Welcome to the forum!
Some people have told you some things already...I have a few comments/suggestions/questions too.
Your chameleons lips are slightly separated at the tip of his mouth...are they always like this?
Just curious...how does the temperature stay so warm at night?
Cage Info:
Cage Type - is the free air cage, like a screen door. 20x20x36
Lighting - 5.0 UVB and 1 "daylight" bulb going to keep them on 12 hours a day (as recomended but you guys might sugest other wise)
Temperature - temp is around 78-80 F, not sure on the basking temp, only have one temp gauge,night temp will be around 73-78
Humidity - i have constant dripping water in one side of the corner, with this brick expandy mulch stuff on the bottom with moss
Plants - no live plants yet, just plastics (all non toxic)
Location - he is located as far away from my door as possible, in the back corner behind my bed, so only traffic there is, is me on my bed lol
Regarding supplements...I dust the insects with a phosphorous-free calcium powder at most feedings. Insects that we use as feeders have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous generally so this helps to make up for it.
I dust with a vitamin powder with a beta carotene source of vitamin A twice a month. The beta carotene (prOformed) can't build up in the system like preformed vitamin A can. However there is controversy as to whether all/any species of chameleon can convert the beta carotene...so some give their chameleons a little prEformed vitamin A once in a while. Excess prEformed vitamin A can build up in the system and prevent the D3 from doing its job...and lead to MBD. I believe that Reptivite does contain prEformed vitamin A.
If your chameleon only gets UVB from the tube lights then you may want to dust with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder twice a month. Exposure to UVB allows the chameleon to produce D3 which allows it to use the calcium in its diet. The best UVB comes from the sun and if your chameleon gets some sun most days then it won't need any D3 supplements. The UVB from the tube lights or the sun should not pass through glass or plastic. Excess D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause problems...so don't over do it. When outside, the chameleon should be able to move out of the sun if it choses to...BTW.
Phosphorous, calcium, D3 and vitamin A are the main players in bone health and should be in balance. Look at your supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon when trying to attain a balance.
You said...the poop "was a dark color really slimy looking"...was there a brown part and a white part?
You can gutload your crickets with an assortment of greens (dandelion, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc.).
Here are some sites with good information...
http://www.adcham.com/
http://www.chameleonnews.com/
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/index.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...als.com/vet/index.php?show=8.Gout.Basics.html
Good luck!