Eatting on and off

zelink14

Member
So I figured I'd move this over here since my thread on general discussion was a bit more generalized. I also tried reading around the forums first but didn't find exactly what I needed.

So I'm still not sure of Ridley's gender. I figured male because of the foot spurs (discussed on the other thread) but I was browsing around today and noticed this old post; I am questioning it again since this female chameleon, Ben, looks identical to Ridley (only bigger) on this page: https://www.chameleonforums.com/concerned-about-ben-ita-19594/ To compare, here's the photos of Ridley: https://www.chameleonforums.com/new-member-gender-question-20226/index3.html

Anyway, my point. So I was wondering if there's any other reason for a chameleon to turn black and sit at the bottom of the cage -- or act normal and just not eat -- other than being gravid (I think it's called). Since I'm going to be confused of Ridley's gender for awhile, I'm not sure if I should put in some kind of digging recepticle just in case or not?

Ridley did eat a few crickets yesterday, but immediately after was black again. But s/he went back to normal soon after. I haven't seen Ridley eat yet today. Could Ridley maybe just have an upset stomach, or could it be something else?

Some info:
-enclosure is 2'x1'x1' (I plan to upgrade once Ridley gets a bit bigger)
-heat/light: Zoo Med Powersun bulb, 100w
-temp: 80-90 near top of cage
-humidity: 60% normally, 70-80% when misted 2-3 times a day

Is there anything I should be prepared for? (as a reminder, Ridley is 4 months old)
 
Quoting my previous post..."I would put some place in the cage for her to dig to show you if she's ready".

It won't hurt to put a place for a chameleon to dig in there...so why not do it??
Is it better to risk eggbinding?
 
Quoting my previous post..."I would put some place in the cage for her to dig to show you if she's ready".

It won't hurt to put a place for a chameleon to dig in there...so why not do it??
Is it better to risk eggbinding?

Oh sorry, I must've missed that. Yeah, I'll try that. But is there really no other reason they'd act this way?
 
So when I went to the vet the other day, the vet did feel Ridley's abdomen to check for a hard mass. She didn't feel anything, indicating both a lack of eggs and constipation (I assume).

So why isn't Ridley eating? His color is getting a tad bit gray, but he's still just as active. Just... not eating.

He might not be pooping either. I'll check tomorrow.

But I really, really need help. I'm new to caring for a chameleon and small things like this are what got my beardie. :(
 
I don't think Ridley has MBD because the vet checked that the other day. She said he has a strong grip and his jaw bone is nice and solid. (etc.) I've tried to keep on top of the calcium thing, because that's my biggest fear.

I'm worried because Ridley seemed fine at the vet only two days ago, but is still "sick". I don't know what simply "sick" means -- in other words, I don't know what specific things I should try.

I also don't know if I should be worried. Will Ridley start eating on his own when he's feeling better, or should I do something for him?

Has anyone else not had this problem? D:

BTW, thanks for the photo reference.
 
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What are you feeding him? Are the feeders too big? Sometimes trying smaller crickets gets them going. Have you tried silkworms?
 
Feeding, Temperature, and Humidity Information

For now I'm only feeding him small-medium (1/2" at most) crickets that are gutloaded on carrot, bell pepper, apple, celery, and bearded dragon pellets.

I bought some waxworms recently, and gave Ridley one one day and one the next day, and he "coincidentally" stopped eating after that. (with the exception of yesterday) When I left for class this morning, he looked like he was heading towards the feeding cup, so HOPEFULLY... :) I'm going to check when I stop by my house this afternoon.

I cleared the bottom of the cage yesterday so I can watch for any poop (I'll check that when I go home, too). I also added a makeshift drip system w/ a paper towel to catch the excess water.

As for ambient temps and such, the ambient temp is about 75 and the basking spot is about 85-90. Humidity typically is 60% and 80% when misted, 2-3 times a day.

Also, I am using a 100w Zoo Med Powersun bulb, if that's important as well. (if unfamiliar, these put of both UVA and UVB)
 
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Everything sounds okay except for your lighting.
I really recommend using a linear tube fluorescent uvb light.

-Brad
 
I actually did a search about my bulb on this site because I've been reading that the coily UVB bulbs cause eye issues, and found this: https://www.chameleonforums.com/zoo-med-powersun-lighting-13483/

I'm not saying this makes it okay, but I was hoping that since mine is a lower wattage that it wouldn't be as overpowering.

If a light is bad for the reptile, how long does it take him to start to "go downhill" as a result of the lighting? I'm wondering because I've had Ridley under this light for a full three months and he's been okay.

I was planning on upgrading the cage when I graduate and move this summer, so I suppose I could do it early if the light really is a problem.
 
One of the problems I have with your arrangement is that it does not allow the chameleon to choose whether he wants to warm up or bask under UVB.
He is forced to be under UVB radiation if he wants to warm up and vice versa.
It is important to keep these elements separate.

-Brad
 
Okay, that makes a lot of sense.

I'll see what sort of arrangement I can find. I'll go check out the Reptisun 5.0 this weekend since I've heard good things about it.

I'll check on Ridley's status this afternoon and let you know if he's eaten. Thanks for your help thus far. :)
 
RIDLEY ATE! :D

I haven't seen any poop yet, but Ridley did eat all of the crickets in his cup and I just put in a bunch more in case he's still hungry. I think he'll be fine. :)

Thanks a lot for your help!
 
i don't know if this is realated but i recently found out that when i shaved off my full beard it was like my veiled didn't recognize me. he stopped eating just like when he was moved to new enclosure. it has been a week and he still looks at me like a stranger. he is eating, but before he would eat out of my hand, not now.
 
i don't know if this is realated but i recently found out that when i shaved off my full beard it was like my veiled didn't recognize me. he stopped eating just like when he was moved to new enclosure. it has been a week and he still looks at me like a stranger. he is eating, but before he would eat out of my hand, not now.

Oh, wow! lol I've wondered about that myself since I wear my hair differently sometimes. I'll try to watch for any changes in behavior.

I guess in a little while he'll realize you're the same person. Hopefully, anyway. ;)
 
For now I'm only feeding him small-medium (1/2" at most) crickets that are gutloaded on carrot, bell pepper, apple, celery, and bearded dragon pellets.
Isn't bellpepper to be avoided? I read my hornworms would eat that but that it could be deadly poisonous to herps. Just cause I read it doesn't mean its true ;)
 
I'd be interested in knowing where you read that bell peppers can be toxic. Hornworms usually eat tomato leaves and they do contain toxins. I have fed bell peppers to my veileds, bearded dragons, iguanas, prehensile-tailed anoles, turtles/tortoises and uromastyx for years with no ill affects.
 
I'd be interested in knowing where you read that bell peppers can be toxic. Hornworms usually eat tomato leaves and they do contain toxins. I have fed bell peppers to my veileds, bearded dragons, iguanas, prehensile-tailed anoles, turtles/tortoises and uromastyx for years with no ill affects.

I know I've read that non-organic thin skinned fruit/veggies i.e. peppers, tomatoes etc. can retain a lot more pesticides. If it's is organic no worries, but IMHO I'd stay away from non-organic thin skinned fruits/veggies in all respects. I too add in organic bell peppers to the gutload every other week or so:D.
 
I'd be interested in knowing where you read that bell peppers can be toxic. Hornworms usually eat tomato leaves and they do contain toxins. I have fed bell peppers to my veileds, bearded dragons, iguanas, prehensile-tailed anoles, turtles/tortoises and uromastyx for years with no ill affects.

I think I read that if they eat Chiles, Tomotoes, or peppers that they would become poisonous, as they had some sort of resistance to something in the fruit but they the lizards that eat them couldn't handle it. Don't remeber where I read it.... I'll see if I can't find the source.... but either way if you guys use em then I guess it can't be that bad
 
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