine any in the same luminaire).
UVB—As already mentioned, a Reptisun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%—running full width of the enclosure.
Basking—mainly to provide heat during the day (No lights of any kind should be used at night).
Best bulbs for basking lights are (in order of preference):
A clamp light fixture works well for basking lights, as they're easily aimable.
- Household incandescent bulb (not LED)
- Incandescent flood light (not LED and not spot light)
- Halogen flood light (not spot light)
Basking lamps are best installed/mounted at an angle to produce a temperature gradient rather than a hot-spot.
Plant light—Many folks here are opting for this Sansi 70W plant light. It can be used in your current enclosure, and in a 24" x 24" x 48"H enclosure. Sansi coupons
I don't think you necessarily need to scrap the dual dome—maybe just leave one side empty.
Ghostbirb
Chameleon Enthusiast
A little but more would probably be great. I got a lay bin that was recommended though a link, it is on the smaller size but it fits in the cage i I hope will be good enough for her.
Just installed it, gave it wet sand and rearranged + covered part of the cage to give her more hiding spots and security.
I am also trying to find a household incandescent lightbulb without LED, or something similar for a basking spot, but so far I haven’t found one. I’m hoping to find a heat light soon because the current bad ones I have only produce light and it’s chiller here.
Flick boy
Chameleon Enthusiast
Ghostbirb
Chameleon Enthusiast
The temp overall resides between 66°f and 70°f
I also made a homemade dripper
I don’t have a drainage system yet, so excess water drips into the lay box, hopefully to keep some sand wet as well. Anymore advise is welcome, there is so much more for me to learn
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Is she still in the tiny enclosure? Is so, she may be going to the bottom to try and find more space. From the pics you posted I’m not seeing gravid coloring. Usually their colors and patterns are very pronounced and they darken. However, each chameleon is unique. I’m hoping she isn’t gravid and won’t be until she’s had at least a couple of months of proper care. With mbd, she may have difficulty laying and need veterinary help. Here’s my ‘laying 101’ ramble though.
I’ve already told you about setting up a good lay bin. You’ll want that to become a permanent part of her enclosure to avoid guessing when she needs it. Just before laying, her appetite may decrease, color becomes dark and she may become a bit restless, looking more to the bottom of the enclosure. She’ll find the bin when she needs it…or she may prefer to use a potted plant. Once she enters her bin and starts digging, she’ll need total privacy. It’s best to cover the visible part of the enclosure (usually just lower half) with a light sheet. You can make small holes to peek thru. It’s very important she doesn’t see anyone though or she may stop digging and could become eggbound. You don’t want to worry about feeding her, you can use your dripper or mister on it’s usual schedule and keep your lights on their usual schedule. At night, she may sleep in her tunnel. She may dig several holes until she’s happy with one. When she’s finished digging, she’ll turn around so her face is out of the tunnel and lay her eggs. When done, she’ll carefully and thoroughly cover all of her holes in and return to her basking branch, looking dirty and much thinner. The whole process may take 1-2 days. Once she’s back at her basking area, you’ll want to feed and hydrate her well for a couple of days. I love giving some hornworms and silkworms at this time for the hydration. When she’s settled and is back to her usual within a day or so, you’ll want to remove and count the eggs. Hopefully there will be only 20/less than 30. Since she’s never been mated the eggs are infertile and can be tossed out.
After a couple of days of feeding her well, you’ll want to start feeding her 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week and be diligent about her basking temp not going any higher than 80. We do this to try to reduce egg production and laying, both which are very hard on our ladies and shorten their lives greatly.
Signs that all is not going according to plan and she may need veterinary care - eyes closed during the day, lethargy, staying low in the enclosure all the time/not basking, not eating/drinking, not completing her laying (not covering her holes, still looking lumpy/plump, etc) and days later returning to dig again and anything else that you just feel doesn’t seem right. Always go with your gut feelings. It’s better to take an animal to the vet and have them find nothing than risk possible illness.
I think I’ve covered it all, but I’m not fully caffeinated yet and may have forgotten something.
I’ve already told you about setting up a good lay bin. You’ll want that to become a permanent part of her enclosure to avoid guessing when she needs it. Just before laying, her appetite may decrease, color becomes dark and she may become a bit restless, looking more to the bottom of the enclosure. She’ll find the bin when she needs it…or she may prefer to use a potted plant. Once she enters her bin and starts digging, she’ll need total privacy. It’s best to cover the visible part of the enclosure (usually just lower half) with a light sheet. You can make small holes to peek thru. It’s very important she doesn’t see anyone though or she may stop digging and could become eggbound. You don’t want to worry about feeding her, you can use your dripper or mister on it’s usual schedule and keep your lights on their usual schedule. At night, she may sleep in her tunnel. She may dig several holes until she’s happy with one. When she’s finished digging, she’ll turn around so her face is out of the tunnel and lay her eggs. When done, she’ll carefully and thoroughly cover all of her holes in and return to her basking branch, looking dirty and much thinner. The whole process may take 1-2 days. Once she’s back at her basking area, you’ll want to feed and hydrate her well for a couple of days. I love giving some hornworms and silkworms at this time for the hydration. When she’s settled and is back to her usual within a day or so, you’ll want to remove and count the eggs. Hopefully there will be only 20/less than 30. Since she’s never been mated the eggs are infertile and can be tossed out.
After a couple of days of feeding her well, you’ll want to start feeding her 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week and be diligent about her basking temp not going any higher than 80. We do this to try to reduce egg production and laying, both which are very hard on our ladies and shorten their lives greatly.
Signs that all is not going according to plan and she may need veterinary care - eyes closed during the day, lethargy, staying low in the enclosure all the time/not basking, not eating/drinking, not completing her laying (not covering her holes, still looking lumpy/plump, etc) and days later returning to dig again and anything else that you just feel doesn’t seem right. Always go with your gut feelings. It’s better to take an animal to the vet and have them find nothing than risk possible illness.
I think I’ve covered it all, but I’m not fully caffeinated yet and may have forgotten something.
Ghostbirb
Chameleon Enthusiast
Thank you! I ment to say for the cage that yes it’s 1 by 1 food, but I messed up in saying that it’s actually 2ish feet tall, I hoping her current set up will work for a little while as I’m able to order a larger cage and buy/grow the correct plants. She does stay still a lot, and I’m working on getting her the proper lights. She’s been drinking well and almost always talking cricket from the tweezer things (also planing on getting a full throttle feeder.)
I hope she’s not gravid right now, I want her to be heather before she lays eggs.
Oh and another question, since she’s only about 4 to 5 months old, will she gain a little more patterns as she grows? Or will she stay the lighter green with light side stripes and pink feet?
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
She will eventually (maybe soon?) start to show some beautiful teal and mustard yellow or orange colors and some patterns when she reaches her receptive phase, meaning ready for mating. Along with the colors she will probably become very active and restless. I think of it as they get all dressed up and pretty and then go looking for a boy.Thank you! I ment to say for the cage that yes it’s 1 by 1 food, but I messed up in saying that it’s actually 2ish feet tall, I hoping her current set up will work for a little while as I’m able to order a larger cage and buy/grow the correct plants. She does stay still a lot, and I’m working on getting her the proper lights. She’s been drinking well and almost always talking cricket from the tweezer things (also planing on getting a full throttle feeder.)
I hope she’s not gravid right now, I want her to be heather before she lays eggs.
Oh and another question, since she’s only about 4 to 5 months old, will she gain a little more patterns as she grows? Or will she stay the lighter green with light side stripes and pink feet?
Once she reaches this stage, she is mature enough to lay eggs and that can occur as soon as a few weeks after. The receptive phase can last from 1-several weeks.
CrisBruns
Established Member
GE 41032 Incandescent Globe Soft White Bulbs, 75 Watts, 4/Pack https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FZYLF50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0Q7WPGRKD4MHRQGMERTB
Ghostbirb
Chameleon Enthusiast
@MissSkittles
I thought I’d move my light questions to my own question thread. I ordered some other lights but they won’t get here until Tuesday at the least.
So I was wondering if these would be suitable until then? And how far away should the basking branch be if it is suitable?
I thought I’d move my light questions to my own question thread. I ordered some other lights but they won’t get here until Tuesday at the least.
So I was wondering if these would be suitable until then? And how far away should the basking branch be if it is suitable?
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