Eye larger than the other

EnchiTheCham

New Member
I recently bought a baby male ambilobe panther chameleon and he has had slight eye problems ever since he's arrived. Small things like closing eyes during the day, or occasional itching. With his eyes being closed, i assumed it was because of stress as he is a baby in a brand new home. i handled him once to transport him to his enclosure, but other than that there has been nearly no contact with him. earlier today i noticed his left eye is much larger than his right. It seems swollen to a degree and It is a little scary to a first time chameleon owner.

He has a t5 UVB light and a 100watt heat bulb at the top that gets 90 degrees at most. I mist him around five times a day, (i live in Pennsylvania and it is very dry here) and my automatic mister is on its way. He is being fed around ten flightless Fruit flies a day, sprinkled with a bit of Repashy calcium with a very small amount of d3.
is this normal? is this bad?

When he was newer in my home, his eyes seemed a little sunken in, so i assumed he may be a little dehydrated. I would use a small, clean dropper and would slowly drop water near him, away from his nose so he could drink if he wanted to. He ended up loving it and to my surprise, wanted more. So every time i would put the dropper in his cage, he would associate it with water and got excited almost. And yes, i know what he looks like when he is defensive and he wasn't being defensive at all. So is it possible i overwatered him and his eyes got too large..? Im uneducated with how their eye and water consumption looks like but that is why Im here for help.
 

EnchiTheCham

New Member
I forgot to add, yes i have regular calcium and a multivitamin on its way. Ive fed him a meal with the D3 only twice in my week of having him and my new schedule will be calcium all week and then on every other Saturday ill feed him a multivitamin, and every other i will feed him calcium with d3
 

JuniorC

Avid Member
I recently bought a baby male ambilobe panther chameleon and he has had slight eye problems ever since he's arrived. Small things like closing eyes during the day, or occasional itching. With his eyes being closed, i assumed it was because of stress as he is a baby in a brand new home. i handled him once to transport him to his enclosure, but other than that there has been nearly no contact with him. earlier today i noticed his left eye is much larger than his right. It seems swollen to a degree and It is a little scary to a first time chameleon owner.

He has a t5 UVB light and a 100watt heat bulb at the top that gets 90 degrees at most. I mist him around five times a day, (i live in Pennsylvania and it is very dry here) and my automatic mister is on its way. He is being fed around ten flightless Fruit flies a day, sprinkled with a bit of Repashy calcium with a very small amount of d3.
is this normal? is this bad?

When he was newer in my home, his eyes seemed a little sunken in, so i assumed he may be a little dehydrated. I would use a small, clean dropper and would slowly drop water near him, away from his nose so he could drink if he wanted to. He ended up loving it and to my surprise, wanted more. So every time i would put the dropper in his cage, he would associate it with water and got excited almost. And yes, i know what he looks like when he is defensive and he wasn't being defensive at all. So is it possible i overwatered him and his eyes got too large..? Im uneducated with how their eye and water consumption looks like but that is why Im here for help.
Pictures please
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Your temps are way too hot... Need to reduce wattage on the heat bulb. No hotter then 80 at basking for a baby and never hotter then 85 for a male adult.

Their eyes will bulge when they are trying to clean it. If it does this and then the size reduces to the same as the other then that is what he is trying to do.

Please post pictures of your entire enclosure lighting down.
 

GrayMadder

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hmmm. Where did you purchase your cham from??

Also, if you haven't already please have your husbandry reviewed. Dusting your feeds with calcium w d3 2 times a week is too much d3 for your cham. You will want to dust with phosphorus free calcium without d3 every day. And twice a month provide a multivitamin and alternate between calcium w d3 twice a month as well.


Please fill this out with as much detail as possible. And pictures are super helpful!

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon
- The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?

• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.


Cage Info:

• Cage Type
- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?

• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

• Location - Where are you geographically located?


Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

• The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.

• Photos can be very helpful.
 

Kamikaze Chameleon

Avid Member
Yes please provide pictures and fill out the husbandry form! Chameleons are constantly cleaning their eyes so It is very difficult to help without more information. If they are itching there eye it could be dirt, debris or stuck shed but also sounds like you maybe over did it on the d3[twice in a week is too much]. It should be alternating with the multivitamin let's say for example, on the 1st and the 15th. Only a vet can be certain but with more information we can narrow it down!
 
Last edited:

EnchiTheCham

New Member
Pictures please

Hmmm. Where did you purchase your cham from??

Also, if you haven't already please have your husbandry reviewed. Dusting your feeds with calcium w d3 2 times a week is too much d3 for your cham. You will want to dust with phosphorus free calcium without d3 every day. And twice a month provide a multivitamin and alternate between calcium w d3 twice a month as well.


Please fill this out with as much detail as possible. And pictures are super helpful!

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon
- The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?

• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.


Cage Info:

• Cage Type
- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?

• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

• Location - Where are you geographically located?


Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

• The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.

• Photos can be very helpful.
1-2 month old male ambilobe panther chameleon, ive had him for a week
handled him once when transporting from his container into his enclosure
i feed him Drosophila Melanogaster flightless fruit flies and dubia roaches gutloaded with carrots and mango
i dusted his food with repashy calcium with d3 twice this week, even though it is not reccomended. His regular calcium without d3 is on its way and so is his multivitamin. i feed him at around 11 AM so he has time to bask and digest.
i see him drink all the time, like ive mentioned i water him with a dropper as he pleases. I mist him around 5 times a day with a hand mister because his reptirain came in broken and a new one is being sent.
His droppings look very normal to me. The brown parts are round and healthy looking and the urea waste is an off-white color. recently one of his urea was a little on the orange side, but it went back to normal the next day.
I ordered him off of CBReptile..? He came much smaller than expected but i did select the hatchling option.
Cage info:
He has a reptibreeze small cage seeing as he is only around two inches big.
lighting schedule is on at 7 AM and off at 7 PM and i use a Flukers sun dome attached to a tri-pod stand that can go up and down as he cools.
and a T5 UVB Bulb in an 18 inch terarrium hood from Zoo Med.
Lowest overnight temperature is 73. My gradient is from 90 degrees to 73 at ambient temperature ( I have recently been told that 90 is too high and i am fixing it as we speak) I water him with lukewarm distilled water. i use a temperature gun for measuring.
For humidity, like i mentioned i mist him around 5 times a day because it is so dry here, and i use a handheld spray bottle. his humidity stays at 70-80 nearly all day and at night is around 60.
I have three live plants in his enclosure and three plastic ones. one of my live ones is a small dragon tree and the others are aloe and succulents in the bottom of his enclosure. He doesnt go down there, but theyre in there to keep humidity up.
The cage is around four feet off the ground, he is the highest point in my room (he thinks) and he is not near any vents or anything of the sort. he is on top of a large dresser which i keep my supplies in.
I live in Pennsylvania, USA where it is winter here. My home gets a bit dry, but the humidity levels stay good in my opinion.


Im sorry if this seems rushed! Im at work and I'm just worried about my scaly guy.
Also i would like to add, my computer isnt letting me attatch any photos. I'll keep trying
 

Kamikaze Chameleon

Avid Member
Well you sounds like your on the right path and making the nessacery adjustments, I also notice your daytime humidity is too high, should only be 40-60 during the day and up to 100% at night. High heat and humidity will cause a respiratory infection. He will outgrow that cage very fast a 2x2×4 is the minimum, unfortunately you should've just started with that size of cage but don't feel too bad many people, me included, made the same mistake.
 

GrayMadder

Chameleon Enthusiast
I would try to do a longer mist in the AM before lights on and a longer mist in the evening/late afternoon right before lights go out. This will help you keep humidity at the right levels and allow the enclosure to completely dry.

Cbreptiles is unfortunately known for flipping animals and the animals being sick. I would suggest a vet visit to an exotics vet and talk to your vet about the eye issue and a fecal test so you can get peace of mind your cham is healthy.

It's good you ordered the correct supplements. It's super important!
 

EnchiTheCham

New Member
Tha
Well you sounds like your on the right path and making the nessacery adjustments, I also notice your daytime humidity is too high, should only be 40-60 during the day and up to 100% at night. High heat and humidity will cause a respiratory infection. He will outgrow that cage very fast a 2x2×4 is the minimum, unfortunately you should've just started with that size of cage but don't feel too bad many people, me included, made the same mistake.
I had no idea the humidity was supposed to be there. Thank you so much for letting me know! I will purchase the new cage as soon as possible.
 

EnchiTheCham

New Member
I would try to do a longer mist in the AM before lights on and a longer mist in the evening/late afternoon right before lights go out. This will help you keep humidity at the right levels and allow the enclosure to completely dry.

Cbreptiles is unfortunately known for flipping animals and the animals being sick. I would suggest a vet visit to an exotics vet and talk to your vet about the eye issue and a fecal test so you can get peace of mind your cham is healthy.

It's good you ordered the correct supplements. It's super important!
Thank you so much, i wish i would have done more research into CBReptiles before i purchased my boy. Thanks for the humidity information too!
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
@EnchiTheCham See my feedback and questions in BOLD.

1-2 month old male ambilobe panther chameleon, ive had him for a week... That is extremely young. Getting your husbandry perfect will be very important.
handled him once when transporting from his container into his enclosure
i feed him Drosophila Melanogaster flightless fruit flies and dubia roaches gutloaded with carrots and mango Gutload needs to change see image below. Make sure your giving tons of feeders every day. You should be able to do pin head crickets too. Make sure the feeders are size appropriate.

i dusted his food with repashy calcium with d3 twice this week, even though it is not reccomended. His regular calcium without d3 is on its way and so is his multivitamin. i feed him at around 11 AM so he has time to bask and digest. What repashy are you using? The actual name on the label? There are multiple ways to do supplements. The standard rule is calcium without D3 at all feedings except 2 times a month you would use a multivitamin with D3 and vitamin A.


i see him drink all the time, like ive mentioned i water him with a dropper as he pleases. This is a bad habit to teach them and it makes them dependent on you for water. I mist him around 5 times a day with a hand mister because his reptirain came in broken and a new one is being sent. Do a long 2-5 minute misting in the morning and at night. During the day provide a dripper... This can be as simple as a solo cup with a pin hole in the bottom and adding ice cubes to it so it melts slowly all day then dripping down on the plants.
His droppings look very normal to me. The brown parts are round and healthy looking and the urea waste is an off-white color. recently one of his urea was a little on the orange side, but it went back to normal the next day.
I ordered him off of CBReptile..? He came much smaller than expected but i did select the hatchling option. Get a fecal done to ensure he does not have parasites. This is very important. Most vets will let you just bring one in and drop it off. If it then comes back with a parasite issue they would need to see the baby.
Cage info:

He has a reptibreeze small cage seeing as he is only around two inches big. Fine for now... Start planning on your upgrade. You want a minimum 2x2x4 ft.
lighting schedule is on at 7 AM and off at 7 PM and i use a Flukers sun dome attached to a tri-pod stand that can go up and down as he cools.
and a T5 UVB Bulb in an 18 inch terarrium hood from Zoo Med.... So your distance to basking for UVB is going to be really important. Since your using a smaller cage as well he has to be able to get away from the UVB. With this T5 fixture what UVB bulb strength did you get? This is important so I can give you directions for how you need to have the UVB set up for baby.
Lowest overnight temperature is 73. My gradient is from 90 degrees to 73 at ambient temperature ( I have recently been told that 90 is too high and i am fixing it as we speak) I water him with lukewarm distilled water. i use a temperature gun for measuring. Babies that young are in the 75-80 max range... drop your bulb wattage down on the heat bulb. And make sure your using a temp guage with a probe at basking to get an exact temp. Fixture should be lifted off the top to ensure baby does not get thermal burns screen climbing. If it feels hot to you then it is too hot on the screen. Overnight temp needs to be lower. They need a cool down. Getting it down to 65 at least will help.
No lukewarm water. Room temp only.


For humidity, like i mentioned i mist him around 5 times a day because it is so dry here, and i use a handheld spray bottle. his humidity stays at 70-80 nearly all day and at night is around 60. Humidity is too high during the day. You want 50-60% during the day... Up to 100% at night when temps are lower then 68. See feedback above for watering. Cool mist humidifier or fogger can be used at night but temps have to be cooler and cage needs airflow so there is not stagnant air.
I have three live plants in his enclosure and three plastic ones. one of my live ones is a small dragon tree and the others are aloe and succulents in the bottom of his enclosure. He doesnt go down there, but theyre in there to keep humidity up. See this link for plants. You want cham plants. https://chameleonacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Chameleon-Plants-122819.pdf
The cage is around four feet off the ground, he is the highest point in my room (he thinks) and he is not near any vents or anything of the sort. he is on top of a large dresser which i keep my supplies in.
I live in Pennsylvania, USA where it is winter here. My home gets a bit dry, but the humidity levels stay good in my opinion.


Im sorry if this seems rushed! Im at work and I'm just worried about my scaly guy.
Also i would like to add, my computer isnt letting me attatch any photos. I'll keep trying


Start reading through this.
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
species specific info. Keep in mind this is going to differ a bit when it comes to temps because yours is much younger then should be sold https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/


chameleon-gutload.jpg
 

Kamikaze Chameleon

Avid Member
Thank you so much, i wish i would have done more research into CBReptiles before i purchased my boy. Thanks for the humidity information too!
Try to think of it this way, they may have not been the most reputable but now you can prove yourself to be an excellent and worthy keeper by raising a cham from such a place 🙂. Provide the cham with a more than adequate setup and he will thank you back tenfold!

Like I said before your following advice and making the necessary changes which is all we can ask for and more we can say for most of the people that come through here asking for help 😒

Good luck and keep us updated!!🍻🍻🍻
 
Top Bottom