Veiled chameleon not growing

Yes if your hood is a T5HO 24 inch then you will want to get a T5 22inch bulb. For a veiled I would go with a 12% in arcadia or a10.0 zoomed. Put basking about 7-8 inches from the light.
 
Update: so I counted the bsfl and the superworms, he did not eat a single superworm but took 8 bsfl.

Yes if your hood is a T5HO 24 inch then you will want to get a T5 22inch bulb. For a veiled I would go with a 12% in arcadia or a10.0 zoomed. Put basking about 7-8 inches from the light.

I read that veiled chameleons are in Ferguson zone 3. And I saw that for zoo med, only reptisun T8 10.0 and T5 5.0 is in the zone 3 range at 8". T5 10.0 on the other hand is between 3 and 4 at 8".
 
Update: so I counted the bsfl and the superworms, he did not eat a single superworm but took 8 bsfl.



I read that veiled chameleons are in Ferguson zone 3. And I saw that for zoo med, only reptisun T8 10.0 and T5 5.0 is in the zone 3 range at 8". T5 10.0 on the other hand is between 3 and 4 at 8".
Right so you want a 3-4 UVI range... :) So your UVI is going to decrease the farther away from the bulb.... With a 5.0 or a 6% you have to get closer to the bulb which you do not want. The only for sure way to know your levels is with a solarmeter 6.5. I will tell you that when I was running at first a 6% in my quad fixture that is a T5. I was barely getting a 1 UVI at 7 inches down. :( Now using the 12% I am getting a 3-4 range between 7-8 inches down.
 
Great news! Just 3 hrs before the appointment, I was trying again to search through the foliage for any signs of poop, expecting only to see urates. Then I saw it! A cluster of brownish black and white on one of the leaves of my begonia rex. =)

I then extract it and put it in a tiny container, got a bit of cham poop on my finger but that's okay lol.
 

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Update:

No signs of parasite eggs are found in his stool. No sign of any other problems found while the vet is examining him. Except that his tail and his lips area has a slight sign of MBD. She suggested to put him in a smaller enclosure or increase the UVB. I guess T8 5.0 really isn't enough. I did find someone selling T5 10.0 here, gonna get it tomorrow or the day after.

But she said while a lack of calcium might contribute to the bones unable to grow but she can't say for sure that MBD of this minute scale is the main factor of his abnormally slow growth. So it's genetics after all?
 
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I have a question. How does a uvb bulb lose its effectiveness? Through long usage? Or will it start to lose effectiveness once it's being used for the first time regardless of how often you switch it on?
 
Update: so I counted the bsfl and the superworms, he did not eat a single superworm but took 8 bsfl.



I read that veiled chameleons are in Ferguson zone 3. And I saw that for zoo med, only reptisun T8 10.0 and T5 5.0 is in the zone 3 range at 8". T5 10.0 on the other hand is between 3 and 4 at 8".


Zone 2: UVI 0.7 to 1.0 (Mostly partial sun/Occasional full sun baskers) This is a small range that is very close to Zone 1, but species in this zone will occasionally venture out into full sunlight for short periods of time. Examples include Green Anoles (Anolis carolinensis), Water Dragons (Physignathus cocincinus), Day Geckos (Phelsuma species), Skinks, Box Turtles (Terrapene species), Boa Constrictors, Ball Pythons, Garter and Ribbon Snakes (Thamnophis species), and most species of diurnal Colubrid snakes (like Kings Snakes and Gopher Snakes). This zone is also recommended for Old World Chameleons (Panther Chameleons, Jackson’s Chameleons, and other Chameleo species). If you’re unsure what the appropriate zone is for a given species, Zone 2 can be used as a safe and effective level that will prevent the onset of metabolic bone disease or nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism (NSHP).
 
Right so you want a 3-4 UVI range... :) So your UVI is going to decrease the farther away from the bulb.... With a 5.0 or a 6% you have to get closer to the bulb which you do not want. The only for sure way to know your levels is with a solarmeter 6.5. I will tell you that when I was running at first a 6% in my quad fixture that is a T5. I was barely getting a 1 UVI at 7 inches down. :( Now using the 12% I am getting a 3-4 range between 7-8 inches down.


DO YOU SMELL WHATS COOKIN?

ZONE 3 (moderate range): 80 Watt: 6-16 inches (20-40 cm) 100 Watt: 10-20 inches (25-50 cm) 160 Watt: 16-26 inches (40-66 cm) UVI 1.0 to 2.6 (Mostly full sun/Occasional partial sun baskers) Zone 3 covers a fairly broad range and includes many species commonly kept as pets. These temperate, tropical, and sub-tropical species will bask in full sun early in the day or early afternoon. During mid-day, they may be found basking when conditions are partly cloudy. This zone is appropriate for most species of aquatic turtles and tortoises. Many of the small spiny lizards of the genus Sceloporus fall into this zone, as do Monitors and Tegus, Blue-tongued Skinks, Green Iguanas (Iguana iguana), and Curly-tailed Lizards of the genus Leiocephalus. With Zone 3 and above, it is VERY IMPORTANT to provide a UVB gradient down to Zone 1 UVB levels so that reptiles can photoregulate and adjust their UVB exposure as needed. Failure to provide a UVB gradient can result in illness, eye & skin damage, or even death. Always provide a shelter for reptiles to retreat completely from any light and UVB exposure.
 
I have a question. How does a uvb bulb lose its effectiveness? Through long usage? Or will it start to lose effectiveness once it's being used for the first time regardless of how often you switch it on?
Hey hun. Here is the link. to a video that will show you the UVI from different bulbs. But yes the do loose effectiveness over time as well. So a zoomed typically you want to replace every 8 months and an arcadia bulb you want to replace every 12 months.

I would recommend a T5ho 10.0 or 12% arcadia with basking approx 7-8 inches below. Fixture set directly on the screen top.

Sorry to hear of the diagnosis. I was leaning toward a genetic issue.
 
DO YOU SMELL WHATS COOKIN?

ZONE 3 (moderate range): 80 Watt: 6-16 inches (20-40 cm) 100 Watt: 10-20 inches (25-50 cm) 160 Watt: 16-26 inches (40-66 cm) UVI 1.0 to 2.6 (Mostly full sun/Occasional partial sun baskers) Zone 3 covers a fairly broad range and includes many species commonly kept as pets. These temperate, tropical, and sub-tropical species will bask in full sun early in the day or early afternoon. During mid-day, they may be found basking when conditions are partly cloudy. This zone is appropriate for most species of aquatic turtles and tortoises. Many of the small spiny lizards of the genus Sceloporus fall into this zone, as do Monitors and Tegus, Blue-tongued Skinks, Green Iguanas (Iguana iguana), and Curly-tailed Lizards of the genus Leiocephalus. With Zone 3 and above, it is VERY IMPORTANT to provide a UVB gradient down to Zone 1 UVB levels so that reptiles can photoregulate and adjust their UVB exposure as needed. Failure to provide a UVB gradient can result in illness, eye & skin damage, or even death. Always provide a shelter for reptiles to retreat completely from any light and UVB exposure.
I know I understand this... I am basing my info off what I have read and heard from Arcadia and Bill strand. I think it is important that everyone understand that they have to have multiple gradients as well. If a cham cage is set up properly with live plants and lots of foliage they will have the gradients the cham needs.
This is why I always include that the only way to know for sure what level your getting is to have a solarmeter 6.5.
 
Hey hun. Here is the link. to a video that will show you the UVI from different bulbs. But yes the do loose effectiveness over time as well. So a zoomed typically you want to replace every 8 months and an arcadia bulb you want to replace every 12 months.

I would recommend a T5ho 10.0 or 12% arcadia with basking approx 7-8 inches below. Fixture set directly on the screen top.

Sorry to hear of the diagnosis. I was leaning toward a genetic issue.


So if someone has a used T5ho 10.0 and has only switch it on daily for 2 weeks at about 11 months ago, it's now useless?

To the rest of you, thanks for all of the advice. Now I have a problem. Zoo med and Arcadia are not available locally. I can get it on eBay but it takes about two to three weeks to reach me. There is someone with a brand new reptisun T5 5.0. Nobody sells T5 10.0 and nobody sells Arcadia products here.

Should I get the T5 5.0 or order Arcadia 12%/10.0 on eBay and wait for two to three weeks?
 
So if someone has a used T5ho 10.0 and has only switch it on daily for 2 weeks at about 11 months ago, it's now useless?

To the rest of you, thanks for all of the advice. Now I have a problem. Zoo med and Arcadia are not available locally. I can get it on eBay but it takes about two to three weeks to reach me. There is someone with a brand new reptisun T5 5.0. Nobody sells T5 10.0 and nobody sells Arcadia products here.

Should I get the T5 5.0 or order Arcadia 12%/10.0 on eBay and wait for two to three weeks?
Where do you live hun? I would still order a replacement bulb because you never know if they are being honest about its use.
 
Where do you live hun? I would still order a replacement bulb because you never know if they are being honest about its use.

South East Asia near the equator, the UVI here is crazy high, 8-11. So I'll use the 5.0 first for now?
 
South East Asia near the equator, the UVI here is crazy high, 8-11. So I'll use the 5.0 first for now?
But is he inside most of the time? If so your going to need the T5HO 10.0 or 12% arcadia. The 5.0 in a T5 is going to be better then what you are currently using with the T8 though.
 
But is he inside most of the time? If so your going to need the T5HO 10.0 or 12% arcadia. The 5.0 in a T5 is going to be better then what you are currently using with the T8 though.

Yes he's inside. I have to go to work in the morning 8am so I can't really let him out into the sun. I think the T5 5.0 is the best option at the moment. As for the slow growth, I guess it can't be helped.
 
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