Very hard for me to determine if he’s too thin or not. Are you able to get some better pics - preferably without the screen in the way? If you can’t do it without risking stressing him (if you just got him), don’t worry about it. Instead, let me give you this.
Also this is my first post just joined
O sorry!!! It didn’t show me that anyone responded to this. Ignore lol
Hi and welcome.
I would like to see some better pics of your enclosure too please. That you don’t need to disturb your cutie for. It’s best to get a full shot that includes the top/lights, the bottom floor and then we can see everything in between. Like this, but showing more of the floor.
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You aren’t a bother at all.
I usually hop on and off of here a few times a day…usually. I want people to succeed in keeping their chameleon happy and healthy, and sometimes a little, or a lot of help is needed. From what I can see of your guy, he looks good. He’s well fleshed out and looks to be a healthy size. Hard to determine age since he looks to be near or full grown.
Hi again, I probably am going to add more branches into his enclosure. I figured I should since I feel like it’s somewhat empty. I will hopefully add them soon, maybe today or in a couple of days? I’ll post what his enclosure looks like then.You aren’t a bother at all.
Let’s talk about your enclosure. You do need to add many more branches or vines. They can be hard to hang, but there are some easy enough solutions. There are Dragon Ledges https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/ which are awesome. I’ve been using garden trellis, which has been quite effective. Some create a scaffold structure by adhering branches to the corners of the frame. I’ve done all three, and if you want a bit of guidance on how, just ask. I use natural branches that I’ve scavenged wherever I can find them. Oak is great to use. Just avoid pine, eucalyptus and other woods with heavy sap or odor. I wash with dish soap, rinse very well and dry in the sun. No need to remove bark, bake, bleach or anything else. Just keep in mind that nature is not sterile.
Your plants will do much better if you provide a special plant light for them. There is the Arcadia Jungle Dawn which so many use and s fantastic. But unless you’re going for hibiscus and other tropical plants that need lots of sun, you can get away with a 35w screw in plant light or similar. Some plants are better suited than others. Pothos is king when it comes to chameleon enclosures. You can have nothing but pothos if you want…your chameleon won’t care and neither will anyone here. Tradescantia zebrina is another great plant along with other common houseplants like spider plant and philodendron. This will help you. https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/ You basically want to create a forest edge type environment, although I think of it more as creating similar to a tree limb. Hopefully your uvb is a T5 with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%. You want a basking area about 8-9” directly below and then lots of big leafy plants to provide shade, hiding spots, places to drink collected water off, etc. If you place a pothos on the floor of your enclosure and train it to grow upwards, the leaves will grow bigger. You already see how I set up an enclosure for one of my panthers. Of course the pic is from when it was freshly set up and hadn’t settled yet. Often I do have plants that just don’t do well and others (usually pothos) that go crazy. Also, I do encourage if you have the space and ability to provide your guy a double sized enclosure, to do it. Our fella like to do routine patrols and can be quite active. However, I’ve found even my girls use all of their extra space too.
Now let’s talk a bit about temps, humidity and supplements. Tell me what you’ve got. Also, what are you feeding, how much, how often and how are you caring for the feeder bugs?
Sounds like you’ve got a good grasp on things so far. I’ll probably tell you things you might already know, so just smile and nod if you need to.
The minimum size enclosure for adult chameleons is 2x2x4’, so as long as you have that, it’s fine. I just like encouraging people to go larger if they can. 
Hi again, and you are correct that I don’t measure temp and humidity yet. I’m also kinda confused by it. Also, should I hand mist his cage? But, the local pet stores near me don’t sell humidity measurements I don’t think. Also, I forgot to include vitamins and supplements. I give him Repashy calcium plus and Rep-Cal Herptivite multivitamins. I have a petco near me and they have silkworms in stock so I probably will get some for him there. My enclosure size for him is 2x2x4. Today in my neighborhood there is somebody giving away a large thick stick that he apparently cut from a tree so I will also add that to his enclosure. Anything else I should add?Sounds like you’ve got a good grasp on things so far. I’ll probably tell you things you might already know, so just smile and nod if you need to.
Keep adding branches and make sure that they are of varied diameter to keep those mitten feet muscles in top shape. My personal rule is to go as thick as my loppers can cut thru. I have no trees, but my neighbors do and get them trimmed regularly. They are probably used to seeing me scavenge thru their trimmings pile and dragging limbs across the street.
It sounds like you don’t measure temps or humidity yet. It is important to know both. Ideal daytime temps for a mature male veiled is about 85. At night you want a good temp drop and if you can get it below 68-70, perfect. Ideal daytime humidity is between 30-50%. If you are able to achieve that perfect night time temp below at least 68, you can run a humidifier at night to boost humidity all the way.
For feeding, it would be good to add more variety. For many of us it takes a bit to get used to the idea of roaches, but they are great feeders. Dubia and discoid are quite easy to keep and adults are unable to climb slick surfaces and don’t fly even though they have wings. Silkworms are my favorite feeder and are very nutritious and hydrating. It can be a bit challenging to find them available. Fram’s chams sells them. Grasshoppers are a great feeders, but only a couple of sources for them. Here is one. https://dragonhoppers.com/ They are a bit meatier, so one hopper is equivalent to maybe 2 crickets or roaches or so (depending on size). It’s fine if your guy doesn’t like wax worms. They are just fatty treats, like reptile candy. Most do like superworms for treats. Those are fatty and addictive. Hornworms do have some calcium in them, but are primarily hydrating treats only. You can feed the moths, but it possibly could be too large for your guy to eat.
The orange cubes are ok for hydrating your feeder insects, but not great for nutrition. The healthier your bugs are, the more nutritious they are. Fresh veggies, greens and a bit of fruit are great to feed them. There are some commercial preparations that are decent, like Repashy Bug Burger.
For supplements, you want to use a phosphorus free calcium without D3 lightly dusted at every feeding. While there are several different ways to provide vitamins and D3, the easiest and most common that we suggest is to use either Repashy calcium plus LoD or ReptiVite with D3 one feeding every other week (or twice a month if you prefer).
Sorry if I have told you stuff you already know. I can be like a mother hen.
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These are both vitamins and using that particular Repashy daily is going to overdose on vitamins D3 and A. Both are fat soluble, so aren’t quickly eliminated in the body and can build up to toxic levels. You need a phosphorus-free calcium without D3. Repashy Supercal is a good one and doesn’t clump like many do, but the Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3 or similar is good too. Most of the chain pet stores in my area don’t even carry calcium without D3, so do be careful and read the labels. The Repashy Calcium Plus (the one with the leopard gecko on the label) is more for creatures like leopard geckos who don’t get much or any sun/uvb and contains higher levels of vitamins for them. The Calcium Plus LoD (has a Jackson’s chameleon on the label) is the ideal one for chameleons. It’s a combination multivitamin and D3 and is used just twice a month or once every other week (whichever you prefer). The reason why this Repashy and the ReptiVite with D3 are preferred is because they have preformed vitamin A (retinoids) which we know chameleons are able to utilize. The other form of vitamin A is proformed (carotenoids) and we aren’t sure they can process it effectively. The Herptivite contains proformed A and isn’t needed at all.
You want to use the calcium without D3 at every feeding. The multivitamin/D3 combo you use for only one feeding, every other week or two times a month, whichever is easiest for you. Lightly dust his feeders with the supplement. You don’t want or need them to look like powdered donuts. I put a scant sprinkle of supplement in the bottom of a tall deli cup and then put my feeders in. As they move around, they dust themselves perfectly.
