ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
Or just get a new roommate! (kidding, of course)
DIY Double Cage Build
- Thread starter ERKleRose
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Believe me, I've considered it lol. I used to make fun of people who were crazy pet "parents" but the longer I take care of Kronin, the more I seem to like the little guy. Funny how that works 
ERKleRose
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If you do that, mount planters and everything on the screen so the bottom of the cage is bare and make a drainage system, too
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I've been trying to figure out the best way to elevate the plants off the true floor of the cage cause the only one I have right now is a large Schefflera and its a pain to get the bottom out from under that. But im positive its too heavy to actually hang from the screen. Maybe ill design a cage with a false bottom that the plants can sit on but that will allow everything else to fall through.
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
In my temporary cages (Zoo Med XL ReptiBreezes), I bought the coordinating substrate trays and filled them with layers of egg crate/lighting diffuser and covered that with a moss mat. Rabbit cage trays from Tractor Supply work great for cages you make yourself. You can also make your own version of Dragon Ledges or add a support bar on top of the cage to hold a pot
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How good are PVC sheets for load bearing. Could I theoretically just make a PVC bottom, cover it in screen, and drill a crap ton of small holes in it for stuff to drain through?
salty dog
Chameleon Enthusiast
Pvc is used as a commercial roof system that can hold composure with 150 pound a.c. units sitting on it, with solid sheeting underneath, I wouldn't put more than 50 pounds on a suspended piece though, I'm using it, well I've been thinking of slanting each side of the length of the bottom of my viv. 6 percent angle, 10 inches on each side with 1 x 10 pine lumber to a trough in the middle (suspended) I'm going to drill bunch of 1/8" small holes roughly 1 inch apart and put a few plants there in 3/8 course hummus on bottom and 1/4 - 1/2 inch growstone on top that would benefit from the runoff, jewel orchid and dendrobium both are lithophytes and put a bucket underneath to catch the runthrough, and My viv is total 30 inches wide, just for an idea
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Thanks! So many great ideas. I really appreciate all the advice!
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For the box that will serve as the base of my cage, if I coat the whole thing in FlexSeal, will that provide a good enough water tight seal?
ERKleRose
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FlexSeal isn’t the most reliable and can get expensive. I’m using Pentair Epoxy Paint, it’s like $50 (I think) per gallon and comes in many colors
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Thanks also, since I'm using it to construct the box and also considering it for the back side of the cage (to protect the wall) does MDF take epoxy paint well?
also, since I'm using it to construct the box and also considering it for the back side of the cage (to protect the wall) does MDF take epoxy paint well?
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
MDF is extremely porous, so it may take more coats for it to properly sealThanks
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Should I consider another type of wood? Particle board maybe?
ERKleRose
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Plywood, birch is great, I would use Columbia Forest Products PureBond plywood. It is expensive though, thus my reason for MDF
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I'm in the same boat. I'm trying to build this for under $300.
Tbittle511
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I've heard the aluminum can be dangerous to chameleon toes. Is that true? Are you using anything in addition to the aluminum?
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
I'm using PVC coated hardware cloth on the inside so my chams won't be climbing the aluminum mesh, the aluminum mesh is just for bug proofing my cage from the outside
Tbittle511
New Member
Ok thanks. I had seen something similar on another thread
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
No problem!
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
So, again, new plan (I know, sorry!). I’m going to be using 3/4” Columbia Forest Products Purebond Birch Plywood for the substrate bin, using cinderblocks as the stand, and moving the bulkhead back to the very bottom of the front of the cage for drainage. There’ll still be 3-4” of a drainage layer separated from everything else with weed block fabric, so nothing can get down there to the standing water (which will be less than 3/4”, if that). It’s easier than engineering a properly strong stand and I don’t have to worry about fitting a drainage bucket underneath it, as well. I’ll also be using 1/4” Columbia Forest Products Purebond birch plywood for the two background sides. I’m doing this because the substrate will be at least 1/2 ton of weight, and I want a safety factor of 4. MDF isn’t nearly as strong as hardwood plywood. Also, I’d have to use exterior grade MDF, and I’m not comfortable with any chemicals that could be in there. This is definitely twice, if not three times or more, as much the cost of MDF, but for my peace of mind (extra strength and chemical-free), I think it’s worth it. Because of that budget hit, I’ll sadly have to redo the dimensions to 42” long by 30” wide by 60” tall of cham-usable space in the interior of the cage and an 18” deep substrate bin. That way I can use the short side of the plywood for the length of the cage and not have to buy as many sheets of plywood, saving some money. I’ll also be updating all SketchUp files with proper stand supports and and making a new one for this new cage plan, so anyone can use any of the previous designs if they want. I sadly won’t be able to start building until after the new year because I’ll be traveling a ton until then (and am hoping for a table saw for Christmas!). Thanks, again, and sorry!
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