New but pretty knowledgeable...

[RoscoRescuer]

So, when I was younger in high school, I took care of a chameleon that was my science teacher's. The chameleon (named Chameleo) was very friendly and I truly enjoyed caring for him over long breaks in school. I've always wanted another one but just kind of brushed it off since I have kiddos now. This is going to sound bad and some of you may be turned off by it but during this Covid stuff, I had commented on a friend's post and she informed me that there was a male veiled chameleon in the juvenile/adult stage that had just been surrendered. After contacting the place, I decided this might just be the right time so I started building an enclosure and brushing up on all of my chameleon knowledge. I had to wait a month to get him anyways before his quarantine time was up. Now, that I have him, I love him. Although, I felt like the one I cared for in high school was easier. His enclosure was already together and he was very social. My little Rosco (who I have had for coming up on 3 weeks now) is a cranky little thing. Lol. Being an animal lover, I know that not all animals are the same and they come with all different kinds of personalities. I also know that it takes time for chameleons to trust since we humans look like a predator. I'm wondering if it will take longer for him since he has been shuffled around? He eats great. He eats about 6 to 7 large crickets a day and he loves horn worms (though I am currently out of those right now. I have ordered more). I have a fogger (that collects water on the screen and drips down) and a dripper in his enclosure and I mist his enclosure twice a day. When I mist, he freaks out like crazy. I do not spray him directly. I have the knob turned to a fine mist and most of the time spray on the screen above so water will drip down in case he doesn't get to the water in time. I even use spring water in his fogger and the a gallon of water that sits out, open, all day and night before I use it (so the chemicals with dissipate from the water, so I've read). I find that he sits on this one branch constantly. He very rarely moves around and he is very protective of his branch which I fully respect. I just want to make sure he isn't getting dehydrated. The lady who took him said that he ran from her when she misted and she was always worried that he wasn't getting enough to eat and was also in 1 of 2 places in his enclosure there just like he is here. He seems to really like his enclosure. I built it tall because I know that they like feeling high up. I just want to make sure I am doing right by him even though he is a little mister cranky pants. Lol. Any suggestions for me? Last time I gave him a shower, it did NOT go well. He has his own hibiscus bush that we brought inside and put in our bathtub and put him in the bush. I had already had the shower going and water temp good, when I put him in and after about 15 minutes, he tried to escape and almost fell out of the pot. Thank goodness I was right there watching the whole time. I'm not sure if I should do that with him now or not. I honestly am nervous to because it was such a traumatic event the first time, I would hate for either one of us to have to go through that again, as stupid as that sounds. He is pooping well, with his urates not super white but not even close to orange and a pellet at the end. I'm wondering if I may be stressing him out by wanting to make sure everything is perfect and I need to just give him several weeks to adjust. I have only had him out 3 times and the longer he seems to be here, the more cranky and aggressive he becomes. I can only imagine what he has been through and I am sure is not very trusting as it sounds like the gentleman who had him in the first place, did not work with him and then ended up giving him up. That is all I know about his past.

 

[PabloTheCham]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome to the forum. I do see some things that need to be changed. If you could answer the questions that Pablo the cham provided, a member can review all of your husbandry and make sure all is correct.

 

[RoscoRescuer]

Hi and welcome to the forum. I do see some things that need to be changed. If you could answer the questions that Pablo the cham provided, a member can review all of your husbandry and make sure all is correct.

Ok. I will tonight when I get home from my son's karate. If you don't mind me asking what seems to need to be changed? Thanks for the welcome! I'm excited to be a part of it. You all seem to be a great community!

 

[MissSkittles]

From your pics, I’m curious about what type of uvb you’re using and humidity levels. From what you said, there’s a couple of things like showering and behavior that make me curious about what you know, what you’re doing etc. From his history and my just wanting for all chameleons to have the best husbandry and lives possible, I believe the forum can help you make sure everything is spot on.

 

[RoscoRescuer]

From your pics, I’m curious about what type of uvb you’re using and humidity levels. From what you said, there’s a couple of things like showering and behavior that make me curious about what you know, what you’re doing etc. From his history and my just wanting for all chameleons to have the best husbandry and lives possible, I believe the forum can help you make sure everything is spot on.

That is exactly what I'm wanting as well. I do not know nearly as much as you guys here which is exactly why I joined. I want to make sure he is taken care of properly. I want him to have a good quality of life. ?

 

[RoscoRescuer]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

• Your Chameleon - Veiled, male, and roughly a year. A few weeks this Saturday?
• Handling - Only a few times?
• Feeding - Crickets, hornworms and I want to start getting silk worms (crickets are gut loaded) 6-8 a day, maybe 1 every other day for horn worm. Feeding in the morning. Gutloading with fruits and vegetables (all non toxic) Strawberries, mango, watermelon, carrots)
• Supplements - ZooMed reptile calcium without D3 every feeding, Fluker's Reti Vitamin Supplement ever 2 weeks, zoomed repti calcium with D3 every 2 weeks.
• Watering - Misting in the morning and afternoon for as long as I can before he freaks out, Coospider (brand) reptile fogger, and a dripper hand made. I don't really see him drink as much as I'd like.
• Fecal Description - Poops seem ok. The uurates were a very light yellow this morning but when I can offer a horn worm, it seems to help him stay hydrated. And no to parasites that I know of.
• History - Not much. Just that he was surrendered by a younger guy not married or kids.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - The cage is built out of 2 by 2's, screen on all sides (except the bottom) and it stands 6 and a half feet but his accessibility is 26 inches wide on all sides and 5 feet 10 inches high.
• Lighting - REPTI ZOO Dual Reptile Light Fixture for Reptile Dome UVB Light Fixture Dual Lamp Cap Combo Integration Design Heat Lighting Lamp Kit, CULLEN 2 Pack UVB Reptile Light Bulb/Lamp 10.0UVB Energy Saving Lamps Heat Lamp Basking Spot Lamp for Reptile Turtle Bearded Dragons and Amphibians with UV Tester Card (50UVB -13W), VIPpet UVB Reptile Light, UVA UVB Heat Lamp Bulb Bearded Dragon Accessories for Reptiles (Sliver) (White)
  
  
• Temperature - all that is in the humidity.
• Humidity - the humidity does not drop below 50% per the hydrometer and the temp range is about 95 at the high basking branch (that he sits on most of the time) and the bottom is 68 roughly depending on the temp in the house. Zoo Med Economy Analog Dual Thermometer and Humidity Gauge, 6 x 4".
• Plants - Yes. I have a pothos plant in the bottom.
• Placement - the enclosure is tucked in a corner in between the kitchen and dining room though we are bad and don't use the dining room much. There is vents but not directly above and I turn the air to 76 in the day and 72 at night.
• Location - We are in south eastern North Carolina on the coast.

 

[MissSkittles]

• Your Chameleon - Veiled, male, and roughly a year. A few weeks this Saturday?
• Handling - Only a few times?
• Feeding - Crickets, hornworms and I want to start getting silk worms (crickets are gut loaded) 6-8 a day, maybe 1 every other day for horn worm. Feeding in the morning. Gutloading with fruits and vegetables (all non toxic) Strawberries, mango, watermelon, carrots)
• Supplements - ZooMed reptile calcium without D3 every feeding, Fluker's Reti Vitamin Supplement ever 2 weeks, zoomed repti calcium with D3 every 2 weeks.
• Watering - Misting in the morning and afternoon for as long as I can before he freaks out, Coospider (brand) reptile fogger, and a dripper hand made. I don't really see him drink as much as I'd like.
• Fecal Description - Poops seem ok. The uurates were a very light yellow this morning but when I can offer a horn worm, it seems to help him stay hydrated. And no to parasites that I know of.
• History - Not much. Just that he was surrendered by a younger guy not married or kids.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - The cage is built out of 2 by 2's, screen on all sides (except the bottom) and it stands 6 and a half feet but his accessibility is 26 inches wide on all sides and 5 feet 10 inches high.
• Lighting - REPTI ZOO Dual Reptile Light Fixture for Reptile Dome UVB Light Fixture Dual Lamp Cap Combo Integration Design Heat Lighting Lamp Kit, CULLEN 2 Pack UVB Reptile Light Bulb/Lamp 10.0UVB Energy Saving Lamps Heat Lamp Basking Spot Lamp for Reptile Turtle Bearded Dragons and Amphibians with UV Tester Card (50UVB -13W), VIPpet UVB Reptile Light, UVA UVB Heat Lamp Bulb Bearded Dragon Accessories for Reptiles (Sliver) (White)
  
  
• Temperature - all that is in the humidity.
• Humidity - the humidity does not drop below 50% per the hydrometer and the temp range is about 95 at the high basking branch (that he sits on most of the time) and the bottom is 68 roughly depending on the temp in the house. Zoo Med Economy Analog Dual Thermometer and Humidity Gauge, 6 x 4".
• Plants - Yes. I have a pothos plant in the bottom.
• Placement - the enclosure is tucked in a corner in between the kitchen and dining room though we are bad and don't use the dining room much. There is vents but not directly above and I turn the air to 76 in the day and 72 at night.
• Location - We are in south eastern North Carolina on the coast.

Ok...looks pretty good. You could add more to gut loading...mainly greens, squash, sweet potato, etc. Supplements are good. Misting...I wonder if in his past someone used to spray him directly. Just keep misting gently around his plants for a couple of minutes each time. Don’t worry if you don’t see him drink and I suggest not trying to watch. Lol Some chams are very secret about drinking. As long as his urates are looking good, I wouldn’t worry about it.
It’s never a bad idea to have a fecal check for parasites done. I have no idea about your uvb type. Is it a coil bulb or a linear one? It’s recommended to use a linear T5 ho with either a Repti Sun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Humidity is good...during the day you want to keep it between 30-50%. At night it can get higher. Temps are good. You will want to eventually get a digital thermometer/hygrometer. The one you have isn’t always so accurate and they don’t last long.
Plants...Pothos is my favorite! You need to add more though. You need to provide him with plenty of plant cover so he has a place to retreat and hide when he feels the need. If you need a little guidance in which plants are safe, this may help.https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
If you check out that website, you’ll find a treasure trove of information about cham keeping...the what, how and why. There’s also a link to podcasts.
Showering...no...just don’t. Unless you have a completely dehydrated chameleon, showering is only going to cause stress. Not to mention, what We think is a nice lukewarm temperature can be scalding to them.
Behaviors...lol...you have a veiled! While some are sweet and friendly, most are just grumpy. You can build trust with him though, usually thru hand feeding, sitting in front of his enclosure with the door open so he won’t see you as a threat, etc. It’s a process and takes time. Depending on your guy’s past, it may take a long time or may never happen.
If you check out the forum sponsor’s there’s a few that sell silkworms. You may also want to try some Dubia roaches which are really good staple feeders too.
Again, welcome!

 

[MissSkittles]

Oops! Gotta add more. The Coospider that you have is a Fogger, not a mister. Fogging isn’t at all a good idea during the day. The humidity of it plus heat can cause respiratory infection. Misting can be anything from a simple spray bottle to a Mist King automated unit.

 

[RoscoRescuer]

Oops! Gotta add more. The Coospider that you have is a Fogger, not a mister. Fogging isn’t at all a good idea during the day. The humidity of it plus heat can cause respiratory infection. Misting can be anything from a simple spray bottle to a Mist King automated unit.

Ok! Great to know. So ditch the fogger completely? I do have a hibiscus plant that I bought specifically for him but I was hoping to have that as his outdoor plant. Seeing as we have a lot of trust building to work on (if any at all), I will just put it in his enclosure. If we ever work up to that point of him trusting me, I can always take it out. I also bought a little itty bitty rubber Tree plant for his enclosure as well. It's just still a bit too little. This is what the uvb bulb says in its description:

1.Power (W): 13w,26w
2.UVB: 10.0UVB
3.Voltage: 120V
4.Size: 1.7*1.7*5in(4.4*4.4*12.9cm).
5.Hours:The uvb reptile light can last up 8000 hours
6.Package Included:2 x10.0UVB reptile light,1xUV Tester Card

Functions:

-Optimal UVB & UVA output,no harmful UVC output
-Provides necessary UVB rays for optimal calcium metabolism
-Improve reptile appetite & body color deposition
-Promote the mating behavior of adult reptiles during the mating period.

 

[RoscoRescuer]

Ok...looks pretty good. You could add more to gut loading...mainly greens, squash, sweet potato, etc. Supplements are good. Misting...I wonder if in his past someone used to spray him directly. Just keep misting gently around his plants for a couple of minutes each time. Don’t worry if you don’t see him drink and I suggest not trying to watch. Lol Some chams are very secret about drinking. As long as his urates are looking good, I wouldn’t worry about it.
It’s never a bad idea to have a fecal check for parasites done. I have no idea about your uvb type. Is it a coil bulb or a linear one? It’s recommended to use a linear T5 ho with either a Repti Sun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Humidity is good...during the day you want to keep it between 30-50%. At night it can get higher. Temps are good. You will want to eventually get a digital thermometer/hygrometer. The one you have isn’t always so accurate and they don’t last long.
Plants...Pothos is my favorite! You need to add more though. You need to provide him with plenty of plant cover so he has a place to retreat and hide when he feels the need. If you need a little guidance in which plants are safe, this may help.https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
If you check out that website, you’ll find a treasure trove of information about cham keeping...the what, how and why. There’s also a link to podcasts.
Showering...no...just don’t. Unless you have a completely dehydrated chameleon, showering is only going to cause stress. Not to mention, what We think is a nice lukewarm temperature can be scalding to them.
Behaviors...lol...you have a veiled! While some are sweet and friendly, most are just grumpy. You can build trust with him though, usually thru hand feeding, sitting in front of his enclosure with the door open so he won’t see you as a threat, etc. It’s a process and takes time. Depending on your guy’s past, it may take a long time or may never happen.
If you check out the forum sponsor’s there’s a few that sell silkworms. You may also want to try some Dubia roaches which are really good staple feeders too.
Again, welcome!

Though I do not hand feed right now, I dust his food (crickets mostly) and place them in a cup to dump into his feeder run that I made. I always show him the crickets in the cup before I dump them and lately, he has really gotten defensive while I try to dump them in but he sits very close to where I need to dump the crickets in at. He usually calms down by the time I'm trying to get the last cricket holding on for dear life in the bottom of the cup. Lol. I'm beginning to wonder if he has just really staked flame to his enclosure and is the typical "territorial "of it. I'm fine with him being grumpy. It just makes me nervous if I need to take him to the vet. Itll be an interesting experience. Lol. I'm really trying to work on the trust thing. Not overly but a little here and there. I do not at all want to push him. I will work at his pace. ?

 

[MissSkittles]

Ok! Great to know. So ditch the fogger completely? I do have a hibiscus plant that I bought specifically for him but I was hoping to have that as his outdoor plant. Seeing as we have a lot of trust building to work on (if any at all), I will just put it in his enclosure. If we ever work up to that point of him trusting me, I can always take it out. I also bought a little itty bitty rubber Tree plant for his enclosure as well. It's just still a bit too little. This is what the uvb bulb says in its description:

1.Power (W): 13w,26w
2.UVB: 10.0UVB
3.Voltage: 120V
4.Size: 1.7*1.7*5in(4.4*4.4*12.9cm).
5.Hours:The uvb reptile light can last up 8000 hours
6.Package Included:2 x10.0UVB reptile light,1xUV Tester Card

Functions:

-Optimal UVB & UVA output,no harmful UVC output
-Provides necessary UVB rays for optimal calcium metabolism
-Improve reptile appetite & body color deposition
-Promote the mating behavior of adult reptiles during the mating period.

You can use the Fogger at night for natural hydration, which is explained in a chameleon breeder podcast. At night when it’s cool, you can let your humidity go as high as 100%. Hibiscus need a lot of light, so unless you are going to add a grow light to your enclosure, it’s best left outside or even in front of a really sunny window. I really am clueless about various lighting. Perhaps @nightanole can offer better feedback about your light.

Though I do not hand feed right now, I dust his food (crickets mostly) and place them in a cup to dump into his feeder run that I made. I always show him the crickets in the cup before I dump them and lately, he has really gotten defensive while I try to dump them in but he sits very close to where I need to dump the crickets in at. He usually calms down by the time I'm trying to get the last cricket holding on for dear life in the bottom of the cup. Lol. I'm beginning to wonder if he has just really staked flame to his enclosure and is the typical "territorial "of it. I'm fine with him being grumpy. It just makes me nervous if I need to take him to the vet. Itll be an interesting experience. Lol. I'm really trying to work on the trust thing. Not overly but a little here and there. I do not at all want to push him. I will work at his pace. ?

I use silkworms when I hand feed as I’m not a big fan of holding other bugs. I place one on the back of my hand and slowly offer it near my cham. I once tried hornworms and the darned thing started chewing on me. Patience will be your friend. Yes, you are right! That is his home and you are not invited into it. Lol. My chams trust me enough to allow me to stand in front of their enclosures with doors open but the minute I need to water their plants or clean up, I get hissed and lunged at. They do know and are chill when I have food. As you have little idea what your guy has experienced in his past, all you can do is give him time. You are most definitely on the right path and I’m looking forward to seeing more of you around the forum.

 

[RoscoRescuer]

You can use the Fogger at night for natural hydration, which is explained in a chameleon breeder podcast. At night when it’s cool, you can let your humidity go as high as 100%. Hibiscus need a lot of light, so unless you are going to add a grow light to your enclosure, it’s best left outside or even in front of a really sunny window. I really am clueless about various lighting. Perhaps @nightanole can offer better feedback about your light.



I use silkworms when I hand feed as I’m not a big fan of holding other bugs. I place one on the back of my hand and slowly offer it near my cham. I once tried hornworms and the darned thing started chewing on me. Patience will be your friend. Yes, you are right! That is his home and you are not invited into it. Lol. My chams trust me enough to allow me to stand in front of their enclosures with doors open but the minute I need to water their plants or clean up, I get hissed and lunged at. They do know and are chill when I have food. As you have little idea what your guy has experienced in his past, all you can do is give him time. You are most definitely on the right path and I’m looking forward to seeing more of you around the forum.

Thank you! I am more than thrilled to be here with you guys. I have a feeling that the guy may have bit off more than he could chew and couldn't do it anymore since Rosco was surrendered as juvenile. I'm anxious to have a good "relationship" with him but I am more than willing to be patient with him. I love him to pieces. I'm sure going from a home with bachelors to a home with 2 boys (14 and 8) and 2 dogs. He will be just fine. I won't ever give up on him so I know he just needs a while to adjust. I just don't know the fine line between the adjustment period and illness. With him still being so new, my goal is to keep stress levels down and health up! ? I just love my grumpy little guy. Does he seem the right size for a juvenile turning to adult? I'm just wondering. I've seen bigger but I know that doesn't mean much.

 

[MissSkittles]

It’s really hard to gauge size from a pic plus my adult chams are females, which are smaller. My male is still a baby. Your guy looks to be mature, but he may still have some growing to do. The only thing I see that is a tad off is his casque. It almost has a look like it’s started to pull in, which is a sign of mbd. If his husbandry was off or not consistent before, that could be a cause. Maybe @Beman can answer if your uvb is correct to make sure he doesn’t get mbd. Chams tend to hide signs of illness until they are really ill. Sleeping during the day, falling, abnormal bends to limbs, not eating, spending time on enclosure floor or low in enclosure all the time, lethargy, poor feeding aim...all are among common signs of illness.

 

[nightanole]

REPTI ZOO Dual is a compact fluorescent design. They are useless for chameleons. Great for "tanks" that are only 12-18" tall, and anoles and stuff can bask directly under the uvb bulbs. But they are useless past 3-4" away from the bulb.

Just get a T5HO hood that is the length of your cage, and use a 6%/5.0 bulb. You can recycle the repti zoo into a basking bulb holder.

 

[RoscoRescuer]

REPTI ZOO Dual is a compact fluorescent design. They are useless for chameleons. Great for "tanks" that are only 12-18" tall, and anoles and stuff can bask directly under the uvb bulbs. But they are useless past 3-4" away from the bulb.

Just get a T5HO hood that is the length of your cage, and use a 6%/5.0 bulb. You can recycle the repti zoo into a basking bulb holder.

When you say, "You can recycle the repti zoo into a basking bulb holder.", I am assuming you mean the basking bulb into a dome fixture? And what is the difference between T5 and T8?

 

[RoscoRescuer]

It’s really hard to gauge size from a pic plus my adult chams are females, which are smaller. My male is still a baby. Your guy looks to be mature, but he may still have some growing to do. The only thing I see that is a tad off is his casque. It almost has a look like it’s started to pull in, which is a sign of mbd. If his husbandry was off or not consistent before, that could be a cause. Maybe @Beman can answer if your uvb is correct to make sure he doesn’t get mbd. Chams tend to hide signs of illness until they are really ill. Sleeping during the day, falling, abnormal bends to limbs, not eating, spending time on enclosure floor or low in enclosure all the time, lethargy, poor feeding aim...all are among common signs of illness.

Yes MissSkittles. My gut feeling is just that. I wonder if the guy who had him before, just didn't know enough or have the time, patience and money to keep up with him and his needs. I most definitely want to do this right and for Rosco to have as well of a quality of life as possible. My animals are so important to me and I love them like my family.

 

[MissSkittles]

I think we all started out with a double dome light with a coil uvb bulb. I use one side for basking light and the other is great to use for a plant grow light.
Sadly I think many are under the belief or told by pet stores who haven’t a clue that chameleons are easy and have minimal needs. Some bite the bullet and put in the work and money to keep their cham properly, while others for whatever reasons can’t or don’t. At least the person who had your guy understood that he couldn’t care for him properly and surrendered him. So, kudos to him and kudos and congratulations to you.

 

[RoscoRescuer]

I think we all started out with a double dome light with a coil uvb bulb. I use one side for basking light and the other is great to use for a plant grow light.
Sadly I think many are under the belief or told by pet stores who haven’t a clue that chameleons are easy and have minimal needs. Some bite the bullet and put in the work and money to keep their cham properly, while others for whatever reasons can’t or don’t. At least the person who had your guy understood that he couldn’t care for him properly and surrendered him. So, kudos to him and kudos and congratulations to you.

Thank you!!!! I am over the moon about him. Lol. Crabby self and all. Hahahaha. I feel like some people might hear my story and feet like it was an impulsive decision to rescue him but I felt like it was meant to be! Everything happens for a reason. If he will ever trust me enough to let me handle him comfortably, I'll probably stop breathing from excitement. Lol.

 

[nightanole]

When you say, "You can recycle the repti zoo into a basking bulb holder.", I am assuming you mean the basking bulb into a dome fixture? And what is the difference between T5 and T8?

Yes the basking bulb into the dome

T5 fluorescent tubeis 33% more efficient per watt vs a T8. A "HO" is double the wattage of a standard. So a T5HO fluorescent puts out triple the light of your common fluorescent.