Chameleon future owner

Welcome! Lots of great advice already in this thread. :)

I'm currently working on a bioactive conversion for a ReptiBreeze, and can attest to the ReptiBreeze rusting when left in consistent contact with water. However, if you don't mind some extra prep you can add a couple coats of a rust inhibiting paint, or a rubberized coating to extend its lifespan! I just finished touching up my rusting ReptiBreeze with Rustoleum spray paint.

The great thing about having a planter box that the cage rests on is the fact that you can technically cycle the bioactive portion separately from the enclosure! So, theoretically you can have your boy in the ReptiBreeze with a free draining bottom, while cycling the bioactive bin elsewhere. Then you wouldn't have to wait to bring your boy home! General cycling time seems to vary depending on who you ask, but I'd aim for 2 week to a month. My existing build is a month old, and has only just finished stabilizing!

My much handier grandpa whipped me up a simple box planter for use with my ReptiBreeze build, and I have since coated inside with LiquidRubber (equivalent to Flexseal) and plan on adding a vinyl liner as well to ensure that I won't have any water seepage.

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A plastic tote would also work, though less aesthetically pleasing! Maybe if you took a plastic tote and disguised the outside... :unsure:
Yes! I love the look of that! I'm definitely going to see if my dad can help me out here! Thank you so much! So you'd add the vinyl liner before you add substrate? Will you have a drain? Or a piece of PVC you could pump water out with if needed?
 
I can only speak from my personal experiences but I started with bio active setups from the get go. Our first was for a crestie and when looking to get my 1st cham, got the setup up and running about 5-6 weeks in advance.

In the UK, we're a bit limited as to the enclosures readily available so had to go with the Exo Terra XL-XT and I've been really happy them.

You are always going to want to tweak things when setting up, bio active or not, so it does help to give yourself that time to get things dialled in.

I love the wooden planter boxes above for screen or clear sides and I'm currently working on a DIY cabinet conversion myself, again bio active. (Not for a cham this time)

I honestly don't think bio active setups are particularly hard to start with or look after. The only real maintenance I have do is cutting back the plants as they grow out of control.

The main reason I choose these setups is simply that I like to replicate the animals natural environment as closely as I can. The same goes for my marine fish, live rock, fish only works but only having that little piece of a reef in the living room, as natural as I can replicate, works for me.

Your new little guy looks stunning btw.
 
Yes! I love the look of that! I'm definitely going to see if my dad can help me out here! Thank you so much! So you'd add the vinyl liner before you add substrate? Will you have a drain? Or a piece of PVC you could pump water out with if needed?

Yeah, I'm planning to add a vinyl liner (in my case, a translucent heavy duty shower curtain) before adding the substrate. I'm too paranoid to skip the liner! The Liquid rubber is mostly being used to protect against condensation. I won't be using staples, and will let the substrate and cage weigh it down/keep it in place. I'll be adding a PVC pipe for access, like I did for my existing build, and use a siphon as necessary. It'll be a little more difficult to gauge water levels, given the wooden box, but figure if I check it once a week or two I'll be golden!

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I can only speak from my personal experiences but I started with bio active setups from the get go. Our first was for a crestie and when looking to get my 1st cham, got the setup up and running about 5-6 weeks in advance.

In the UK, we're a bit limited as to the enclosures readily available so had to go with the Exo Terra XL-XT and I've been really happy them.

You are always going to want to tweak things when setting up, bio active or not, so it does help to give yourself that time to get things dialled in.

I love the wooden planter boxes above for screen or clear sides and I'm currently working on a DIY cabinet conversion myself, again bio active. (Not for a cham this time)

I honestly don't think bio active setups are particularly hard to start with or look after. The only real maintenance I have do is cutting back the plants as they grow out of control.

The main reason I choose these setups is simply that I like to replicate the animals natural environment as closely as I can. The same goes for my marine fish, live rock, fish only works but only having that little piece of a reef in the living room, as natural as I can replicate, works for me.

Your new little guy looks stunning btw.
Thank you very much. This is all great information! I agree, I definitely like the idea of replicating their natural habitat as best as I can! And thank you! I can't wait to get him!
 
Yeah, I'm planning to add a vinyl liner (in my case, a translucent heavy duty shower curtain) before adding the substrate. I'm too paranoid to skip the liner! The Liquid rubber is mostly being used to protect against condensation. I won't be using staples, and will let the substrate and cage weigh it down/keep it in place. I'll be adding a PVC pipe for access, like I did for my existing build, and use a siphon as necessary. It'll be a little more difficult to gauge water levels, given the wooden box, but figure if I check it once a week or two I'll be golden!

View attachment 248028
Makes sense! I'm adding a liner to my list! Thanks for the pictures and the information!
 
Yeah, I'm planning to add a vinyl liner (in my case, a translucent heavy duty shower curtain) before adding the substrate. I'm too paranoid to skip the liner! The Liquid rubber is mostly being used to protect against condensation. I won't be using staples, and will let the substrate and cage weigh it down/keep it in place. I'll be adding a PVC pipe for access, like I did for my existing build, and use a siphon as necessary. It'll be a little more difficult to gauge water levels, given the wooden box, but figure if I check it once a week or two I'll be golden!

View attachment 248028
A simple dip stick would work maybe?
 
Welcome! Lots of great advice already in this thread. :)

I'm currently working on a bioactive conversion for a ReptiBreeze, and can attest to the ReptiBreeze rusting when left in consistent contact with water. However, if you don't mind some extra prep you can add a couple coats of a rust inhibiting paint, or a rubberized coating to extend its lifespan! I just finished touching up my rusting ReptiBreeze with Rustoleum spray paint.

The great thing about having a planter box that the cage rests on is the fact that you can technically cycle the bioactive portion separately from the enclosure! So, theoretically you can have your boy in the ReptiBreeze with a free draining bottom, while cycling the bioactive bin elsewhere. Then you wouldn't have to wait to bring your boy home! General cycling time seems to vary depending on who you ask, but I'd aim for 2 week to a month. My existing build is a month old, and has only just finished stabilizing!

My much handier grandpa whipped me up a simple box planter for use with my ReptiBreeze build, and I have since coated inside with LiquidRubber (equivalent to Flexseal) and plan on adding a vinyl liner as well to ensure that I won't have any water seepage.

View attachment 248021

View attachment 248022

View attachment 248023

A plastic tote would also work, though less aesthetically pleasing! Maybe if you took a plastic tote and disguised the outside... :unsure:

Cycle time, what's cycle time?! :LOL: I agree though, take a week or two tracking if it's your first one. I've gotten so used to how my way of setting up new ones I don't necessarily cycle mine anymore.

Weed block, a layer of safe t sorb to the second knuckle of my middle finger, weed block, layer of safe t sorb about 1/4 of my thumb nail, light sprinkling of dirt to cover the second layer of safe t sorb, medium dusting of plant tone, set larger plants fill to level needed for smaller plants (if there are any, other wise I go half way up the root ball for the next steps), medium sprinkling of safe t sorb, medium dusting of plant tone, light sprinkling of osmocote, finish filling dirt, cap with leaf litter, giant canyons and springtails. After all that it's get the mister/s aimed where I want, heavy watering then add occupant next day.
 
Cycle time, what's cycle time?! :LOL: I agree though, take a week or two tracking if it's your first one. I've gotten so used to how my way of setting up new ones I don't necessarily cycle mine anymore.

Weed block, a layer of safe t sorb to the second knuckle of my middle finger, weed block, layer of safe t sorb about 1/4 of my thumb nail, light sprinkling of dirt to cover the second layer of safe t sorb, medium dusting of plant tone, set larger plants fill to level needed for smaller plants (if there are any, other wise I go half way up the root ball for the next steps), medium sprinkling of safe t sorb, medium dusting of plant tone, light sprinkling of osmocote, finish filling dirt, cap with leaf litter, giant canyons and springtails. After all that it's get the mister/s aimed where I want, heavy watering then add occupant next day.
Thank you. That’s really helpful!
 
Cycle time, what's cycle time?! :LOL: I agree though, take a week or two tracking if it's your first one. I've gotten so used to how my way of setting up new ones I don't necessarily cycle mine anymore.

Weed block, a layer of safe t sorb to the second knuckle of my middle finger, weed block, layer of safe t sorb about 1/4 of my thumb nail, light sprinkling of dirt to cover the second layer of safe t sorb, medium dusting of plant tone, set larger plants fill to level needed for smaller plants (if there are any, other wise I go half way up the root ball for the next steps), medium sprinkling of safe t sorb, medium dusting of plant tone, light sprinkling of osmocote, finish filling dirt, cap with leaf litter, giant canyons and springtails. After all that it's get the mister/s aimed where I want, heavy watering then add occupant next day.

To be fair, my "cycle time" is mostly to allow the plants to adjust before there's an inhabitant climbing all over them! :LOL: To a lesser extent, it also allows the CuC to establisha population. For chameleons/arboreal species, not a huge issue. For a ground dwelling species liable to gobble up at least some of the resident help? Probably best to let them breed first, or add a whole lot of them!

You could absolutely just stick the inhabitant right in there if you're confident with your parameters. Just be aware that bioactive enclosures can have humidity spikes/condensation over the first couple weeks (especially in glass terrariums) and chances are you'll be fine! There's usually some degree of mold/fungal bloom in the first week or two as well, though it's a natural part of the cycle and unlikely to cause harm. I had some plant die off and such during the first couple weeks, and had to re do a bunch of my moss... which wasnt a big issue, since Lily is a perch potato and really loves her basking branch, but could have been a problem if she was more active than she is!

That'a my reasoning, at least!
 
To be fair, my "cycle time" is mostly to allow the plants to adjust before there's an inhabitant climbing all over them! :LOL: To a lesser extent, it also allows the CuC to establisha population. For chameleons/arboreal species, not a huge issue. For a ground dwelling species liable to gobble up at least some of the resident help? Probably best to let them breed first, or add a whole lot of them!

You could absolutely just stick the inhabitant right in there if you're confident with your parameters. Just be aware that bioactive enclosures can have humidity spikes/condensation over the first couple weeks (especially in glass terrariums) and chances are you'll be fine! There's usually some degree of mold/fungal bloom in the first week or two as well, though it's a natural part of the cycle and unlikely to cause harm. I had some plant die off and such during the first couple weeks, and had to re do a bunch of my moss... which wasnt a big issue, since Lily is a perch potato and really loves her basking branch, but could have been a problem if she was more active than she is!

That'a my reasoning, at least!

And all very valid points which is why I agree on giving it time, especially if you're not used to setting them up. I'm just lucky enough to have a gooood sized colony/s of giant canyons and springtails for the chams lol. The snakes get dwarf purples, springtails and red wrigglers.

The plant tone has mycorrhizae and is a fairly fine powder. I like to add two layers to get a good jump start on the bb in the dirt ;) .
 
And all very valid points which is why I agree on giving it time, especially if you're not used to setting them up. I'm just lucky enough to have a gooood sized colony/s of giant canyons and springtails for the chams lol. The snakes get dwarf purples, springtails and red wrigglers.

The plant tone has mycorrhizae and is a fairly fine powder. I like to add two layers to get a good jump start on the bb in the dirt ;) .

Ugh, I've been having a heck of a time finding Plant Tone here! I ended up caving and basing my substrate mix on ProMix HP, which contains mycorrhizae to begin with.

Next month's project is scratching in some osmocote. What breakdown do you use? I have some hanging basket (15 - 15 - 15) stuff kicking around that I was eyeing!
 
Ugh, I've been having a heck of a time finding Plant Tone here! I ended up caving and basing my substrate mix on ProMix HP, which contains mycorrhizae to begin with.

Next month's project is scratching in some osmocote. What breakdown do you use? I have some hanging basket (15 - 15 - 15) stuff kicking around that I was eyeing!

:eek:, not sure I'd ever be able to make it in Canada :ROFLMAO:. Your selections sucks up there haha. I use indoor/ outdoor that I had left over from my planted tanks. I think it's 15-9-12 if I remember correctly, the plant tone is 5-3-3.

Btw, a muffin fan or two should help "even" out the spikes you mentioned. I use one on each of my glass cham cages. Will probably have to run them on predator and celtic's when I get done with them to keep the humidity in control too. Blade's should be fine since he is 70 to 80% requirements.
 
:eek:, not sure I'd ever be able to make it in Canada :ROFLMAO:. Your selections sucks up there haha. I use indoor/ outdoor that I had left over from my planted tanks. I think it's 15-9-12 if I remember correctly, the plant tone is 5-3-3.

Btw, a muffin fan or two should help "even" out the spikes you mentioned. I use one on each of my glass cham cages. Will probably have to run them on predator and celtic's when I get done with them to keep the humidity in control too. Blade's should be fine since he is 70 to 80% requirements.

I'm telling you, Canada is awful for everything related to this hobby! No feeder selection, smaller enclosure selection, fewer well recognized brands... I think y'all should adopt me and take turns smuggling me the goods! :ROFLMAO:

Yeah, DC fans are great for evening out humidity in glass! I dropped one of my doors for the ExoTerra and am now running doorless, so I never really got the humidity spikes. But a DC fan or two was my plan prior to door droppage. :oops:

My pseudo door:

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You're welcome, do you have a place to get compost dirt from?
I have some garden centers. I'll look there. If not is there an online option? Some of the videos I've seen on here are of people mixing their own. Which is the preferred method?
 
I'm telling you, Canada is awful for everything related to this hobby! No feeder selection, smaller enclosure selection, fewer well recognized brands... I think y'all should adopt me and take turns smuggling me the goods! :ROFLMAO:

Yeah, DC fans are great for evening out humidity in glass! I dropped one of my doors for the ExoTerra and am now running doorless, so I never really got the humidity spikes. But a DC fan or two was my plan prior to door droppage. :oops:

My pseudo door:

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Deal!!! Now then, you have to smuggle me a cheap lemon tree like yours though :ROFLMAO: . I like that quick fix door though. I really wish zilla would come out with larger (big exo style) glass cages. Between the 3 brands I own, atasuki is my fav (sadly only one that would work for adult chams is the 48x18x48 though), zilla a close second with exo last. I didn't like the zoo meds though the glass thickness is great on them.
 
I have some garden centers. I'll look there. If not is there an online option? Some of the videos I've seen on here are of people mixing their own. Which is the preferred method?

I'd buy local if you can - very expensive to ship due to the weight! Where abouts are you located? An easy mix to start with is Sunshine Mix #4 (states or Canada) or ProMix HP (Canada). They're both highly porous planting mixes that require little (if any) amendment and can be used practically as is.
 
Deal!!! Now then, you have to smuggle me a cheap lemon tree like yours though :ROFLMAO: . I like that quick fix door though. I really wish zilla would come out with larger (big exo style) glass cages. Between the 3 brands I own, atasuki is my fav (sadly only one that would work for adult chams is the 48x18x48 though), zilla a close second with exo last. I didn't like the zoo meds though the glass thickness is great on them.

Deal - plant/bug swap! :ROFLMAO:

And thank you! It's the best I could come up with on the fly. I think I'll get some nice pleather to make a real border, gussy it up a little!

I havent seen any other terrarium brands here other than ExoTerra, I don't think... at least not any of the larger ones! I'll have to actually open my eyes when I next go to the reptile store!
 
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