Giving injections - Do his arms look swollen / skin saggy or am I paranoid?

* * he’s eating in this pic, so the whole silly face situation is not part of my concern; he’s just a goon

So I’ve been known to be paranoid, but also I feel like better safe than sorry? I’m looking at him today and thinking skin looks saggy /dry/more wrinkly than normal, and his front legs almost look human like in the musculature? Maybe some localized swelling? (He’s getting injections, more on that below).

Background: He’s a young (less than 6 months) Jackson xanth who I got from petco (I know, shame) 2 weeks ago. 2x2x4 reptibteeze, drinks and eats lots (but is addicted to supers at the moment), and overall husbandry is flawless (minus needing to upgrade to linear bulb) according to the exotic vet. We have been there twice in the past 2 weeks to take care of an RI he came with, and im injecting antibiotics (attached image) in one of his front legs alternating every other day.

I wanted to check here before I email pics to my vet. They just basically said I can email them pix or vids anytime for free consult (I guess hitting the $700 milestone has its perks?). But I want to avoid bombarding them unless I’m fairly certain there’s an issue. Also tbh I trust this forum a LOT, and my vet even said it’s a good idea to stay tuned on here 😂 So anyway let me know what y’all think if his legs/skin /everything else look normal and if anyone else has had to give injections and sees any similarities .
 

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Mendez

Chameleon Enthusiast
From the picture, your jackson's chameleon looks fine. His eyes are very nice, not sunken in at all. This tells us that he is well hydrated (very nice job). I can't see any unusual wrinkling, and since he is well hydrated, any slight wrinkling here and there is not an issue. It's better to be slightly wrinkled than filled out like a balloon. Being bloated in appearance could be edema or obesity. His arms look fine as well to me. He may have some slight edema ( since pet stores don't know how to supplement them correctly). Just keep him well hydrated and utilize d3 and Vit A supplements once a month. I'm going to ask that you fill out the form below. It will make sure that everything is on point. As you said, better safe than sorry! This way we can make sure that your cham lives a nice, healthy, and long life!

Also, WELCOME to the wonderful hobby of chameleons! You'll find out that these forums are filled with wonderful people. Ask all the questions you want--that's what we are here for!

Your chameleon is, by the looks of it, much older than 6 months old. However, I will need a better picture, preferably a side profile shot to give a better estimate of his age. Also, this picture will give me a better idea if he has edema or not. Most edema, from over-supplementation, shows up as swelling around the neck region, but it can trickle down into the arms. He looks healthy, but this side profile picture will confirm it.

Fill out this form so we can make sure that your care parameters are optimized:

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

Mendez

Chameleon Enthusiast
More on the injections. If you see any swelling, it most likely isn't from the injections. The syringes don't carry much antibiotics to really cause any swelling. Make sure that you are massaging the area for at least 5 seconds after the injection to ensure that none of the medication squirts back out.

Also, how often are you feeding your cham? Wait, nvm, just answer this in the form I posted up above. Once you give us this information (along with the photo to confirm age), we can give you a scheduled diet to help ween your green alien off of superworms
 

Lindasjackson

Chameleon Enthusiast
you need to switch from the compact uvb bulb to the long linear one as soon as possible in order for him to get the right uvb strength for him to benefit from it. Most people here use a t5ho fixture with either an Arcadia 6% long linear bulb or a reptisun 5.0 long linear bulb and make sure his basking branch is at least 8-9 inches below the bulb. By the way, welcome! I hope your Cham gets well soon.
 
My apologies on the delayed response here. I somehow thought I hadn't gotten a response since and only now just saw this while poking around on the forum. Thanks so much for the tips and insight. Here is the rundown:

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? He is a male jackson’s xanth, over a year old (exotic vet said he’s a “toddler,” but here it seems like people are saying much older than a year and im inclined to believe that). in my care for just shy of 2 months now.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Every other day unfortunately, because I have been needing to medicate him. If it weren’t for that, I’d only handle him when bringing him back to his cage from the tree i let him hangout in outside his cage (by letting him crawl onto my arm willingly - never grabbing). That would be maybe once a week.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Initially he was addicted to superworms but as of this past 2 weeks he eats 3-5 medium dubia roaches or “rusty red/red runner” roaches daily. Every other day I try to swap out a couple of the roaches for a superworm or hornworm. Thinking next month i will go back to crickets and just keep alternating like that. I am considering ordering some mantids, silkworms, and grasshoppers too, just for some variety. I gutload with fresh fruits - papaya, blueberry, mustard greens, apple, carrots. Was using better bug gutloading diet but i got skeeved out by how fakey green it is when it gets wet and i want to reconsider if that’s necessary or if there’s a better alternative.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Calcium without d3 weekly, calcium with d3 monthly (both zoomed brand), and herpavite multivitamin (rep-cal) monthly.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I mist for 2-3 minutes just before lights-on (8 am) and 2-3 min just after lights off (8 pm). I turn on a humidifier in the room he’s in at night too because it’s very dry in my house (20-30). Just got a mistking that i need to finish setting up and that will make life much easier. He drinks only from a dropper though. He goes straight up to the tube and even puts his mouth on it like a straw. He drinks very leisurely for up to 20 min per day, sometimes upside down, sometimes crawling on the tube like a vine, sometimes letting it run all over his face. Never seen him drink dew off leaves. Hes just obsessed with the tube and i think that’s all he understands, because that’s all he had at petco. So tube it is.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? Droppings look normal. Mid-dark brown, solid, smooth ovals. Some little bug legs and fragments whatnot. Urates normal as well - totally white and like thick jello i guess? with small orange bit at the top and plenty of excess water pooling around it on the ground (bc he’s obsessed with drinking). Never been tested for parasites but i actually just ordered a home parasite fecal test from rainbow mealworms so hopefully that works.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. Nothing else to add other than that he was at 2 petcos before i had him. I actually keep in contact with the employees there about him, because they named him wesley (a name i kept for him), and actually did their best to care for him despite lack of understanding about chams (prob on the management level). They said he was transferred to them when he was already an adult, because he wasnt selling :(

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? 2x2x4 foot zoomed reptibreeze screened enclosure. Previously was in 16x16 (part of the terrible zoomed “chameleon kit”.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? 22” linear bulb (just recently upgraded to this with the help of feedback on the forum). It is a reptisun t5 ho 5.0 uvb . it is on from 8 am - 8 pm and rests right on top the cage in its fixture. Hes had this the past 2 weeks. Before this he had the bad little one that comes with the zoomed chameleon kit (basically didnt end up using anything that came in that kit).
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Basking spot was 80-85 until 2 weeks ago when i was advised otherwise by a breeder / AWESOME reptile store nearby me (they’re actually taking care of him this week while im away). She said thats way too hot for a jacksons and 70-75 is much better. So thats what we’re doing now. I believe her because they have successfully bred many chams, and the enclosures there were seriously top notch. Mid-cage has always been around 70, and bottom of cage 68-70 (day). Nighttime temps are 50-60. I use a digital thermometer/humidity guage (i have 3 of them placed at different levels in the cage with 1 affixed to his basking branch).
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Daytime humidity is 30-50. Nighttime 60-70 (i know 80-100 is ideal, but the vet said to reduce this while he’s recovering from the ri - this should be in 1 week when meds are done). Daytime i haven’t needed to do anything to maintain this humidity. Leaving his dropper on slow for about an hour, plus any remaining mist from the morning seem to be enough. At night is from the night misting and nearby humidifier. I have a coospider repti fogger just sitting unused because im nervous about this with his ri, but plan to use this nightly when he’s fully cleared the RI (and regularly clean it).
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? All live plants except 1 that i just removed from the cage. Otherwise we’ve got 1 trascantia zebra, 1 aloe vera, 1 hibiscus, and 2 trees - weeping fig and fichus benjamina.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? It’s next to a window that looks over some trees and rooftops with nothing busy below (3rd floor apartment). I moved it here from my living room because i always caught him staring out the window and thought he would like it. He definitely seems to like looking out the window but i try to keep an eye on signs of stress too. Close the curtain every night to prevent drafts. Top of cage is way higher than eye level and im 5’5. I’d say top of cage is 6’5. Very low traffic corner of my bedroom and i live alone so nobodys bothering him.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? brighton, ma

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. Possible weird / swollen-looking areas on chest and front legs (i was thinking this could be localized swelling due to the antibiotic injections i’ve been giving him). Also open to any/all unrelated or general husbandry tips and recommendations :)
 

Mendez

Chameleon Enthusiast
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? He is a male jackson’s xanth, over a year old (exotic vet said he’s a “toddler,” but here it seems like people are saying much older than a year and im inclined to believe that). in my care for just shy of 2 months now.
It's hard to say exactly how old he is due to potential subpar care before you got him. He does look over a year old.

  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Every other day unfortunately, because I have been needing to medicate him. If it weren’t for that, I’d only handle him when bringing him back to his cage from the tree i let him hangout in outside his cage (by letting him crawl onto my arm willingly - never grabbing). That would be maybe once a week.
Yeah, no worries at all. I'm just happy that he's getting his medication even if he isn't too happy himself! It's got to be done. So well done on getting him medicated!

  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Initially he was addicted to superworms but as of this past 2 weeks he eats 3-5 medium dubia roaches or “rusty red/red runner” roaches daily. Every other day I try to swap out a couple of the roaches for a superworm or hornworm. Thinking next month i will go back to crickets and just keep alternating like that. I am considering ordering some mantids, silkworms, and grasshoppers too, just for some variety. I gutload with fresh fruits - papaya, blueberry, mustard greens, apple, carrots. Was using better bug gutloading diet but i got skeeved out by how fakey green it is when it gets wet and i want to reconsider if that’s necessary or if there’s a better alternative.
Awesome! Nice job on the variety and getting him off superworms! As per the amount given, I would restrict him to 3-5 roaches every other day. Feeding him every day at his age will lead to obesity. Looking at the side pic you posted of your cham, he seems to be a healthy weight. His casque isn't puffy nor sunken in--this is a good sign. Now you just want to maintain how he looks. My jacksonii loves grasshoppers! You can't go wrong with them. I've never tried mantids, but I'm sure he would love them. I tried silkworms once, but he only ate 1 and then didn't want anything to do with them ever again. I spent $40 bucks just for him to eat 1 measly silkworm... Though they are very individualistic, so yours may like silkworms. I would try to buy them in the smallest quantity possible if you are only buying them for your jackson's chameleon. Some seem to like them and some don't.

  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Calcium without d3 weekly, calcium with d3 monthly (both zoomed brand), and herpavite multivitamin (rep-cal) monthly.
Your schedule sounds good. However, you are going to want to switch out the Rep Cal Herptivite multivitamin. When it comes to chameleons and supplemental Vitamin A, you want something with retinol (preformed Vit A). Herptivite only has proformed Vit A (Carotenoids) which is up for debate whether it can be converted by chameleons. If I had to recommend a multivitamin, I would say to get one supplement with both D3 and Vit A. That way you can hit two birds with one stone. Plus, I like the brands of these supplements much better. So either get Zoomed Reptivite with D3 or get Repashy Calcium Plus LoD. If you go with repashy, make sure you get the LoD one. The regular calcium plus isn't really designed for chameleons, let alone montane species such as jacksonii. If you get a two-in-one supplement, you could probably just toss the supplements you have. You will already need to toss the multivitamin you have currently. Might as well just replace it with a supplement with both D3 and Vit A. It's not any more expensive.

  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I mist for 2-3 minutes just before lights-on (8 am) and 2-3 min just after lights off (8 pm). I turn on a humidifier in the room he’s in at night too because it’s very dry in my house (20-30). Just got a mistking that i need to finish setting up and that will make life much easier. He drinks only from a dropper though. He goes straight up to the tube and even puts his mouth on it like a straw. He drinks very leisurely for up to 20 min per day, sometimes upside down, sometimes crawling on the tube like a vine, sometimes letting it run all over his face. Never seen him drink dew off leaves. Hes just obsessed with the tube and i think that’s all he understands, because that’s all he had at petco. So tube it is.
It's fine to keep the dripper he has. But from the sound of it, the nighttime humidity is too low. Though take this with a grain of salt. His eyes are nice and round in the picture you sent. So he isn't severely dehydrated. He is likely using the dripper during the day to make up for the low humidity in the middle of the night. I'm extremely happy to hear that you got him a mistking! That is great news! Definitely add some misting sessions in the middle of the night to boost the humidity in the cage. I think you will find that he drinks less with higher humidity nights.

To add to the bit where you never see him drink dew off the leaves: neither have I. I don't utilize a dripper, but he seems to be licking off the dew from the leaves in the morning. Utilizing a dripper is never bad though. I agree with your tactic, it's to be better safe than sorry! Especially with a live animal.

  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? Droppings look normal. Mid-dark brown, solid, smooth ovals. Some little bug legs and fragments whatnot. Urates normal as well - totally white and like thick jello i guess? with small orange bit at the top and plenty of excess water pooling around it on the ground (bc he’s obsessed with drinking). Never been tested for parasites but i actually just ordered a home parasite fecal test from rainbow mealworms so hopefully that works.
Nice, this confirms that he is getting enough to drink. So you have nothing to worry about. He will drink less once you add the mistking and give him several misting sessions throughout the night--so don't be alarmed.

  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. Nothing else to add other than that he was at 2 petcos before i had him. I actually keep in contact with the employees there about him, because they named him wesley (a name i kept for him), and actually did their best to care for him despite lack of understanding about chams (prob on the management level). They said he was transferred to them when he was already an adult, because he wasnt selling :(
I got my jackson's chameleon from a chain pet store as well. I really like Wesley's name! It suits him well!

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? 2x2x4 foot zoomed reptibreeze screened enclosure. Previously was in 16x16 (part of the terrible zoomed “chameleon kit”.
Awesome! A 2x2x4 ft screen enclosure is perfect for these guys with a few modifications. Since you have noted that your house is especially dry, you will want to wrap the sides of his cage with shower curtain, corrugated plastic, sheet plastic, or anything that you can get a hold on to cover the sides and back of his cage. This will help hold in the humidity in his cage. It will also keep the mist from staying outside his cage. Even people with an average humidity level should cover three of the sides of a screen cage. Indoor climate control with dry out the cage incredibly fast.

  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? 22” linear bulb (just recently upgraded to this with the help of feedback on the forum). It is a reptisun t5 ho 5.0 uvb . it is on from 8 am - 8 pm and rests right on top the cage in its fixture. Hes had this the past 2 weeks. Before this he had the bad little one that comes with the zoomed chameleon kit (basically didnt end up using anything that came in that kit).
Sweet! Glad to hear you got the right uvb linear bulb! What is the distance of the nearest basking branch to the uvb? Ideally, the branch should be 8 inches (directly) below the uvb bulb. Do you have any other lighting on top of the cage? You will need a grow light to help plant growth. Arcadia jungle dawn or the vivosun t5 quad fixture both act as great growlights. Your chameleon will also enjoy a brighter cage.
 

Mendez

Chameleon Enthusiast

  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Basking spot was 80-85 until 2 weeks ago when i was advised otherwise by a breeder / AWESOME reptile store nearby me (they’re actually taking care of him this week while im away). She said thats way too hot for a jacksons and 70-75 is much better. So thats what we’re doing now. I believe her because they have successfully bred many chams, and the enclosures there were seriously top notch. Mid-cage has always been around 70, and bottom of cage 68-70 (day). Nighttime temps are 50-60. I use a digital thermometer/humidity guage (i have 3 of them placed at different levels in the cage with 1 affixed to his basking branch).
The nighttime temps (50-60) and ambient temps (68-70) are perfect. A basking spot of 80-85 is fine. I will say that 85 is about the hottest they should get. I prefer a basking spot of 80-82. 70-75 for a basking spot is too low. I'm sure 75F can work. But at that point, you are slowing down their metabolism significantly and potentially risking reduced overall growth in juveniles. Low 80s is an ideal basking temperature. That is the most used basking temperature zone among jacksonii breeders here on the forums.

  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Daytime humidity is 30-50. Nighttime 60-70 (i know 80-100 is ideal, but the vet said to reduce this while he’s recovering from the ri - this should be in 1 week when meds are done). Daytime i haven’t needed to do anything to maintain this humidity. Leaving his dropper on slow for about an hour, plus any remaining mist from the morning seem to be enough. At night is from the night misting and nearby humidifier. I have a coospider repti fogger just sitting unused because im nervous about this with his ri, but plan to use this nightly when he’s fully cleared the RI (and regularly clean it).
Your humidity levels are quite good. Yes, 60-70% is quite low. But once you add the mistking, that will certainly get you up to 80+. 60% sounds too low, even while medicating a cham for an RI. I would try to aim for 70-75% for this time period. Even if you got it up to 80%+, your cham would do fine. RI develop from a compromised immune system due to subpar husbandry parameters. High humidity at night, and low humidity during the day (30-50%) would constitute as perfect husbandry. If you are medicating and giving him ideal humidity and temperature, you have nothing to worry about.

  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? All live plants except 1 that i just removed from the cage. Otherwise we’ve got 1 trascantia zebra, 1 aloe vera, 1 hibiscus, and 2 trees - weeping fig and fichus benjamina.
I would remove the aloe vera. It really isn't suitable for a chameleon cage. Some aloe vera can be quite sharp--though i doubt it would cause any cuts. There are much better plants that can provide leaf cover, drinking spots, and climbing areas than aloe vera. Additionally, aloe vera don't like being misted. They are succulents that can be prone to root rot if misted too much. Also, too low light (depending on where you placed it in the cage) can harm the plant itself. All your other plants choices are great.

  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? It’s next to a window that looks over some trees and rooftops with nothing busy below (3rd floor apartment). I moved it here from my living room because i always caught him staring out the window and thought he would like it. He definitely seems to like looking out the window but i try to keep an eye on signs of stress too. Close the curtain every night to prevent drafts. Top of cage is way higher than eye level and im 5’5. I’d say top of cage is 6’5. Very low traffic corner of my bedroom and i live alone so nobodys bothering him.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? brighton, ma
I think placing his cage by a window is fine if you are keeping an eye out for signs of stress. The only problem you may encounter with keeping the cage near the window is during summer. If the sun starts beating through the window, it can significantly increase the temperature in the cage. Even if you close the blinds or shades, the window will still let in more heat than usual. Once it starts warming up in Massachusetts, you might want to move his cage to a cooler location within the room. I guess one thing I failed to consider is the window placement. If the sun really doesn't shine too much into the window itself, you should be fine. My room gets blasted by the summer sun during the summer. Keeping my blinds open would be a death sentence.

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. Possible weird / swollen-looking areas on chest and front legs (i was thinking this could be localized swelling due to the antibiotic injections i’ve been giving him). Also open to any/all unrelated or general husbandry tips and recommendations :)
I honestly can't see any physical health problems with your chameleon. He looks healthy to me. Just make sure to reduce the feedings to every other day at 3-5 feeders.
 
He sure is a handsome fellow!
The nighttime temps (50-60) and ambient temps (68-70) are perfect. A basking spot of 80-85 is fine. I will say that 85 is about the hottest they should get. I prefer a basking spot of 80-82. 70-75 for a basking spot is too low. I'm sure 75F can work. But at that point, you are slowing down their metabolism significantly and potentially risking reduced overall growth in juveniles. Low 80s is an ideal basking temperature. That is the most used basking temperature zone among jacksonii breeders here on the forums.


Your humidity levels are quite good. Yes, 60-70% is quite low. But once you add the mistking, that will certainly get you up to 80+. 60% sounds too low, even while medicating a cham for an RI. I would try to aim for 70-75% for this time period. Even if you got it up to 80%+, your cham would do fine. RI develop from a compromised immune system due to subpar husbandry parameters. High humidity at night, and low humidity during the day (30-50%) would constitute as perfect husbandry. If you are medicating and giving him ideal humidity and temperature, you have nothing to worry about.


I would remove the aloe vera. It really isn't suitable for a chameleon cage. Some aloe vera can be quite sharp--though i doubt it would cause any cuts. There are much better plants that can provide leaf cover, drinking spots, and climbing areas than aloe vera. Additionally, aloe vera don't like being misted. They are succulents that can be prone to root rot if misted too much. Also, too low light (depending on where you placed it in the cage) can harm the plant itself. All your other plants choices are great.


I think placing his cage by a window is fine if you are keeping an eye out for signs of stress. The only problem you may encounter with keeping the cage near the window is during summer. If the sun starts beating through the window, it can significantly increase the temperature in the cage. Even if you close the blinds or shades, the window will still let in more heat than usual. Once it starts warming up in Massachusetts, you might want to move his cage to a cooler location within the room. I guess one thing I failed to consider is the window placement. If the sun really doesn't shine too much into the window itself, you should be fine. My room gets blasted by the summer sun during the summer. Keeping my blinds open would be a death sentence.


I honestly can't see any physical health problems with your chameleon. He looks healthy to me. Just make sure to reduce the feedings to every other day at 3-5 feeders.
Thank you so much for all of this insight, this is very helpful!
  • About supplements - I am currently using the zoomed reptivite with d3 once per month (I realize I probably should have been more specific). Do you think it would be better to swap this for Repashy calc plus lod or would that basically do the same thing?
  • About lighting - his nearest basking branch is 8” from the basking bulb and is directly under it. And no other lighting; just the linear UVB and basking bulb. I was using a purple grow light for plants for about a week but I could just tell he didn’t like it because he would always move away from it. So I got rid of that. thanks for the recommendations, I’m about to order one now.
  • Ok, basking temp - amazing how much opinions on this vary across the internet and world. Vet says 85-87, breeder says 70-75. ive even heard some say 88-90 for jax. But what you’re saying - im sold. officially making his basking temp 80-82.
  • Other fixes I’ll be making: reduce feeding to every other day, remove aloe vera and prob replace with nasturtium for vining/coverage properties (I think coverage is the main thing that I need more of plant-wise), move cage away from window before hot months, raise nighttime humidity by covering sides/finishing my mistking set up
  • SO glad to hear he looks healthy! :)
 

Mendez

Chameleon Enthusiast
About supplements - I am currently using the zoomed reptivite with d3 once per month (I realize I probably should have been more specific). Do you think it would be better to swap this for Repashy calc plus lod or would t
No need to change. Reptivite with d3 once a month is perfect. That's the current routine and supplement that I've been using for a couple years now.

Glad to hear that you've settled on the 80-82F basking zone! From what I've gathered from other keepers, that seems to be the sweet spot. Anything else is bordering on extremes, either too cold or too hot with no benefits and only risk.

It sounds like you are well on your way to perfecting your chameleon care parameters! Let us know if you have any more questions. (y)
 
No need to change. Reptivite with d3 once a month is perfect. That's the current routine and supplement that I've been using for a couple years now.

Glad to hear that you've settled on the 80-82F basking zone! From what I've gathered from other keepers, that seems to be the sweet spot. Anything else is bordering on extremes, either too cold or too hot with no benefits and only risk.

It sounds like you are well on your way to perfecting your chameleon care parameters! Let us know if you have any more questions. (y)
Thank you :) He's doing way better with the 80-82 basking.
 
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