size of my cham
- Thread starter chems1998
- Start date
asongforyou
Member
It was born June 27, 2013?? Or last year in 2012?
Dr O
Veterinarian
ummmmmm……….being born already in June 2013 would be quite a feat!!
i know we had daylight savings this weekend, but that would still be a stretch!!
asongforyou
Member
ummmmmm……….being born already in June 2013 would be quite a feat!!
i know we had daylight savings this weekend, but that would still be a stretch!!
LOL it's just one of those things we can't explain
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
Instead of all the jokes, why don't we try and help this person figure out what is wrong. If your cham is 8 months old like you say and that small, then yes there is something wrong. Her/his mouth looks misshapen and the back legs look strange. Can you please fill this out so we can try and help you further? https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
I did not see the other threads.
laurie
Retired Moderator
Help Your Cham NOW
I moved your thread to the Health section.
Alright I have had it!! I have just reread every one of your threads. Your cham is in trouble and has some major issues. Either you step up to the plate and take care of your cham or you will continue to torture it to death!!!!
I see so many problems I don't know where to start.
The red light needs to go now. He need a regular household incandescent light bulb for heat buy a 60 watt. He needs a reptisun 5.0 UVB.
He needs both of these NOW. They should be on during the day for 12 hours and off at night for 12 hours.
He needs food that is properly gutloaded as dusted. The food items need to fit between his eyes looking down from the top. Currently in his shape I would order small silk worms, phoenix worms and small crickets, about 1/4 inch.
Make these changes now and I mean now.
This is a care sheet for a veiled read and follow it.
Veiled Chameleons - General Care
Temperature:
Baby/juvenile (<9 months): ambient 72-80F (22-26C), basking 85F (29C)
Adult males: ambient 75-80F (23-26C), basking 90-95F (32-35C)
Adult females: ambient 75-80F (23-26C), basking 85F (29C)
Ambient temperature refers to the temperature near the bottom of the cage and basking temperature refers to the hottest point accessible to your chameleon. Basking is where a chameleon absorbs heat from an external overhead source to help regulate their body temperature; it also promotes proper digestion and a healthy metabolism. Nighttime temperatures can safely drop down to 50F (10C) so a night heat source should not be used unless temperatures are lower than this. If night heat is needed a ceramic heat emitter or space heater should be used, not a light bulb, even red or black bulbs.
Humidity:
Humidity is an important aspect of chameleon husbandry. Veiled chameleons require levels around 40-70%, which can be achieved by several misting sessions a day over all areas of the cage. Live plants help increase and maintain humidity. Sometimes a cool mist humidifier or timer-controlled misting system is needed. See Water & Humidity for more information.
Cage Size:
In general when housing chameleons, bigger is better. Veiled chameleons are highly territorial and easily stressed by the presence of other chameleons, even of their own species. Two or more veiled chameleons should never be kept in the same cage. Cages should be furnished with many plants and climbing branches to provide opportunities for exercise and plenty of places for hiding. Substrate (mulch, soil, etc.) should not be used in chameleon cages. See Chameleon Enclosures for more information.
screen cage (length x width x height):
juveniles/sub-adults : 16x16x30" (40x40x76cm)
adult female minimum: 18x18x36" (45x45x90cm)
adult male minimum: 24x24x48" (60x60x120cm)
Lighting:
All lighting and heat bulbs should be outside and on top of the cage. There should be 12 hours of UVB light, along with 12 hours of darkness for proper rest. A UVB bulb is necessary to synthesize vitamin D3 in the skin and to facilitate absorption of dietary calcium. UVB bulbs only emit UVB rays for 6-8 months, even if they’re still shining, so they must be replaced at least twice a year. A basking bulb creates the heat gradient so that your cold-blooded chameleon can regulate its body temperature by moving into warmer or cooler zones as needed. When choosing a basking bulb start with a 60watt bulb and monitor temperature closely. Higher wattage bulbs are hotter in temperature and vice versa so choose the appropriate wattage bulb based on the temperatures achieved. A bulb that makes it too hot can burn your chameleon badly even from several inches away and through the screen. See Chameleon Lighting for more information.
Veiled Chameleons - Food & Nutrition
Feeding:
Veiled chameleons are more omnivorous than most chameleon species and many enjoy munching on plant leaves and fruit in addition to using their long sticky tongue to catch live insects. Great feeder insects include crickets, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, dubia roaches and superworms. Waxworms and mealworms are high in fat content and harder to digest so should only be used on occasion. The rule of thumb is to not feed insects that are longer than the width of your chameleon's head.
Neonates: as many small crickets as they can eat several times a day
Juveniles 3-6 months of age: 10-12 small crickets daily
Juveniles 6-12 months of age: 10-12 medium crickets every other day
Adults over 12 months of age: 7-10 medium-large crickets every other day
Chameleons should be fed in the first half of the day to give them time to bask and digest their food properly. Crickets need to be properly gutloaded with calcium rich vegetables several hours before being fed to your chameleon. Inadequate dietary calcium leads to metabolic bone disease, a very serious illness. Commercially available gutloads usually aren't properly balanced or sufficient for good nutrition. See Chameleon Food for more information.
Supplementation:
Calcium and other vitamins are very important to your chameleon's health. Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. Many keepers successfully use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) at nearly every feeding, multivitamin once every 2 weeks, and calcium with D3 once every 2 weeks.
Hydration & Misting
The cage should be misted at least twice a day, drying out completely between misting sessions. This raises relative humidity as well as stimulates your chameleon to want to drink. Water can be provided by means of a dripper (not a waterfall or water bowl). The dripper should be placed on top of the cage so that the water droplets drip down and accumulate on plant leaves. Other watering options include manual and automated misting sytems. Chameleons do not recognize standing water as a drinking source. See Water & Humidity for more information.
Veiled Chameleons
Since you won't bother to fill out the help form, no matter how many people ask, I do not feel sure you even want to help your cham, rather you just want attention. If that is the case call Elisa at ChamEO. That is a rescue operation. She will take your cham before you kill it. Her phone number is call 818-219-9315 the address is :
ChamEO, Inc.
P.O. 371
Woodland Hills, CA 91365
She takes chams from all over the US. I am sorry this is harsh but there is no excuse for what you are doing to that cham, either fix what you are doing or give it to someone who will.
I moved your thread to the Health section.
Alright I have had it!! I have just reread every one of your threads. Your cham is in trouble and has some major issues. Either you step up to the plate and take care of your cham or you will continue to torture it to death!!!!
I see so many problems I don't know where to start.
The red light needs to go now. He need a regular household incandescent light bulb for heat buy a 60 watt. He needs a reptisun 5.0 UVB.
He needs both of these NOW. They should be on during the day for 12 hours and off at night for 12 hours.
He needs food that is properly gutloaded as dusted. The food items need to fit between his eyes looking down from the top. Currently in his shape I would order small silk worms, phoenix worms and small crickets, about 1/4 inch.
Make these changes now and I mean now.
This is a care sheet for a veiled read and follow it.
Veiled Chameleons - General Care
Temperature:
Baby/juvenile (<9 months): ambient 72-80F (22-26C), basking 85F (29C)
Adult males: ambient 75-80F (23-26C), basking 90-95F (32-35C)
Adult females: ambient 75-80F (23-26C), basking 85F (29C)
Ambient temperature refers to the temperature near the bottom of the cage and basking temperature refers to the hottest point accessible to your chameleon. Basking is where a chameleon absorbs heat from an external overhead source to help regulate their body temperature; it also promotes proper digestion and a healthy metabolism. Nighttime temperatures can safely drop down to 50F (10C) so a night heat source should not be used unless temperatures are lower than this. If night heat is needed a ceramic heat emitter or space heater should be used, not a light bulb, even red or black bulbs.
Humidity:
Humidity is an important aspect of chameleon husbandry. Veiled chameleons require levels around 40-70%, which can be achieved by several misting sessions a day over all areas of the cage. Live plants help increase and maintain humidity. Sometimes a cool mist humidifier or timer-controlled misting system is needed. See Water & Humidity for more information.
Cage Size:
In general when housing chameleons, bigger is better. Veiled chameleons are highly territorial and easily stressed by the presence of other chameleons, even of their own species. Two or more veiled chameleons should never be kept in the same cage. Cages should be furnished with many plants and climbing branches to provide opportunities for exercise and plenty of places for hiding. Substrate (mulch, soil, etc.) should not be used in chameleon cages. See Chameleon Enclosures for more information.
screen cage (length x width x height):
juveniles/sub-adults : 16x16x30" (40x40x76cm)
adult female minimum: 18x18x36" (45x45x90cm)
adult male minimum: 24x24x48" (60x60x120cm)
Lighting:
All lighting and heat bulbs should be outside and on top of the cage. There should be 12 hours of UVB light, along with 12 hours of darkness for proper rest. A UVB bulb is necessary to synthesize vitamin D3 in the skin and to facilitate absorption of dietary calcium. UVB bulbs only emit UVB rays for 6-8 months, even if they’re still shining, so they must be replaced at least twice a year. A basking bulb creates the heat gradient so that your cold-blooded chameleon can regulate its body temperature by moving into warmer or cooler zones as needed. When choosing a basking bulb start with a 60watt bulb and monitor temperature closely. Higher wattage bulbs are hotter in temperature and vice versa so choose the appropriate wattage bulb based on the temperatures achieved. A bulb that makes it too hot can burn your chameleon badly even from several inches away and through the screen. See Chameleon Lighting for more information.
Veiled Chameleons - Food & Nutrition
Feeding:
Veiled chameleons are more omnivorous than most chameleon species and many enjoy munching on plant leaves and fruit in addition to using their long sticky tongue to catch live insects. Great feeder insects include crickets, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, dubia roaches and superworms. Waxworms and mealworms are high in fat content and harder to digest so should only be used on occasion. The rule of thumb is to not feed insects that are longer than the width of your chameleon's head.
Neonates: as many small crickets as they can eat several times a day
Juveniles 3-6 months of age: 10-12 small crickets daily
Juveniles 6-12 months of age: 10-12 medium crickets every other day
Adults over 12 months of age: 7-10 medium-large crickets every other day
Chameleons should be fed in the first half of the day to give them time to bask and digest their food properly. Crickets need to be properly gutloaded with calcium rich vegetables several hours before being fed to your chameleon. Inadequate dietary calcium leads to metabolic bone disease, a very serious illness. Commercially available gutloads usually aren't properly balanced or sufficient for good nutrition. See Chameleon Food for more information.
Supplementation:
Calcium and other vitamins are very important to your chameleon's health. Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. Many keepers successfully use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) at nearly every feeding, multivitamin once every 2 weeks, and calcium with D3 once every 2 weeks.
Hydration & Misting
The cage should be misted at least twice a day, drying out completely between misting sessions. This raises relative humidity as well as stimulates your chameleon to want to drink. Water can be provided by means of a dripper (not a waterfall or water bowl). The dripper should be placed on top of the cage so that the water droplets drip down and accumulate on plant leaves. Other watering options include manual and automated misting sytems. Chameleons do not recognize standing water as a drinking source. See Water & Humidity for more information.
Veiled Chameleons
Since you won't bother to fill out the help form, no matter how many people ask, I do not feel sure you even want to help your cham, rather you just want attention. If that is the case call Elisa at ChamEO. That is a rescue operation. She will take your cham before you kill it. Her phone number is call 818-219-9315 the address is :
ChamEO, Inc.
P.O. 371
Woodland Hills, CA 91365
She takes chams from all over the US. I am sorry this is harsh but there is no excuse for what you are doing to that cham, either fix what you are doing or give it to someone who will.
Last edited:
sulley
New Member
im not being rude in anyway but why dont you have the correct equipment etc for him.there are tons of care sheets stating there requirements very very clearly.this poor creature is suffering please go get what he needs or take lauries advise and give him to someone who can care for him properly.you are making him suffer.
Dr O
Veterinarian
thanks laurie—
i feel terrible for the little cham that is miraculously alive but is not likely to live a long, healthy life. my line in the sand gives more leeway for poor pet owners than most, but it still has it’s limits. and even based on this other post today, either they’re trolling or just…….just.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/help-105758/
i feel terrible for the little cham that is miraculously alive but is not likely to live a long, healthy life. my line in the sand gives more leeway for poor pet owners than most, but it still has it’s limits. and even based on this other post today, either they’re trolling or just…….just.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/help-105758/
NavyCham
New Member
i dont think its trolling. you can see posts from this person since JUL. all of them are either "help" or questions about food. what worries me is the constant asking of "what or how much should be fed" when the person states theyve had the cham for a while already. by that time u should know what and how much ur cham eats. also in every thread they were asked to post a "how to ask for help" and also were told that theyre setup needs to be adjusted but there have still been no changes.. I know im new to chams and i started out misinformed like many on here did but it frustrates me to see someone ask for help but never takes anyones advise
SaintJimmy
Avid Member
Here are things you need.
FOOD:
-Crickets/roaches are most common to buy as feeders. Buy these and every day you sprinkle a tiny bit of calcium onto each one (no d3 in the calcium) or put them in bags with the calcium and shake them around.
-You should be feeding the chameleon 6-8 bugs a day WITH the caclium
-Twice a month, give it calcium WITH d3
LIGHTS:
-GET RID OF THE RED LIGHT NOW.
-UVB bulb
-Heat bulb
-Both UVB and heat need to be on for 12 hrs a day minimum
-NO lights at night
CAGE:
-Your cage should have NO dirt/sand/moss on the bottom. NONE
-Should have plenty of sticks for it to climb around on, horizontal and vertical
-Some fake plants/real plants attached inside the cage so the chameleon has something to drink off of/hide in.
WATER:
-You need to spray the chameleon's cage with water 3 times a day so the little water drops form on the leaves.
-Poke a hole in the bottom of a cup, put some water in it, and put the cup on top of the cage near some leaves so your chameleon can drink whenever they want.
HANDLING:
-Your chameleon is obviously very ill and you should not handle your chameleon very often until he gets better.
I am not trying to shame you here, I am simply trying to help. I hate to see that your chameleon obviously went through 8 months of his life being practically tortured with lack of proper care and supplements.
Please do help your chameleon get better.
AND READ THESE REPLIES SO YOU KNOW WHAT TO DO.
FOOD:
-Crickets/roaches are most common to buy as feeders. Buy these and every day you sprinkle a tiny bit of calcium onto each one (no d3 in the calcium) or put them in bags with the calcium and shake them around.
-You should be feeding the chameleon 6-8 bugs a day WITH the caclium
-Twice a month, give it calcium WITH d3
LIGHTS:
-GET RID OF THE RED LIGHT NOW.
-UVB bulb
-Heat bulb
-Both UVB and heat need to be on for 12 hrs a day minimum
-NO lights at night
CAGE:
-Your cage should have NO dirt/sand/moss on the bottom. NONE
-Should have plenty of sticks for it to climb around on, horizontal and vertical
-Some fake plants/real plants attached inside the cage so the chameleon has something to drink off of/hide in.
WATER:
-You need to spray the chameleon's cage with water 3 times a day so the little water drops form on the leaves.
-Poke a hole in the bottom of a cup, put some water in it, and put the cup on top of the cage near some leaves so your chameleon can drink whenever they want.
HANDLING:
-Your chameleon is obviously very ill and you should not handle your chameleon very often until he gets better.
I am not trying to shame you here, I am simply trying to help. I hate to see that your chameleon obviously went through 8 months of his life being practically tortured with lack of proper care and supplements.
Please do help your chameleon get better.
AND READ THESE REPLIES SO YOU KNOW WHAT TO DO.
vgaines
Member
Listen
This really breaks my heart. I do not understand why you have not gotten this poor thing the stuff he needs to thrive. I too am on a very tight budget (single mom with two kids...one in college and am going to school myself) but my little girl will be back to the vets tomorrow. Second time and I have only had her a month. I have asked for help on this forum and have found a way to change everything I have been told to change. They way I look at it is if your are going to get an animal you have to make sure you take care of it. Just like I do with my kids....I may have to go without something so I can take proper care of them...This poor chameleon did not ask to come live with you so you have the responsibility to do what is right. Call the rescue lady. give this poor chameleon a chance to be healthy..
Virginia
This really breaks my heart. I do not understand why you have not gotten this poor thing the stuff he needs to thrive. I too am on a very tight budget (single mom with two kids...one in college and am going to school myself) but my little girl will be back to the vets tomorrow. Second time and I have only had her a month. I have asked for help on this forum and have found a way to change everything I have been told to change. They way I look at it is if your are going to get an animal you have to make sure you take care of it. Just like I do with my kids....I may have to go without something so I can take proper care of them...This poor chameleon did not ask to come live with you so you have the responsibility to do what is right. Call the rescue lady. give this poor chameleon a chance to be healthy..
Virginia
Cainschams
New Member
WOW. Ive gone through a few of your threads and either you are trolling, not taking advice, not giving info so others can give you advice, are an idiot or all of the above.
What you should do is either take that chameleon to a vet to have it put down. If you do not have the funds to do so then you should put it on a hard surface and smash its head with a brick or something similar like your foot. Destroying the brain in a split second will cause it to feel no pain. It is in pain right now and I doubt it would live long with vet care. Its either time to stop trolling or time to put that poor creature out of its misery.
Edit: I wouldnt even try to take it to a vet to try and save. Its better off dead. You do not need animals. You were asked multiple times about your setup and also told you needed a UVB light. You have absolutely no place in keeping any animal. Im not usually this harsh but this is pathetic.
What you should do is either take that chameleon to a vet to have it put down. If you do not have the funds to do so then you should put it on a hard surface and smash its head with a brick or something similar like your foot. Destroying the brain in a split second will cause it to feel no pain. It is in pain right now and I doubt it would live long with vet care. Its either time to stop trolling or time to put that poor creature out of its misery.
Edit: I wouldnt even try to take it to a vet to try and save. Its better off dead. You do not need animals. You were asked multiple times about your setup and also told you needed a UVB light. You have absolutely no place in keeping any animal. Im not usually this harsh but this is pathetic.
Bacteria77
New Member
Truly sad.
SaintJimmy
Avid Member
WOW. Ive gone through a few of your threads and either you are trolling, not taking advice, not giving info so others can give you advice, are an idiot or all of the above.
What you should do is either take that chameleon to a vet to have it put down. If you do not have the funds to do so then you should put it on a hard surface and smash its head with a brick or something similar like your foot. Destroying the brain in a split second will cause it to feel no pain. It is in pain right now and I doubt it would live long with vet care. Its either time to stop trolling or time to put that poor creature out of its misery.
Edit: I wouldnt even try to take it to a vet to try and save. Its better off dead. You do not need animals. You were asked multiple times about your setup and also told you needed a UVB light. You have absolutely no place in keeping any animal. Im not usually this harsh but this is pathetic.
Yeah I'm starting to agree with you..
This guy asks for help multiple times but just chooses to ignore people's good intentions over and over.
He is either intentionally or unintentionally torturing his cham.
Pantherfreak
New Member
WOW. Ive gone through a few of your threads and either you are trolling, not taking advice, not giving info so others can give you advice, are an idiot or all of the above.
What you should do is either take that chameleon to a vet to have it put down. If you do not have the funds to do so then you should put it on a hard surface and smash its head with a brick or something similar like your foot. Destroying the brain in a split second will cause it to feel no pain. It is in pain right now and I doubt it would live long with vet care. Its either time to stop trolling or time to put that poor creature out of its misery.
Edit: I wouldnt even try to take it to a vet to try and save. Its better off dead. You do not need animals. You were asked multiple times about your setup and also told you needed a UVB light. You have absolutely no place in keeping any animal. Im not usually this harsh but this is pathetic.
Im a new cham owner. I rescued a cool little guy this ^ cant be the solution?
With all do respect senior member.
Cant a admin just delete this guy he is not a true cham owner and I thought this is what this site is all about.
