Hi, I’m looking into getting a panther chameleon in the future.. I have not long got a created gecko in a bio active enclosure nd now want to try my hand at chameleons. However, I am not starting until I have a good idea on everything chameleon related.
I plan to have a male panther in a minimum of 120x60x120. I’m looking at a hybrid set up so not entirely mesh but mostly as I’d like to do a diy background like I have for my gecko. I also want to do bioactive.
My problem is, there’s so much conflicting information online about everything. I’ve had a look through chameleon academy online also and found that useful but I’ve gone down such a rabbit hole now I can’t see the light no more .. please anyone with experience with what I’m thinking of doing able to help with adv of do’s/donts.
I must note im in the uk as I appreciate care needs differ around the world etc any help appreciated
Hi and welcome! Chameleon Academy is a fantastic place for current and correct husbandry and info. Are you finding it a bit overwhelming and just want it simplified? Do you have specific questions or concerns or just want a summary or quick run down of husbandry requirements? Do you need help with setting up bioactively for a chameleon? If you can narrow down or clarify where/what you need some guidance, we are a helpful community here and have a range of experiences.
Hi and welcome! Chameleon Academy is a fantastic place for current and correct husbandry and info. Are you finding it a bit overwhelming and just want it simplified? Do you have specific questions or concerns or just want a summary or quick run down of husbandry requirements? Do you need help with setting up bioactively for a chameleon? If you can narrow down or clarify where/what you need some guidance, we are a helpful community here and have a range of experiences.
Just a bit overwhelmed with the amount of information now I don’t even know where to start to research and figure what I need to do.
I think husbandry is my main worry with the set up inside the tank and the lights ? I got my geckos lights on the luminize so they dim on and off at dawn/dusk I wondered if I could do that for chameleon to regarding uvb and the plant light ? Obv won’t be able to with the heat lamp I guess?
Also some conflicting info about whah heat bulb I use ? Has to have a light ? Can’t be a deep heat projector?
I seen a betta terra enclosure yesturday which was 120x60x120 which I thought looked okay? Altho I see lots of conflicting info online about the type of tank used? I don’t think my house gets too humid thankfully so I think would be ok controlling it in a pvc or glass enclosure?
With bioactive is they safe for chameleons I’ve seen lots advice against it due to ingestion.. but wouldn’t have thought a chameleon would be on the ground? And I’d look to tong feed ?
Ok, well we can certainly help you out.
First, what kind of chameleon are you thinking about getting? Each has their own needs in certain areas. Humidity is one of those areas. I would suggest buying a hygrometer to check what your humidity is in your home and space where you would be putting your cham. This will help guide you as to what type of enclosure would work best for you. In many instances, all screen or hybrid usually work best, but I’m aware that in the UK, more enclosed glass or pvc is common. If you are getting a veiled/Yemen then you want there to be more air flow and lower humidity of ideally 30-50%. Panthers like it a bit more humid at 50-70%. It’s very easy to increase humidity, but not as easy to lower it. Whichever enclosure you are looking at, there needs to be good ventilation and air flow. With the glass enclosures, you need some vent holes at or near the bottom which will draw in air and the an open screened top for the air to flow out from. This is the chimney effect. Size needs to be at least 4’/120 cm tall and 2’/60 cm deep and wide. If you can go bigger, do it.
For lighting, I don’t see why you can’t use the Arcadia LumenIze for both your T5 UVB and a Jungle Dawn. For UVB, you do want to use T5 and Arcadia 6% or ReptiSun 5.0. Avoid any other brand UVB as they just aren’t reliable in their output. You want a distance of 8-9” (20-22 cm) between your highest branch or basking area and your uvb light. Then you figure out what strength basking bulb works best. For all baby chameleons under about 3 months old, and adult ladies, we want to keep them a bit cooler with basking temp no higher than 80F (27c). Adult males can have higher temps up to around 85F (29-30 c). It’s important to know, if getting a baby or younger chameleon, they enjoy walking upside down along the screen top which places them at risk for getting burned. Until they are too big to do this, it’s best to raise the lights around 3” (7 cm). I would also suggest avoiding halogen spot lights as they are more concentrated heat. Yes, it’s best to use a light bulb for basking rather than deep heat projector. No colored lights. They can harm sensitive googly eyes.
Now you want to fill in your enclosure with lots of safe live plants which have been cleaned of any potential chemicals. I use Dawn dish soap in a big bucket to wash the leaves (sometimes just dunk the plant upside down and agitate) and then rinse very well with clean water and then rinse again and one more time. I take my plants down to the bare root to avoid pests and then repot. Pothos is one of the best plants for all species. Yes, bioactive is great. I have all of mine bioactive and they have been doing very well. They all enjoy hunting their isopods at times, which I see as natural enrichment for them. I make sure to have a thick layer of leaf litter and some good sized cork pieces for the isopods to hide under and eat. Just make sure to have a very good drainage layer and system in case of excess water. I use fabric root pouches and only when I had a hole in the misting tubing did I have a drainage problem.
I like to use natural branches of varied diameters which help exercise little mitten feet. Again, wash with soapy water and rinse well before using. No need to sterilize or bake branches. Most of us prefer the Fluker’s type foam fake vines, like these. https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Bran...76785014&sprefix=fluker's+vine,aps,179&sr=8-4 Some, like the black Exo Terra vine shed tiny particles which can and usually do end up in little googly eyes.
To attach your branches and even plants, I like using garden trellis or lattice. I cut to fit (sanding any sharp edges dull) and attach to the frame with thin wire. I will also add extra screws to the frame to attach some wires to for extra support. It’s easy, inexpensive and works well.
Putting a pic below of one of my enclosures when it was all newly set up.
Now you have a beautiful and appropriate enclosure. Ta da!
Supplements are next and very important to get right. There’s several different ways and many many different products out there. What many of us use and I always suggest is a phosphorus-free calcium without D3, which you’ll lightly dust your feeders in at every feeding. Then for one feeding every other week (some do twice a month - to-may-toe/to-mah- toe) you’ll use Repashy Calcium Plus LoD or ReptiVite with D3. These two are combination multivitamins and D3 and are preferred because of the type of vitamin A that they contain.
Feeders - see the attachments below. Keep your buggies well fed a healthy diet of fresh greens and veg, with a little fruit. Avoid the colored cubes and jelly pots - those have poor nutrition. For lazy days and as a supplement I use Repashy Bug Burger. Feeding amounts will vary depending on the age and gender of your chameleon.
Ok, have I overwhelmed you yet? This is it in a nutshell. I probably could have been more succinct, but that’s not how I do. Undoubtably you may have more questions, but hopefully all of my prattling on will help you figure out what specifically they are.