New to chameleons and took pet shop advice?? Now I'm worried! Can anybody help or guide me from here?

Thegodfarmer

New Member
I will give info here but only had baby 4-5days.
Your Chameleon
- a boy baby, as big as a thumb.
  • Handling - as little as necessary. But used to handling in pet shop.
  • Feeding - nothing first day. Eaten several crickets dusted since but only 1 today.
  • Supplements - repticalcium. With and without d3
  • Watering - hand misting warm water 3-4 times a day seen drinking plenty by opening mouth and moving tongue while spraying.
  • Fecal Description - only one I've seen was a yellowish with white around it.
  • History - seemed very active in shop, ??

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - shop supplied 4'x2'x2' wood with glass front and vents. Pond liner bottom to catch water
  • Lighting - shop supplied T5 850mm 12% 39w arcadia reptile
  • Temperature - basking under 60w incandescent lamp with wire cage at 32 degrees on dimmer thermostat attached to log and independent thermometer probe to verify temp, top 24 degrees at other side of cage minimum 20 degrees on floor on evening. Ambient outside temp 18 to 20 degrees
  • Humidity - electronic humidity probe ambient humidity 50-70 in day. Spikes to 90 after spraying for 1 hour then drops. Night 75ish.
  • Plants - 1 plant in pot. Mother in laws tongue.
  • Placement - on low table at moment until I get everything right. Will move up when I've settled everything. Low traffic area at back of large room. Much less traffic than pet shop.
  • Location - north yorkshire England

Current Problem - I set up my enclosure 3 days before bringing him home. Everything supplied by the shop and advice for care given by shop. Did some of my own research in the 3 days and had a few doubts. I currently have a royal python 7 parrots, 4 of which i hand reared from 3 weeks and praying mantids. I am not daft but a complete novice with chameleons. The first day he seemed ok and drank from the mist on the wall we left him alone and didn't touch his locusts but expected this on first day. Next day seemed uninterested in food again so dusted some locust with calcium +d3 and held one near him and he flicked at it but it didn't stick I think it was too dusty?? So I went back to shop to ask what he was used to eating and he wasn't sure?! So I bought some small crickets but when I came home he just fell off the branch about 2 feet. Helped him back up seemed ok but one eye closed. And he was acting normal. However later in the day I offered some crickets and he ate 5 good sized ones and then went under his lamp and had a drink. Then the next day I noticed the other eye was closed and he wasn't "awake" in the morning so I left him until dinnertime and got on the internet to do some research and worked out it could be dehydration so misted him more that day. He opened one eye just enough to eat 3 crickets from my hand then back closed, after deciding it was unlikely to be dehydration I got back on the net and realised it could be the 12% UVb 850mm T5 lamp far too strong for a baby so I turned it off last night and had only heat lamp today. I found an 8 inch 2.5% uvb lamp I got for my birds ages ago and put it in for tomorrow as I think now it is either uvb to blame or stress. However he shows no sign of obvious stress and is still a lovely turquoise colour or he goes a bit darker more brown or dark green on a night or if I have annoyed him but as of now he is not opening either eye and is only opening one eye to eat and then clamps it closed again. He only ate 1 cricket today... no d3 only calcium. Realised they don't need much d3. He hasn't moved much but still climbing up to top to go to sleep.... I know closing his eyes is not normal but he doesn't seem stressed and is just not moving much because his eyes are closed. He's just moved 2 feet to be on some leaves for bedtime so he can move when he wants to even though his eyes are upsetting him..... does anybody have any ideas or know what I am doing wrong as I don't give up easy and want to do the best for him but I'm a bit out of my depth I think as he's very small and I'm not certain I'm doing things right??? Can anybody help me as I'm concerned he won't eat if he doesn't open his eyes???
 
Ok but it is after lights out now and I don't want to disturb him now. I will post pictures of him and environment tomorrow
 
Some photos at lights on so before temp climbs. He has opened both eyes this morning and has moved to basking spot on his own so I'm hopeful I have helped the situation but please feel free to comment all you can as any little bits of help are appreciated. Ps I realise I need more foliage. I am working on that today.
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Any future considerations appreciated, after doing more research as he gets bigger I may put a mesh extension top on the cage for height and ventilation?
 
I'd get rid of the wood chips on the bottom. he can accidentaly eat them and get impacted. You could add some more climbing plants to cover up the space in your terrarium, like ficus or pothos, those are quite strong and climbable plants. maybe some horizontal branches (bamboo) so he can move around somewhat easier and hide.
Other than that he looks a lil dry and dehydrated (eyes are sunken) adding plants will help with this, as they retain water a bit and he can drink from the leaves.

The crickets you feed seem quite big (I can see one on the photos) might be too big for him to eat.
Its also a lot easier to place all the crickets in a plastic cup and hang that somewhere in the terrarium. Otherwise the crickets will clean the mineral powder off off themselved and they can nibble on your chameleon at night.
Veiled chameleons are also known for eating their plants, so plastic plants could be dangerous for them as they can eat them.

Chameleons are a bit difficult to keep if you are just beginning, but don't worry; once everyting is set up right they can make great pets :)
 
Your Chameleon - a boy baby, as big as a thumb.
  • Handling - as little as necessary. But used to handling in pet shop.
  • Feeding - nothing first day. Eaten several crickets dusted since but only 1 today. feed a variety while he is little, it will be easier for him to find things he likes that way, especially if he goes on a hunger strike.
  • Supplements - repticalcium. With and without d3 schedule should be dusting calcium no d3 every day, calcium d3 twice a month and alternating weeks multivitamin twice a month.
  • Watering - hand misting warm water 3-4 times a day seen drinking plenty by opening mouth and moving tongue while spraying. he still looks dehydrated, you should mist for at least 2 mins each time.
  • Fecal Description - only one I've seen was a yellowish with white around it.
  • History - seemed very active in shop, ??

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - shop supplied 4'x2'x2' wood with glass front and vents. Pond liner bottom to catch water its 2' tall?
  • Lighting - shop supplied T5 850mm 12% 39w arcadia reptile
  • Temperature - basking under 60w incandescent lamp with wire cage at 32 degrees on dimmer thermostat attached to log and independent thermometer probe to verify temp, top 24 degrees at other side of cage minimum 20 degrees on floor on evening. Ambient outside temp 18 to 20 degrees it shouldnt be more than 29-30 in the cage at the basking spot.
  • Humidity - electronic humidity probe ambient humidity 50-70 in day. Spikes to 90 after spraying for 1 hour then drops. Night 75ish. needs to be 30-40 % during the day time. 70-100 % at night time.
  • Plants - 1 plant in pot. Mother in laws tongue.
  • Placement - on low table at moment until I get everything right. Will move up when I've settled everything. Low traffic area at back of large room. Much less traffic than pet shop.
  • Location - north yorkshire England
a lot of times eyes closing can be a indicator of the most likely possible 3 things
1. something is stressing him out
2. he has parasites/an internal problem
3. his eyes are dry from dehydration
although it could be something else, these are the most likely causes ive seen.
when a chameleon shuts its eyes in the day time its often an indicator somethings wrong
 
Well,lesson learned about petshop advise. Please feel free to ask for advise from members of the forum as most have good experience with chams. Good luck with your new one.
 
Well,lesson learned about petshop advise. Please feel free to ask for advise from members of the forum as most have good experience with chams. Good luck with your new one.
Thankyou. Pet shops are good for general advice but rarely do they specialise in a type of animal, hopefully I can go forward providing the right care so he's happy, I assume it's a HE as he has very small spurs behind his back legs. He didn't eat today but moving around a bit on his own and introduced a drinking fountain to try and entice him to drink more.
 
introduced a drinking fountain

I would remove the fountain. They're bacterial time bombs, and not worth the amount of cleaning you'd have to utilize to keep it safe.

Keep an eye on his urates (the white/yellow/orange part of his poop). Generally, if it's 75% white or there abouts he's getting plenty to drink. If not, adjust your misting schedule accordingly and/or incorporate a drip system of some variety.
 
Ok makes sense I did wonder that myself. It was a bit of an impulse buy because I wanted to be sure he had the opportunity to drink whenever he chooses until I'm happy he's hydrated and feeding and settled in. So a run to waste system is the way to go then no problem, how much water do you get through in a day/week?
I would remove the fountain. They're bacterial time bombs, and not worth the amount of cleaning you'd have to utilize to keep it safe.

Keep an eye on his urates (the white/yellow/orange part of his poop). Generally, if it's 75% white or there abouts he's getting plenty to drink. If not, adjust your misting schedule accordingly and/or incorporate a drip system of some variety.
The "Chameleon Canteens" are still bacterial disasters, as far as I'm concerned. Still very easy for the chan to poop in there or for feeders to drown. Any closed system is no bueno without some serious elbow grease.
 
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