educating my community

Status
Not open for further replies.

VeiledOwner87

New Member
so i am on this facebook forum for herp keepers in my city and it's district. There is a person on there who has just recently gotten a chameleon, and because of my interest and pics, more people are getting interested, which i dont think is a good thing lol. anyways, i took it upon myself to write a discussion topic on chameleons, their care and essentials you need. i didnt peak or copy and paste anybody's information, what i wrote is everything i've learned since keeping chameleons and all i've learned on here. so i guess this is the test, how much have i learned. its is aiming more towards panthers and veileds because that is generally all i see coming out of this city, so i did a quick care sheet on the two as well. it is a super long post, but if you guys are willing, help me out and critique it, showing me where i went wrong so i can edit. regardless though, i think this is a major boost for educating my community seeing as there are pet store employees and owners on the group page as well. I wrote it, but i look at it as all of OUR voices being heard for proper chameleon care!


here it is.

CARE AND HUSBANDRY for CHAMELEONS
Chameleons are one of the toughest reptiles to care for in captivity. There are many things that need to be taken in consideration before buying one. The two most popular species of chameleons in the trade here in Ontario, and usually readily offered at pet stores and expo shows are Chamaeleo Calyptratus (the Veiled Chameleon) and Furcifer Pardalis (the Panther Chameleon). You will also be able to find smaller species once in a while such as Rhampholeon Brevicadatus (the Bearded Pygmy Chameleon) which is not considered a true chameleon, but a false chameleon due to their size.

In thinking about getting a chameleon, you need to consider the following in order to properly care for it:
- space
- time
- dedication
- money (proper supplies, vet bills, a variety of different foods)

Chameleons are vulnerable reptiles that need all of these, and a vet visit in almost any case of illness is the most important thing you can offer. Chameleons are easily prone to stress, and like all animals, stress = death.

Stress can be caused by:
- to much handling
- constant hands in the cage (moving things around, trying to pick it up)
- the sight of other animals, especially other chameleons. with multiple chameleons and reptiles in one room, it is important to provide visual barriers between the cages ( garbage bag sheet, card board, etc)
- high traffic areas where the cage is located (ie: living room)
- loud vibrations, music (chameleons do not have ears, but their hearing is based on Decibals (Db) the pick up on vibrations and will then do what they have to do to defend or escape, and doing either will cause stress.

it is important to see if any of these will be an issue in the "considering of buying process"

ACCLIMATION:
The process of chameleon acclimation is very crucial to get your cham off to a nice healthy start in your care. Unfortunatly, not too many petstores properly care for chameleons because of their lack of knowledge. Many times I have seen chameleons extreamly lethargic, with symptoms of sleeping during the day, sunken eyes due to dehydration, and very slim due to loss of appetite. I have also seen cases of chameleons and other reptiles with MBD (metabolic bone disease). If you see a chameleon with these conditions like this, DO NOT purchase. Vet bills will be very costly. Dehydration is a common thing for recieving any new chameleon. Buying one of these reptiles at a store, an expo, or even having them shipped will have a result in dehydration.

When acclimating your chameleon you need to provide as much water as it can drink and at its own pace. A good 5 minute mistdown a couple times a day is needed not only for acclimating, but in the regular process of captivating it. Chameleons need higher hydration. In regards to water, a dripper is commonly used to provide dripping drinking water at all times and can be fixed to 1 drop of water a second to last you hours. Chameleons DO NOT drink from water dishes. They need moving water to do this with. Waterfalls are NOT a good idea nor a healthy one either, because the filtration in waterfalls isnt sufficient enough to clean the water, it grows bacteria very quickly, and chameleons tend to poop in waterfalls frequently. It is NOT healthy.

Feeding is also very important for acclimating, but is due to the condition, sex and weight of the animal. (ie, at any point in a females age past the starting point of sexual maturity, it is important along with the factor of temperature, not to over feed a female, or feed it every day. this is will enable an infertile clutch of eggs to be produced and in great amounts, which can lead to easy egg binding, stress or just take a great toll off of the chameleon's life)
*NOTE* always offer food, but being placed from one place into a completely new place will be very confusing, a chameleon may eat very little or none at all for the first day or two, to even a week. this IS normal.

The last and another important aspect of acclimation is privacy. It is simple enough to know that a chameleon will not process into it's new home any quicker, and will stay stressed and refrain from drinking or eating if you are watching it, in the same room, or trying to handle it. LET IT BE!.
 
HUSBANDRY & SUPPLIES:
It is very important to have the new habitat cage set up with all of its husbandry settings where the need to be BEFORE you buy the animal. Making sure the cage is sufficient enough, and all of the temperatures are set right is a must do. Getting a chameleon cage set up is not an inexpensive thing to do, everything im going to write down is a MUST HAVE for chameleon keeping. A cage alone can be a very expensive thing, and if you go the less expensive way (DYI) than its going to cost a lot of time, patients and labor.

CAGE:
glass tanks and terrariums are not suggested for true chameleon keeping. there are simply not big enough glass enclosures to support a chameleon, ventilation is a very important issue, and the issue of thermo-regulating needs to be offered. Bigger is better, and for common kept species like Veiled and Panther chameleons, a 2x2x4' SCREENED cage is healthiest but most minimum sized cage that will support a chameleon it's whole life.
Juveniles and sub adults can be housed in smaller cages about 2.5-3' tall. Babies need the exception of being housed in glass tank with proper ventilation, but only as a baby or hatchling. Babies require lower temperatures and higher humidity. A heat light is hardly necessary for babies and hatchlings, all species will do fine and thrive at a room temperature of 75 degrees.

LIGHTING:
Chameleons from juvenile to adult need a heat source. Depending on the species, a light dome with a regular incandesent house bulb will do just fine. You will need to do some trial and error to determine which wattage will give you your desired temperature.

Chameleons at all ages need a UVB sources as all dynural reptiles do. Exo-Terra's ReptiGLO 5.0 and ZooMed's ReptiSUN are the most popular and reliable uvb source lights you can get. You will need to provide a 5.0 uvb light for most cages. Determined by the thickness of the screen and the size of the cage, a 10.0 is needed instead, but on less common circumstances. (ie. Exo-Terra Reptarium --> anything over passed a 38g would need 10.0uvb with the basking branches lowered to 9-12'' away from the light). It is recommended to provide the UVB lights in a flourecent linear tube style (the long T8 size). There have been issues in the past with the CFL (compact flourescent lights) causing blindness and eye problems to chameleons. Not only do you want to eliminate potential problems right away, but linear tubes cover the whole width of the cage, where CFLs dont.

WATERING:
Dripper - as stated earlier, a way to provide your chameleon with drinking water all day long is by a dripper. you can research how to make one, or search up ZooMed "Little" or "Big" Dripper, and steal there idea. You can also use a cup with a pin sized hole and place that on top of the cage (not the best idea but it works). You also want to make sure your dripping water is being dripped on to a plant so it is noticed and easily drunk off the leaves like they do in the wild.
*NOTE* avoid melting ice cubes. the water is too cold and can easily send a reptiles body in shock.

Cage Misting - can be done by a water bottle, pesticide pump sprayer (NOT USED) or an automatic misting system. I have a MistKing set up for my cages and it is the best piece of equiptment I have. I never have to worry about ruining my schedual to do a mistdown or give water to my chameleons. The ultimate system comes with all you need for 1-3 cages and a timer that takes care of everything starting at 189.99, and can be a customized order to decrease the price. http://www.mistking.com
MistKing is an internationally known and trusted brand used by zoos, hobbyist and botanic gardens, they are also located right here in Lasalle!

FOLIAGE:
since chameleons need high humidity, it is hard at times to provide this in a screen cage. Live plants are the best aids to this. Commonly used plants by chameleon keepers are
Schefflera Aboricola (Umbrella Plant) *MAKE SURE IT IS S. ABORICOLA*
Ficus Benjimina (ficus)
Pothos
Hibiscus

All leaves must be thouroghly washed and clean, and repotted in organic potting soil, and the soil then has to be covered by large river bed rocks.

Branches and vines also need to be provided in good amounts to produce horizontal and vertical walkways for your chameleon to bask, and explore. You cant stop a chameleon from climbing on the cage itself, but too much of it is bad for the nails and feet.

SUPPLIMENTS:
A chameleon needs three sources of supplement powders:
I recommend using all Rep-Cal brands.
Rep-Cal Calcium without Vitamin D3
Rep-Cal Calcium with D3
Rep-Cal Herptivite

I recommend Rep-Cal because the calcium’s are phosphorus free, and the Herptivite uses Beta-Carotene instead of Vitamin A which is very damaging to chameleons organs.

FEEDERS:
Chameleons in captivity are insectivores NOT omnivores. They should always be fed insects and not mammals or lizards like pinkies, fuzzies, mice and anoles. These feeder preys are very high in protein and fat and are not healthy for chameleons since they cannot metabolize them properly. A wide variety of feeders should be offered as a chameleons diet, but no feeder should be a primary staple. Crickets, Silkworms and Hornworms are excellent feeders that offer good healthy protein, calcium and moisture. Superworms and meal worms are good feeders but only a couple times a week as they contain high fat levels and too much of their hard shell can cause impaction. Wax worms are very fatty and should be offered seldomly to none at all.

Gutloading is the key to healthy insects and a healthy chameleon, see this link for a sufficient gutload recipe for your insects. http://www.facebook.com/#!/topic.php?uid=146550492045060&topic=387.
 
COMMON CARE for CHAMAELEO CALYPTRARTUS (the Veiled Chameleon)
Temperatures:
Hatchlings & Babies – 75-77 degrees
Juveniles – 77-80 degrees
Sub-adult & Adult Female – 80-82 degrees
Sub-adult Male – 80-85 degrees
Adult Male – 85-88 degrees

Hyrdration:
A good misting can bring levels from 55-70%. Veiled Chameleons come from Yemen Saudi Arabia which is hot and dry, but of course we don’t want to mimic these temperatures in captivity, it is unhealthy. As long as they have water offered, a Veiled Chameleons dry out humidity can drop to around 20%, try and avoid this though.

Feeding & Supplimenting:
Hatchlings/Babies – feed pinhead crickets or fruit flies everyday and in quantities as much as they can eat. Every feeding should be supplemented with plain Calcium without D3. Supplimenting with Calcium D3 and Herptivite should be offered twice a month.

Juveniles – feed about 12-15 feeders daily; small crickets, small silkworms and hornworms, small superworms and mealworms. Suppliment with Calcium no D3 about 5 times a week. Supplimenting with Calcium D3 and Herptivite offered twice a month.

Sub Adults/ Adult Males – feed about 8-10 feeders about 6 times a week or every other day. Suppliment with plain Calcium no D3 about 5 times a week or every feeding if doing an everyother day. Supplimenting with Calcium D3 and Herptivite offered once or twice a month.

Sub Adults/ Adult Females – feed every other day with 7-8 crickets or the same in weight with other feeders *REMEMBER VARIETY* . Suppliment with plain Calcium no D3 every feeding. Supplimenting with Calcium D3 and Herptivite offered once or twice a month.



COMMON CARE for FURCIFER PARDALIS (the Panther Chameleon)

Temperatures:
Hatchlings & Babies – 75-77 degrees
Juveniles – 77-80 degrees
Sub-adult & Adult Female – 80-81 degrees
Sub-adult Male – 80-84 degrees
Adult Male – 85-87 degrees

Hyrdration:
A good misting can bring levels from 55-75%. I would keep a panther’s humidity around 65% if possible.

Feeding & Supplimenting:
Hatchlings/Babies – feed pinhead crickets or fruit flies everyday and in quantities as much as they can eat. Every feeding should be supplemented with plain Calcium without D3. Supplimenting with Calcium D3 and Herptivite should be offered twice a month.

Juveniles – feed about 12-15 feeders daily; small crickets, small silkworms and hornworms, small superworms and mealworms. Suppliment with Calcium no D3 about 5 times a week. Supplimenting with Calcium D3 and Herptivite offered twice a month.

Sub Adults/ Adult Males – feed about 8-10 feeders about 6 times a week or every other day. Suppliment with plain Calcium no D3 about 5 times a week or every feeding if doing an everyother day. Supplimenting with Calcium D3 and Herptivite offered once or twice a month.

Sub Adults/ Adult Females – feed every other day with 7-8 crickets or the same in weight with other feeders *REMEMBER VARIETY* . Suppliment with plain Calcium no D3 every feeding. Supplimenting with Calcium D3 and Herptivite offered once or twice a month.
 
Good thing...

Well I think it's a good thing to offer especially if lots of interest is being shown and chance for impluse buying or "petstore sales & advise"... both of which we all know can be disasterous for the Chams involved.

So giving them a general over-all view of what they are getting into is never a bad idea... it can only help and perhaps deter those who are not willing or financially able to properly care for a Chameleon...

I think you are doing a good thing.
:p
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom