Hellbeckons
New Member
Hi, I have had my chameleon for about a month now he is probably about 4 months old. He has only eaten about 20 crickets since I have gotten him. He seems to have an extremely reduced appetite help would be appreciated.
Help chameleon not eating!
- Thread starter Hellbeckons
- Start date
Brokaylacham
Established Member
omg only twenty? Theyre supposed to have like 12 a day. I hope your cham is okay.
Hellbeckons
New Member
- Chameleon - Veiled, probably male, about 4 months of age, has been in my care for a month now
- Handling - Only once
- o feed crickets and superworms. 10 crickets and 1 superworm. I try to feed every day. I use Flukers orange cube and fruits and veggies to gut load.
- Supplements - I am using Rep-Cal Herptivite multivitamin and National Gepgraphic calcium+D3 powder. I dust with both about every week.
- Watering - I mist his cage 3-4 times a day so he can drink of the leaves. I mist for about 5 minutes each mist. I have not seen my chameleon drink because he is to scared of me.
- Fecal Description - His poop is white and brown. As far as I know he has not been tested for parasites.
- History - Got him from a pet store when he was a bit younger.
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - A screen cage. Planning to put some glass on the sides to keep the humidity up. 18x18x36
- Lighting - I have a 5.0 Reptisun uvb bulb and a purple 75w day/night bulb. I turn them on when I wake up and off when I go to sleep.
- Temperature - Probably 80-90 not sure because I don't have a thermometer right now but one is coming in the mail tommorow. He seems fine because he is not turning black or brown like they do to absorb heat so thats why I think the tempature is fine.
- Humidity - Not sure. I mist him 3-4 times to keep it up. I live in a dry climate so thats why i'm thinking of covering it.
- Plants - I am not using any live plants but I am using a lot of fake plants.
- Placement - He is in my library which is in a low-mid traffic area. He is next to an air vent. The top of the cage is about 6 feet from the ground.
- Location - I am located in Arizona,USA
You can see his bones in the picture because he has not been eating.
I would add greens such as dandelion greens, kale, endive, escarole, collards and veggies such as squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potatoes, carrots, etc to what you feed/gutload the insects with and drop the orange cubes.
Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous it's important to dust the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium powder at almost every feeding.
It's recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB at will.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources won't build up in the system like prEformed sources will so this leaves it up to you to decide if/when your chameleon needs prEformed vitamin A.
I would get rid of the purple bulb and use a regular white household incandescent bulb of a wattage that produces a basking temperature in the low to mid 80's F.
Imwould also recommend that you use non toxic real plants since veileds nibble on greenery and you can actually give them the same greens, veggies and fruits that I recommend you feed/gutload the crickets, superworms, etc.
Greens such as dandelion greens, kale, endive, escarole, collards, and veggies such as zucchini, squash, carrots, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc and a bit of fruit such as apples, pears, melon, berries, etc.
I would set up a dripper too.
What size are the insects? Will they fit in the chameleons mouth easily?
It's important that you provide the right basking temperature so that the chameleon can digest it's food properly.
Do you use a substrate?
Some of these things may be playing a part in the eating...or not eating rather...but there may be other reason s for it.
Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous it's important to dust the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium powder at almost every feeding.
It's recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB at will.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources won't build up in the system like prEformed sources will so this leaves it up to you to decide if/when your chameleon needs prEformed vitamin A.
I would get rid of the purple bulb and use a regular white household incandescent bulb of a wattage that produces a basking temperature in the low to mid 80's F.
Imwould also recommend that you use non toxic real plants since veileds nibble on greenery and you can actually give them the same greens, veggies and fruits that I recommend you feed/gutload the crickets, superworms, etc.
Greens such as dandelion greens, kale, endive, escarole, collards, and veggies such as zucchini, squash, carrots, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc and a bit of fruit such as apples, pears, melon, berries, etc.
I would set up a dripper too.
What size are the insects? Will they fit in the chameleons mouth easily?
It's important that you provide the right basking temperature so that the chameleon can digest it's food properly.
Do you use a substrate?
Some of these things may be playing a part in the eating...or not eating rather...but there may be other reason s for it.
Hellbeckons
New Member
I do put some fruit and veggies in his cage sometimes and the vitamin powder does have betacarotene. I do use coconut fiber as the substrate. The insects are small enough to fit in his mouth because when he does eat he has no issues. I will try to get some live plants. Thanks.
Hellbeckons
New Member
He is eating fine now. I can no longer see his ribs! I got a stronger light. I guess it was not hot enough.
