Supplementing Jacksons

[Kaden]

I am hopefully going to be getting my first chameleon (a jacksons) sometime in November. I have already been researching quite a bit in the last few weeks and I think I have their basic care down. However, I still am not sure how often to supplement as it seems that everyone does it differently. I plan to feed red runner roaches as I already have an established colony. The roaches have roach chow available 24/7 and I offer them organic carrots once a week. However, I will start adding more variation in there diet next week by giving them more fruits and vegetables. I was thinking about giving the chameleon calcium without d3 once a week, and multivitamins and calcium with d3 every 6 weeks. Does this sound about right? Also, how many roaches should be fed per feeding? Thanks!

 

[Lennoncham]

I do t know much about Jacksons care but this is from the caresheet. Supplementation:
Calcium and other vitamins are very important to your chameleon's health. Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. As a montane species (native to higher altitudes) Jackson's have decreased supplementation requirements compared to tropical species due to metabolism differences. Use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) twice a week, a multivitamin once a month, and calcium with D3 once a month.

Here is a link to the care sheet if you haven't read it yet. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/

 

[JacksJill]

I don't want to confuse you but I do supplement differently. I use Repashy Calcium Plus LoD ~3 times a week in the months I can get mine outside regularly. In the winter I use Repashy Calcium Plus instead. I dust VERY lightly.
I don't know how many roaches you should feed because I'm guessing you are getting a Xanth and they are larger than what I have. I also don't know what size/age you are getting.
At the bottom of the care sheet mentioned above is a link "Jackson's in Captivity" it is full of good info. Don't miss it.

 

[Bush baby]

I would not recommend a jacksons as a first time chameleon keeper. They can be tricky to keep healthy for longer than a year for someone who does not have prior chameleon keeping experience, due to their sensitivity to supplementation, hydration and humidity requirements. Please reconsider getting a Veiled or a Panther. They are much hardier species.

 

[Kaden]

I would not recommend a jacksons as a first time chameleon keeper. They can be tricky to keep healthy for longer than a year for someone who does not have prior chameleon keeping experience, due to their sensitivity to supplementation, hydration and humidity requirements. Please reconsider getting a Veiled or a Panther. They are much hardier species.

I have heard that Jacksons are more of an intermediate chameleon but I figured as long as I do enough research I would be able to handle one. For hydration and humidity I am planning on having a dripper running all day, a reptifogger coming on many times throughout the day, and I would mist the enclosure for around 5 minutes 3 times a day. This would only be temporary as I plan on installing a mistking system about a month after I receive the chameleon. As for supplementation well I'm trying to figure that out now which is why I have created this thread. If you don't mind can you go more in depth of why they're harder to keep than other chameleons just so I can make sure I know what I'm getting myself into and am positive that I can give it everything it needs. Also do you think I would be able to keep one happy and healthy as long as I do the proper research and preparations because Im definitely not the type of person that likes getting an animal that has a low chance of thriving. Thanks!

 

[Remkon]

I would not recommend a jacksons as a first time chameleon keeper. They can be tricky to keep healthy for longer than a year for someone who does not have prior chameleon keeping experience, due to their sensitivity to supplementation, hydration and humidity requirements. Please reconsider getting a Veiled or a Panther. They are much hardier species.

Imo Xantholophus is doable as a beginner species. Care is pretty much the same as a panther, just less supplements, lower temps and more misting.

In the end it's the caretaker that will make his husbandry a success or a failure. If @Kaden is serious about his husbandry I don't see why he could not keep a Xanth.

 

[Bush baby]

I have heard that Jacksons are more of an intermediate chameleon but I figured as long as I do enough research I would be able to handle one. For hydration and humidity I am planning on having a dripper running all day, a reptifogger coming on many times throughout the day, and I would mist the enclosure for around 5 minutes 3 times a day. This would only be temporary as I plan on installing a mistking system about a month after I receive the chameleon. As for supplementation well I'm trying to figure that out now which is why I have created this thread. If you don't mind can you go more in depth of why they're harder to keep than other chameleons just so I can make sure I know what I'm getting myself into and am positive that I can give it everything it needs. Also do you think I would be able to keep one happy and healthy as long as I do the proper research and preparations because Im definitely not the type of person that likes getting an animal that has a low chance of thriving. Thanks!

I don't want to discourage you from getting a Jackson's I just wanted you to be aware that there are easier species for a beginner. Jacksons are my all time favorite specie. It was the first chameleon I got more than 20 years ago, and I made many mistakes in the beginning.

It looks like you have the hydration needs covered, and are aware of their humidity needs.

The most important things I have found with keeping Jacksons healthy, is strict gut loading of their feeders, minimal supplementation and exposing them to natural UV.

Gut loading - It has been my experience that Jacksons don't eat as much food as Veileds or Panthers. This may be due to their slower montane metabolism, where they thrive on cooler temps. That means you have to make every feeder that they are given count. They can quickly become vitamin deficient because they are not eating the same amount of food as their warmer climate counterparts, so every feeder they get needs to be primed.

Invest in a good 'dry gut load' grain like Cricket Crack, Bug Buffet, etc. along with a dark leafy vegetable i.e. Collard, Kale, Mustard, etc. along with one fruit. Stick to this and you'll optimize the nutritional content of your feeder bugs.


Supplementation - I personally only give my Jacksons PLAIN calcium twice a week (via dusting a super worm. The dark green leafy veggies and the dry gut load will supply a good amount of calcium, but dusting twice a week will act as a good safety net. I only dust with a multi-vitamin once a month. If your gut-loading regiment is good and you stick with it, the vitamin supplementation acts imply as a safety net. As far as calcium WITH D3 is concerned....


Natural UV - whenever you can, exposure your Cham to natural sunlight. I take mine outside twice a week for a few hours. The UV bulbs in the enclosure cannot compete with the benefits of the suns UV. I live in Maryland, and the only time I give my Cham calcium WITH D3 is during the months I cannot take him outside (between the months of Nov - March); during those months I dust a super worm with calcium WITH D3 once a month. Anymore, and your risk over-dosing.


Hope this info helps. My 3 main feeders are crickets, super worms and snails. I personally think crickets are a much more superior feeder than roaches (see post below), but to each his/her own.

 

[Bush baby]

I personally think that crickets are superior to roaches.

Here's why:

Gut load
1) I've notice that even after crickets are brought home after being purchased and you dump them into a container in order to gut load them, they immediately start feeding on whatever food item you have set aside for them. In other words, they seem un-phased by the 'trauma' of being scoop up from their current home (the pet store) transported via plastics bag for as long as several hours, shaken around, then dumped into a completely different environment. It's as though they are programmed to feed, no matter what. This is what makes them superior to roaches. Roaches, i've found, take time to settle in before they will feed. Crickets are eating machines which makes for the perfect gut load vehicle.


Free-range
2) I free-range, so after i've gut loaded my crickets in a separate container, i dust them and empty about a dozen of them into my chams enclosure. I do this because most of the chams i've had rarely cup feed. I leave a small amount of food, for the ones my cham doesn't eat immediately, in the cage bottom, so the crix won't nibble on my cham at night. You cannot free-range roaches because they are great at hiding, and are nocturnal, un-like crickets who are both active during the day when your cham will see them and at night.


Movement
3) Crickets are far more lively during the day when your cham will see them. Even if you cup feed, roaches tend to crawl into a corner or one side of the cup and remain still. Not good for predator who's feeding response is based on it's preys movement.


Impaction
4) I've notice that when i feed my chams crickets as the primary part of their diet, they have a bowel movement everyday, whereas when i've fed them roaches, it's gone from them defecating daily, to every other day, to sometimes once a week. From this i must conclude that a roach must be much harder for a chameleon to digest. I've even had to treat some of my past chams for impaction (using oil) when i had them on a roach diet. The situation remedy itself when i switched back to a cricket diet.


Those are the reasons why i personally don't use roaches. I'll give them to my cham once in a while; but as i just stated, i've found crix just have more attributes that benefit the chameleon itself, as opposed to roaches, who seem to be a popular feeder not so much because they benefit the chameleon itself but because it's better for the owner, i.e they're cleaner, make less noise, produce less smell, etc…


…to each his/her own.

 

[Kaden]

I personally think that crickets are superior to roaches.

Here's why:

Gut load
1) I've notice that even after crickets are brought home after being purchased and you dump them into a container in order to gut load them, they immediately start feeding on whatever food item you have set aside for them. In other words, they seem un-phased by the 'trauma' of being scoop up from their current home (the pet store) transported via plastics bag for as long as several hours, shaken around, then dumped into a completely different environment. It's as though they are programmed to feed, no matter what. This is what makes them superior to roaches. Roaches, i've found, take time to settle in before they will feed. Crickets are eating machines which makes for the perfect gut load vehicle.


Free-range
2) I free-range, so after i've gut loaded my crickets in a separate container, i dust them and empty about a dozen of them into my chams enclosure. I do this because most of the chams i've had rarely cup feed. I leave a small amount of food, for the ones my cham doesn't eat immediately, in the cage bottom, so the crix won't nibble on my cham at night. You cannot free-range roaches because they are great at hiding, and are nocturnal, un-like crickets who are both active during the day when your cham will see them and at night.


Movement
3) Crickets are far more lively during the day when your cham will see them. Even if you cup feed, roaches tend to crawl into a corner or one side of the cup and remain still. Not good for predator who's feeding response is based on it's preys movement.


Impaction
4) I've notice that when i feed my chams crickets as the primary part of their diet, they have a bowel movement everyday, whereas when i've fed them roaches, it's gone from them defecating daily, to every other day, to sometimes once a week. From this i must conclude that a roach must be much harder for a chameleon to digest. I've even had to treat some of my past chams for impaction (using oil) when i had them on a roach diet. The situation remedy itself when i switched back to a cricket diet.


Those are the reasons why i personally don't use roaches. I'll give them to my cham once in a while; but as i just stated, i've found crix just have more attributes that benefit the chameleon itself, as opposed to roaches, who seem to be a popular feeder not so much because they benefit the chameleon itself but because it's better for the owner, i.e they're cleaner, make less noise, produce less smell, etc…


…to each his/her own.

I don't know what type of roach you were using, but the qualities you described seem to represent dubias. I have found red runners to be quite the opposite of dubias. For one, they are always on the move. That's the main reason I chose to get them. Unlike dubias that will hide or bury in the substrate like you said, red runners tend to run around the enclosure which triggers a feeding response. Also since I have a colony already, I won't have to worry about them being hesitant to eat from transportation. As for the impaction part, that did get me a bit worried so if I decide to feed crickets that will definitely be the reason. However, I have always been told that roaches are better than crickets due to them having much more meat as opposed to crickets who are mostly exoskeleton. Also, red runners do have a fairly soft exoskeleton compared to some other roaches. If I do decide to feed red runners is the diet I'm giving them sufficient? I currently give them collard greens multiple times throughout the week, carrots about once a week, apples once a week, and bananas a few times a week. The fruits and vegetables change every week but the layout is about the same. I also make sure they have access to roach chow 24/7 but I'm planning on taking that out of their diet and instead give them boiled eggs for protein. When you give them calcium do you mean that you dust all of the superworms for that day or just one superworm. And if it is just the one, is it lightly or heavily dusted. Also, when you take them outside do you put them on a tree? If so can you trust that theyll stay there for a few minutes if you leave or do you need to be there the whole time. Thanks for the help!

 

[Bush baby]

I don't know what type of roach you were using, but the qualities you described seem to represent dubias. I have found red runners to be quite the opposite of dubias. For one, they are always on the move. That's the main reason I chose to get them. Unlike dubias that will hide or bury in the substrate like you said, red runners tend to run around the enclosure which triggers a feeding response. Also since I have a colony already, I won't have to worry about them being hesitant to eat from transportation. As for the impaction part, that did get me a bit worried so if I decide to feed crickets that will definitely be the reason. However, I have always been told that roaches are better than crickets due to them having much more meat as opposed to crickets who are mostly exoskeleton. Also, red runners do have a fairly soft exoskeleton compared to some other roaches. If I do decide to feed red runners is the diet I'm giving them sufficient? I currently give them collard greens multiple times throughout the week, carrots about once a week, apples once a week, and bananas a few times a week. The fruits and vegetables change every week but the layout is about the same. I also make sure they have access to roach chow 24/7 but I'm planning on taking that out of their diet and instead give them boiled eggs for protein. When you give them calcium do you mean that you dust all of the superworms for that day or just one superworm. And if it is just the one, is it lightly or heavily dusted. Also, when you take them outside do you put them on a tree? If so can you trust that theyll stay there for a few minutes if you leave or do you need to be there the whole time. Thanks for the help!

1)Hard boiled eggs are a no no. Way too much animal proten for a chameleon's diet and can lead to kidney issues, etc.
2) I heavily dust the super worm. My cham will usually only eat one that day.
3)I have a small reptibreeze cage that i use to safely leave him outside in. I've had a bird snatch up a pet chameleon that i placed on a branch in my garden less than 10 feet away from me. Not worth the risk.

 

[ali9021]

By far my favorite chameleon so far . Love Jackson's

 

[Kaden]

1)Hard boiled eggs are a no no. Way too much animal proten for a chameleon's diet and can lead to kidney issues, etc.
2) I heavily dust the super worm. My cham will usually only eat one that day.
3)I have a small reptibreeze cage that i use to safely leave him outside in. I've had a bird snatch up a pet chameleon that i placed on a branch in my garden less than 10 feet away from me. Not worth the risk.

Ok thanks for the info! Do you know anything else I could feed the roaches that contains protein other than gut loading products. If possible I'd like to know exactly what's going into my feeders. But if one of the products you listed earlier is ideal, then I'll happily feed that. Also, what type of snails do you feed. Thanks!

 

[jamest0o0]

Whoa lol someone saying crickets are better than roaches???? Roaches have higher immune systems making them unlikely to transmit crap to your chameleon. Roaches in my experience eat a ton, and have more to them. Try orange heads, they are active, soft bodied, and offer a lot in nutrition. Not to say crickets don't have their place, but arguing that they're better than roaches is a bit much... btw throw in some food for the crickets, you won't have to worry about them chewing your Cham. Egg should be fine to feed 1x a month as a gutload in place of vitamin A. regular thing wouldn't be good though.

 

[jamest0o0]

Protein is found in many things other than animal sources. Hemp seeds are among the best complete protein source, but I feed all sorts of seeds and nuts.

 

[Remkon]

Whoa lol someone saying crickets are better than roaches???? Roaches have higher immune systems making them unlikely to transmit crap to your chameleon. Roaches in my experience eat a ton, and have more to them. Try orange heads, they are active, soft bodied, and offer a lot in nutrition. Not to say crickets don't have their place, but arguing that they're better than roaches is a bit much... btw throw in some food for the crickets, you won't have to worry about them chewing your Cham. Egg should be fine to feed 1x a month as a gutload in place of vitamin A. regular thing wouldn't be good though.

They aren't a better feeder but they are more tasty... At least, my chams seem to feel that way. They ignore dubia and go without food for days rather than eating them...
Can't say I've seen orangeheads available here, we have redrunners but they breed at room temp so that can be tricky to keep in the house.

 

[jamest0o0]

Oh I totally agree, I just meant, if you have a Cham that readily accepts roaches. There is a lot of reasons then to make them the staple over crickets. If you can ever get orange heads is highly recommend them. My Cham eats them as much as he does worms.

 

[ali9021]

My little Jackson's LOVES Dubias thank God because I hate dealing with crickets. I just wish he liked Pheonix Worms more

 

[JacksJill]

Impaction
4) I've notice that when i feed my chams crickets as the primary part of their diet, they have a bowel movement everyday, whereas when i've fed them roaches, it's gone from them defecating daily, to every other day, to sometimes once a week. From this i must conclude that a roach must be much harder for a chameleon to digest. I've even had to treat some of my past chams for impaction (using oil) when i had them on a roach diet. The situation remedy itself when i switched back to a cricket diet.

Interesting. I haven't seen this with mine and I feed dubia, silkworms, super worms and the occasional snail. The dubia I feed are the smaller sized ones. Maybe the smaller size helps or the silkworms keep things moving. I do feed crickets occasionally but not as a staple these days.

 

[jamest0o0]

@JacksJill have you noticed any change in poop when you feed snails? I gave my panther a pretty large snail the other day. his poop looked fine, but was softer and a tad smellier than usual.

 

[JacksJill]

No change but my jackson's have a firmer drier poop than panthers ever do. They look like tiny foot balls and I don't get close enough to smell them.