Help... here's all our baby's info

[MarcuslovesSusan]

Chameleon Info: SOBE
Blue bar ambilobe, thinking he's a boy, approx 3months old.
We've had him for a month.
We handle him every couple days. Usually for about 15 minute periods.

Feeders-We feed him crickets primarily; 3-5 a day. We gut-load them with "Fluckers" orange cubes.

Supplements- We use "Sticky Tongue Farms" calcium/mineral supplement (phosphorous free with vitamin d3) every day dusting the crickets and we also use Rep-Cal Herptivite (with Beta Carotene) once a week.
Watering - We use hand misting as our primary water source. We mist 5-7 times a day for 30 seconds. Yes, we see him drinking up the beads of water.
Fecal Description - His poop is usually brown and somewhat solid with a white tip and no we have never had him tested for parasites.
History - We have had a couple hiccups with our baby, Sobe thus far. Nothing too extreme. 1 He seems to favor one of his eyes over the other. He will use that other eye at times, but it almost appears less full in comparison with the other; we contacted where we bought him- LLL REPTILE, plus researched! They recommended us giving him a kind of sauna for 10-15 minutes (warm, wet paper towels in a small plastic enclosure with holes). They also had us come in to the store and they put ointment on his eye. Seems he still favors the one eye, but we aren't sure whether or not things periodically irritate it or what.. He has seen the vet for his first check up, but due to the fact that we had cleaned his cage we didn't get a fecal sample, plus the vet didn't mention we needed to get one until very short before our apt.
Cage Info:
We have a 16 x 16 x 30 screen cage
Lighting - We are using a ZOOMED REPTISUN fluorescent 5.0 UVB bulb in a ZOOMED naturalistic terranium hood for 10-12 hours a day (turning off at night), we also use a 100W ceramic heat bulb in a clamp lamp, 24/7, never turning it off.
Temperature - Our cage floor is usually between 70-75 F, his basking point is usually between 85-90 F. The lowest overnight temperture is 65 F. We measure the tempertures with two seperate thermometers that remain in the cage.
Humidity - 40-70% humidity, avg 55% humidity. We check the humidity with a hygro thermometer that is located near the base of the cage. We are using hand misting as the main means of creating a more humid climate for him.
Plants - We are using a live Hibiscus plant along with other fake plants. We just switched to the hibiscus about a week and a half ago from a live ficcus plant.
Placement - Our cage is in our bedroom, in a corner. We do have a ceiling fan, but have probably only used it a handful of times since we've had him, for short periods of time. The cage is located about 5ft above the ground.
Location - San Diego, California.

Current Problem - He has been sleeping for approximately 3 days, waking up for brief moments, then returning to his slumber. He is responsive, for ex, if we tap the cage or touch him, he will respond, but he doesn't seem to ever fully wake up. He is somewhat lethargic and comes off depressed almost. Not his normal, active-self
He also hasn't eaten these past couple days, we haven't witnessed him drinking up the water beads as he normally does, and we haven't seen any new feces.

THIS ALL SEEMED TO OCCUR AFTER HIS FIRST MEAL WORM DINNER, COULD THAT HAVE ANY RELATION? WE HAVE SEEN A NOTICEABLE DIGRESSION SINCE HE ATE THE MEALWORMS. HE ATE TWO WORMS 3 DAYS AGO.
!@#$ LIKE WE SAID, FIRST MEAL WORM IN HIS LIFE... ??

HELP!

 

[Julirs]

Unless something was wrong with the mealworms, I doubt that has anything to do with it. I fear your temperatures and lighting very well might have something to do with it. It sounds like you are using a compact bulb. THese are known to cause eye issues. Additionally, you are using a very powerful ceramic heater 24/7 and your temps are way too high. If he has been sleeping for 3 days, this could be a lost cause. I would get him into the VET asap. For now, turn off all of your lights and heat. Your temps are WAY TOO HIGH. For a 3 month old anything you should have temps in the basking spot in the low 80's. Ceramic heaters are not recommended for chameleons. Chameleons associate white light with basking heat. They also NEED a night temp drop so unless your house temps are falling below 60 there is no need for heat at night.

 

[ferretinmyshoes]

Most of your husbandry looks okay, although you need to change your gutloading to include fresh fruits and veggies (see the link in my signature) because those orange cubes are mostly water and barely any nutrients. The calcium with D3 should not be given every day, you need to get a calcium without D3 to use every day and cut down the D3 to twice a month. Those are very important concepts for a growing chameleon.

As for the eyes, is that a CFL or linear UVB light? The reptisun CFLs (the short coil bulbs) can be too bright and emit too much UVB causing eye problems that can be permanent if not fixed quickly. It seems to be fine one day and then suddenly they're affected. Turn it off asap if it is a CFL and get a linear bulb. That would be step one because that's a potentially easy fix if that's the problem. And a 100W heat bulb sounds much too powerful for that age. Maybe someone else has some advice to offer...

 

[Elizadolots]

Seconding what Julirs says about temps. While that basking temp might be good for an adult, it's warm for a baby. Also, as noted, they benefit from a significant temperature drop. It's just not that cold here!