Slow Acclimating and Not Feeding.

[Lloyd Heilbrunn]

Current Problem - The current problem that you are concerned about.

I got an Adult/young Adult(?) Veiled last Saturday. Self collected W/C.

Seems to have no active interest in food so far (I have tried crickets,waxworms,superworms, and mixed greens). But he is clearly in shed. Stays very dark colored except when sleeping. Very nervous, never seen him actually drinking either even though I'm misting heavy and even showered him for a bit in case he was dehydrated..Seems to hate being misted.

I tried something different yesterday, I put him in an old bird cage and out in the sun for an hour and then under my skylight for the rest of the day. Seemed to liven him up a lot. I also rigged up a dripper for him since he hates the misting so much.

It is possible he did eat a couple of waxworms in the bird cage but they might have climbed out.



Cage Info:

Cage Type - Describe your cage construction (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

30 gal screened top aquarium.

Lighting - What brand, model, and type of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

Exo terra Repti Glo 5.0 compact Florescent and a 50 watt spot. About 12 hours.


Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp?

Spot is 85-90. Rest is room temp usually 75-78. About 73-4 at night lately.

How do you measure these temps? Tempgun

Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

Unknown but even indoor Florida humidity is pretty high. Misting 2-3 times daily

Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

No, grapevine, plastic flexible vine, and plastic vine with artificial leaves.

Location - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

Family room, low traffic. Tank top above head height.

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

Male. See above for rest.

Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

Handled only to put outside and shower. Total twice in 8 days.

Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

See above

Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

N/A not eating

Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?

See above. Household spray misted. Added drip cup yesterday.

Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

Large raisin.No.

History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

See above.



Night and Day Pics attached.Thanks

 

[Julirs]

Ok-where to start. WC-really? 30 gallon aqauriums are for fish-an adult male Veiled needs a screen cage at least 24X24X48. These guys need vertical height as far as caging. Compact UVB is terrible, and causes eye issues, possible burns, and death-turn off now-do not wait. Temps are OK. He is stressed, possibly full of parasites, stressed, new to captivity, and stressed. They can go a long time without eating. I would get your cage situation fixed ASAP.

 

[Lloyd Heilbrunn]

"WC-really?" Yep, as you probably know, we have a few populations here in Florida.

I swapped the compact Florescent for an ordinary Florescent tube,and will swap it out for a UVB tube tomorrow when I can pick one up. Is 5.0 UVB ok as long as it is tube version? I guess there is some major false advertising for compact Florescents(it even has a Cham on the box)??


I know aquariums are not the best, this was not a planned acquisition, I just really thought he was neat when I caught him, and the tank was handy. I am not a beginning herp guy, just new to Chams.

I was looking at the 65 gallon Reptarium(16x28x30) which would have to be mail ordered. Would that be too small?? His body length is about 5-6 inches.


Any other suggestions on decreasing his stress and letting him settle in??.

 

[ciafardo 4]

If the bird cage is bigger i would keep him in that til you get the cage

 

[ciafardo 4]

BIG APPLE HERP has 100 gal reptarium for 64.50 get that one its big enough for a male veiled i would get it asap also you should have a vet do a fecal exam bein that he's "w.c." .

 

[Brad Ramsey]

Repti-Sun 5.0 is the preferred linear tube.
If you are going to use a reptarium tho, you might want the 10.0 linear tube.
Here is some husbandry info for the species (since you're new to chameleons):

http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/

-Brad

 

[Lloyd Heilbrunn]

Bird cage is smaller.

Stores near me have Repti Glo 5.0 tube only, is that ok too?

 

[Julirs]

Reptiglo will work -get the 10.0 for sure. I would get the 175 gallon Reptarium or the 24X24X48 screen cage. Or at minimum the 100 gallon Reptarium. He looks to be a very nice speciman-typical Flordia WC-huge casque! As far as stress-just let him be-maybe until you get the Reptarium cover the sides of the glass tank with paper-seeing their reflection is stressful.

 

[Nicodemayo]

Bird cage is smaller.

Stores near me have Repti Glo 5.0 tube only, is that ok too?

Lloyd the idea is to put him in a LARGER cage, not whatever he fits in.

 

[Lloyd Heilbrunn]

Lloyd the idea is to put him in a LARGER cage, not whatever he fits in.

Understood, I was responding to the below but forgot to quote it.....

If the bird cage is bigger i would keep him in that til you get the cage

 

[Brad Ramsey]

If you order your reptarium from LLL, you could order the light (13.99) at the same time.

-Brad

 

[Lloyd Heilbrunn]

Both 5.0 light bulbs I bought did not work so I had to use a 10.0. Seemed to run very hot, so I removed the reflector. I assume it will be cooler when I get a deeper cage?


Much more active the last few days and finally finished shedding around the eyes. I am wondering if he is having trouble seeing and finding the feeders in their cup on the bottom(although he ignored free range crickets too, until I removed them)??


I was thinking of offering him a superworm by forceps and maybe putting it in his mouth if he gapes.Thoughts??

 

[Julirs]

Flourescent tubes should not be hot at all. Remember-no compact twisty screw in lightbulbs-they cause eye damage.

 

[Lloyd Heilbrunn]

It is an 18" tube and gives some heat.

The difference with and without reflector in the top of the cage branches was 87-78. Tube temp was 115. As a comparision, spot temps on the bulb is 180!!

 

[Chameleon Company]

Hey Lloyd,

Lots of good advice above, etc. You hit on something early on, that being to get him outside. As you are down where it doesn't get cold too much, and are at the same latitudes as the wild Florida populations, you could have him outside 95% of the time, providing it works at your home. While large Reptariums (dark mesh) actually can get too hot in the warmer months due to the amount of heat they absorb in an already hot Florida environment, a large airy aluminum screen enclosure would serve nicely. Natural sunlight is exponentially better than any of the artificial lighting products, and the animal will almost always react better to it. Good luck.

 

[Brad Ramsey]

It is an 18" tube and gives some heat.

The difference with and without reflector in the top of the cage branches was 87-78. Tube temp was 115. As a comparision, spot temps on the bulb is 180!!

Yeah,
Lynda Horgan relies on the heat given off fluorescent light fixtures for babies and her veiled females since she does not employ a basking spot for either.
I have done the same.
Try holding the tube at the ends when it has been on for awhile. there is heat.
The reason you may want to use a 10.0 over a reptarium (or any similar enclosure) is the denser mesh.

-Brad

 

[Lloyd Heilbrunn]

Lots of good advice above, etc. You hit on something early on, that being to get him outside. As you are down where it doesn't get cold too much, and are at the same latitudes as the wild Florida populations, you could have him outside 95% of the time, providing it works at your home. While large Reptariums (dark mesh) actually can get too hot in the warmer months due to the amount of heat they absorb in an already hot Florida environment, a large airy aluminum screen enclosure would serve nicely. Natural sunlight is exponentially better than any of the artificial lighting products, and the animal will almost always react better to it. Good luck.

Hey Jim:

How have you been?? Nice to chat with you outside the BOI.

Thanks for the reply. I don't think outside 100% would work for me here, I'm in the city, but I see no reason when I get the lighter cage that I could not carry it outside periodically or even put it on wheels.

Yeah,
Lynda Horgan relies on the heat given off fluorescent light fixtures for babies and her veiled females since she does not employ a basking spot for either.
I have done the same.
Try holding the tube at the ends when it has been on for awhile. there is heat.
The reason you may want to use a 10.0 over a reptarium (or any similar enclosure) is the denser mesh.

-Brad

Thanks.


BTW, what do you both think about idea above of trying to feed with forceps and putting a worm right in his mouth?

 

[RachelRiot]

Hey Jim:

How have you been?? Nice to chat with you outside the BOI.

Thanks for the reply. I don't think outside 100% would work for me here, I'm in the city, but I see no reason when I get the lighter cage that I could not carry it outside periodically or even put it on wheels.




Thanks.


BTW, what do you both think about idea above of trying to feed with forceps and putting a worm right in his mouth?

Personally I would not put it directly into its mouth. I would maybe try holding at on the forceps and letting it strike the crix. I would assume that forcing it to eat could possibly result in choking.

 

[CleanLineChameleons]

My two cents...I would get him in a screen cage, stop the showers (it freaks them out and there is no way your WC from FL is dehydrated), get a 75 watt light for the heat, and don't worry so much about him not eating right away. A full grown healthy chameleon can easily go a week without eating. Right now he is probably freaked out by being in glass with temps not high enough and too much water.

Good luck,

Chris

 

[Lloyd Heilbrunn]

Wait, someone above said my temps were fine, do you disagree??