Bee pollen ...

SteveH

Chameleon Enthusiast
Here's a informative article co written up by my mentor some years ago that I thought some of you might find it interesting...


The Mystery of Bee Pollen Unleashed

BEE POLLEN What is pollen? The grains of pollen are microscopic gameotophytes (male reproductive units) that form in the anthers of flowering plants.
What is bee pollen? Pollen that is collected by honey bees and is referred to as bee pollen. It is the simplest and actually only realistic available source of pollen, as it is collected by bees and from them it is by special pollen traps collected, packed and sold by beekeepers.
Why consider pollen as food supplement for chameleons? It is an integral daily part of the diet of wild chameleons. Chameleons in general prefer feeding on flying insects, such as bees, wasps, flies and small beetles. All these feeders are heavily dusted with pollen. The bees even carry two granules of pollen on their legs. For chameleons it is therefore very natural to be permanently supplied with pollen.
What is the composition of pollen? Bee Pollen contains (at least): 22 amino acids 18 vitamins 25 minerals 59 trace elements 11 enzymes and co-enzymes 14 fatty acids 11 carbohydrates natural antibiotics potent antioxidants sugars (up to 40%) proteins (up to 40%)
What are the benefits of pollen? It provides nutrition (amino acids, proteins) It provides vitamins It provides important elements It provides important minerals it provides important amino acids Therefore: It boosts immunity it builds resistance to diseases It provides a natural antibiotic shield against diseases
Where can you get it? Local beekeepers Walmart Pharmacy Amazon In what form is it available? Granules, collected by bees on their feet using special comb-like structures to collect and form granules, Powder, usually filled in capsules.
How to store it? Bee pollen is dried pollen, that is best to be stored in hermetically closed jars in dark at room temperature, otherwise it hydrates, oxides, is degraded by fungi and bacteria.
How can we provide it to chameleons? There are basically four options: 1. gutload your feeders 2. make the feeders a little moist and dust them with pollen (so that it does not fall off) 3. dissolve the pollen in water and let them drink it 4. make the chameleon open mouth and put directly in it and add some water to swallow.
How often should it be given? Every meal! In the wild, chameleons ingest pollen with almost every bite. So, in captivity it is logical to follow the same frequency. How important is pollen to chameleons? As it is an integral part of the natural diet of bees, it is for chameleons of crucial importance.
We in general do not feed to chameleons what they eat in the wild (flying insects, bees, wasps, small beetles), instead we feed them, what they never eat in the nature (crickets, roaches, locusts, larvae of beetles, butterflies and moths). Pollen can help to close a bit of the gap. Not providing pollen can lead to avitaminoses, weekend immune system, diseases and death. Providing bee pollen should be considered a part of best practice in chameleon husbandry. It is of same importance as providing: UV Supplements and vitamins Calcium.
Additional details: Vitamins:�Provitamin A (carotenoids),�Vitamin B1 (thiamine),�Vitamin B2 (riboflavin), �Vitamin B3 (niacin, nicotinamide), �Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid),�Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine), Vitamin B9 (folic acid),�Vitamin B12 (cyanocobalamin),�Vitamin C (ascorbic acid),�Vitamin D (D3, cholecalciferol), Vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol succinate),�Vitamin H (biotin),�Vitamin K, Choline, Inositol,�Rutin.� Minerals: B (boron), Ca (calcium), Cl (chlorine), Cu (copper), Fe (iron), I (iodine), K (potassium), Ma (manganese), Mg (magnesium), Mo (molybdenum), Na (sodium), P (phosphorus), S (sulphur), Se (selenium), Si (silica), Sn (zinc), Fatty Acids: Caproic (C-6) - Caprylic (C-8), Capric (C-10) - Lauric (C-12), Myristic (C-14) - Palmitic (C-16), Palmitic (C-15), Uncowa - Stearic (C-18), Oleic (C-18), Linoleic (C-18), Arachidic (C-20) - Stearic (C-22), Linolenic (C-18), Eicosanoic (C-20), Brucic (C-22). Carbohydrates:�Cellulose Sporonine, Gums, Pentosans,�Starch,�Sugars (30-40%):� Sucrose,� Fructose,� Glucose.� Enzymes & Co-enzymes:�Amylase, Cataiase, Cozymase. Cytochrome systems, Diaphorase, Disstase, Lactic dehydrogenase, Phosphatase, Pectase, Saccharase, Succinic dehydrogenase.Ti (titanium).
Amino acids: Alanine, Arginine, Aspartic acid, Butyric acid, Cystine, Glutamic acid, Glycine, Histidine, Hydroxyproline, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Thresonine, Tryptophan, Tyrosine, Valine. Minerals: Alpha-Amino-Butyric Acid, Auxins, Brassins, Crocetin, Diglycerides, Gibberellins, Guanine, Hexodecanol, Hypoxalthine, Kinins, Lycopene, Monoglycerides, Nucleosides, Peutosaus, Triglycerides, Vernine, Xanthine, Zeaxanthin
Pigments:�Alpha & Beta Carotene, Xarmmepayll. Miscellaneous: Amines, Flavonoids, Glucoside of Isorhanstin, Glycosides of Quercetir, Growth Factors, Growth Isorhanetin, Guanine, Hypoxant
By Petr Necas
(with contribution by Elise Stein)
Screenshot_20220929-134845_Facebook.jpg
 
Here's a informative article co written up by my mentor some years ago that I thought some of you might find it interesting...


The Mystery of Bee Pollen Unleashed

BEE POLLEN What is pollen? The grains of pollen are microscopic gameotophytes (male reproductive units) that form in the anthers of flowering plants.
What is bee pollen? Pollen that is collected by honey bees and is referred to as bee pollen. It is the simplest and actually only realistic available source of pollen, as it is collected by bees and from them it is by special pollen traps collected, packed and sold by beekeepers.
Why consider pollen as food supplement for chameleons? It is an integral daily part of the diet of wild chameleons. Chameleons in general prefer feeding on flying insects, such as bees, wasps, flies and small beetles. All these feeders are heavily dusted with pollen. The bees even carry two granules of pollen on their legs. For chameleons it is therefore very natural to be permanently supplied with pollen.
What is the composition of pollen? Bee Pollen contains (at least): 22 amino acids 18 vitamins 25 minerals 59 trace elements 11 enzymes and co-enzymes 14 fatty acids 11 carbohydrates natural antibiotics potent antioxidants sugars (up to 40%) proteins (up to 40%)
What are the benefits of pollen? It provides nutrition (amino acids, proteins) It provides vitamins It provides important elements It provides important minerals it provides important amino acids Therefore: It boosts immunity it builds resistance to diseases It provides a natural antibiotic shield against diseases
Where can you get it? Local beekeepers Walmart Pharmacy Amazon In what form is it available? Granules, collected by bees on their feet using special comb-like structures to collect and form granules, Powder, usually filled in capsules.
How to store it? Bee pollen is dried pollen, that is best to be stored in hermetically closed jars in dark at room temperature, otherwise it hydrates, oxides, is degraded by fungi and bacteria.
How can we provide it to chameleons? There are basically four options: 1. gutload your feeders 2. make the feeders a little moist and dust them with pollen (so that it does not fall off) 3. dissolve the pollen in water and let them drink it 4. make the chameleon open mouth and put directly in it and add some water to swallow.
How often should it be given? Every meal! In the wild, chameleons ingest pollen with almost every bite. So, in captivity it is logical to follow the same frequency. How important is pollen to chameleons? As it is an integral part of the natural diet of bees, it is for chameleons of crucial importance.
We in general do not feed to chameleons what they eat in the wild (flying insects, bees, wasps, small beetles), instead we feed them, what they never eat in the nature (crickets, roaches, locusts, larvae of beetles, butterflies and moths). Pollen can help to close a bit of the gap. Not providing pollen can lead to avitaminoses, weekend immune system, diseases and death. Providing bee pollen should be considered a part of best practice in chameleon husbandry. It is of same importance as providing: UV Supplements and vitamins Calcium.
Additional details: Vitamins:�Provitamin A (carotenoids),�Vitamin B1 (thiamine),�Vitamin B2 (riboflavin), �Vitamin B3 (niacin, nicotinamide), �Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid),�Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine), Vitamin B9 (folic acid),�Vitamin B12 (cyanocobalamin),�Vitamin C (ascorbic acid),�Vitamin D (D3, cholecalciferol), Vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol succinate),�Vitamin H (biotin),�Vitamin K, Choline, Inositol,�Rutin.� Minerals: B (boron), Ca (calcium), Cl (chlorine), Cu (copper), Fe (iron), I (iodine), K (potassium), Ma (manganese), Mg (magnesium), Mo (molybdenum), Na (sodium), P (phosphorus), S (sulphur), Se (selenium), Si (silica), Sn (zinc), Fatty Acids: Caproic (C-6) - Caprylic (C-8), Capric (C-10) - Lauric (C-12), Myristic (C-14) - Palmitic (C-16), Palmitic (C-15), Uncowa - Stearic (C-18), Oleic (C-18), Linoleic (C-18), Arachidic (C-20) - Stearic (C-22), Linolenic (C-18), Eicosanoic (C-20), Brucic (C-22). Carbohydrates:�Cellulose Sporonine, Gums, Pentosans,�Starch,�Sugars (30-40%):� Sucrose,� Fructose,� Glucose.� Enzymes & Co-enzymes:�Amylase, Cataiase, Cozymase. Cytochrome systems, Diaphorase, Disstase, Lactic dehydrogenase, Phosphatase, Pectase, Saccharase, Succinic dehydrogenase.Ti (titanium).
Amino acids: Alanine, Arginine, Aspartic acid, Butyric acid, Cystine, Glutamic acid, Glycine, Histidine, Hydroxyproline, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Thresonine, Tryptophan, Tyrosine, Valine. Minerals: Alpha-Amino-Butyric Acid, Auxins, Brassins, Crocetin, Diglycerides, Gibberellins, Guanine, Hexodecanol, Hypoxalthine, Kinins, Lycopene, Monoglycerides, Nucleosides, Peutosaus, Triglycerides, Vernine, Xanthine, Zeaxanthin
Pigments:�Alpha & Beta Carotene, Xarmmepayll. Miscellaneous: Amines, Flavonoids, Glucoside of Isorhanstin, Glycosides of Quercetir, Growth Factors, Growth Isorhanetin, Guanine, Hypoxant
By Petr Necas
(with contribution by Elise Stein)View attachment 332683
That was a great read thank you 😊
 
Here's a informative article co written up by my mentor some years ago that I thought some of you might find it interesting...


The Mystery of Bee Pollen Unleashed

BEE POLLEN What is pollen? The grains of pollen are microscopic gameotophytes (male reproductive units) that form in the anthers of flowering plants.
What is bee pollen? Pollen that is collected by honey bees and is referred to as bee pollen. It is the simplest and actually only realistic available source of pollen, as it is collected by bees and from them it is by special pollen traps collected, packed and sold by beekeepers.
Why consider pollen as food supplement for chameleons? It is an integral daily part of the diet of wild chameleons. Chameleons in general prefer feeding on flying insects, such as bees, wasps, flies and small beetles. All these feeders are heavily dusted with pollen. The bees even carry two granules of pollen on their legs. For chameleons it is therefore very natural to be permanently supplied with pollen.
What is the composition of pollen? Bee Pollen contains (at least): 22 amino acids 18 vitamins 25 minerals 59 trace elements 11 enzymes and co-enzymes 14 fatty acids 11 carbohydrates natural antibiotics potent antioxidants sugars (up to 40%) proteins (up to 40%)
What are the benefits of pollen? It provides nutrition (amino acids, proteins) It provides vitamins It provides important elements It provides important minerals it provides important amino acids Therefore: It boosts immunity it builds resistance to diseases It provides a natural antibiotic shield against diseases
Where can you get it? Local beekeepers Walmart Pharmacy Amazon In what form is it available? Granules, collected by bees on their feet using special comb-like structures to collect and form granules, Powder, usually filled in capsules.
How to store it? Bee pollen is dried pollen, that is best to be stored in hermetically closed jars in dark at room temperature, otherwise it hydrates, oxides, is degraded by fungi and bacteria.
How can we provide it to chameleons? There are basically four options: 1. gutload your feeders 2. make the feeders a little moist and dust them with pollen (so that it does not fall off) 3. dissolve the pollen in water and let them drink it 4. make the chameleon open mouth and put directly in it and add some water to swallow.
How often should it be given? Every meal! In the wild, chameleons ingest pollen with almost every bite. So, in captivity it is logical to follow the same frequency. How important is pollen to chameleons? As it is an integral part of the natural diet of bees, it is for chameleons of crucial importance.
We in general do not feed to chameleons what they eat in the wild (flying insects, bees, wasps, small beetles), instead we feed them, what they never eat in the nature (crickets, roaches, locusts, larvae of beetles, butterflies and moths). Pollen can help to close a bit of the gap. Not providing pollen can lead to avitaminoses, weekend immune system, diseases and death. Providing bee pollen should be considered a part of best practice in chameleon husbandry. It is of same importance as providing: UV Supplements and vitamins Calcium.
Additional details: Vitamins:�Provitamin A (carotenoids),�Vitamin B1 (thiamine),�Vitamin B2 (riboflavin), �Vitamin B3 (niacin, nicotinamide), �Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid),�Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine), Vitamin B9 (folic acid),�Vitamin B12 (cyanocobalamin),�Vitamin C (ascorbic acid),�Vitamin D (D3, cholecalciferol), Vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol succinate),�Vitamin H (biotin),�Vitamin K, Choline, Inositol,�Rutin.� Minerals: B (boron), Ca (calcium), Cl (chlorine), Cu (copper), Fe (iron), I (iodine), K (potassium), Ma (manganese), Mg (magnesium), Mo (molybdenum), Na (sodium), P (phosphorus), S (sulphur), Se (selenium), Si (silica), Sn (zinc), Fatty Acids: Caproic (C-6) - Caprylic (C-8), Capric (C-10) - Lauric (C-12), Myristic (C-14) - Palmitic (C-16), Palmitic (C-15), Uncowa - Stearic (C-18), Oleic (C-18), Linoleic (C-18), Arachidic (C-20) - Stearic (C-22), Linolenic (C-18), Eicosanoic (C-20), Brucic (C-22). Carbohydrates:�Cellulose Sporonine, Gums, Pentosans,�Starch,�Sugars (30-40%):� Sucrose,� Fructose,� Glucose.� Enzymes & Co-enzymes:�Amylase, Cataiase, Cozymase. Cytochrome systems, Diaphorase, Disstase, Lactic dehydrogenase, Phosphatase, Pectase, Saccharase, Succinic dehydrogenase.Ti (titanium).
Amino acids: Alanine, Arginine, Aspartic acid, Butyric acid, Cystine, Glutamic acid, Glycine, Histidine, Hydroxyproline, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Thresonine, Tryptophan, Tyrosine, Valine. Minerals: Alpha-Amino-Butyric Acid, Auxins, Brassins, Crocetin, Diglycerides, Gibberellins, Guanine, Hexodecanol, Hypoxalthine, Kinins, Lycopene, Monoglycerides, Nucleosides, Peutosaus, Triglycerides, Vernine, Xanthine, Zeaxanthin
Pigments:�Alpha & Beta Carotene, Xarmmepayll. Miscellaneous: Amines, Flavonoids, Glucoside of Isorhanstin, Glycosides of Quercetir, Growth Factors, Growth Isorhanetin, Guanine, Hypoxant
By Petr Necas
(with contribution by Elise Stein)View attachment 332683
Very interesting facts, thanks for sharing as I like to use bee pollen to gutload my feeders.
 
Devil's advocate position: To the best of my knowledge there are no controlled studies that have actually looked at improved health or lifespan of chameleons or other reptiles fed bee pollen when compared to those that have not been (if there is anything on that other than natural history studies showing a large number of hymenoptera prey please send them my way).

My confusion over the rationale for using bee pollen is that it's like: "well, in the wild chameleons ingest it." But in the wild the more commonly kept species (veileds and panthers) live for about 30% or less of their captive lifespan, and most sources I have seen (Gary Ferguson, IUCN, and Necas himself) suggest 1-2 years. So even if their shortened wild lifespan isn't directly related to nutrition, it's not like there's selection pressure to find food items that promote long term health. Rather, they're eating what they can to grow as quickly as possible to reproduce as quickly as possible before they die from predation/weather change/poor nutrition, etc. Fast growth and early demise are not the goals of most pet owners.

And bee pollen is like 23% protein - that's on par or more than dog food. Feeding that to roaches is likely going to increase the uric acid content of the bugs over produce or a commercial gutload like repashy that is about 15% (potentially increasing risk of gout and/or chronic kidney disease). Also, the pollen content is presumably going to vary wildly by what region it was collected in, so what we buy in the US isn't going to be the same as Africa or the Middle East, so it's not even necessarily natural.
 
Absolutely, I only use pollen as part of the gut loading process of crickets and dubia roaches. I sprinkle it on the fruits and veggies on the feeders feeding day.
i’ll give a little for gut loading ,mostly to Super worms and crickets but the majority of the time I just put on feeders 2 to 3 times a week as stated in your article The majority of prey items do have the pollen on them . I’ve read this over and over again through the years . As far as gut loading roaches uric acid is always givin me a concern . so I keep the roaches on basic veggies . But all my hoppers are usually pollinated .
 
To add to my comment I don’t feed my insects just be pollen, they get fruit and veggies but I read waxworms especially thrive on bee pollen
 
And I should clarify I'm not coming out against using bee pollen, my position is just that there's really no evidence that it is needed or even beneficial. Now that doesn't mean it's not beneficial - just that it hasn't been studied - but even if it is beneficial the appropriate dose to use is unclear.

I don't think using it to gutload roaches is a good idea though, I'll stand by that criticism.
 
Devil's advocate position: To the best of my knowledge there are no controlled studies that have actually looked at improved health or lifespan of chameleons or other reptiles fed bee pollen when compared to those that have not been (if there is anything on that other than natural history studies showing a large number of hymenoptera prey please send them my way).

My confusion over the rationale for using bee pollen is that it's like: "well, in the wild chameleons ingest it." But in the wild the more commonly kept species (veileds and panthers) live for about 30% or less of their captive lifespan, and most sources I have seen (Gary Ferguson, IUCN, and Necas himself) suggest 1-2 years. So even if their shortened wild lifespan isn't directly related to nutrition, it's not like there's selection pressure to find food items that promote long term health. Rather, they're eating what they can to grow as quickly as possible to reproduce as quickly as possible before they die from predation/weather change/poor nutrition, etc. Fast growth and early demise are not the goals of most pet owners.

And bee pollen is like 23% protein - that's on par or more than dog food. Feeding that to roaches is likely going to increase the uric acid content of the bugs over produce or a commercial gutload like repashy that is about 15% (potentially increasing risk of gout and/or chronic kidney disease). Also, the pollen content is presumably going to vary wildly by what region it was collected in, so what we buy in the US isn't going to be the same as Africa or the Middle East, so it's not even necessarily natural.
Petr Necas was the author of that article.
 
Petr Necas was the author of that article.
As a follower he spent extensive time in a feild , also researching many different aspects from temperature to nutrition , I think his advice and understanding is very sound . again I appreciate the post it was a great read and I have implemented some of these in my feeding schedule
 
And I should clarify I'm not coming out against using bee pollen, my position is just that there's really no evidence that it is needed or even beneficial. Now that doesn't mean it's not beneficial - just that it hasn't been studied - but even if it is beneficial the appropriate dose to use is unclear.

I don't think using it to gutload roaches is a good idea though, I'll stand by that criticism.
It is the Veterinarian in you to look at all angles... :)

I personally had a bad experience with bee pollen. I was using arcadia supplements which have it in it but was told from someone who will remain un named out of respect that I could put straight bee pollen on the feeders as well. Beman developed edema and started showing symptoms of gout with swelling in his limbs (mostly forearms). I removed all bee pollen with the exception of one of my arcadia insect fuel gutloads I use. I switched him to repashy supplements nod and LoD. It took about 6 weeks for the edema and swelling in his limbs to reduce.

So I agree completely with you about dose to use is unclear. Even with humans too much of a good thing can be bad for our bodies. Someone told me to stop and think about how much pollen they actually get in the wild. The small fraction that they would get on feeders or with veileds on a plant they may ingest. This hit hard as a realization that I was overdoing it.
 
I’ve always added just a touch to my calcium supplement in the winter time, never added it to the full multi though. Probably half a capsule(self collected from our hives) to a full container of calcium so not much but a bit. In the summertime my chameleons end up eating plenty of bees that get through the netting and they seem to specifically seek them out. Haven’t seen any I’ll effects.
 
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