So this is part of the issue.... you have to use supplements to balance out the phosphorus to calcium level in the feeders. So you want to get a calcium without D3 to use at all feedings and then a multivitamin to use 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. You could purchase Reptivite with D3 or Repashy Calcium Plus LoD version for this. Both of these have the multivitamins needed.
I purchased him from pet smart at 3.5 months, he was healthy and an avid eater but has definitely slowed his appetite down. Maybe his crickets are too big, but I’m definitely missing the nutrition side. I will go to pet smart right now and get everything for his supplants. I’ve been tong feeding, should I get him a cup, he seems to like to hunt as well.
Hi and welcome have you had a fecal done( poop test for parasites) ?
Not a test but from what I’ve read it looks normal and hydrated but I never see him drink
Okay I will do that asap. 70 watt or should I do something dimmable so I can adjust temperature? I turn lights on 7am and off at sunset about 8. Everything goes off and the room is empty and peaceful
Hi that is not what I mean, I am not talking about your chameleon drinking or being hydrated , I'm talking about parasites, ie puppies/ dogs having worms , reptiles just the same can and do carry parasites which if not tested for and left untreated can be fatal ( sorry to be blunt) you did to get a vet to do a fecal test ASAP
No one bulb wattage suits all and different bulbs have different performance, In my opinion a temperatures of 27c (like 78/ 80 f max) also as babies screen climb there enclosures best to have in raised off the mesh , if you have a dimmable thermostat then good , what type ?
So you want to reduce your insect sizes. I can tell based on those pics of him eating they are far too big. He will not go for them if they are too large. And baby needs to be eating to sustain growth rate. I would reduce down to nothing larger than 1/2 long. for Superworms only buy the small size. The larger ones will bite and then you run the risk of mouth rot.
Hi ok so yes it can be overwhelming, the way I deal with stuff is to write things down, and put things in categories and look at each thing individually, and prioritise , and tick the most important one at a time , but not forgetting that with a young chameleon they are all important, but you have come to the best place for advice and support
Alright I switched out the basking light this morning, got his vitamins and supplements one without the three and one with, I made him a feeder cup, lightly dusted small crickets he is watching them but he doesn’t seem interested in eating.So you want to reduce your insect sizes. I can tell based on those pics of him eating they are far too big. He will not go for them if they are too large. And baby needs to be eating to sustain growth rate. I would reduce down to nothing larger than 1/2 long. for Superworms only buy the small size. The larger ones will bite and then you run the risk of mouth rot.
But you have to get the supplements and use them as I had stated above. They will be used to very lightly dust the feeders just prior to giving them to the cham. No powdered donuts effect.
I agree with the feedback on the ceramic heater as well.
The cup is red which may be part of the issue. They tend to not like bright colors like that. They signify a threat to them.
that went through my mind. It was my panic decision this morning but I have since replaced it.
Just an update for anyone who is curious. OJ is back to his normal self it seems. He ate 12 baby crickets today covered in non d3 calcium supp, his basking light is new, better leaf coverage, I made cricket run for him, he is climbing all around and being very lively, even crawled out of his cage onto my hand which he’s been reluctant to lately.
