New Jackson's Chameleon
- Thread starter cantgetagoodsn
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cantgetagoodsn
Avid Member
so you think he's okay physically, he just doesn't have much to climb on? What kind of plant should I get for it? I think I've read hibiscus is a good one.
cantgetagoodsn
Avid Member
Also, I haven't noticed and droppings, and I have had him since Thursday. How often do they use the restroom? He does seem to be eating normal though.
E46M3
New Member
I think your alright man. I took my veiled 4-5 days to poop when i first got him. I would agree you do need at least one good live plant in there. I use the Pathos plant, when you get one make sure you get a nice big long one. I also use a hibiscus plant, a good sized one. My chameleon eats the flowers off that one from time to time.
cantgetagoodsn
Avid Member
I put in a hibiscus plant before work, came home and he was a MUCH more normal green 
I'm finishing his cage tomorrow pics of course will be posted, I think it's going to turn out very nice...
I'm finishing his cage tomorrow pics of course will be posted, I think it's going to turn out very nice...
Meximeleon
New Member
I would also add a pothos for more coverage. My jacksons loves her pothos.
chameleon
I have 2 jackson's so maybe i can help a little with the plants you should add some real in asap and not wait until bigger cage as it helps with humidity and you need more plants.More variety with the food also dust the food lightly with calcium.If you dont have a humidity gauge try invest in one the humidity should be at 50-70 day and 80 at night.65 degree to 78 degree in the day.Basking not to exceed 86 degrees.Nightime temp to 60 degrees if goes below need night bulb
I have 2 jackson's so maybe i can help a little with the plants you should add some real in asap and not wait until bigger cage as it helps with humidity and you need more plants.More variety with the food also dust the food lightly with calcium.If you dont have a humidity gauge try invest in one the humidity should be at 50-70 day and 80 at night.65 degree to 78 degree in the day.Basking not to exceed 86 degrees.Nightime temp to 60 degrees if goes below need night bulb
cantgetagoodsn
Avid Member
I put in a large Japanese Aralia. He loves it, plenty of coverage for him to move around and hide. I three artificial vines hanging at the top close to the basking spot.
Here's a pic:
The humidity stays at 50-75% depending on how long I am out of the apt for. The temp ranges from 70 on the lower mid area, to 86-87 RIGHT near the basking spot. 62-70 at night. He has been eating everyday, I am putting calcium on my crickets every other day. multivitamin twice a month. is this good? Or do you recommend a different supplement schedule?
He ate a few wax worms, but they all died. How long do yours last? I was told to keep them in the fridge.
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
Do you have any calcium with D3? I see that you have calcium and a multivitamin but you should be using three supplements. The calcium with the D3 should be used about twice a month as well as the multivitamin. The cage looks much better with the plant in it!!!! Once he starts pooping(if he hasnt already) they usually go like once a day or every other.
cantgetagoodsn
Avid Member
I'm using RepCal Herptivite for multivitamin, and Fluker's calciumhosphorus 2:1. It says it has vitamin D3 minimum 100,000 UI/pound. It also says daily use... opinions?
He seems to be pooping regularly. He is showing signs of shedding, but nothing yet...
hosphorus 2:1. It says it has vitamin D3 minimum 100,000 UI/pound. It also says daily use... opinions?He seems to be pooping regularly. He is showing signs of shedding, but nothing yet...
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
you should be using three supplements: Calcium without d/3 every to every other feeding, Calcium w/d3 two times a month and a multivitamin 2 times a months also. Most people on here to do not use Flukers, but some may. I am not saying dont use it, because I dont know anything about it. I use Rep-cal and a brand called Sticky Tongue Farms as many of the members do. Do not supplement with D3 every day or every other, it is waaaay too much D3 for your chameleon especially if you are taking him outdoors for sun(which I don't know if you are or not).
Lovereps
Avid Member
That particular Fluker's is no good for your cham
Fluker's makes another calcium supplement that might be suitable, though I found no ingredient list to tell you with certainty.
I can tell you that any Calcium with Phosphorus supplement is bad for your cham. You need phosphorus-free calcium because chams' diets consist of insects that have too much phosphorus already.
If you look at the Fluker's site, they state this about the supplement you are using:
The one with D3 for use once or twice a month (for a Jackson's)
The one without D3 for more frequent dusting.
Jackson's are what's called a " montane " species. Simply put, it means that their temperature, humidity and supplement requirements are different from other chams (such as panthers and veileds.)
What is good for a Veiled would lead to an early death for your Jackson's.
Montane chams can't handle as much vitamin and calcium supplementation as other chams.
For montanes only, some people will dust perhaps 2x a week with plain calcium, 1x per month with a vitamin powder and 1x or 2x a month with calcium with D3.
I don't know of anyone who recommends more supplementation than that for a Jackson's.
Feeding your feeder insects a healthy diet and "gutloading" them before feeding them to your cham is essential to your cham's health.
I've been using "Montane Cricket Crack" from SSimsswiSS as a gutload and can see why it's called Cricket Crack--they find it irresistible.
FWIW, I would suggest a somewhat lower wattage heat bulb for your Jackson's.
They really don't like it above the lower 80s at the hottest, but never seem to move themselves out of the too hot spot.
When your cham does poop, it will consist of 2 parts:
A white part, which is the urate and a black part which is actually the poop.
The urate is their pee, so to speak, and gives an excellent indication of whether or not your cham is getting enough water.
The urate will be snow white if he is drinking enough.
If he is not drinking enough, the urate will be pink or orange.
Jackson's are "shy drinkers".
In over a year, my Jackson's only drank in front of me once, when I first got him because he was somewhat dehydrated.
Please do get rid of the Calcium with Phosphorus immediately, rather than using it up.
Continued use of it will lead to MBD (Metabolic bone disease).
That Japanese Aralia looks like a very nice plant and it is safe for chameleons.
I'll look for one of those for my boy.
Fluker's makes another calcium supplement that might be suitable, though I found no ingredient list to tell you with certainty.
I can tell you that any Calcium with Phosphorus supplement is bad for your cham. You need phosphorus-free calcium because chams' diets consist of insects that have too much phosphorus already.
If you look at the Fluker's site, they state this about the supplement you are using:
Many people here use the 2 Rep-Cal calciums, which are both free of phosphorus:
The one with D3 for use once or twice a month (for a Jackson's)
The one without D3 for more frequent dusting.
Jackson's are what's called a " montane " species. Simply put, it means that their temperature, humidity and supplement requirements are different from other chams (such as panthers and veileds.)
What is good for a Veiled would lead to an early death for your Jackson's.
Montane chams can't handle as much vitamin and calcium supplementation as other chams.
For montanes only, some people will dust perhaps 2x a week with plain calcium, 1x per month with a vitamin powder and 1x or 2x a month with calcium with D3.
I don't know of anyone who recommends more supplementation than that for a Jackson's.
Feeding your feeder insects a healthy diet and "gutloading" them before feeding them to your cham is essential to your cham's health.
I've been using "Montane Cricket Crack" from SSimsswiSS as a gutload and can see why it's called Cricket Crack--they find it irresistible.
FWIW, I would suggest a somewhat lower wattage heat bulb for your Jackson's.
They really don't like it above the lower 80s at the hottest, but never seem to move themselves out of the too hot spot.
When your cham does poop, it will consist of 2 parts:
A white part, which is the urate and a black part which is actually the poop.
The urate is their pee, so to speak, and gives an excellent indication of whether or not your cham is getting enough water.
The urate will be snow white if he is drinking enough.
If he is not drinking enough, the urate will be pink or orange.
Jackson's are "shy drinkers".
In over a year, my Jackson's only drank in front of me once, when I first got him because he was somewhat dehydrated.
Please do get rid of the Calcium with Phosphorus immediately, rather than using it up.
Continued use of it will lead to MBD (Metabolic bone disease).
That Japanese Aralia looks like a very nice plant and it is safe for chameleons.
I'll look for one of those for my boy.
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
Sorry, for the incorrect info on supplementation. I did not realize that the Jackson's have a different supplement schedule than the panthers and veild's. See, that is why I love this forum. Learn something everyday!!!
cantgetagoodsn
Avid Member
Exactly what I needed. Thank you, I'm off to the store now. Very useful information with the urate color, It has been white from what I can see. He's only pooped a few times. Definitely don't want MBD, I have only dusted crickets with that stuff twice. Once with the RepCal vitamin so far.
I was using a 100w bulb I got used, but went to the store and got a 75w basking bulb. I'm going to get a 50w today because the temps up there have reached 87.5*ish. Right now it's 85.9* near basking (where is right now) and then 72.4* at the lower middle of the cage. At night it stays around 70-71 both the top and bottom. What I can I do to make it more of a gradient for when he's sleeping, I know it doesn't need to be hotter...
Lovereps
Avid Member
Carol5208, like you said, that's what makes these forums great.
If someone states something that isn't right, often someone will post a correction, but you really were not terribly wrong. It's just that the most frequent recommendations are as I posted.
When I first got my chams, I was given much less accurate info than what the folks here provided.
Fortunately, I wasn't told anything harmful , just not enough info.
Without the forum members, I would never have known my handsome Karma was dehydrating.
cantgetagoodsn, many people just use regular household incandescent bulbs for heat.
As for nighttime, montane species appreciate a 10 degree temperature drop and prefer even higher humidity than during the daytime.
That's because these are the conditions in the mountainous areas that they come from.
Some use a cool mist humidifier near their cham cages to increase the nighttime humidity, since a cool mist won't increase the temps.
I believe that Walgreens sells them for around 15 or 20 dollars.
If someone states something that isn't right, often someone will post a correction, but you really were not terribly wrong. It's just that the most frequent recommendations are as I posted.
When I first got my chams, I was given much less accurate info than what the folks here provided.
Fortunately, I wasn't told anything harmful , just not enough info.
Without the forum members, I would never have known my handsome Karma was dehydrating.
cantgetagoodsn, many people just use regular household incandescent bulbs for heat.
As for nighttime, montane species appreciate a 10 degree temperature drop and prefer even higher humidity than during the daytime.
That's because these are the conditions in the mountainous areas that they come from.
Some use a cool mist humidifier near their cham cages to increase the nighttime humidity, since a cool mist won't increase the temps.
I believe that Walgreens sells them for around 15 or 20 dollars.
cantgetagoodsn
Avid Member
Ok I will be getting that later this week after I get paid. What can I do to provide the range of 10 degrees at night.
It's only a 1-2 degree difference. Would the humdifier help at all with the range that I need?
It's only a 1-2 degree difference. Would the humdifier help at all with the range that I need?
iloveoveralls
New Member
wow I thought d3 for jacks were good. Ill stop using it so often
Lovereps
Avid Member
I guess the temperature drop is easier if you have a room air conditioner.
I honestly don't know how much of a cooling effect a cool mist humidifier provides.
Perhaps someone with many years of experience with montanes would reply.
Iloveoveralls, D3 is necessary, but if used too often, it leads to serious problems, so I'm glad to have helped you.
If you're interested in reading much more , here's a detailed thread about oversupplementation and its effects.
Especially good is post 18 by Kinyonga
https://www.chameleonforums.com/can-someone-help-31807/index2.html
I honestly don't know how much of a cooling effect a cool mist humidifier provides.
Perhaps someone with many years of experience with montanes would reply.
Iloveoveralls, D3 is necessary, but if used too often, it leads to serious problems, so I'm glad to have helped you.
If you're interested in reading much more , here's a detailed thread about oversupplementation and its effects.
Especially good is post 18 by Kinyonga
https://www.chameleonforums.com/can-someone-help-31807/index2.html
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