Chameleon only shows interest in Superworms!!

Jhlamotte95

Member
I am new to Chameleons an have notice my Ambanja Panther Chameleon “Rango” only shows interest in Superworms.

Rango is between 8 months to a year old (15”-17” it’s hard to get a good measurement he hates the tape measure). Rango used to only eat Dubai Roaches (when I first got him from an expo about 2 months ago). He Is still very picky an only shows interest in superworms(For about a month an a half).

I have read an have been told that Chameleons like a Variety of insects ( Roaches, Meal Worms, Wax Worms, SuperWorms, Crickets). My guy barley looks a meal worms but will eat a couple. Sometimes will have 3-4 Roaches but will devour Superworms like they’re going out of style sometimes eating up to 10-15 Superworms in a day!

Why is this? I thought superworms will make him fat? What are your thoughts?
 

Attachments

  • 02356380-F95B-4D3C-99D5-352749B86C25.jpeg
    02356380-F95B-4D3C-99D5-352749B86C25.jpeg
    197.4 KB · Views: 73
  • 80C667DF-FBC4-4775-B532-F537F724E400.jpeg
    80C667DF-FBC4-4775-B532-F537F724E400.jpeg
    205.3 KB · Views: 74
  • A4DA6EAF-1871-428D-8889-7F6B41236379.jpeg
    A4DA6EAF-1871-428D-8889-7F6B41236379.jpeg
    106.1 KB · Views: 66
  • 1CB7BDC2-1D4E-49B1-9E12-9A01C33CCA22.jpeg
    1CB7BDC2-1D4E-49B1-9E12-9A01C33CCA22.jpeg
    95 KB · Views: 52
  • 2B63C542-6D3A-40BC-BA51-42159E0B559D.jpeg
    2B63C542-6D3A-40BC-BA51-42159E0B559D.jpeg
    137.5 KB · Views: 57

jamest0o0

Chameleon Enthusiast
Superworms are the marbeled steak to the skinless chicken breast that is a roach and other lean feeders. With that, he's going to choose the superworms 9 times out of 10. You have to feed them less often. There's nothing wrong with them in moderation, they're not junk food like people often say. They are just high in calories and addictive(because they taste good!). Chameleons should get a variety, and gutload helps, which is another thing superworms lack, the ability to hold a lot in their gut. So all of this is why it is important to limit superworms to a couple times a week. You want your cham to have a varied diet and with only superworms, the cham is not getting much variety in nutrients.

Stop feeding them until he readily accepts other food. He will not starve himself to death.
 

Jhlamotte95

Member
Superworms are the marbeled steak to the skinless chicken breast that is a roach and other lean feeders. With that, he's going to choose the superworms 9 times out of 10. You have to feed them less often. There's nothing wrong with them in moderation, they're not junk food like people often say. They are just high in calories and addictive(because they taste good!). Chameleons should get a variety, and gutload helps, which is another thing superworms lack, the ability to hold a lot in their gut. So all of this is why it is important to limit superworms to a couple times a week. You want your cham to have a varied diet and with only superworms, the cham is not getting much variety in nutrients.

Stop feeding them until he readily accepts other food. He will not starve himself to death.
Thank you! I haven’t had Rango or Lizards who are Insectivore to know all the differences.

I do gut load all my insect. I switch it up with Kale, carrot, Spinach or Cabbage while also calcium dusting mostly without D3 calcium an a couple times a week calcium with D3 an multivitamin.

I will take your valued advice an start to chill with the superworms. He’s just grown so much on them it’s hard to starve him I want him to reach his potential. That said I don’t want to start a problem where Rango Isn’t getting all the nutrients he need. Or an irregular diet for his species. The first picture is when I got him the second now.
 

Attachments

  • 196C5098-89A1-42AD-BCB1-B1B5E90A9AD4.png
    196C5098-89A1-42AD-BCB1-B1B5E90A9AD4.png
    1.3 MB · Views: 66
  • ECCAA2CC-4A6F-459F-926A-E016D9BAEC8E.jpeg
    ECCAA2CC-4A6F-459F-926A-E016D9BAEC8E.jpeg
    236.4 KB · Views: 52

Jhlamotte95

Member
Sure one day maybe a year from now I’d like to breed Rango. Also yes, that’s what was in the Chameleon kit when I bought him, they told me that it would be good for him for about a year.
 

AnamCara

Chameleon Enthusiast
Sure one day maybe a year from now I’d like to breed Rango. Also yes, that’s what was in the Chameleon kit when I bought him, they told me that it would be good for him for about a year.

The chameleon kit lead you wrong! (It did to me too when I bought it!) If you would like to breed him than I would say getting your husbandry on lock is very important. When you get a moment please fill out the following form as best as you can.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

Jhlamotte95

Member
The chameleon kit lead you wrong! (It did to me too when I bought it!) If you would like to breed him than I would say getting your husbandry on lock is very important. When you get a moment please fill out the following form as best as you can.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
The chameleon kit lead you wrong! (It did to me too when I bought it!) If you would like to breed him than I would say getting your husbandry on lock is very important. When you get a moment please fill out the following form as best as you can.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Cage- screen the dimensions are Length 16” Width 16” height 30”

LIGHTNING- dual bulb zoomed, power sun 80 watt bulb heat , the UVb light bulb not sure wattage. Before I got the power sun the original heat light from the chameleon kit was a 60 watt, so the UVB is probably around the same power because I haven’t cage the original bulb or have been told too. Daily light schedule 12 hours 7:30AM-7:30PM.

TEMPERATURE -Rango’s cage is 73 degrees to over 100 (during the day) my setup allows multiple basking spots all the way from Top to bottom. I measured this with a temp gage at the top (that was removed from the intense heat all the way at the top. Topping over 110 before screen just was a blurred mess). Bottom temp gage reads top mid way up the cage 82 degrees an 73 degrees as the low. Over night Temp usually no lower than 66 degrees (A COUPLE TIMES) but haven’t honestly check at night to much usually around 70 degrees though.

HUMIDITY- I believe low 65-75% high 90-99% during day I measure this with a Acurite temp gage/humidity gage I mist the cage 2-5 times usually for 25 seconds to almost a minute a day if possible unless right before bed usually a quick spray. Usually at least 3 (in the morning before work, when I get home, before bed).

PLANTS- I do have two live plants (at the bottom near the front near the door) that I can’t recall names for but have photos of.

PLACEMENT- Rango’s cage is located in my living room near the corner wall two feet right of my Living-room TV. There is an AC across the room about 20 feet infront of him the blows far away from him an barely ever runs. It’s just me an my girlfriend who he sees for maybe 4 hours a day of actually seeing us in the living room or kitchen. The cage stands 51 1/2” above the floor.

LOCATION- Warwick, Rhode Island I live in an apartment that is cool with caged lizards.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    208.5 KB · Views: 54
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    202.4 KB · Views: 52
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    112.5 KB · Views: 45
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    94.7 KB · Views: 56
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    150.8 KB · Views: 57

Lennoncham

Chameleon Enthusiast
you forgot the top half of the form. See my feedback in red.

Cage- screen the dimensions are Length 16” Width 16” height 30”

you will want to upgrade this to a 2x2x4

LIGHTNING- dual bulb zoomed, power sun 80 watt bulb heat , the UVb light bulb not sure wattage. Before I got the power sun the original heat light from the chameleon kit was a 60 watt, so the UVB is probably around the same power because I haven’t cage the original bulb or have been told too. Daily light schedule 12 hours 7:30AM-7:30PM.

the power sun is to strong and has uv as well doesn’t it? So you have 2 sources of uv light. But the coil bulbs are junk anyway. You will want to switch this out with a white household bulb and a linear t5 ho uvb bulb.

TEMPERATURE -Rango’s cage is 73 degrees to over 100 (during the day) my setup allows multiple basking spots all the way from Top to bottom. I measured this with a temp gage at the top (that was removed from the intense heat all the way at the top. Topping over 110 before screen just was a blurred mess). Bottom temp gage reads top mid way up the cage 82 degrees an 73 degrees as the low. Over night Temp usually no lower than 66 degrees (A COUPLE TIMES) but haven’t honestly check at night to much usually around 70 degrees though.

100 is to hot. Basking temp should be about 85 -90


HUMIDITY- I believe low 65-75% high 90-99% during day I measure this with a Acurite temp gage/humidity gage I mist the cage 2-5 times usually for 25 seconds to almost a minute a day if possible unless right before bed usually a quick spray. Usually at least 3 (in the morning before work, when I get home, before bed).

You will want lower humidity during the day around 45-50% and higher humidity at night.


PLANTS- I do have two live plants (at the bottom near the front near the door) that I can’t recall names for but have photos of.

PLACEMENT- Rango’s cage is located in my living room near the corner wall two feet right of my Living-room TV. There is an AC across the room about 20 feet infront of him the blows far away from him an barely ever runs. It’s just me an my girlfriend who he sees for maybe 4 hours a day of actually seeing us in the living room or kitchen. The cage stands 51 1/2” above the floor.

LOCATION- Warwick, Rhode Island I live in an apartment that is cool with caged lizards
 

Jhlamotte95

Member
MY CHAMELEON- Male Ambanja Panther Chameleon not sure age they didn’t know when I got him but Reptile store managers who breed ( wish I checked ) them say between 7 months to a year old. I’ve had Rango since July 7, 2019.

HANDLING- Daily once or twice Rango likes to explore he will let me know by sitting right in front of the door while im in the room. Or he will see me an climb down from his basking spot right to the door. I try not to more than once thought some day I don’t at all even if he wants to come out. I used to put my hand in his cage for a minute long not touching anything to let him no I’m cool an one day he crawled up my an has been cool with handling ever since.

FEEDING- lots of Superworms 4-10 most days some times 12-15. some meal worms occasionally, wax worms both worms eaten no more than 4 ever. Is offered a lot all the time too. Dubai roaches medium occasionally 3-5 a day. No cricket apartment manager will not allow . All insects gut loaded I switch up what feed them as well (carrots, cabbage, kale, spinach)

SUPPLEMENTS- repti Calcuim without d3 5 times a week. Fluker’s Repta Calcium with d3 twice a week (Mon-Tue) Herptivite with beta carotene twice a week (Mon-Tue)

WATERING- I use a dropper made out of a water bottle ‍♂️ It works. I use a pump power sprayer. The water is filtered out of the faucet through a Brita water pitcher then put into the pump sprayer which has a mist setting. I mist for about 35-45 seconds 2-5 times a day.

FETAL DESCRIPTION- about an inch to two inches long light to dark brown, moist nothing moving with a very white tip ( I hear that’s they’re urine). Never tested going in for a check-up the 19th of this month.

HISTORY-NONE ‍♂️ They didn’t give me any
 

Jhlamotte95

Member
you forgot the top half of the form. See my feedback in red.

Cage- screen the dimensions are Length 16” Width 16” height 30”

you will want to upgrade this to a 2x2x4

LIGHTNING- dual bulb zoomed, power sun 80 watt bulb heat , the UVb light bulb not sure wattage. Before I got the power sun the original heat light from the chameleon kit was a 60 watt, so the UVB is probably around the same power because I haven’t cage the original bulb or have been told too. Daily light schedule 12 hours 7:30AM-7:30PM.

the power sun is to strong and has uv as well doesn’t it? So you have 2 sources of uv light. But the coil bulbs are junk anyway. You will want to switch this out with a white household bulb and a linear t5 ho uvb bulb.

TEMPERATURE -Rango’s cage is 73 degrees to over 100 (during the day) my setup allows multiple basking spots all the way from Top to bottom. I measured this with a temp gage at the top (that was removed from the intense heat all the way at the top. Topping over 110 before screen just was a blurred mess). Bottom temp gage reads top mid way up the cage 82 degrees an 73 degrees as the low. Over night Temp usually no lower than 66 degrees (A COUPLE TIMES) but haven’t honestly check at night to much usually around 70 degrees though.

100 is to hot. Basking temp should be about 85 -90


HUMIDITY- I believe low 65-75% high 90-99% during day I measure this with a Acurite temp gage/humidity gage I mist the cage 2-5 times usually for 25 seconds to almost a minute a day if possible unless right before bed usually a quick spray. Usually at least 3 (in the morning before work, when I get home, before bed).

You will want lower humidity during the day around 45-50% and higher humidity at night.


PLANTS- I do have two live plants (at the bottom near the front near the door) that I can’t recall names for but have photos of.

PLACEMENT- Rango’s cage is located in my living room near the corner wall two feet right of my Living-room TV. There is an AC across the room about 20 feet infront of him the blows far away from him an barely ever runs. It’s just me an my girlfriend who he sees for maybe 4 hours a day of actually seeing us in the living room or kitchen. The cage stands 51 1/2” above the floor.

LOCATION- Warwick, Rhode Island I live in an apartment that is cool with caged lizards
Ok Thank you I will make those changes.
An true 100 is to hot but is it a problem if he can go lower an lower in the cage the way it’s set Rango can bask at the very top middle bottom. So he can just find his sweet spot.
 

Lennoncham

Chameleon Enthusiast
MY CHAMELEON- Male Ambanja Panther Chameleon not sure age they didn’t know when I got him but Reptile store managers who breed ( wish I checked ) them say between 7 months to a year old. I’ve had Rango since July 7, 2019.

HANDLING- Daily once or twice Rango likes to explore he will let me know by sitting right in front of the door while im in the room. Or he will see me an climb down from his basking spot right to the door. I try not to more than once thought some day I don’t at all even if he wants to come out. I used to put my hand in his cage for a minute long not touching anything to let him no I’m cool an one day he crawled up my an has been cool with handling ever since.

he may be wanting out of his cage because he’s looking for a new better spot.

FEEDING- lots of Superworms 4-10 most days some times 12-15. some meal worms occasionally, wax worms both worms eaten no more than 4 ever. Is offered a lot all the time too. Dubai roaches medium occasionally 3-5 a day. No cricket apartment manager will not allow . All insects gut loaded I switch up what feed them as well (carrots, cabbage, kale, spinach)

James covered this already. I’ll just add that spinach is not recommended not sure about the cabbage either

SUPPLEMENTS- repti Calcuim without d3 5 times a week. Fluker’s Repta Calcium with d3 twice a week (Mon-Tue) Herptivite with beta carotene twice a week (Mon-Tue)
twice a week is to much for d3 and multivitamin should be twice a month.
WATERING- I use a dropper made out of a water bottle ‍♂ It works. I use a pump power sprayer. The water is filtered out of the faucet through a Brita water pitcher then put into the pump sprayer which has a mist setting. I mist for about 35-45 seconds 2-5 times a day.

FETAL DESCRIPTION- about an inch to two inches long light to dark brown, moist nothing moving with a very white tip ( I hear that’s they’re urine). Never tested going in for a check-up the 19th of this month.

HISTORY-NONE ‍♂ They didn’t give me any
 

Lennoncham

Chameleon Enthusiast
Ok Thank you I will make those changes.
An true 100 is to hot but is it a problem if he can go lower an lower in the cage the way it’s set Rango can bask at the very top middle bottom. So he can just find his sweet spot.

Your basking branch is to high. They can move out of the way but they don’t always recognize they are overheating and can get thermal burns.
 

AnamCara

Chameleon Enthusiast
you forgot the top half of the form. See my feedback in red.

Cage- screen the dimensions are Length 16” Width 16” height 30”

you will want to upgrade this to a 2x2x4

LIGHTNING- dual bulb zoomed, power sun 80 watt bulb heat , the UVb light bulb not sure wattage. Before I got the power sun the original heat light from the chameleon kit was a 60 watt, so the UVB is probably around the same power because I haven’t cage the original bulb or have been told too. Daily light schedule 12 hours 7:30AM-7:30PM.

the power sun is to strong and has uv as well doesn’t it? So you have 2 sources of uv light. But the coil bulbs are junk anyway. You will want to switch this out with a white household bulb and a linear t5 ho uvb bulb.

TEMPERATURE -Rango’s cage is 73 degrees to over 100 (during the day) my setup allows multiple basking spots all the way from Top to bottom. I measured this with a temp gage at the top (that was removed from the intense heat all the way at the top. Topping over 110 before screen just was a blurred mess). Bottom temp gage reads top mid way up the cage 82 degrees an 73 degrees as the low. Over night Temp usually no lower than 66 degrees (A COUPLE TIMES) but haven’t honestly check at night to much usually around 70 degrees though.

100 is to hot. Basking temp should be about 85 -90


HUMIDITY- I believe low 65-75% high 90-99% during day I measure this with a Acurite temp gage/humidity gage I mist the cage 2-5 times usually for 25 seconds to almost a minute a day if possible unless right before bed usually a quick spray. Usually at least 3 (in the morning before work, when I get home, before bed).

You will want lower humidity during the day around 45-50% and higher humidity at night.


PLANTS- I do have two live plants (at the bottom near the front near the door) that I can’t recall names for but have photos of.

PLACEMENT- Rango’s cage is located in my living room near the corner wall two feet right of my Living-room TV. There is an AC across the room about 20 feet infront of him the blows far away from him an barely ever runs. It’s just me an my girlfriend who he sees for maybe 4 hours a day of actually seeing us in the living room or kitchen. The cage stands 51 1/2” above the floor.

LOCATION- Warwick, Rhode Island I live in an apartment that is cool with caged lizards

Woot. Very good advice here!

I have put my notes on the remaining form in red below:

MY CHAMELEON- Male Ambanja Panther Chameleon not sure age they didn’t know when I got him but Reptile store managers who breed ( wish I checked ) them say between 7 months to a year old. I’ve had Rango since July 7, 2019.

HANDLING- Daily once or twice Rango likes to explore he will let me know by sitting right in front of the door while im in the room. Or he will see me an climb down from his basking spot right to the door. I try not to more than once thought some day I don’t at all even if he wants to come out. I used to put my hand in his cage for a minute long not touching anything to let him no I’m cool an one day he crawled up my an has been cool with handling ever since. good :)

FEEDING- lots of Superworms 4-10 most days some times 12-15. some meal worms occasionally, wax worms both worms eaten no more than 4 ever. Is offered a lot all the time too. Dubai roaches medium occasionally 3-5 a day. No cricket apartment manager will not allow . All insects gut loaded I switch up what feed them as well (carrots, cabbage, kale, spinach) good. It will likely take him a bit to accept variety. Took my girl a bit.

SUPPLEMENTS- repti Calcuim without d3 5 times a week. Fluker’s Repta Calcium with d3 twice a week (Mon-Tue) Herptivite with beta carotene twice a week (Mon-Tue) a traditional schedule would be phosphorus free calcium powder at everg feeding. Calcium with d3 two times a month and multivitamin with vitamin a two times a month--alternating weeks with the d3. Many keepers have switched to Calcium Plus LoD from repashy as an all in one supplement.

WATERING- I use a dropper made out of a water bottle ‍♂ It works. I use a pump power sprayer. The water is filtered out of the faucet through a Brita water pitcher then put into the pump sprayer which has a mist setting. I mist for about 35-45 seconds 2-5 times a day. i do a 5 minute mist right before the lights come on and a 6 minute mist about an hour after they go off. Be careful with increased humidity under high heat. You want to spray for at least 2 minutes minimum to trigger drinking and allow enough droplets to form on leaves. Dripper runs until about 2pm

FETAL DESCRIPTION- about an inch to two inches long light to dark brown, moist nothing moving with a very white tip ( I hear that’s they’re urine). Never tested going in for a check-up the 19th of this month. good. A fecal is highly recommended.

HISTORY-NONE ‍♂ They didn’t give me any
 
Last edited:

Kaizen

Chameleon Enthusiast
I’m super happy you came to this forum; welcome!!! Just want to add my two cents worth: your supplement schedule is less than ideal. Until you’re better versed on supplementation regimes, using something like ‘repashy calcium plus LoD’ to dust your feeders at every feeding is a far better measure than the supplement regime you’ve described. Absolutely not trying to be a d$Ck, but using a multivitamin like herptivite twice a week is too much.
 
Top Bottom