Fischer's Chameleon

salogmaus

New Member
i'm rehabilitating an abandoned fischer's chameleon. his previous owner didn't know his species and thought it was normal for him to be a dark brown. he had an abscess on his left hind leg, near the pelvis, which has been drained by a vet. he's currently on baytril (diluted with water). i've never had a fischer's and wondering if anyone has any advice regarding rehabilitating them.

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Fischer's, Male, no idea how old, been in my care for 3 weeks.

Handling - Daily for medication (baytril). He often willingly walks onto my hand when i stick it in the enclosure.

Feeding - gut loaded crickets (on gut loading food bought from pet store in a cricket feeder for minimum of 3 days prior to feeding), and the occasional wax worms. 12 crickets daily, on average. 3 x weekly dusted with Calcium and vitamin D3.

Supplements - zoomed, calcium and vitamin D3, 3 X daily

Watering - Mist 2 - 4 times daily. He also has a shallow water bowl, he seems to prefer to drink out of that. I'm assuming he was kept with a water dish with his previous owner, as I know this isn't a natural behavior

Fecal Description - yes been tested three times, results negative. defecates once or twice a day, looks like healthy poop. urate is sometimes yellowy so i upped misting from 2 x daily to 4 x daily and it helps, as well as providing that water dish.

History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - currently glass exoterra with screen lid, 1 foot wide and 2 feet tall. switching to 2 x 3 foot screen cage within a month.

Lighting - don't know the brand or model... red heat lamp, and UVB light (zoo med I think?). REd heat lamp hooked up to a thermostat, so it turns off when it gets too hot and back on when it's too cold. UVB is on 10.5 hours daily from 7:30 - 6 roughly, sometimes longer. will be getting him a timer soon.

Temperature - 71 low to 92 high. Basking spot is typically 88 - 90. I measure with a digital temp gun. No idea what the temps are like at night, this chameleon lives at my work and I'm only there for ten hours a day.

Humidity - Cheap little dial humidity gauge, will be getting a better one. Humidity seems to be around 40 - 50%. Misting for humidity.

Plants - I wish I had live plants. Currently plastic.

Placement - 3 feet off the floor, on a counter in a high traffic area

Location - vancouver BC

Current Problem - Chameleon eats well, seen drinking daily, moves around daily, grip is stronger, colour is getting more green... but still has a lump where the abscess was, still favouring that leg, still more brown than I'd like, just wanting to know how to make this lil guy thrive. During a warm sunny day i gave him some unfiltered sunlight and he went more green and yellowy, so I will try to do that weekly but Canadian weather can be pretty cold and rainy.
 
Sounds like you are doing fine except for the basking temps sound a bit too high especially for a glass cage. I keep mine in the 60's ambient with basking up to about 80F, strong night time cooling. I've kept them into the 40's F at night in winter. They are a montane species that like it cool and wet. You'll want to get some live plants to keep the humidity up, and automated misting/drip is recommended over hand misting.
 
Sounds like you are doing fine except for the basking temps sound a bit too high especially for a glass cage. I keep mine in the 60's ambient with basking up to about 80F, strong night time cooling. I've kept them into the 40's F at night in winter. They are a montane species that like it cool and wet. You'll want to get some live plants to keep the humidity up, and automated misting/drip is recommended over hand misting.

Yes, I'd agree with Mike. He is lucky to have you! And, luckily you live in a cooler more rainy region that will be easier on him. What a shame to abandon this less-than-common species! The fischeri are beautiful and active so he'll want a larger cage eventually. Could we see a photo to make sure we know which subspecies you have? Some do have more brown in their natural coloration than others.
 
I just noticed your supplement schedule, I'm assuming a typo where it says 3X daily. I'd be cautious about D3 supplements, if you can find one with low D and give only once to twice a week would be preferred. Which species of Fischers you have makes a difference on that too. K. multituberculata is most common and is pretty hardy and is not nearly as sensitive to D3 as the smaller species like K. tavetana or K. uluguruensis.

As Carlton says, a photo would be good to identify the species, but also to make sure your chameleon is not having certain problems that might be overlooked by a new keeper or vet that is unfamiliar with this species.
 
Thank you for speedy replies!

Are you sure my temps are too hot? Well, I'm sure you are... but he seems to be doing better with warmer temps. He's so brown when it's cooler...

I dust 3 times weekly, sorry. I can buy supplement powder without D3 if that's better.

edit: image didn't work. i will fix this later.
 
Thank you for speedy replies!

Are you sure my temps are too hot? Well, I'm sure you are... but he seems to be doing better with warmer temps. He's so brown when it's cooler...

Without knowing exactly what species of fischers you have, I can't really hazard a guess as to what his normal coloration should be. But they are all montane which require cooler temps. They typically warm up in the mornings, then retreat to cooler parts of the enclosure. So if you are just observing him early in the day, the darker coloration would be normal until he warms up a bit. Your basking temps do sound warm but make sure you are not measuring the bulb with your heat gun. Measure the basking area just below the bulb.

People have successfully kept them in warmer conditions, but they won't live as long. I've heard several reports of K. multituberculata living past ten years in captivity.
 
Pictures to ID the chameleon would help the most. Other than the temperatures I would say that for a montane species, such as Kinyongia, that upping the humidity from 40-50% to more 50-60% would help the acclimation/living process. I would recommend live plants and sphagnum moss should help to increase the humidity. IDing the species first though if you could post pictures issue #1.

Best Regards
Jeremy A. Rich
 
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Okay, I will buy some live plants when I can. Pothos / ficus okay? And moss for substrate. I lowered temps, bask is now 83-85, ambient 73-75, cool 70.
 
Okay, I will buy some live plants when I can. Pothos / ficus okay? And moss for substrate. I lowered temps, bask is now 83-85, ambient 73-75, cool 70.

Be careful with substrates like moss. There are sharp spines in moss that can injure the cham's intestine if it happens to swallow any while shooting at prey. And, if you free range your insects they will hide in the moss and pick up molds, bacteria and grunge from decaying moss layers. The eventual decay of the substrate can create air quality problems. Put a piece of screen on top of the moss and keep an eye on it for decay.
 
Be careful with substrates like moss. There are sharp spines in moss that can injure the cham's intestine if it happens to swallow any while shooting at prey. And, if you free range your insects they will hide in the moss and pick up molds, bacteria and grunge from decaying moss layers. The eventual decay of the substrate can create air quality problems. Put a piece of screen on top of the moss and keep an eye on it for decay.

Oh okay. I will do some research on this.

But I will get live plants eventually for humidity.

Anyone know what type of Fischer this guy is?
 
Be careful with substrates like moss. There are sharp spines in moss that can injure the cham's intestine if it happens to swallow any while shooting at prey. And, if you free range your insects they will hide in the moss and pick up molds, bacteria and grunge from decaying moss layers. The eventual decay of the substrate can create air quality problems. Put a piece of screen on top of the moss and keep an eye on it for decay.

Oh okay. I will do some research on this.

But I will get live plants eventually for humidity.

Anyone know what type of Fischer this guy is?

If you are concerned about the moss just use a feeding cup for the insects.

Best Regards
Jeremy A. Rich
 
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