New Jackson's Chameleon

cantgetagoodsn

Avid Member
Hey guys. I'm new to the forums, I just got my Jackson's Chameleon a few days ago. I have had one before when I was very young. After thorough research I think I am doing everything much better this time as far as setup.


Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - Male Jackson's Chameleon about 9-12 months of age. I bought him from flchams.com.

* Handling - I have a couple of times for a minute or two because he was new and I was excited. But that was just the first day, it's been two days now.

* Feeding - I am feeding him crickets currently. I put in a few Giant Mealworms, but I haven't seen him eat one yet. He ate about 10 pinhead crickets and about 5 regular the first day I got him right after he was shipped. 2-3 the second day. And about 3 today. I am putting apple slices in the cricket carrier and they are getting dusted with calcium and minerals at the pet store.

* Supplements - Just what is sprinkled on at the store.

* Watering - I use a hand mister with pump. I have been misting for about 15-20 seconds before. I noticed the humidity is about 50-53 when I do that. I misted longer today and directly saw him drinkins.

* Fecal Description - I havent seen any yet... It has only been 3 days.

* History - Purchased from flchams.com


Cage Info:

* Cage Type - I use an 18'"x18"x36" screen cage, for now. I plan on making a 2'x2'x4' screen cage that is elevated and create a drainage system so the bottom doesn't get so wet. I have the eco carpet on the bottom.

* Lighting - I use an 18'' UVA/UVB bulb. I don't know the brand as I bought it used. I plan to replace it since I don't know if it's emitting the right rays, with a Reptisun 5.0.

* Temperature - I have about a 7-8* temp change, but I think in reality it's more because of how I placed the thermometers. I will better plan in the new cage. Lowest overnight temp is 65* I have thermometer at the top, but it's a little far from the basking spot since I moved it. Then I have another thermometer at the bottom of the cage about 10'' from the bottom.

* Humidity - It ranges from about 50%-65%. I use a dripper and mist several times a day. I plan on buying an automatic mister soon since school is starting. I use an analog reader.

* Plants - No, they're fake. Maybe real ones in the new cage.

* Placement - My room. Sorta near a fan, but my room is pretty small. Not really close to an air vent. I'm usually the only one in my room. 36'' from the floor to the top. In the new cage I will elevate it and have a foot taller cage.

* Location - Lubbock, TX.

I hope that gives you guys enough information to know what I'm currently working with/what I have in mind. The reason why I am posting is because he is extremely dark during the day, and bright green at night. When I first took him out of the box from flchams.com, and let him loose in the cage he was very bright green. Now he only looks like that at night. He hasn't been moving around AT ALL, even though they hardly move as it is. Today though he seems to be moving around a lot and exploring. I threw a few crickets in there so he will have food if he wants it.

He wasn't drinking, but I misted him for longer periods of time today, and he was drinking. I heated the water a little, not a lot though. When I do spray it inside he always runs, hangs upside down on a branch until I'm done. Is this normal?

Any other advice you guys can give me?
 

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I, until about one month ago, had a WC Jackson. From my experience I can tell you this:

1. Make sure it does not get too hot during the day. 85 degrees is max. Jacksons like cooler temperature.
2. Try to feed him something other then crickets and meal worms. Get some dubia roaches (or any other kind of roaches) they like them. You can also try silkworms or hornworms. Try not to feed him a lot of mealworms. I fed my Jackson only crickets for the first couple of month and he went on the hunger strike. After that he would not even look at crickets.
3. Get a automatic misting system MistKing and set the misting on a timer.
4. This is important. Get the fecal sample to the vet to check for parasites. WC Jackson for sure have them and that could have a big impact on his appetite. If he has parasites then you would need to treat him.
5. Try to keep the humidity up. I would cover two sides of the cage with the painters plastic so after misting the moisture does not evaporates quickly.
6. Definitely change the light. Get Raptisun 5.0.

My Jackson also hated when mister was working. He always tried to hide from water, so I think it is normal.
 
Thanks for the advice. I will try the new food as soon as I can. Can you recognize anything about the color only being greener during the night and not the day?
 
Thanks for the advice. I will try the new food as soon as I can. Can you recognize anything about the color only being greener during the night and not the day?

When you say "greener at night", do you mean when he is asleep? Chameleons turn very bright green when they go to sleep. Pretty normal.
 
Thanks for the advice. I will try the new food as soon as I can. Can you recognize anything about the color only being greener during the night and not the day?

The color at night is always greener then during the day. However, he is not supposed to be very dark during the day. If he is dark, dark green then he probably stressed. He maybe too hot.

Also couple of more things:

If you can get him some sun basking that would be good. I usually did it in the morning between 9 and 10am, before it gets too hot. Just buy a small plant and place the cham on it. He will find the warm spot and stay there until he is warm enough. Once he starts moving or opens his mouth it is time to take him back to the cage.

Get the following:
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog...rep-cal-calcium-and-herptivite-combo-special/

http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog...ers/-/sticky-tongue-minerall-outdoor-formula/

Each person has different supplement schedule. Maybe someone else can tell what would be a good supplement schedule for 1 year old.

I attached the picture of a Jackson I used to have.
 

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Well could he just still be stressed a little from the new environment? The temps say 82 and the basking light is pretty close to it. and he usually stays towards the top, doesn't go down too low at all. If he was really hot where it would hurt him wouldnt he move down automatically?

So, minus building that new cage, what could you guys recommend as far as making him happier. I'm guessing he isn't happy because of the constant brown color. Do I need to contact flchams and ask about him?

I got a new UVB bulb tonight. I called and asked if they had the reptisun 5.0 18" and he said they did. I went, and they only had reptiglow 5.0. Is there truly going to be THAT much of a difference?

And lastly, a couple of times it looks like he yawns and hisses/makes a throwing up motion. Is that his mating call?
 
Just let see how things progress. Try feeding him every other day, but make sure he drinks a lot. If things do not improve call the store.
 
It can take them a week or more to settle down. It sounds like he's settling in if he's moving about more. Hiding from the mist is pretty typical. Try misting everything but the chameleon (including the top of the cage) so it's almost raining inside the cage.
 
Ok that makes me feel better, knowing that it can take a couple of weeks for them to settle in. I think it will help once classes start I'll be gone more often than I am now, especially with work. Maybe it'll give him some more peace. Im just worried about the brown color. He was a really nice green when I first took him out from shipping (which I thought he would be stressed from), but after that he's been dark brown except for at night.

Does that ultrasonic humidifier create enough water for misting? or just increase the humidity?
 
Ok that makes me feel better, knowing that it can take a couple of weeks for them to settle in. I think it will help once classes start I'll be gone more often than I am now, especially with work. Maybe it'll give him some more peace. Im just worried about the brown color. He was a really nice green when I first took him out from shipping (which I thought he would be stressed from), but after that he's been dark brown except for at night.

Does that ultrasonic humidifier create enough water for misting? or just increase the humidity?

I don't know if it should replace a misting or not- I think most people on here would say continue to mist, but- If you strategically place the humidifier so that the majority of the mist is aimed at some of the plants in his cage, it will create some drops of water on the leaves that he can lap up. The humidifier I got is Walgreens brand. It works great. Most pharmacies will have a few different brands ranging form as little as $15-20 up to $75-80. The one I got has a pretty decent output in my opinion. Check out the video I have on the thread https://www.chameleonforums.com/new-drainage-system-45871/. The very last cage on the end is a female Jackson's and I breifly get a shot of her humidifier in the video. I keep it pointed on some plants at the lower portion of the cage, so in theory, the upper part of the cage with her lighting is the 'warm end' of the spectrum and the lower part is the 'cooler end'.
 
That's a very nice setup. Gives me a couple of ideas. I am going to build my own setup as well, but it's only for one chameleon...
 
I think I can tell the difference now between a mating call and gaping from heat now. If they are over heating and right under the heat lamp, wouldn't their instinct tell them to get in the shade? Or should I not worry if he has his mouth open like that on occasion?
 
I think I can tell the difference now between a mating call and gaping from heat now. If they are over heating and right under the heat lamp, wouldn't their instinct tell them to get in the shade? Or should I not worry if he has his mouth open like that on occasion?

I am curious about this as well. Can anyone chime in with some experience?
 
I think they have conflicting needs. They need to bask in the "sunlight" but they are too hot...so they gape to cool down. You could try turning off the basking bulb but leave the UVB tube/bulb on. Or reduce the wattage of the basking bulb so that it's visible as the "sun" but not heating things up much.

If he occasionally gapes and you respond appropriately by cooling him down, then it's not a huge problem. If he's gaping daily, you need to rethink the set up.

This is not an animal that wants to be particularly warm. You may well need "cooling" strategies to get through the worst of the summer.
 
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