Will Hayward
New Member
I have compiled some tips for those of you that build cages, or want to but do not know how. Please not that myself nor my father are carpenters, in fact we are as everyone jokes, "Crapenters". However, that doesn't mean that over the last few cage designs and revisions that we haven't made progression in ideas and the way we implement them. Hopefully there are some of you who can pick up some of these random tips and put them to good use- though some may be common knowledge for those with at least some understanding of carpentry or woodworking.
My favourite type of wood to build with are either 2x2s or 2x1s Pine. Rough cut for utility cages, or fine cut for display cages. This is thin, soft wood, so be sure to check the straightness of it when picking pieces. Don't be afraid to look through 100 pieces to pick out 20 of them in the store.
My favourite mesh is hard to say... For the tops where heat lamps rest upon I recommend either Aluminum Mesh Screen or Metal Hardware Cloth (without plastic coating).
For the sidewalls I recommend either a Petscreen or a painted Fiberglass mesh screen.
Use a sealant (Urethan has no fumes like silicone does, it's also stiffer) to go around the edges of mesh to insure bugs don't squeeze through. Use staples to secure it down though.
If walls are needed, and transparency is not an issue, walls can be made from corrugated plastic. This has been the miracle material to many cages of mine and others. Cheap, lightweight, strong, yet flexible. Easily cut with an exacto knife. Washes easily.
Paint: I use Indoor Latex Solventless-Odor Free Paint. It has a really rubbery feel after a couple coats, which is nice in my opinion and it also dries and cures fairly fast. Water beads on it. To further ensure the longterm use of your cage and prevent water damage, I suggest using Urethane sealant to caulk the edges of wood, or fill gaps.
The Cross-Halving Joint:
-Strength & Support
-Flush frames
Tools Required: Miter, Glue, Drill, screw Driver
Support your corners!
They are the crucial point for structure and stability of the cage. Who wants a wobbly cage.
Use glue, screws (No nails!), braces.
Misting Systems
-Take into mind that nozzles have a distance and spread mesurement. Mine are 18" wide spray at 36" below nozzle. So, to avoid the spray from exiting the walls, the cage if only 36" tall would have to be wider than 18x18". Orrrr If the cage was 18x18", then it would need to be less than 36" tall.
-I place the nozzle brace off to one side so that the area where the heat lamp fixture is put, is not over top of it.
-Plastic Nozzles generally come in two parts that screw together. These can be sandwiched around a piece of wood if it is thin enough. Use a spade bit to thin out a circular area in the wood in order to achieve a thickness where the nozzle pieces can join.
Keeping them off the Screen!
-Protects screen from damage from plant or chameleon
-Protects your poor chameleons nails and toes from injury
Materials: Staples, Plastic link fencing.
(as seen in the photo, I was experimenting with thin, perforated, fabric walls in cages.)
My favourite type of wood to build with are either 2x2s or 2x1s Pine. Rough cut for utility cages, or fine cut for display cages. This is thin, soft wood, so be sure to check the straightness of it when picking pieces. Don't be afraid to look through 100 pieces to pick out 20 of them in the store.
My favourite mesh is hard to say... For the tops where heat lamps rest upon I recommend either Aluminum Mesh Screen or Metal Hardware Cloth (without plastic coating).
For the sidewalls I recommend either a Petscreen or a painted Fiberglass mesh screen.
Use a sealant (Urethan has no fumes like silicone does, it's also stiffer) to go around the edges of mesh to insure bugs don't squeeze through. Use staples to secure it down though.
If walls are needed, and transparency is not an issue, walls can be made from corrugated plastic. This has been the miracle material to many cages of mine and others. Cheap, lightweight, strong, yet flexible. Easily cut with an exacto knife. Washes easily.
Paint: I use Indoor Latex Solventless-Odor Free Paint. It has a really rubbery feel after a couple coats, which is nice in my opinion and it also dries and cures fairly fast. Water beads on it. To further ensure the longterm use of your cage and prevent water damage, I suggest using Urethane sealant to caulk the edges of wood, or fill gaps.
The Cross-Halving Joint:
-Strength & Support
-Flush frames
Tools Required: Miter, Glue, Drill, screw Driver
Support your corners!
They are the crucial point for structure and stability of the cage. Who wants a wobbly cage.
Use glue, screws (No nails!), braces.
Misting Systems
-Take into mind that nozzles have a distance and spread mesurement. Mine are 18" wide spray at 36" below nozzle. So, to avoid the spray from exiting the walls, the cage if only 36" tall would have to be wider than 18x18". Orrrr If the cage was 18x18", then it would need to be less than 36" tall.
-I place the nozzle brace off to one side so that the area where the heat lamp fixture is put, is not over top of it.
-Plastic Nozzles generally come in two parts that screw together. These can be sandwiched around a piece of wood if it is thin enough. Use a spade bit to thin out a circular area in the wood in order to achieve a thickness where the nozzle pieces can join.
Keeping them off the Screen!
-Protects screen from damage from plant or chameleon
-Protects your poor chameleons nails and toes from injury
Materials: Staples, Plastic link fencing.
(as seen in the photo, I was experimenting with thin, perforated, fabric walls in cages.)
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